[Rancid]

hey cofe i was at baslow last weekend.

i havent got the guide on me but id like to comment that on the square block the x2 b2/3 problems with the pockets and high step up to start are a complete sandbag - been a few times and i/and numerous friends can't get on it at all! - we all do 6a's normally fine.

also the sit start b5 i think it is far right or left of those above - its about b3 stand start and sit start b5 but unless im trying it wrong it has a huge reach from the start hold!

[uptown]

lovejoy - there is a way where the eagle stone crimp thing is v6. will show you some time.

I done it at last - few years trying - then it gets down-graded!
Same as attitude inspector - Not all of us can reach between the holds without proper jumping / effort - Don't start grading for giants - it demoralises me!

[dave]

lovejoy - there is a way where the eagle stone crimp thing is v6. will show you some time.

I done it at last - few years trying - then it gets down-graded!
Same as attitude inspector - Not all of us can reach between the holds without proper jumping / effort - Don't start grading for giants - it demoralises me!

yeah that cofe's a proper man mountain. 8'3" of pure reach. he makes Shaq look like mike lea.

[al]

cofe, have done hot ziggerty as a high ball (in fact in the company of 'high ball queen' lisa rands) - old skool 6b (V5?) - nowhere near the mythical lee twins 6c. also did a dirty start off the grass (not the stone) which was more like a mythical lee twins 6c. richie patter thought we should name this 'tony gubbers world of rubber' - please feel free to disregard this.
know of a few obscurantums in this area if you interested (over in the woods back from the track by the cross; also couple of things on the boulder by the tree, by the bench, by the memorial, by fact hunt, by the by).
also refering to dave's list - would hate to think flatworld (the true, original & splendid right side) will get superseeded by the horrible sandy sharp leftside - i can't believe anyone wants to go up there, should be banned .
also know lucy atkinson did some nice things on the rocks below the walnuts .

[Johnny Brown]

would hate to think flatworld (the true, original & splendid right side) will get superseeded by the horrible sandy sharp leftside - i can't believe anyone wants to go up there, should be banned .

You're right Al, in fact I'll apologise for making the first ascent and for publicising it, its really pretty poor. However I had to do something whilst waiting for my companions to tire of attempting flatworld; I had no idea it would become an easier version for the tall.

[al]

[cofe]

lovejoy - there is a way where the eagle stone crimp thing is v6. will show you some time.

I done it at last - few years trying - then it gets down-graded!
Same as attitude inspector - Not all of us can reach between the holds without proper jumping / effort - Don't start grading for giants - it demoralises me!

yeah that cofe's a proper man mountain. 8'3" of pure reach. he makes Shaq look like mike lea.

check me out.

[cofe]

cofe, have done hot ziggerty as a high ball (in fact in the company of 'high ball queen' lisa rands) - old skool 6b (V5?) - nowhere near the mythical lee twins 6c. also did a dirty start off the grass (not the stone) which was more like a mythical lee twins 6c. richie patter thought we should name this 'tony gubbers world of rubber' - please feel free to disregard this.
know of a few obscurantums in this area if you interested (over in the woods back from the track by the cross; also couple of things on the boulder by the tree, by the bench, by the memorial, by fact hunt, by the by).
also refering to dave's list - would hate to think flatworld (the true, original & splendid right side) will get superseeded by the horrible sandy sharp leftside - i can't believe anyone wants to go up there, should be banned .
also know lucy atkinson did some nice things on the rocks below the walnuts .

thanks al. will bear hot zigg in mind and revisit script later. you done cold diggerty to the left of it? or that batu motel thing?

let me know of the other obscure stuff too  and thre LucyA stuff.

[al]

cofe, not done cold ziggerty, although fancy it, don't know what batu motel is?
re. stuff over by memorial:
big natural boulder next to an old tree, 100m towards baslow from the memorial, just off the rough track. There is an obvious rail at the bttm of the blunt left rib. this goes (as does much of your skin) at V6ish (did this with the percy/mike lea mantleshelf skills workshop few years back)
also a lucy atkinson problem up the front of the slab (V? not desperate).
another nice thing: back along the track from the memorial, in the 'gardoms north' crossroads direction, turn right into the woods 50m before the tree on the left of the track, (well before the dry stone walls) and journey into heart of darkness. down there is the 'honey pot wall' a sweet little flat wall with a nice crack up it, V 3/4, (you'll know it when you see it :-) but not much else.

