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Summer wishlist '05 (Read 25462 times)

Bonjoy

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Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 02:26:47 pm
We've got a winter bouldering orientated ticklist thing going on, but what are you keen to get done for the other six months while the grit's too warm? Limestone bouldering? Moorland grit? Classic trad? Sport routage? Give up climbing and learn to surf?
 At the moment wht's inspiring me:

 Mecca - Finish what i've started, if the undercut ever dries
 Gordale - Get stuck into some big stuff, maybe the Caveroutes and Supercool
 Breach of the Peace - Massive exposure at Malham, footless moves on a roof at the top of a 200 foot overhang wall (it doesn't climb the whole height of this BTW)
 Urgent Action or the Thumb - More big classic sport routing at Kilnsey
 Positron or other of the classic E5s - Finally get round to doing some classics on main wall at Gogarth
 Grinah - Get up to some of the fabled Bleaklow bouldering areas
 London Wall - Has been on the list for several years now but never seem to get round to it.
 Right Wall - Again another super-classic thats burning a hole in my ticklist

dave

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#1 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 02:56:46 pm
ben's roof
a short sport 8a
banana peel, an 8 pitch granite slab 5.8 at squamish
some classic squamish problems
cosmic wheels
the thing (now we are really getting fanciful - anyone got ni beta?)
but really any shady non-sweaty climbing will do.

Bonjoy

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#2 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 03:55:11 pm
I take it from the veritable avalanche of replies that the rest of you will be mooching around a midge infested Plantation moaning about bad skin and greasy conditions :roll:

saltbeef

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#3 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 04:10:59 pm
having been to malham i'm totally psyched!
gotta go back, wanna tick the crag maybe 7c( should do chisseling next time i'm up)
 the machine. if the start dries and if i get any stamina.
to stop being a gaylord and actually climb witha string, rather than lways going  to the tor, and bouldering... which i'm going to do in about 5 mins.

Graeme

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#4 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 04:32:25 pm
I was gonn ahead up to the lakes with my moderately graded ticklist to do stuff like Beastmaster, V5 and Voodoo People, V7 at Warton Pinnacle.
With trips to Carrock, Kentmere, Sampson Stones and the like thrown in for good measure.

If it gets really bad I may go for my annual trip to Stoney, or training at Almscliff when I really can't be arsed.

SA Chris

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#5 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 04:36:37 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
I take it from the veritable avalanche of replies that the rest of you will be mooching around a midge infested Plantation moaning about bad skin and greasy conditions :roll:


Not at all, just dont have any specific routes. Planning on heading up to Sheigra and Reiff again this year, plus getting on some of the mountain classics before midges descend. Make a few trips down to Northumberland and Yorkshire. And plans to develop a few bouldering spots that people have their eyes on, plus visit a few more of the places in Stone Country. Be glad if I am back up to E1/E2 level again by the time I go to NZ in September.

moose

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#6 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 05:07:53 pm
well, unless I find a partner for some trad (trying to summon the courage to place an ad on ukclimbing), I'll be sacrifing heinous amounts of skin to the bouldering gods.   Maybe start venturing to Earl - from Sunday's visit it looks like the best option (north facing, windy).  Shaded places like Kyloe 'In (Hitchhikers is a project) and Shipley Glen (Red Baron) will probably become sickeningly overfamiliar too.

Duma

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#7 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 05:27:21 pm
Cider Soak and Empire of the Sun at Anstey's,
Tenessee and Red Medicine at Coastgaurd
Mark of the Beast and Adrenochrome at Lulworth
Toltec Twostep and Limbo Dancer at Hound Tor
Aviation and Interrogation at Haytor

Sadly my current fitness levels do not fill me with optimism, still, at least theres swimming next to all my sport targets should sun and lactic acid defeat me.

dave

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#8 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 05:55:16 pm
Quote from: "moose"
Shaded places like Kyloe 'In (Hitchhikers is a project) and Shipley Glen (Red Baron) will probably become sickeningly overfamiliar too.


don't think kyloe-in is too shaded no more, what with most of the trees been iced.

Jim

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#9 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 07:40:00 pm
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
I take it from the veritable avalanche of replies that the rest of you will be mooching around a midge infested Plantation moaning about bad skin and greasy conditions :roll:

just got back from havin a really good session at the plantation actually monsiuer lovejoy, even tho it was hotter than the sun still got some shit done (twister & honary caley) and I feel proper fuct now.
only thing I'm really pyched for is weedkiller traverse cos I fell off the slap last move 3 times t'other day pumped out of my mind and I've not done it before... oh yeah and the board

cowboyhat

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#10 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 07:55:59 pm
Now that its becoming a trade route i think i'll try hubble.

JohnM

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#11 Summer Wishlist
April 25, 2005, 09:32:19 pm
Good idea to post a summer wish list then look back and see how much of it you actually did.  Going to be in North Wales all summer hopefully and get loads done round here.  Got a house but no job as yet though.

For bouldering its got to be Lou Ferrino, Cosmic Wheels and Lizard King.

For trad the list is endless but Right Wall, Positron, Freeborn Man and The Great Wall are definitely ones I want to get on.

For sport hopefully redpoint I've Been A Bad Bad Boy or Statement of Youth depending on whether I can find a similarly psyched belayer.

squeek

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#12 Summer wishlist '05
April 25, 2005, 09:48:46 pm
Actually do some trad climbing, whereas last year I did next to nothing, although not having a trad partner for after work doesn't help.  Anyone keen for the lancs quarries mid-week?

Do some harder sports climbing, actually redpointing stuff, and hopefully get into the swing of it all.

Go to the lakes bouldering to all the exciting new venues, and also enjoy some of the easier trad there.

Get some stamina, which might come a bit easier once Longridge opens again next month, still got Bend of the Rainbow and Big Marine to do.

