[sharkey]

Pantontino there is also some very good stuff at Rothley, the Arete's area being fine, have you had the pleasure of "Yorkshire 8a"  now this is a quality problem as good as yorkshire and peak grit.

[Pantontino]

Don't get me wrong Sharkey, there are some top quality problems at Rothley. It's just that there are also some truly awful things that probably shouldn't have been recorded in a guidebook.

[saltbeef]

West side is one of the best problems around. As for Jerry's and powerband being shit, get a grip. they're rites of passage embrace the grimness. you might get strong in the process! glad to see everryone has ignored your "provocative comment" mr down! i was gonna say sickle crack was shit, but again embrace the grimness.

[r-man]

Ah! one or two from Lancashire...

Digitation... why is this classic? Horrible polished smears and it's eliminate too...

Unjust... said to be classic. Far to eliminate to be so.

Don't be stupid. Go and climb it first.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=40921

It's not eliminate - just go straight up. The smears are fine, you just have to use them.

Unjust is a little eliminate, but fun moves. Again, go and cli...

[Control freak]

Ah! one or two from Lancashire...

Digitation... why is this classic? Horrible polished smears and it's eliminate too...

Unjust... said to be classic. Far to eliminate to be so.

Don't be stupid. Go and climb it first.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=40921

It's not eliminate - just go straight up. The smears are fine, you just have to use them.

Unjust is a little eliminate, but fun moves. Again, go and cli...

if its in lancashire then its going to be pretty shite - get over it. And before you get all touchy, I climbed in the lancs quarries for years  :wink:

[bigphil]

I think we're off topic slightly here.  Its classic problems you hate not classics that are shit.  I only hate the ones I posted above because I can't do them, and I don't really hate them, just dislike them a bit (at least until I do them).

To be honest I can't think of a single 'classic' thats shit, except said problem at Higgar.

[webbo]

i'm with phil i can't think of a shit problem i've done.i enjoy any problem i succeed on.

[r-man]

Easy... if everyone had done the problems they're slagging off, this topic would be nowhere near it's fourth page.

If everyone had agreed with everyone else, this topic would be nowhere near it's fourth page...

if its in lancashire then its going to be pretty shite - get over it. And before you get all touchy, I climbed in the lancs quarries for years

I don't agree - get over it.  :wink: Digitation would still be a classic if it was in the peak. And before you get all touchy, I've climbed in the peak for years. Far more than in the quarries, in fact.

Not to be taken away - what's that all about? You think, hey, what an amazing line across an imposing boulder - then it turns out the meat of the problem is one daft fiddly move to get off the ground. And the ground is a key foothold. I don't hate it, and I did enjoy monkeying along the ramp, but I remember feeling a bit disappointed... It's only classic cos of where it is, not how it climbs...

[Stubbs]

Not to be taken away ...-it turns out the meat of the problem is one daft fiddly move to get off the ground.

I've seen plenty of people jump off the move in the middle where you have to do a bit of a span to get to the next good hold: i think a lot of people think it is a one move problem, then they realise there's one more move as you're getting a bit high and they get worried.

I thought it was a bit rubbish the first time i did it, but have really enjoyed it every time since then.

[tommytwotone]

Not to be taken away ...-it turns out the meat of the problem is one daft fiddly move to get off the ground.

I've seen plenty of people jump off the move in the middle where you have to do a bit of a span to get to the next good hold: i think a lot of people think it is a one move problem, then they realise there's one more move as you're getting a bit high and they get worried.

I thought it was a bit rubbish the first time i did it, but have really enjoyed it every time since then.

got to agree with r-man on this one.

That first move has reduced me to a "Ben Moon in One Summer" style hissy fit on a number of occasions.

In fact, I've only ever stuck the move twice, the first time I was so surprised I fell off the next move, and the second time I did the problem.

Good point about the ground being a key foothold, it's defo getting harder / more annoying with erosion.

[BenF]

Anything at Parisellas Cave.

pussy



; )

   

No, aesthete.

[account_inactive]

My 2p's worth

Not to be taken away is probably the most disappointing problem in the Peak.  One move (bad) followed by an easy top out.  Just because it takes a good photo doesn't mean I like it.

Banana Finger direct. Overgraded and not very enjoyable.

Blind Date.  Polished bit of shit that I can't seem to do anymore.  After the break I don't find it too bad, despite the crampedness.  I just hate not being able to knock it out everytime I visit Remergence.

Any of the so called classics on Portledge, pointless.

Hanks wall at Brownstones.  Totally eliminate as it just avoids good holds and a massive jug on the right hand side.

