[BenF]

horses and water, horses and water. that's all i'm saying

See, I knew he'd be along soon enough.

[Doylo]

horses and water, horses and water. that's all i'm saying

I wandered when you'd churp up, Monsieur Loner. To be fair its not my favourite North Wales venue either, worth going to do Sonic Boom and the Limpet though.

[BenF]

To be fair its not my favourite North Wales venue either, worth going to do Sonic Boom and the Limpet though.

Agreed, not the best venue in North Wales, but the best venue on the Ormes and home to more classic (or near classic) problems than most venues of it's size. 

I have five minutes spare, so here's a list of my favourites for people to diss and generally slag off:

That v4 slap on the left of the pocketed wall.
The pocketed wall traverse
Pocket wall v4
The LH V6 version of Pocket wall
Bridey Arete
Chaos Emerald Crack
The Holding Principle
The damp sitter on the RH end on that wall (where the problems fizzle out)
Musselbound
The arete left of MB
Letterbox
Ren Arete
Limp Wrist
Limpet
Spectrum
Sonic Boom (when I do it)


See, lots of quality for such a tiny place.   

[Monolith]

If you're into sea fishing, the weather is good, and you go with some mates, the Bay makes for a fantastic 8-13 style multiactivity day out. Musing over when the mackerel will be in 5m from some quality problems makes for a great day out!

Millso17: With the Llanberis sequence you actually hold the tiny pocky thing and take the stuck-on thing with your right (didn't I say that before?).

I'm not really piecing together all of these individual idiosyncracies of the problem so will just have to get back on it.

Re the sitter: Two days ago, pebble levels were relatively high around the base of the Limpet, funnily enough, we deliberated over whether anyone had contemplated this or not. Limp Wrist seems a quality line by the way. And Ben....there's nothing wrong with loving Angel Bay, this time of year, I'd take a multiactivity day out there over Pex Hill any day!
 

[Doylo]

there's nothing wrong with loving Angel Bay, this time of year,

apart from all the pissed townies throwing stones at you and being generally obnoxious, wankers!

[Houdini]

I've never ever been to Angel Bay, ever, and certainly ever never.



Something tells me I will not live to regret my choice!



I'm prouder of the fact I never went to Roadrunner though!

[Houdini]

  This I already know, because at some point along the evolutionary continuum something 'not quite a chicken' layed an egg which hatched into something 'only just a chicken'. Never did understand what the confusion was.

Indeed - a no-brainer.

Think reptiles!



Limpet!  Best get that in somewhere... Limpet!

[Pantontino]

Houdini, that's like living in Chamonix and not going skiing.

Next you'll be telling me that you don't like the Cave of Justice...

[Pantontino]

Ben, Surely the Jonesy Locker and Alabaster Roof have got to be in that list!

As for Sonic Boom beta, my crux sequence is just a close hand match on the main sloper. For pretty much all the problem I only have one foot in contact at any given time (just wave the other one around like a rudder), and no heelhook nonsense either, you just end up with a hideous swing. It's worth getting the finish completely dialled. I fell off here loads of times before I did it.

Yes I've done Bridey's from a sitter - very cool if I remember rightly. And yes I think we have discussed it on here, but what the hell, I'm having a brew break.

Any advances on 5a for Limp Wrist?

There's still at least one major line to go - anybody know what it is?

[Houdini]

Yes.  The fat line of pure Thai-white Heroin you'll need to offer me before you'll see me in the Toilet of Justice...

[Monolith]

apart from all the pissed townies throwing stones at you and being generally obnoxious, wankers!

Never witnessed these folk, but I'd give them a 'Liverpudlian Handshake' straight into the sea if they tried anything on!

Houdini, that's like living in Chamonix and not going skiing.

Quite true Pantontino. How on earth can one venue be so wildly liked by some on one hand, and not at all by others!? And I don't want any of this ''volume of problems'' nonsense either!

[BenF]

And Ben....there's nothing wrong with loving Angel Bay, this time of year, I'd take a multiactivity day out there over Pex Hill any day!

Word.  Much better stone throwing at the Bay than at the Hill!

[Doylo]

I'm prouder of the fact I never went to Roadrunner though!

Shame on you!

[Houdini]

Shame on poo schmoo!  Breathing carbon monoxide stink - noise - unnatural filth spot on the arse of my arse!  Gimme the mountains any day of the week!

And Ben....there's nothing wrong with loving Angel Bay, this time of year, I'd take a multiactivity day out there over Pex Hill any day!

Word.  Much better stone throwing at the Bay than at the Hill!

Hmm... true.  But if it's bottle throwing you're after, the Bay can't hold a candle to the Hill 

[BenF]

Hmm... true.  But if it's bottle throwing you're after, the Bay can't hold a candle to the Hill!

Funnily enough, it's not bottle throwing that I'm after.  Problem with the Bay is that unlike at Pex, if some tit chucks a stone at you from the top, it's hard work trying to catch them to remonstrate with them.  Running up that muddy slope just wastes energy that's best saved for climbing.