Mr moose - Earl is shady, but if there isn't much wind or it's blowing over the crag the midgies can be unbearable.  I went home from the crag several times last year after work, because I couldn't be bothered putting up with it.  Some of the problems start getting the sun earlier as the sun gets higher too, eg Handy Andy's didn't get the sun on any holds until about 7:20 ish today and was quite cool, but in a few months it will get it earlier.  Cooler crag than most, but pick your days.

fatneck

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#13 Summer wishlist '05
April 26, 2005, 09:50:09 am
Boysens Groove, Pass.
Kingdom of Rain stand-up, Sheep Pen.
Klems Arete, Sheep Pen.
Karma Sutra, Pac Man.
Lucky Boy, Pex Hill.
Pit Bull, Pex Hill.
Everything on the Mushroom Boulder and Purple Slab at Carrock Fell.
Some eliminates in the V5/V6 region at Frodsham.

Get to the mini grit craglet at Trawsfynnydd...

Oh, yeah, and get a job

grimer

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#14 Summer wishlist '05
April 26, 2005, 11:19:26 am
Hi Jonboy, you not been to Grinnah Stones? They're good, but I'll tell ya, if you think it's going to be the best bouldering in the Peak in the nicest location in England, you might be slightly disappointed. It is beautiful, but I thought it was at the top end of the scale of esoteric bouldering. I think you will have a better day out if you bear this in mind. Apparently there's a shooting hut nearby. Would be a good place to spend a sunner evening.

As for tick lists, I've always wanted to tick what i thought was a E5 list, a good solid test on lots of different things around the country.

White Wand, London Wall, Tales of Yankee Power, Central Wall at Blue Scar, Deliverance at Gordale, The Cumbrian, The Risk Business on Craig A'Bhancair, Naked Ape, Positron, Right Wall, Splitstream, A Midsummer Night's Dream, Barbarella, Il Duce, Darkinbad and Caveman.

I've done some but would like to have done them all.

Bonjoy

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#15 Summer wishlist '05
April 26, 2005, 11:29:59 am
Good list, would make a great road trip! Have only done one of those so far. Have obviously still got a long way to go on the road to true E5 mastery.

a dense loner

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#16 Summer wishlist '05
April 26, 2005, 12:13:19 pm
grimer is quite right about the grinah stones. the bouldering is ok in a good setting, an hour's fast walk from the road. it's ok, no more than that. however knowing your penchant for shit esoteria it will probably be the best venue you have ever been to

Johnny Brown

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#17 Summer wishlist '05
April 26, 2005, 07:55:56 pm
Quote
an hour's fast walk from the road


wtf were you doing for two and a half hours then???? Oh, I remember, slipping around in peat groughs in your party shoes whilst cursing the world and everyone in it.
Yeah Grinah stones are way overrated. Load of scrittly rubbish.

Quote
White Wand, London Wall, Tales of Yankee Power, Central Wall at Blue Scar, Deliverance at Gordale, The Cumbrian, The Risk Business on Craig A'Bhancair, Naked Ape, Positron, Right Wall, Splitstream, A Midsummer Night's Dream, Barbarella, Il Duce, Darkinbad and Caveman.


Stone is conspicuous by its absence there. And int Il duce E4? And Caveman E6? Ah well, you can warm up on one and finish on the other.

a dense loner

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#18 Summer wishlist '05
April 26, 2005, 09:47:07 pm
Quote
wtf were you doing for two and a half hours then????


following orders. shit , forgot it took that long. yeh, it's only half hour walk jon

Falling Down

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#19 Re: Summer wishlist '05
April 27, 2005, 09:40:07 am
Quote from: "Bonjoy"
We've got a winter bouldering orientated ticklist thing going on, but what are you keen to get done for the other six months while the grit's too warm?


I've never really put any effort into sports climbing but that's the plan for this year.. grade wise, I'd like to get a 7c ticked but really want to do all the good 7b's and some 7b+'s in the Peak and Yorkshire.

Trad wise - Great Wall (well the 1st pitch anyway); Titans Wall; Left Wall (never done it!) and maybe Right Wall if I'm going well.

RopeBoy

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#20 Summer wishlist '05
April 30, 2005, 09:54:16 pm
Regain some fitness after all the grit routes.

Funnily enough Right Wall is on my list too. Usually get a lot of routage through the summer but we're expecting our first child in July so we'll see how that goes. :lol:

Want to do Adjudicator Wall and a re-match with Our Father, did the low crux okay but being a short arse struggled (fell off a lot!) making the reach into the undercut. :oops:

Do more sport climbing in this counrty.

Do more in the Lakes district, only been up a few times and get back to N Wales.

Much as it galls me, we're thinking off having a regular trip down the wall through the summer to maintain (claw back) some fitness.

J  :)

Danny

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#21 Summer wishlist '05
May 02, 2005, 12:10:33 pm
The summer is (almost) upon us, for me its just the small matter of finals to deal with...a minor glitch I feel.
As for the wishlist: To be in full working order would be nice, but failing that I'd like to do a shit load of climbing (Alpine, trad, bouldering, DWS) and have a shit load of fun in the process.

As for sport climbing, whats that all about?

Mince.

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#22 Summer wishlist '05
June 06, 2005, 09:04:43 am
Bless me father for I have sinned...I have a confession to make.

Yesterday I climbed a route.

On limestone.

And I quite enjoyed it, but I feel dirty.

a dense loner

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#23 Summer wishlist '05
June 06, 2005, 09:41:04 am
like being with a hooker?

tommytwotone

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#24 Summer wishlist '05
June 06, 2005, 10:07:27 am
I wouldn't know...

thinking about it, more like eating a big feisty doner kebab.

Or like the Pot Noodle horn?

 

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