[cofe]

same as lovejoy's thread really.

if anyone knows of anything new or has any strong opinions on grades etc then would love to hear from you.

both bouldering and routes. and comments on relevant V grades for problems.

ta.

[dave]

ok off the top of me head...this is what stuff feels like to me, and i'm not refering to ru's guide and converting the numbers....

that slabby arete behind flatword V4*. not done slab itsefl, felt V7ish.
Flatworld (LH) V8***. to me flatworld on other side seems a bit illogical, but then i would say that cos i can't touch it.
Beagle thing undercut dyno off mono V7**
Beagle thing off crimps V6**
Beagle thing low roof V7*
Beagle thing rail to slopey finish V7/8***
Beagle thing LH line in the groove, not using the B5* for feet, I've not done it yet but feels V7
Beagle B5 groove thing V3/4**
RH sitting start on the squarestone (old B5) V1
LH sitting start on the squarestone (old B6) V4
fact hunt V7*
slabby mantle thing L of Fact hunt V6

[Bonjoy]

I think the crimpy one on the Beagle stone is very height dependant. It feels lots harder than the wall to it's right to me. I'd say V7.
 I don't think boulderer probs get star ratings in BMC books, if the Roaches one is owt to go by.

[Fiend]

Word to the cofester. You guys really are getting involved, it's cool.

Routes:

Wasted Youth VS 4b
Flying Crag Groove VS 4c *
Don's Mantel E1 5b *
Laicifitra VS 4c *
Whatisit HVS 5b (maybe worth a star)
Route 2 VD
Renaissance HVS 5b *
Shake VS 4b
The Rib VD
Rough Wall Climb VS 4c*
Jolly Green Dwarf VS 5a (maybe HVS, quite sketchy)
Pensioner's Bulge VS 4c (probably should have a star, neat little route)
Hair Conditioned Nightmare HVS 5b * (definitely worth a star, good line and nice moves, maybe E1?)
Index Climb S *
Index Climb Direct VS 4c * (this should have a star too really)
Above and Beyond blah S *
Jam And Blast It HVS 5a ** (backed off this but from the looks of things, hard for the grade but very good)



Problems:

RH sitting start on the squarestone (old B5) - entirely height dependent, V0- for the tall, at least V4 for the short.
LH sitting start on the squarestone (old B6) V4 ** - good problem this.

Walnut Traverse, the easy one - V4** maybe? Not any easier I don't think.

[dave]

i forgot about the walnut traverse. used to think it was a lot of climbing a very falloffable for B6. Maybe V5 these days, or more.

Little Richard Vtoss
Walnutwhip Vshit

[cofe]

dave - think you've just about said what i've got down.

lovejoy - there is a way where the eagle stone crimp thing is v6. will show you some time.

Word to the cofester. You guys really are getting involved, it's cool.

Routes:

Wasted Youth VS 4b
Flying Crag Groove VS 4c *
Don's Mantel E1 5b *
Laicifitra VS 4c *
Whatisit HVS 5b (maybe worth a star)
Route 2 VD
Renaissance HVS 5b *
Shake VS 4b
The Rib VD
Rough Wall Climb VS 4c*
Jolly Green Dwarf VS 5a (maybe HVS, quite sketchy)
Pensioner's Bulge VS 4c (probably should have a star, neat little route)
Hair Conditioned Nightmare HVS 5b * (definitely worth a star, good line and nice moves, maybe E1?)
Index Climb S *
Index Climb Direct VS 4c * (this should have a star too really)
Above and Beyond blah S *
Jam And Blast It HVS 5a ** (backed off this but from the looks of things, hard for the grade but very good)

cheers fiend.

there's an argument for giving many routes V grades as well, e.g. whatisit V1.

re: hair conditioned nightmare - do you use the aretes?

re: the rib - logical way is to do a direct start at about HVS 5a and avoid the diff crack - which incidentally is aweseome.

you done the side wall left of the rib?

shake is worth a star i reckon.

anyone done hot ziggerty or cold diggerty?

[Bonjoy]

Is Hair Conditioned Nightmare the double aretey thing with crack in the middle and slot/pocket things? If so it defo uses aretes, not to would be well eliminate?
 Have you done those HVS 6a/6b type thin quarried wall things near Thin Crack(that name might be wrong), somewhere near the righthand end of crag. Good probs but really hard, have only done one out of three I think.

[cofe]

 Have you done those HVS 6a/6b type thin quarried wall things near Thin Crack(that name might be wrong), somewhere near the righthand end of crag. Good probs but really hard, have only done one out of three I think.

finger crack - VS is excellent.

we went down there is less than ideal conditions and came to the conclusion that maybe at least one of them was fictional. some of the stuff in the froggatt guide i reckon was written without a) visiting the crag and certainly b) never climbing there.

we tried the right hand line that goes up the ramp - by the time you come to go up the jug in the arete is about 1ft away. blinkers at the ready.

the one just right of the crack certainly looks harder than hvs 6a - hence my suspicions as to its grounding in reality.

the 5b one left of the crack is likely to be the hardest 5b move in the world. i need to go back really for a proper look.

also - the capping block near jealous pensioner taken direct is baslow's answer to seperate reality (tongue in cheek). hogg did it and it looked wild. dry humping skills essential for the top out.

keep it coming.

