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shropshire bouldering guide (Read 37014 times)

grimer

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shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 10:23:46 am
Stuart Cathcart (trivia question: Stuart is most famous for sticking his finger into what?) has sent me a new bouldering guide to the Shropshire area that he has just produced. It covers Nescliffe, Pim Hill and Grinshill. Can't speak for the quality of the climbing, although Nick Dixon spoke very highly of Nescliffe, but the guide is a very nice celebration of esoteria, very nicely produced.

Like all best K-Tel compilations, this book is not available in the shrops, unless it's Stuart's own shrop at www.highsports.co.uk .

Might be worth checking out if you're anywhere in the area.

Houdini

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#1 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 10:29:51 am
Shropshires' L'Angle Parfait was discovered and climbed last Autumn. 


Stuart is most famous for sticking his finger into what

Thora Hird?

grimer

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#2 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 10:59:20 am
No, Houdini, that would be a 'who', but you're very close.

andy popp

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#3 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 11:01:56 am
The Cad bolt? Shropshire's L'Angle Parfait - is this an arete at Nesscliffe (where there is some brilliant bouldering)?

Houdini

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#4 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 11:12:37 am
Shropshires' L'Angle Parfait is hidden in an ultra obscure cutting.  It's quality sandstone.  It was found by a wandering Jez Stephenson on timeout from being a fireman on the Shrops service.

I've seen a photo: it's tall and very clean cut.  Panton may have an exact location by now.


The bouldering @ Nesscliffe is touch & go.  With the exception of The Hourglass Pinch problem on the hidden Rhodie upper tier it's not that great.  There's a new traverse there too which someone may be interested in, if you like sequential short crabwise nastiness inches of the deck (V9?)  The bouldering on the lower levels are interesting old skool meanderings at the bottom of routes.



grimer

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#5 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 11:21:21 am
Ah, all that may be true, but if you're a resident of the village of Cliive, say, or down in Bomere Heath visiting your granny, or in Shawbury buying a second hand remote hard drive, then they just might come in to their own.

Houdini

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#6 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 11:26:23 am
So true.

I had a grand session there last year after escaping from a Wolverhampton building site.  It felt like I was at Font'.  But anywhere would after a month in Bently Bridge...

The view from the Rhodie craglet is so fine.

andy popp

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#7 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 11:48:55 am
C'mon Grimer, pay attention. I think I earned trivia points there. I use Nesscliffe in exactly the way you suggest, stopping on the way to and from the parents in Hereford. The Rhodie crag is v. fine - the 'hourglass', new problem to the right, wall on r. margin and traverse all v. good. Nick has linked the traverse in to hourglass - I have footage, I'll see if he'll let me post it. Who climbed this L'Angle thing and is the cutting at Nesscliffe?

Houdini

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#8 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 11:56:58 am
Who climbed this L'Angle thing and is the cutting at Nesscliffe?

Jez Stephenson

A Cwm-Y-Glo based pie specialist/firestarter.


It's good (I've heard that confirmed from other equally secretive quarters).  But you'll have to wait for directions (that will take a phone call) - I'm lead to believe it's not at Nesscliffe.



The new V9 is Rigpa:



andy popp

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#9 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 12:07:28 pm
Nice photo. Bit hard to tell but that looks left of the hourglass? Nick did one to the right. I asked all the questions about the arete as Nick was telling me about a new wall at Nesscliffe with a hard arete that had been 'claimed' by someone - doesn't sound like these are the same things at all.

Houdini

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#10 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 12:13:30 pm
Time will tell.  I'll make a call later tonite.

Pantontino

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#11 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 01:08:18 pm
Katz repeated the arete (approx 7a+ apparently) and mentioned that there is still a major line to the left that hasn't been done yet.

fatneck

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#12 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 10, 2006, 07:49:56 pm
Quote from: Houdini
The Hourglass Pinch

The lovely hold this problem derives it's description (name?) from was recently described to me as The Labial Pinch.

Back to the topic in hand (although I suppose it's all related really), I am really psyched to get a copy of this guide.
Nice one Stuart.

Houdini

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#13 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
August 14, 2006, 08:21:52 am
Mr. Popp, I've PM'd thee with details of Easter Edge.

Pantontino

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#14 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 03, 2007, 10:44:21 pm
Went to Nesscliffe today for the first time. It was hot in the sun, but we had great day out. All the problems on the Northumberland Wonderland wall (the 'Rhodie craglet') are ace (except for some dodgy eliminate V6 on the right), and Subtilitas is stunning (and hard, i.e. no-one topped out, although Ding Dong got close). The 8a wall looked excellent; perfect rock and a good flat landing.

The place could probably do with some consensus grade adjustments; we didn't agree with the grades for most of the things we did. Not that this really matters, as the climbing is great.

Here's a pic I took of Nick on RIGPA:



The routes look stunning. I think I'll be taking a rope next time.

andy popp

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#15 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 08:11:09 am
Dear me, I can see Nick's really let himself go to seed hasn't he. What a fat bastard.

Johnny Brown

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#16 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 09:22:54 am
Good to see that little spot is still a suntrap. For those of you who haven't bought the new nesscliffe (routes) guide, the DVD is ace and has some good bouldering footage.
Back when I was a local around these parts we reckoned Grinshill was a much better bouldering venue than Nesscliffe. We climbed mainly on the natural bits but there were a lot of small quarries  that we never got past looking at. I'd wager this L'angle Parfait is in one of these.

Houdini

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#17 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 10:24:57 am
You wager correctly.  It's name (in the guide at least) is Terminator.  Though Jez Stephenson is pretty sure he got there first with Easter Edge.  There's a very worthy line next to it still to do.

Nick's really let himself go to seed hasn't he?

Indeed! And I see the tonsure is making a comeback. 
« Last Edit: February 05, 2007, 10:30:35 am by Houdini, Reason: I forget. »

Johnny Brown

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#18 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 10:28:53 am
I'd like to buy one of these guides but the highsports site asks for a password. Any ideas?

Houdini

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#19 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 10:32:39 am
Buy from V12 online.  Maybe.  They do postal orders.  The guide ain't so flash, and oddly, all the pages are laminated.

Bonjoy

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#20 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 10:33:47 am
How does this ersatz L'angle Parfait compare with the near legendary Urban Culture Dispatj? I'm looking for scales of one to ten.

Houdini

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#21 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 10:37:34 am
No idea, only seen photo's.  UCD?  No idea what you mean.  Sorry.

Bonjoy

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#22 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 10:49:17 am
Just realised that no man alive has knowingly beheld both features, soz.

Pantontino

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#23 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 10:59:43 am
UCD looks and sounds like a more accurate replica of L'Angle Parfait. Easter Edge (as it was described to me) uses some small dinks on the wall, and as such is not strictly a pure arete problem, although visually it is a high sharp arete.

I know V12 have got stock of both the Shropshire Bouldering guide and Nick's Nesscliffe guide.

Pantontino

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#24 Re: shropshire bouldering guide
February 05, 2007, 11:02:50 am
Just realised that no man alive has knowingly beheld both features, soz.

Not necessarily, perhaps Jez Stephenson or Mark Katz has been for a wander in that UCD quarry? It's a possibility, a slim one I'll grant you.

 

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