[al]

had always dismissed it as hot zigs poor cousin

yeah, me too, but its actually more like 'hot zig's' moody brother - started stepping off the blocks in the corner at some small but good crimps at the top of the flake, and then follow your nose diagonally right, using the dirty crimpers to the top where the arete meets the flat top - sounds lame but its actually a real buzz cos it sends you out over the drop, and the moves are nice and old skool - if you've a 'hot zigg' wall pic i'll draw it on if you need.
daniel confirmed this as his sequence too, although there is a definite direct to do, which looks like their cruel little sister!
as to the grade, same as 'hot zig' technically (whatever you think that is) but is more sustained higher up - its a grey area thing cos its paddable, but still could be nasty - don't know how you grade these things now cofe - E4 6b/V5? as a ball park

[r-man]

its a grey area thing cos its paddable, but still could be nasty - don't know how you grade these things now cofe - E4 6b/V5? as a ball park

Despite your look of happiness once you'd topped out, your spotters weren't entirely convinced it was a boulder problem... 

[travs]

I did 3 'new' problems here, details as below :

A.   Undercutting, 7a+ : Climb the wall left of the arête to the obvious notch without using the arête.
B.   Heart Stopper, 6c : Climb the arête from a sit start, don’t use the notch out left.
C.   The Ripper, 7c : Climb the wall to the right to it’s highest point without using the arête at all! 7a+ if you use foot holds on the arête and go left at the top.

All are excellent, but then I would say that, please try and comment on the grades - but not harshly.

[Scouse D]

'Undercutting' has been done before and we thought probably more like 6b+ (Cofe, can you remember?),read Al's posts for more info.

[dave]

I did 3 'new' problems here, details as below :

A.   Undercutting, 7a+ : Climb the wall left of the arête to the obvious notch without using the arête.

Assuming we're talking about the buttress in r-man's photos above, then this wall has been done before. or at least something on this wall, i seem to remember it backhanding off an undercut thing, but not close enough to the arete that i'd have mentioned it in the description - maybe your thing isn't the same? the thing we did was certianly nowhere near 7a+, i was going to guess 6b+ then read scouse's reply......

[travs]

I guess it depends on whether you started just left of the arete or slightly up the bank? I started about 1m left of the arete slightly up the bank with right hand on thin undercut/pinch and left on small edge, followed by funny left hand flick to 2 finger undercut to gain the obvious undercut with your right hand. If this goes at 6b+ I may as well eat my boots and give up climbing.

[cofe]

I guess it depends on whether you started just left of the arete or slightly up the bank? I started about 1m left of the arete slightly up the bank with right hand on thin undercut/pinch and left on small edge, followed by funny left hand flick to 2 finger undercut to gain the obvious undercut with your right hand. If this goes at 6b+ I may as well eat my boots and give up climbing.

it was the arete on its left done at 6b+ ish last year which is what the photo above is of - this matches Heartstopper though we didn't do SS. from memory the wall was been done at e1 6b by simon jones a while back ('Pinch n Push'?). can't remember what V grade (bmc money) we thought when out checking.

[dave]

don't put your boots on ebay just yet neil, the thing we're on about is probably ~2m left of the arete up the bank. its only about 2 moves long.

[travs]

Just retrieved said boots from microwave - they're looking a bit worse for wear now but at least I might have staved off having to eat them!

[r-man]

Hi Neil,

As I mentioned above, I did The Ripper with arete. 7a+ was what I guessed too. Very nice problem - good find! Will have to go back and try it without the arete (and without jug to left?), but perhaps this should be mentioned as an eliminate variation, and the arete version regarded as the main line? When the easiest way up makes such a good problem, it seems a shame to imply it's a cop-out.

[travs]

R-man, are you Robin? If so Hi Robin,

I hear what you're saying but I found it more natural to follow the line of the holds and keep you feet with your hands, especially if you haven't used the arete for your left hand to begin with. The problem is way better if you climb it without the arete.

Have a go and let me know what you think of the grade.

Cheers Neil

[r-man]

Yeah, that's me. I'll give it a go. I just climbed the most obvious line, but you may be right that the climbing is better without the arete. I'll just have to go and try it. 

Just to clarify, is the finishing jug of the 7a+ version out of bounds on the 7c?

[travs]

Yep, it is, but what you'll find is that you end up with your feet on bad smears directly below the right hand crimp and it feels more natural to head for the high point up and right of the lower jug - good luck.

[r-man]

Did the strict version of The Ripper today. A couple of slightly different moves, but to me it still feels like an eliminate on an already good problem - though it is an obvious eliminate. I suspect it's easier than 7c, but others will have to try it and see. This takes nothing away from the fact that whichever version you do, it's a very nice sequence of slab moves on good underclings and crimps.   

[Jacqusie]

R-man, are you Robin? If so Hi Robin,



Not Robin Goodlad surely?

si

[r-man]

No.

[r-man]

Baslow shots from today. Some lovely highballs.

[cofe]

the groove in the first pic is excellent. have you been on and done pensioner's bulge and that lot? also, Has Shaun Got False Teeeth? is a decent highball.

[r-man]

Will have to locate a guidebook, I don't know the names of any of the highballs at Baslow.

I've done stuff at three main areas
1.Area round groove - thought the left arete of the groove (in photo) was excellent
2.Slabs around 2nd and 3rd photo
3.Slabs further on, with a thin seam straight up centre, and other stuff to the right. (Is the stuff to the right pensioner's bulge?)

[cofe]

thought the left arete of the groove (in photo) was excellent

this thing?



think the other stuff you're on about is pensioner's bulge etc. it's a great crag.

[Houdini]

It's that Powerball wad, wossis name?  Scarce Dave!

[Scouse D]

look at the size of them forearms.

[r-man]

thought the left arete of the groove (in photo) was excellent

this thing?

I have never climbed upon that thing. However, the arete beneath him looks about right - nice clamping moves to a good slot, and thence the top. Easier than the groove but scarier, I thought.

[cofe]

yeah, world powerball champ did that too. he's on the left hand start there (dodgy landing) with his right hand in the good slot you're on about about to do the last lock to the top. he can turn (gyrate) his hand to anything.

any strong opinion on grades etc?

[al]

look at the size of them forearms.

you put fred nicole to shame there scouse 
think the grade is pretty soft for this but its a bit worrying, easier than the groove - 6b+ish (font)