I was at the Bay last year and some idiot chucked a Coke can sized rock down.  Me and Owen were stood by Musselbound contemplating summat or other and this rock came whizzing down and fell between the two of us, smashing into pieces.  There is no doubt it would have more than killed (eh?) us had it made contact.  The idiots that threw it got a fair bit of abuse from us (in a nice way of course), but fair play to them, they came down and kinda apologised for the near death experience.  Before resuming their stone throwing at some other part of the Bay.  Quite a scary moment that.

[Houdini]

Scary isn't it, when rocks fall near you?  Remeber being at the bottom of the Keelhaul slab in Pembroke years ago.  There was a guy who was contantly asking if he could use the ab rope.  He wouldn't take no for an answer and kept popping his head over the edge to see if the leader was finished yet.  Then he knocked off a loaf-sized block that my friend & I needed to avoid very quickly indeed.  Dude fucked-off sharpish after that.  Shame, I would've loved to have broken his nose over that one.

[BenF]

Scary isn't it, when rocks fall near you?  Remeber being at the bottom of the Keelhaul slab in Pembroke years ago.  There was a guy who was contantly asking if he could use the ab rope.  He wouldn't take no for an answer and kept popping his head over the edge to see if the leader was finished yet.  Then he knocked off a loaf-sized block that my friend & I needed to avoid very quickly indeed.  Dude fucked-off sharpish after that.  Shame, I would've loved to have broken his nose over that one.

That would suck...  being hit by something knocked down by a fellow climber.  Although to be honest being hit by any rock would suck.

Years back during my first proper climbing trip to the Alps, me and my mate (both very naive and inexperienced) tried to approach some route on the Charmoz far too late in the day (ie it was light) and ended up cowering behind a large boulder in a couloir as rocks flew past at tremendous speeds (the closest I'll ever come to a combat experience I reckon).  A very scary experience that has stayed with me and has helped me amend the way I climb in the high mountains.  Rocks were coming down every few seconds, the smell of cordite was all around and I was certain that any moment a rock with my name carved into it was going to rocket down the snow slope towards us.  I'm now very careful when it comes to stonefall in the mountains. 

[Houdini]

How would you describe the smell of cordite?

[Pantontino]

I've had a few harrowing near misses with falling blocks at Pembroke too. Seen the recent rockfalls at St Govans!!! Just think next time you go there - it could you with a 20 tonne block of limestone pinned to your chest as you hurtle earthwards!

Anyway, back to the bay. The most infuriating experience I had there was one quiet peaceful day a few years back. As usual I was just pottering around, enjoying a nice little circuit when suddenly a posse of jet skiers came racing into the bay and rudely burst my bubble of serenity. They then spent the next 15 minutes doing donuts round and round, churning up the water and making a deafening noise. What an obnoxious bunch of twats. Roll on the day when it becomes legal to shoot these bastards with high powered rifles from council maintained shooting galleries on the headland.

[Houdini]

Word dude.


Militant vegetarians/vegans/hippies first.

Jet Skiers after. 

Followed by women who use a bottle of Chanel daily.

And poodles.  I fucking hate poodles!

Limpets are cool though, I'd leave limpets alone.



I'd like to volunteer my services immediately, should you become Grand High Chancellor of the Universe, and can make it so!

[webbo]

Anyway, back to the bay. The most infuriating experience I had there was one quiet peaceful day a few years back. As usual I was just pottering around, enjoying a nice little circuit when suddenly a posse of jet skiers came racing into the bay and rudely burst my bubble of serenity. They then spent the next 15 minutes doing donuts round and round, churning up the water and making a deafening noise. What an obnoxious bunch of twats. Roll on the day when it becomes legal to shoot these bastards with high powered rifles from council maintained shooting galleries on the headland.

now that sort of hunting i'm all for.

[Bonjoy]

 Have had a few near misses with rocks. Got hit by one at Goredale on Sunday infact. Was lowering Neil off Defcom 3, his rope must have brushed over something high up and I got hit on the shoulder by a high speed 3 inch lump. Made a loud noise but left no damage other than a tiny round cut  . I dare say it would have broken something if it had hit bone rather than muscle. Very nearly hit mi swede, so much so it left a graze on my cheek.

[a dense loner]

it could have knocked some sense into you

[Bonjoy]

You made me do it. You made me bring him out.

[BenF]

How would you describe the smell of cordite?

 
I dunno, I thought that as I typed but felt that I had to say "the smell of cordite" 'cos that's what everyone always says about the smell of smashing rocks.  I've no idea what cordite smells like to be honest, but the smell of smashing rocks is quite unique.  Kinda industrial smell; reminds me of my mis-spent youth hanging out in the slate quarries climbing, getting off my head and chucking rocks off cliffs.

Nice one for pulling me up on that bit of b*llocks wot I wrote.