Deliverance (Read 38252 times)

tommytwotone · April 11, 2005, 12:57:01 pm

spent a couple of hours yesterday punishing myself on Deliverance after finally getting the traverse sorted out t'weekend before.

now I don't know if I should persevere as I'm quite short...the only people I've ever seen do it have been lanky - any advice / help appreciated!

petje · April 11, 2005, 01:22:39 pm

is far as i know, is that you have the sidehold and you put your right foot almost completely under your right hand. Left foot is in obvious little dimple. go and lunge with a right-right move. Should work.
Anyone who knows another short peeps variant.

tommytwotone · April 11, 2005, 01:29:03 pm

yeah, yeah - that's what I'm trying, have right hand as high as possible on the flake, left foot on the oval hole - dimple thing and right foot on the flat smeary bit immediately under the flake.

the problem is generating any upwards motion, maybe I'm just a bit weak?

dave · April 11, 2005, 01:35:04 pm

try instead of pasting RF on the flat smeary bit, just down and left of that theres a kind of little undercut seam that just fots the RF nicley, this is whay quim and bluntfield used when they did it, and although i've not done it using that method i've tagged the top that way and it seems better than using the flat smeary bit.

also before you jump drop you left hand right down and widmill it bakc up to get the motion going.

tommytwotone · April 11, 2005, 01:40:59 pm

ah, cheers Dave - think I tried pretty much every right foot position bar that one yesterday...will give that a shot next time, would be flava to nail it fo' sho'.

dave · April 11, 2005, 01:47:18 pm

for a bonus, heres a photo of ultimatewarriorfield on said foothold:

tommytwotone · April 11, 2005, 02:17:19 pm

:up:

top notch, cheers...even more psyched now.

Shame it's Monday and I'm at work.

cofe · April 11, 2005, 04:45:18 pm

yo tommy. don't try and do the move quickly. like craig david says. windmill your left arm down and then just stand back up.

its well jackson. believe.

Johnny Brown · April 11, 2005, 07:00:29 pm

Jeez. You'll note that foothold is lower than the one you were using. If you're really short, which copefield isn't, look at the picture again and do the math. Stick with the smear and learn to use it - the key is to twist your heel out and down on the foothold (so your foot is vertical) rather than trying to edge on nowt.

Quote

drop you left hand right down and widmill it bakc up to get the motion going.
(sic)

I have never found that necessary. Learning to trust the smear will be more help than waving a limb around. :roll:

Oh, and you know the crack is out for the start, right?

p.s.

Quote

although i've not done it using that method i've tagged the top that way and it seems better than using the flat smeary bit.

... and dave is really tall....

tommytwotone · April 12, 2005, 04:47:52 pm

Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

...If you're really short, which copefield isn't...

...and dave is really tall....

that were me original point really - I'm only 5 foot 6, should I just give up now and accept it's never gonna happen?

cofe · April 12, 2005, 04:50:46 pm

kim thinks i'm 'dinky'. i think he's desperately trying to tell his parents something.

hells teeth. don't quit now man, you'll let me down, dave down, johhny down...

Johnny Brown · April 13, 2005, 10:52:36 am

I have got shorter people than you up that problem.

At 5'6'' you need to use the highest foothold, foot pasted vertically.
Don't try and get the jug at first, just learn to trust the foot and use it to gain some height. After 5 goes or so you should get the feel of it - then start concentrating on snagging the jug.

A cold day helps. It gets the shade in the late afternoons/ evenings....

Jim · April 13, 2005, 11:16:37 am

Dr. Gritstone has spoken

tommytwotone · April 13, 2005, 11:48:16 am

word. will stay on the case like Axel Foley.

will let y'all know if I get the mofo.

dave · April 13, 2005, 11:55:05 am

not if, when :wink:

tommytwotone · April 15, 2005, 02:51:43 pm

what, me?

not yet - been stuck in perochial office building, champing at the bit to get out. Might get out this weekend if I'm lucky...

That said, having seen the discussions around erosion on the pebble, will feel v guilty about going there and trying it over the weekend (though the weather might see to that...)

tommytwotone · April 18, 2005, 10:39:26 pm

ok, report from Saturday...been wondering about whether I should admit this or not...

right, long story short: I've recently got back in touch with my Dad after a break of about 13 years, and this weekend he (and my stepmum) came up to Derby for the first time to visit.

In my defence, he has been telling me he wanted to see what "this bouldering thing is about", and that he'd like to go out "on the Peak".

So where better to go than Stanage, specifically to watch me throwing myself up/off Deliverance? For about an hour. Without me ever hitting the top.

Think I might give it a rest for a bit now.

On the plus side, I am way way closer thanks to Dave's beta. Reckon about 3-6 inches off top.

that is all.

dave · April 18, 2005, 10:44:33 pm

in your face JB!!!!!

Johnny Brown · April 19, 2005, 09:35:41 am

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Reckon about 3-6 inches off top

Where do you think he's gonna get that from, eh??

With my beta El mocho went from nowhere to having trouble catching the top as he flew past it...

dave · April 19, 2005, 10:07:27 am

get out of town, your beta got someone as shit as el mocho up it? well i'm converted now.......and you're quite sure it had nothing to do with el Moch being a general wad anyway??? :wink:

and our survey said.....EEEEE-EEERRRR

Johnny Brown · April 19, 2005, 11:01:43 am

Naaaah he's rubbish at slaps and jumps. Summat to do with being born in yorkshire where slapping's cheating and dynos are banned.

I have got other punters up it, he's just the shortest (and probably the worst at jumping)

dave · April 19, 2005, 11:06:17 am

shame he wasn't born south yorkshire - slapping and dynos are mandatory. even cofe slaps when its too far to lock.

tommytwotone · April 19, 2005, 12:06:57 pm

Quote from: "Johnny Brown"

I have got other punters up it, he's just the shortest (and probably the worst at jumping)

there's hope for me yet then...

did try your 'higher foot' flava JB, just found it a bit crazy - getting stood up on my RF was sending me too far back (and off).

Reckon it's a trade-off between Dave's foot position which will be easier to use but lead to a pop / dyno f't top, or using the higher smeary thing which I reckon will be harder to get on but might result in me pimping it static...either of these are limited by the fact that I certainly ain't no wad :cry:

dave · April 19, 2005, 12:15:59 pm

btw its kim's beta really, i can't take no credit for it. Not that i'd want to.

Johnny Brown · April 19, 2005, 12:50:23 pm

Quote

did try your 'higher foot' flava JB, just found it a bit crazy - getting stood up on my RF was sending me too far back (and off)

Yeah - I warned you about that - just try to get weight on it at first without worrying about hitting the hold. Remember - don't think - feeeel.

At your height you'll have to dyno/pop a little anyway. It's not a truly static move even for the tall.