The Limpet (Read 14671 times)

Monolith · July 04, 2006, 10:03:36 pm

Anyone got any clues, I'm struggling with The Limpet at Angel Bay and cannot seem to get any further than half height. General info appreciated cheers.
Also, is the pocketed wall on the main wall with Papa Big Punch and co, a V5 sitter? Totally forgot loads of the problems as havent been for ages until today and couldnt find the north wales bouldering guide.

ned · July 04, 2006, 10:56:25 pm

A long time since I was on this, but I think after getting the pinch with right hand, build feet up and reach up and left quite a long way to a odd mono dink/crimp (hard to see it - stand on the boulder next door to look for it). Then you can sort out feet and go up with the right to one of the obvious pinch features higher up. Then its easy to the top. Thats all I can really remember - sorry.

BenF · July 05, 2006, 08:29:39 am

Yeah, take the pinch thing with the RH, step up and place the LH on a slanted, edge in the obvious position up and left. Get your feet sorted (I have to use a certain little pocket for the RF, won't work without it) and press up a loooong way to the gorgeous stuck-on edge. If you get that hold, you'll do the finish. Just take care 'cos it's high and the block behind looms...

Doylo · July 05, 2006, 11:34:53 am

yeah you'll be sound when you get the stuck on edge, just keep your head for the top, its not hard. This problem seems a lot higher these days than when i first did it.

BenF · July 05, 2006, 11:41:10 am

Quote from: Doylo on July 05, 2006, 11:34:53 am

This problem seems a lot higher these days than when i first did it.

It is. Due to global warming, the boulders are expanding.

Pantontino · July 05, 2006, 02:15:06 pm

Or maybe Doylo is shrivelling up in this crippling heat?

(by the way, I stack 2 fingers in the elusive high pocky thing, then get the stuck on thing with my right)

BenF · July 05, 2006, 03:23:20 pm

Quote from: Pantontino on July 05, 2006, 02:15:06 pm

(by the way, I stack 2 fingers in the elusive high pocky thing, then get the stuck on thing with my right)

That must be so elusive... I can't even think what you mean and I must have done this problem at least twenty times. Or my memory is going in this heat.

Pantontino · July 05, 2006, 05:31:41 pm

I'll see if I can find a picture - I've got one of CJD doing it back in 96/97.

Doylo · July 05, 2006, 07:16:47 pm

the high pocky thing is the official Llanberis beta, didn't there used to be a vid of CJD doing this on the net somewhere?

ned · July 05, 2006, 08:14:24 pm

Pantontino · July 05, 2006, 08:57:57 pm

Oh aye, that'll be the one. (I completely forgot that it was in the gallery on the NWB site.

)

His left hand is just about to grasp the tiny pocky thing.

BenF · July 05, 2006, 09:03:36 pm

Yeah, I know the photo well. Never understood why it's done like that though. My method feels about V4 (obviously I'm lying to make out that I'm an utter wad), unless I forget about my essential foot beta and then it feels like V7. Awesome problem. Amongst my favourites at da Bay.

Monolith · July 05, 2006, 10:24:23 pm

cheers guys. Have seen some people utilising the block at the start of the problem for feet, is this in keeping with the problem, or is one supposed to lash ones feet onto the barren left side? When I had the left sloped ledge/crimp on its edge, I remember looking up rightwards to the 'stuck on' hold and it was pretty far away I think. Is this small pocky hold an intermediate leading to the 'stuck on' hold, and is it hard to spot? Will get a better attempt when it's not so damn hot.

BenF · July 06, 2006, 07:55:52 am

Quote from: millso17 on July 05, 2006, 10:24:23 pm

cheers guys. Have seen some people utilising the block at the start of the problem for feet, is this in keeping with the problem, or is one supposed to lash ones feet onto the barren left side? When I had the left sloped ledge/crimp on its edge, I remember looking up rightwards to the 'stuck on' hold and it was pretty far away I think. Is this small pocky hold an intermediate leading to the 'stuck on' hold, and is it hard to spot? Will get a better attempt when it's not so damn hot.

No block needed to start with the usual pebble level, pull on in between the two blocks shown in the photo above.

