[Buoux 8C]

Once again the king of grit strikes,

This time Voyager, V13 at burbage North, the hanging arete on the Sphinx. it amazes me how someone can be at the cutting edge for so many years. What possibly can be next for Undoubtedly the best climber on grit.

https://www.moonclimbing.com/index.php?form_action=moonblog&moonblog_id=56

[ned]

very good effort. :D

[dave]

word that is a good line - i believe its been tried before by others anall. did someone tell me huffy had been on it, or did i dream that?

[Huffy]

Yeah i was trying that too...fell off last move last time i was out there

I was trying it from standing start tho, I guess ben did it from low?

Rich is right, he is like a gritstone duracell bunny!

Amazing effort.

[webbo]

I was trying it from standing start tho, I guess ben did it from low?

a jump start apparentley.

[cofe]

the full line is still on then...go on. go on cockfingers.

[Bonjoy]

Noticed it was well chalked on Satdy. Now I know why. Top effort! As I was saying on Sat, it was the best unclimbed boulder problem in the Peak.

[Huffy]

Yeah, it's gotta be a contender for one of the best grit lines, It's actually quite scary too; when you slap round the lip it suddenly becomes a scary upside-down prow.

Low start would be hard, if only for the amount of skin loss from your thumb webing!

Oh how i wanted to climb that that...was gonna call it 'northern baseline' and everything...oh none of this matters now! :wink:

Gonna be a good season on the grit

[Ru]

Where does it actually start - do you climb the rof bit from the back, or jump to holds later on?

[Fiend]

Gosh. Well done that moon!

[Ru]

Vid should be up on the Moon site by lunch. No messin eh?

[AndyR]

King of grit?

Coincidentally, you're not sponsored by him are you?

[Doylo]

King of grit?

Coincidentally, you're not sponsored by him are you?

well he has done every 8b ( i think) on grit.

[AndyR]

King of grit?

Coincidentally, you're not sponsored by him are you?

well he has done every 8b ( i think) on grit.

I'm sure you're right (I have no idea).

Being an old punter, I find anything other than piss-taking/abuse uncomfortably fluffy/american.

[Fiend]

Shocking, anyone would think that Frankenjura9a was just bigging up a mate or something  :wink:


Definitely time for a list of all the 8bs (and above) on grit and their ascentionists (most of which I don't know, you bumpy boys fill them in)....

The Ace - FA: Moffat - Repeats: Smith, Moon, ?

Brad Pit sitter + jump - FA: Willenburg - Repeats: 0

8Ball - FA: Moon - Repeats: Smith?, ?

Voyage - FA: Moon - Repeats: 0

High Fidelity - FA: Dunning - Repeats: Moon, ?

Cypher - FA: Moon - Repeats: Dunning, ?

Stanworth Slab - FA: Gaskins - Repeats: 0

....ummmm....?

[AndyR]

What is this 'bigging up' you speak of?

[squeek]

8Ball - FA: Moon - Repeats: Smith?, ?

Boux 8C, Bransby, Ivan Tresch(?), Gaskins

[webbo]

What is this 'bigging up' you speak of?

its like when you post about big frank sending his latest nidderdale test piece.

[Fiend]

But possibly not quite that big.

Ask the UKB gangstas, they'll explain it for you  :wink:


P.S. Squeek: Oh dear    I shouldn't have even bothered trying a list really  

[AndyR]

What is this 'bigging up' you speak of?

its like when you post about big frank sending his latest nidderdale test piece.

I think the last time he did anything notable, it was written up in the magna carta.

[Pantontino]

Another great effort from Ben, and what an amazing legacy stretching back over 21 years of high standard climbing to his original Statement of Youth. Sure, repeats are important, but it's the outstanding first ascents that mark the true masters.

As for the grit 8b list, you missed this:

Ullola - Caley - Steve Dunning - no repeats yet

[squeek]

Ullola - Caley - Steve Dunning - no repeats yet

Where abouts is this?

[webbo]

Ullola - Caley - Steve Dunning - no repeats yet

Where abouts is this?

pinic boulder or there abouts.its a big slopey lip traverse i think.

[Pantontino]

It was listed as a project in the 2000 guide - page 145, boulder 13, problem 5. IIRC Steve did two versions of it, one V12 and one with a harder finish at V13.

[topcat]

Rhythm. Has Bohemian Groove been downgraded?