[BenF]

Ben, how dare you cast aspersions on the Cave of Ultimate Justice and Truth! I see little difference (save for the view and the landing) between that V7/7a+ sitter down at Cae Du (that I remember we both thoroughly enjoyed that day last summer) and a typical Cave problem, except that Cave problems tend to be longer.

I think you summed it up with "save for the view".  Although you forgot to mention the shit, polished rock. :wink: Thinking about it, I have done a few reasonable problems at the Cave.  But I can only think of Slim off the top of my head...

The Wolf just needs a bit of traffic - I still rate it as one of the best problems in the Pass. Will Perrin did a really cool looking 7a/+ sitter to it as well, which I'd love to go back and do.

I'm sure that under the moss, lichen and dampness there is a fine problem on that boulder and maybe I'll head up there and try again sometime.  Especially since I will be heading that way soon to try that Shelflife problem.

[r-man]

Hanks wall at Brownstones.  Totally eliminate as it just avoids good holds and a massive jug on the right hand side.

I especially like the eliminate sit-start you told me about...   Still haven't done the normal sit-start actually. Seems nails for 7a+. Same goes for the groundhog sitter. 7a+ my (stuck-to-the-ground) arse.  :shock:

[account_inactive]

Hanks wall at Brownstones.  Totally eliminate as it just avoids good holds and a massive jug on the right hand side.

I especially like the eliminate sit-start you told me about...   Still haven't done the normal sit-start actually. Seems nails for 7a+. Same goes for the groundhog sitter. 7a+ my (stuck-to-the-ground) arse.  :shock:

Its amazing what you come up with when you only have one decent place to boulder  

The answer to both problems Robin is PULL HARDER YOU FRUIT

[andy_e]

Here here. Even I was getting (a few centimetres) off the ground on Groundhog sitter! Crimp like a beast beast!

I don't agree with what you say about Digitation... but I haven't done it (too scared).

I also like Hank's wall... but haven't done it. It's not that eliminate really, if you don't do the pure version...

[r-man]

The answer to both problems Robin is PULL HARDER YOU FRUIT

Funny, I get that beta a lot...  

It's not that eliminate really, if you don't do the pure version...

It is.    (but brilliant)

[BenF]

Guerrilla Warfare.  
Utter wank.  
I used to think it would be a great problem to do, seeing as every guide (for the Peak) said it was a classic.  Then I did it for the first time.  Oh no it's not.  Crappy rock on places, poor moves, in a damp pit and permanently shrouded with crowds of people.
Maybe worth it as a warm up from time to time, but that's about it.

[account_inactive]

Well why can'y I touch that big jug on the right hand side?  Even though it is between the 2 cracks?

[Nibile]

hmm...
t crack, trackside, marks roof, gorilla...
what did this thred turn into? diss nibiles favourite probs? :D

[Scouse D]

hmm...
t crack, trackside, marks roof, gorilla...
what did this thred turn into? diss nibiles favourite probs? :D

I'm with Nibile, all these problems are class, with the slight exception of T-crack but that's only cos its an eliminate and I can't do it- but the climbing is great.
Come on Ben- Gorilla Warfare is a top drawer problem and you knows it!
Marks roof is my favourite type of climbing- a proper balls out fight where closing your eyes and sticking your tounge out are pre-requisites for success.

[BenF]

I'm with Nibile, all these problems are class, with the slight exception of T-crack but that's only cos its an eliminate and I can't do it- but the climbing is great.
Come on Ben- Gorilla Warfare is a top drawer problem and you knows it!
Marks roof is my favourite type of climbing- a proper balls out fight where closing your eyes and sticking your tounge out are pre-requisites for success.

No no no, I beg to differ.  T-crack is quality, but Gorilla Warfare?  Dross of the lowest quality.  Well, maybe that's an exaggeration when you compare it against the Breck or other such wank venues.  But dross nonetheless.

As I've said before, Marks Roof is class and our opinions coincide at that point. Safe as fuck.

[SA Chris]

What problem is that, I've lost track of the thread? Looks like a donkey eliminate if you cant use that hold.

[webbo]

i always thought one of the major positives of bouldering was the  absurdity of going into damp pits and other holes in the ground to do your climbing.
as damp pits go gw/ed is quite a nice one.in the days before mats it used to have some mighty fine boards or decking.

[r-man]

What problem is that, I've lost track of the thread? Looks like a donkey eliminate if you cant use that hold.

Yes it's an eliminate. It's Hank's Wall at Brownstones. Apparently first done big-booted by Hank Pasquill back in the day, which is pretty impressive considering it's around 7a/V6. That big hold is out cos it's part of the crack, but the wall's not quite as thin as it looks in Dylan's photo:



There's even a right hand version, which climbs the wall on the right. But none of these actually eliminate holds on route - they're are just quite/very blinkered straight up lines. Don't step on a crack or you'll break your back...