[Johnny Brown]

Jesus. THAT is the famous Hank's wall?

T-crack is amazing in all its forms. Blind date is a bit unpleasant, but served its purpose as a step on the path to Blind fig, which is amazing.

Traverses are generally poor. Jerry's is especially poor.

There is a reason bouldering in the lakes/ snowdonia has only been developed recently: it's shit.

[BenF]

Traverses are generally poor. Jerry's is especially poor.

There is a reason bouldering in the lakes/ snowdonia has only been developed recently: it's shit.

Hmmm...? So the only worthwhile problems are up-problems on grit?  A tad limiting methinks, but a good controversial addition to the thread.

[r-man]

i always thought one of the major positives of bouldering was the  absurdity of going into damp pits and other holes in the ground to do your climbing.
as damp pits go gw/ed is quite a nice one.in the days before mats it used to have some mighty fine boards or decking.

Absolutely. It's a fine thing to boulder with the sea behind you, or the hills, or the mountains, or whatever scene best conceals what you are getting away from, but I often find it just as enjoyable to eke out a few hours of entertainment doing what most people would think of as a very odd activity in what most people would think of as a very odd location.  

Though admittedly, I did move to sheffield for a reason.

[Jim]

Digitation... why is this classic? Horrible polished smears and it's eliminate too...

The best line in the quarry?
more proof you are mad/sad/gay
absolute classic. I recon even JB would enjoy this one  :shock:

[Doylo]

has anyone mentioned West Side Story yet? horrible climbing!

[Andy W]

How about la chacuterie at cuvier? I hate that one!

[Doylo]

I mean seriously people, how can Hampers Hang, Trackside, Blind Date and West Side possibly be sh*t problems??  :roll:

Yeah but the whole point of the thread is for people to name 'classic' problems that they hate, not just any old pile of choss like Hanks Wall  :wink:

[John Cooke]

K here's my contribution:

Peak Grit:
Beachball - pants
Trackside - sucks
Brads Arete - technical pooness
Blind Date - Truly overated. I hate this problem, partially because i still haven't ticked it (can't do the move from the pocket in any controlled form!)and also yes because it really isn't at all pleasant
Remergance - ghetto

Peak Limestone:
Out of my tree start - distinctly uncomfortable
Kudos Hardway - overated easyway much nicer


T-Cracks cool, great sense of satisfaction slapping and holding the last move.
Gorilla Warfare i think's pretty good
Strawberries is classic!
The three pocket thing is shit but kinda cool if you undercut the pockets rather than wildly slapping
Enjoyed Angel Deelite at Woodwell

"Traverses are generally poor. Jerry's is especially poor. "

Which Jerry's are you refferring to? Jerry's at Cratcliffe aint all that but Jerry's on Business is ultra classic and fecking awesome at that!

There's got to be loads more!

How about Yorkshire probs? Can't seem to think of any!

[Doylo]

you must be joking :!:  jerrys at cratcliffe is miles better than jerrys at stanage

[r-man]

Yeah but the whole point of the thread is for people to name 'classic' problems that they hate, not just any old pile of choss like Hanks Wall

My ears are burning.

http://www.staleywise.com/collection/piel/big/frustration

[Doylo]

Peak Limestone:
Out of my tree start - distinctly uncomfortable
Kudos Hardway - overated easyway much nicer

and i wouldn't describe these two as classic boulder problems neither

[webbo]

How about Yorkshire probs? Can't seem to think of any!

thats because once you cross the border its all peace and light.

karma.

[John Cooke]

cubanallstar wrote:

Peak Limestone:
Out of my tree start - distinctly uncomfortable
Kudos Hardway - overated easyway much nicer
 


and i wouldn't describe these two as classic boulder problems neither

Nah you're probably right, i just couldn't think of any limestone problems i didn't like!

[Bonjoy]

How about Yorkshire probs? Can't seem to think of any!

The Peak just happens to have more classics, hence more for people to moan about.

[John Cooke]

you must be joking :!:  jerrys at cratcliffe is miles better than jerrys at stanage

Why cos you don't have to use your feet?  