[Percy B]

I'll ask the bird to give you the beta on the problems she did near the walnut boulder Cofe. There are a couple of little gems (not lettuces, mind)!
Daves grades for the Fact Hunt problems are much nearer the mark - its the only occasion I'm aware of where Ru has overgraded things!
Mick Adams repeated the Choker a while back - 7c+ seems to be the consensus. It is an eliminate traverse which should be shit, but actually has some cool moves on it -sometimes I even suprise myself! Mick said he enjoyed it, but it took him a few goes....
I did another shite problem on the back of the Walnut traverse boulder (the block with the easy traverse on - not the block with the Choker on). Its a sitter under a steep prow to a horrific grovelling mantle on the opposite side of the boulder to the traverse. Its quite unpleasant, and made me feel sick. Hopefully its been ungulfed by moss now though so you're all excused.

[(woz)]

Where does the choker actually go? I assume you get the little richard pinch via the tiny crimp and big sloper, but then where? It seemed too low to go "around the arete at this level"
would like to do it though,

dan

[Mark Lloyd]

I used to start the walnut traverse on some good holds around the arete on the left  then drop down onto the sloping shelf maybe added a grade
"The Full Walnut"

[cofe]

nice.

did hot zigg yesterday. absolutely brilliant. e2 6b/v4? dutch and scouse lapped it for the camera. cold diggerty to the left looks like a none-line but would wanna get any knowledge really. went to have a look at monument buttress but was unfortuntely wetter than an otter's pocket. looks good though.

anyone done poppers?

[Bonjoy]

 Back in the day, but stopped it after falling over on the dancefloor and loosing my specs.
 Ever drunk Bailey's from a shoe?

[cofe]

loosing my specs.

you tempt me to whip out the scanner and OTE...

ever been rohypnolled by a swan in cancun?

[cofe]

revisiting baslow at the moment; anyone have anything constructive they'd like to add about the routes or bouldering?

ta

[cofe]

big natural boulder next to an old tree, 100m towards baslow from the memorial, just off the rough track. There is an obvious rail at the bttm of the blunt left rib. this goes (as does much of your skin) at V6ish (did this with the percy/mike lea mantleshelf skills workshop few years back)

going to call this one 'railtrack'. who did it first? does it matter?

anyone tried welford's Higher Ground?

[cofe]

BTW, that Baslow Seperate Reality thing, where's that and how hard (sounds very appealing).

HVS - just right of pensioner's bulge. here demonstred by james 'wolfgang' hogg.

[Scouse D]

revisiting baslow at the moment; anyone have anything constructive they'd like to add about the routes or bouldering?

ta

Yes. I've done a new problem, but you were there when I did it. V4 "The Balls Test". Quality little arete. As for where it was I havn't the foggiest.

[Fiend]

"HVS"? Yes, that looks like an HVS move  :-X

[r-man]

Was at Baslow yesterday and heard Neil Travers has just completed two new problems on the edge above the Walnut. Went and did them - both very good highballs and fine with a couple of mats. Don't know names, but these are they.

Directions: find a path down from the top shortly before the big house sized boulder down on the slope, assuming you are walking in from Curbar end. This is all uphill from the walnut. The problems are on the edge, so you don't need to scramble downhill at all.

First problem is on the left hand wall. Felt like ft6bish. Perhaps even easier, but quite high. I used a heathery handhold in the cutaway which may not have been used on the FA, but it felt silly to ignore it. Very nice.



Second problem I thought was really good. Pleasing moves using undercling and blunt arete, to reach a couple of small crimps. Then stiff rock up and left using a blind foothold on the arete, to grab a good jug. 7a+ish?

[Scouse D]

the top problem is 'the balls test' (see earlier post) done by me last year, and probably before by someone else. the second one is new.

[r-man]

Aha! Did think it looked like it should have been done before. Glad to see my grade guess was about right. Nice problem - deserves to be on everyone's Baslow circuit.

[al]

anyone have anything constructive they'd like to add about the routes or bouldering?

did 'cold ziggerty' tonight cofe, more dangerous than 'hot zigg', and a lot better than it looks - also weirdly relevant encounter with daniel lee on top, who was physced to see it chalked up!
also regards the stuff r-man posted up, the arete/leftwall has been part of the circuit for years, as scouse and r-man thought

[cofe]

anyone have anything constructive they'd like to add about the routes or bouldering?

did 'cold ziggerty' tonight cofe,

nice. any knowledge as to beta, where it goes, any specifics? can't tell much from the floor - had always dismissed it as hot zigs poor cousin.
organics aside, care to offer a grade also?