[Sloper]

Plenty of chalk on cypher on saturday (including the top holds) so it looks like some-one else has been on it, JG perhaps?

[Fiend]

King of Grit, but not King Of Climbing Video Clips.

Can't he get some decent quality video once in a while? It's a pity to have such a memorable problem reduced to a pixelly blur  :?

[a dense loner]

but there can be no doubts :roll:

was there sunday, awesome

[ned]

I checked out voyager this Saturday (I mean I looked at it) - very impressive line that looks well scary. It still needs a low start though.

[andy_e]

great when the guy (ben pritchard?) gets his phone out top tell everyone immediately...

[a dense loner]

yeh, that bit was amazing

[Johnny Brown]

Comical footage, was Pritch pissed or something?

[andy_e]

yeh, that bit was amazing

it was so funny i nearly pissed myself....
 :roll:

[Fingers of a Martyr]

i genuinely lol'ed at denses reply if that counts

[Paul B]

Plenty of chalk on cypher on saturday (including the top holds) so it looks like some-one else has been on it, JG perhaps?

I wonder if Ian Cummins has been back on it, he was doing fairly well up until a week before it was done.
Doing it Old Skool with a rope no mat and a towel....

[Johnny Brown]

What was he using the rope for? Worth noting spoony needed the thickness of a couple of mats to pull, first move is grim without.

[Buoux 8C]

Worth noting spoony needed the thickness of a couple of mats to pull, first move is grim without.
 
 

Are you talking about Voyage or Cypher?

[dave]

don't worry buoux, he's talking about cypher.

[Buoux 8C]

Well then its worth noting that johhny brown dosent have a clue.

One boulder mat beneath a problem is acceptable, he didnt need the thickness of several pads to pull on.
And if your trying to say that its wrong to stand on a single pad before a problem or it changes the grade, then pretty much everyones tick list will be halfed.

[cofe]

it's also worth noting JB watched BM make the first ascent. where there were multiple pads. regardless. Jb's point was that the first move is some reach, even for tallish people. and would be nails if you were dinky. not that a few pads makes it easy.

can we have a pinch of salt emoticon please?

[Buoux 8C]

yes i am sure their where alot of pads, i would want alot of pads if i where to try that line, its high and dynamic and coul easily cause a twisted ankle.

However i am sure that ben didnt need pads stacked on top of each other to make the first move which is what Jb implied.

if you where to look at the footage of ben moon repeating cypher again, you will see that he is able to climb the problem with just one bouler mat lying flat on the ground, therfore not needing

he thickness of a couple of mats to pull

which JB implies.

[cofe]

i'll let the young lady fight her own battles.

anyway:



such a good line. how did it hold out so long (paul?!?). nice to see giza well chalked there too.

[Paz]

how did it hold out so long (paul?!?).

Moony said it bites your skin.  You have to pay a blood price to work it.  


I couldn't even pull on for very long on the old V7 version, using those hand holds as footholds at the start.

I'd've liked another Egyptian name - Voyager's quite cool though - is BM a trekky?

[Johnny Brown]

yes i am sure their where alot of pads, i would want alot of pads if i where to try that line, its high and dynamic and coul easily cause a twisted ankle.

However i am sure that ben didnt need pads stacked on top of each other to make the first move which is what Jb implied.

if you where to look at the footage of ben moon repeating cypher again, you will see that he is able to climb the problem with just one bouler mat lying flat on the ground, therfore not needing

I realise you don't like to hear Ben slighted, however as Cofe has pointed out, I was there on the first ascent. Ben told he found it much more difficult to pull on without the pads (as I recall, one folded underneath one unfolded, on top of the start block). The Bransby and I made some quips about it being cheating, Ben clearly didn't give a toss and his ascent was one of the more impressive pieces of climbing I've seen. I haven't seen the video but it wouldn't surprise me if on his subsequent ascent(s?) he sought to improve on the original. I'm sure if you ask Ben he will corroborate my story, he was certainly honest enough about it at the time. Beware of putting people on pedestals, they tend to jump off   :wink:

[Huffy]

cofe wrote:
how did it hold out so long (paul?!?).

Aww, C'mon man! :wink:

[c.j.d.]

I was actually lucky enough to see Ben repeat Cypher in less than favourable conditions.   One pad, and he pissed it - nuff said.  However, if you cannot reach a starting hold off one pad, and someone who  is 4 inches taller than imaginary short person can, is this really that bad?  I think not, within reason.

[Huffy]

Agree with that. Not into this tsk tsk attitude, it's bollocks.

Hows tricks Chris, heard theres snow on the tops back home...that true?

Climbing much?

[Ru]

I've not tried Cypher, but if I went and tried it, and could do it all except reach the established starting holds (and there was no feasable way of starting lower) I'd probably stack a mat to reach them rather than not doing it. Unless I had to stack many mats in which case I'd feel silly.

[c.j.d.]

Down with that Ru - at the end of the day, you pretty much know when its taking the piss.  Hey Huffy - there is snow.  Unfortunatley, in true welsh style, it is now turning to sleet/rain, so it will be fucked by the end of the day, I dare say.  Wales at the minute is good - lots of hardcorness awaiting just around the corner...  see ya soon man.

[DScuffle]

Down with that Ru - at the end of the day, you pretty much know when its taking the piss.

I've often had ethical dilema's in font with problems that were desparate to start.  I can remember a good few years ago when we went to have a look (and very amitious play on) karma.  Talking of taking the piss - Dutch Master Killer had to give me a bunk up to reach the flake.  It was far more dangerous ( and probably more difficult) doing this move than just jumping to the first hold.  I Certainly didn't want to trash my skin trying this when I realistically stood no chance of completing it.  That said though I have had the same dilema on 6a's.


Looking at the piccie above there looks like (well hard) variations a bound, the move from where he is  up/left into the original 7a version looks desparate.  Does the original finsih up the nose, or go up the groove?