With "my" method, the stuck-on hold is a long way off until you get the RF correctly and then you can rock over off the LH (on the sloped ledge/crimp) and as if by magic you suddenly find yourself at the hold. Obviously the "Official Llanberis" method as mentioned above is wack because it's not the way I do it. I think I'll stick to the "Liverpool method" until further notice.

Bonjoy · July 06, 2006, 08:41:02 am

I think I did it your way too Ben. It certainly involved a crucial RF hold and a long stretch with right hand

BenF · July 06, 2006, 10:15:24 am

Quote from: Bonjoy on July 06, 2006, 08:41:02 am

I think I did it your way too Ben.

Then you did it the correct way.

Pantontino · July 06, 2006, 10:30:17 am

Bloody offcomers, coming to our crags and having the nerve to find easier sequences to our problems - outrageous! (where was that foothold again?)

Millso17: With the Llanberis sequence you actually hold the tiny pocky thing and take the stuck-on thing with your right (didn't I say that before?).

Anybody tried a sitter to this off the low block? Would probably only work if pebble levels were really low.

Also, what do folk think of Klemmow's problem, Limp Wrist (i.e. the one that takes the Limpet pinch with the left hand and pops up right and out onto the arete). I suppose you lot have worked out a 5c sequence for this too!

Houdini · July 06, 2006, 10:34:41 am

The answer to your question Bon' is egg.

Bonjoy · July 06, 2006, 11:42:28 am

$:-\$ This I already know, because at some point along the evolutionary continuum something 'not quite a chicken' layed an egg which hatched into something 'only just a chicken'. Never did understand what the confusion was.

Doylo · July 06, 2006, 12:20:34 pm

Quote from: Pantontino on July 06, 2006, 10:30:17 am

Also, what do folk think of Klemmow's problem, Limp Wrist (i.e. the one that takes the Limpet pinch with the left hand and pops up right and out onto the arete). I suppose you lot have worked out a 5c sequence for this too!

Not very good and 5b, never 5c!

BenF · July 06, 2006, 12:23:04 pm

Quote from: Pantontino on July 06, 2006, 10:30:17 am

Bloody offcomers, coming to our crags and having the nerve to find easier sequences to our problems - outrageous! (where was that foothold again?)

Firstly Mr Panton, it's practically local to me (not quite true), I'm there after work. And secondly, you ain't getting my beta mate, not unless you swap it for beta on Sonic Boom (my Angel Bay nemesis). But I'm certain I've got the sequence, just always failed to hold it together well enough so far.

Quote from: Pantontino on July 06, 2006, 10:30:17 am

Anybody tried a sitter to this off the low block? Would probably only work if pebble levels were really low.

Not me, but I will do now you've mentioned it. Have you done Bridey Arete from sitter BTW? It needs low pebbles, but it's really good. Actually come to think of it, I think we've talked about this before. But anyway, worth mentioning to the UKB massive. Again, I must reiterate that it needs low pebbles so that a smeary foot hold for the left appears.

Quote from: Pantontino on July 06, 2006, 10:30:17 am

Also, what do folk think of Klemmow's problem, Limp Wrist (i.e. the one that takes the Limpet pinch with the left hand and pops up right and out onto the arete). I suppose you lot have worked out a 5c sequence for this too!

Love it. And no, the only sequence I've got is about 6c and hard as hell. Needs a far from limp wrist to catch the hold out right and then some skill to stay on after the swing. Very good, but I rarely manage it as it trashes my skin.

BenF · July 06, 2006, 12:24:09 pm

Quote from: Doylo on July 06, 2006, 12:20:34 pm

Not very good and 5b, never 5c!

Sorry, did I say 6c? I meant 5a.

Doylo · July 06, 2006, 12:29:54 pm

Ben, i can't believe it, you love Angel Bay more than Si!

a dense loner · July 06, 2006, 12:41:25 pm

horses and water, horses and water. that's all i'm saying

BenF · July 06, 2006, 12:42:43 pm

Quote from: Doylo on July 06, 2006, 12:29:54 pm

Ben, i can't believe it, you love Angel Bay more than Si!

Oh yeah, I love it loooong time. But I have a mate who loves it even more than me. We often love it together.

In fairness I know a few people who for some reason don't like it. In fact they hate it in the way that Dense hates it (ie with a passion and fervour that should be reserved for hating Raven Tor or Rubicon).