[Paul B]

maybe because its easier at cratcliffe for your feet not to touch the floor  :wink:

[dave]

Blind Date - Truly overated. I hate this problem, partially because i still haven't ticked it (can't do the move from the pocket in any controlled form!)and also yes because it really isn't at all pleasant

blind date is great. what is the move from the pocket (quel pocket?)? and like JB sez its a step on the ladder to doing fig.

Kudos Hardway - overated easyway much nicer

are you on crack? for a kickoff kudos easy way is barely easier, if not harder, and its well unpleasant compared to the "hard" way. i did the hard way, and the press, and bigger splash direct, and the traverse 2 years before i did the "easy" way. at least the hard way is on comfy holds not broken shite.

Which Jerry's are you refferring to? Jerry's at Cratcliffe aint all that but Jerry's on Business is ultra classic and fecking awesome at that!

jerry's at stanage is utter dogshite. jerry's at cratcliffe is a good line and good climbing. anyone doing this footless better have a decent excuse, like for example having lost their legs in some kind of road traffic accident.

[Andy F]

How about Yorkshire probs? Can't seem to think of any!

How's about The Keel? Not very nice moves to the most baltantly chipped hold this side of the slate quarries.

Or maybe it's because it never feels right when I know it should...

[saltbeef]

all the supposed classics at almscliff, chipped and polished. wicked. hey that hank's wall looks good...

[Control freak]

Not to be taken away - what's that all about? You think, hey, what an amazing line across an imposing boulder - then it turns out the meat of the problem is one daft fiddly move to get off the ground. And the ground is a key foothold. I don't hate it, and I did enjoy monkeying along the ramp, but I remember feeling a bit disappointed... It's only classic cos of where it is, not how it climbs...

The ground is a key foothold? Er... well maybe, in that you need to step on the ground in order to pull on.

[Fiend]

OMG! Sickle Crack! That's the one I should have been thinking of, awful, awful, awful problem, hideous rock, always grubbed up with chalk, simultaneously grinding and slippery, stupidly awkward. I've given it about 2 1/2 goes as as soon as I touch it I think I'd rather climb indoors or indeed not at all.


Personally I liked NTBTA, I think it's quite a different proposition old skool style as it doesn't taper off in interest after the start. Helps if you find the start piss, too....

[John Cooke]

blind date is great. what is the move from the pocket (quel pocket?)? and like JB sez its a step on the ladder to doing fig.

Right hand off crimp, left foot on and up to pocket/crimp with left hand then can't do the move up with my right hand to the pocket/crimp right of your left. Probably not trying hard enough...

Kudos Hardway - overated easyway much nicer

are you on crack? for a kickoff kudos easy way is barely easier, if not harder, and its well unpleasant compared to the "hard" way. i did the hard way, and the press, and bigger splash direct, and the traverse 2 years before i did the "easy" way. at least the hard way is on comfy holds not broken shite.

Kudos easy way is easier IMO, it feels a lot harder if you're feet aren't right. Maybe you gotta sort your footwork out homes  

At least the hard way is on comfy holds not broken shite

You mean the massive jug and the equally large press with your right hand?  :roll:

[Doylo]

well off topic but i think it should be stated that Kudos easy way is nails and 7b.

[dave]

blind date is great. what is the move from the pocket (quel pocket?)? and like JB sez its a step on the ladder to doing fig.

Right hand off crimp, left foot on and up to pocket/crimp with left hand then can't do the move up with my right hand to the pocket/crimp right of your left. Probably not trying hard enough...

To get the right hand up into matching the break the main problem for me was always that my body would be stuck on the lip, stopping me pulling round far enough, gaining massive grazes on me chest in the process. The key to this move for me is to use the large flat slopey pebble as an intermediate with the RH -= this small and insignificant looking move just enables you to get the body round enough to make a clean stab for the break - its a winner.

[Jim]

agreed with Dave. This is the way forward. Pull your body up and onto the rock and do a full chest smear(leave t-shirt on), then to the pebble, then to break/crimp/slot thing.
You should be strong enough to do that cubanallstar!