[Scouse D]

 also - the capping block near jealous pensioner taken direct is baslow's answer to seperate reality (tongue in cheek).

Those your words are they Cofe? :wink:

That big route behind the finger crack which got HVS is really only VS but actually very good. Gear is a bit sparce and the rock a bit snappy but everyone who did it that day (me, kim, Bogg(maybe) and Grimer) all thought it was surprisingly good (worth a star like).
Tha fact that you were there at the time probably renders this a pointless post but work is slow today.
That arete boulder problem in the quarry bit is fantastic.

[grimer]

yeah, deciding on stars for routes seems hard enough, but bouldering is much more subjective again. Do people feel you need stars for problems, or does it work well enough as is?

[Stubbs]

I think just having one star for particularly good probs, as in the rockfax yorkshire guide works well, as it saves you wasting your time searching for a problem, only to find out it's rubbish. This may be redundant though if your going to have text for each problem, i guess it's easy enough to write 'classic' 'good' or 'don't waste your time' innit?

[Bonjoy]

The Roaches guide seems to do the job of pointing you at the classics without the use of stars.
 On the other hand I guess you would cut down on the guidebook's word count by using stars instead of hyperbole.

[cofe]

 also - the capping block near jealous pensioner taken direct is baslow's answer to seperate reality (tongue in cheek).

Those your words are they Cofe? :wink:

er, yes. i mean no. i know that you know that i know.

anyone done the choker? or poppers? or slanted and enchanted since holds came off?

[Fiend]

LOL, this is turning into the thread of the month. Forget Thor's Cave or V8+, Baslow is where it's at  :D

Cofe, sorry, I don't remember much about those routes, pretty much all of them were soloed years ago  :? For HCN, I might have done, I remember it felt like good grit 5b.

As for the V grades, I think the way Staff's guide does it is spot on, mostly route grades but added V-grades for highballs, or added adj. grades for highballs in boulder areas.

Stars for problems - agree with Bonjoy.

BTW, that Baslow Seperate Reality thing, where's that and how hard (sounds very appealing).

[cofe]

don't get too excited fiend. keep the snake in the cage.

sep reality is the finish through the crack in the capping block; 'santa claus retreats' or summert. unfortunately no jamming.

will scan and post some pics if i can be arsed. which is unlikely.

[Scouse D]

Post up cofe. For a so-called "photographer" you seem very reluctant to show your pictures, I suspect Dave's missus actually took all your good photos

P.S I really do just want to see some photos- team beardown is being pretty slack at the minute

[dave]

I suspect Dave's missus actually took all your good photos

She certainly took all my best ones. Its pretty hard for me to take a truly superb photo, since by deffinition I have to feature in said photo.

sorry been no photos of late scouse, combination of getting new camera and the fact we've spent the last 3 months at dark shady limestone sport crags.

[andy_e]

sorry been no photos of late scouse, combination of getting new camera and the fact we've spent the last 3 months at dark shady limestone sport crags.

shady character

[Scouse D]

sorry been no photos of late scouse, combination of getting new camera and the fact we've spent the last 3 months at dark shady limestone sport crags.

Font is gonna change all that and put team Beardown back on the map, still gotta sort some Bleaustone shizzle too.

[dave]

for font we need team bleaustone/beardown branded t-shirts, trucker hats and sweatbands. we also need some bleaustone banners to drape down the sides of problems in a DWS style.

Can you get the pronton sprayed-up in a bleaustone paintjob - a bit like those over-caffeinated sugary drink company/VK rep's minis you see parked around crookes?

[Scouse D]

bleaustone paintjob

That's ripe for a spoonerism

I think I'll concentrate on making sure it gets us to font first before I think about painting. Might get a bleaustone tattoo if Steve pays for it.

[dave]

bleaustone paintjob

That's ripe for a spoonerism.

what on earth is funny about "paintstone"?

[(woz)]

i forgot about the walnut traverse. used to think it was a lot of climbing a very falloffable for B6. Maybe V5 these days, or more.

Little Richard Vtoss
Walnutwhip Vshit

Hey, they are my favourite three there! apart from the rail slappy v8 up top.

Walnut Traverse V5*
Little Richard V7
Wallnut Whip V8+* (are you using the v8+ in the guide?? if not V8)

has anyone done the choker?? im thinking of giving it a go now i can cruise the standard trav.

[cofe]

i forgot about the walnut traverse. used to think it was a lot of climbing a very falloffable for B6. Maybe V5 these days, or more.

Little Richard Vtoss
Walnutwhip Vshit

Hey, they are my favourite three there!

you need professional help. although i do think little richard is pretty good, albeit V6.

cheers for the info though - let me know how you get on on choker.

[(woz)]

you need professional help. although i do think little richard is pretty good, albeit V6.

cheers for the info though - let me know how you get on on choker.

And I occasionally enjoy trips to stoney. I worry myself sometimes.  :roll: