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Deliverance (Read 38249 times)

tomtom

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#50 Re: Deliverance
March 30, 2009, 02:23:19 pm
Get your right foot where your left currently is and then step out left to a decent smear for the left foot, drop your left arm low and sink down a bit and then fling your left arm upward whilst pushing hard through the feet. latch & mantle. Result.  :beer1:
Cheers Richie - is that the good foothold that you cross through with the left into on the traverse? Hmm, that might require a bit of jiggery pokery to get the RF foot in there...
I managed to get to a stance with my RF on a higher smear and LF on the smear you talk about out left (I think) but it didnt feel secure enough to launch from. I guess if you get your RF in that better hold then you can give it some more beans...

tommytwotone

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#51 Re: Deliverance
March 30, 2009, 05:25:07 pm
Sounds like you've been trying the short man's method there - bet it's well tricky if you're folding 6 foot 3 of leg up onto that high smear!

The lanky fella's advice is bang on - I've looked on enviously while many a tall fella iced it this way.

lagerstarfish

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#52 Re: Deliverance
March 31, 2009, 12:49:09 am
Since I was up there today, I tried to video my tall mans beta - I think this is the same as described by Richie Crouch above. Unfortunately the light was a bit flat so the foot holds don't show up very well. I also failed to do the problem. This gives a general idea of the feet for tall people... for what its worth...



Look, if I can do most of the moves in my lardy/weak state and in those shoes then the rest of you have no excuse. Get on with it  :spank:

I ought to have gone lower onto the left foot to get more push, but was feeling too scared due to being more than 18" off the floor.
« Last Edit: March 31, 2009, 01:16:55 am by lagerstarfish »

SA Chris

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#53 Re: Deliverance
March 31, 2009, 08:03:48 am
Loving the fact that you still own a serviceable pair.

tomtom

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#54 Re: Deliverance
March 31, 2009, 08:38:15 am
Since I was up there today, I tried to video my tall mans beta - I think this is the same as described by Richie Crouch above. Unfortunately the light was a bit flat so the foot holds don't show up very well. I also failed to do the problem. This gives a general idea of the feet for tall people... for what its worth...

Look, if I can do most of the moves in my lardy/weak state and in those shoes then the rest of you have no excuse. Get on with it  :spank:

I ought to have gone lower onto the left foot to get more push, but was feeling too scared due to being more than 18" off the floor.

 :bow:
Thanks lagers for that - waddage muchos deservos.. Thats what I imagined after the beta above (thanks gents) - and the little foot match to get the RF up... great. Unfortunately I'm not going to get back on it for a week or two as I wont be over.. but when I do...
You can see my chalky slap marks (as its only about 4-5 hours after I was there). For the record, the 2nd from bottom was me static, 2nd from top me bobbing from the static.. and above...someone else  :)
I only had one smallish mat and decided to give it a rest after missing my mat and jarring my heel when I decided to give it some...

lagerstarfish

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#55 Re: Deliverance
March 31, 2009, 08:42:50 am
In decent footwear you can get a no hands shake out at the foot match - which does much for confidence. There are two matching mini-scoop-pocketish smears; going straight to the R one with the R foot saves on moves for us people of a reasonable stature.

That landing feels so much better with 2 mats.

In hindsight, I should have included the beta of exactly where to place the mat for this method.
« Last Edit: March 31, 2009, 08:50:23 am by lagerstarfish »

Dolly

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#56 Re: Deliverance
March 31, 2009, 10:07:40 am



Quote
Cheers Richie - is that the good foothold that you cross through with the left into on the traverse? Hmm, that might require a bit of jiggery pokery to get the RF foot in there...
I managed to get to a stance with my RF on a higher smear and LF on the smear you talk about out left (I think) but it didnt feel secure enough to launch from. I guess if you get your RF in that better hold then you can give it some more beans...

I would suggest trying it with your left foot in that hold - as you say much easier to get in there from the traverse, then your right foot where you can see mine on the pic. Having a good stable base for your left makes it loads easier to push from that on to your right  - if you see what I mean. I'm 5 11 and its a long deadpoint for me, so should be easier for you  - if that helps

cofe

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#57 Re: Deliverance
March 31, 2009, 10:23:53 am
yeah i don't use the smear, there's a decent vertical seam down and left from it. the left foot base is key.

lagerstarfish

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#58 Re: Deliverance
March 31, 2009, 12:02:46 pm
I'd like to do that move off the good left foot (have tried it using the vertical seam), but have only tried it when conditions have been mediocre and felt that better friction would make it more possible - am I deluding myself? Obviously the arm swinging leap method isn't so conditions dependant.

tomtom

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#59 Re: Deliverance
March 31, 2009, 12:10:19 pm
I'd like to do that move off the good left foot (have tried it using the vertical seam), but have only tried it when conditions have been mediocre and felt that better friction would make it more possible - am I deluding myself? Obviously the arm swinging leap method isn't so conditions dependant.
THat was the way I was trying it - and found myself getting all bunched up - trying to loose 6'3" of height! It didnt feel like i was getting much from my right foot on the smear  - aside from some stabilisation... it felt like all the beans were coming from my left foot. The swinging arm helped..  Looking forward to trying the RF in the good hold left foot on the smear swing and WAHEY! (or plop) method!
Some great feeling moves on this..

tomtom

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#60 Re: Deliverance
April 03, 2009, 10:46:58 pm
Tried the tall mans way tonight.. much much closer, only an inch away now... (honest!) will post some piccies tomorrow so you can criticise my shabby technique and tell me where I'm going wrong... though I think I just need to practice jumping more! Its something I've not really done much of!

Oli

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#61 Re: Deliverance
April 03, 2009, 10:54:54 pm
It's all about getting the left foot sorted correctly. If you have a feel around in some soft boots, it'll feel almost like a small edge when your foot's in the right place.

tomtom

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#62 Re: Deliverance
April 03, 2009, 11:07:22 pm
Here you go...




Oli - I'm pretty sure I had my left foot in just the right spot - both feet felt dead secure.. Just need a bit more beans - and probably to get down more on that left foot..

tommytwotone

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#63 Re: Deliverance
April 03, 2009, 11:13:41 pm
One thing I gather helps a lot of tall fellas trying this method is to really swing your left hand down, almost behind your arse / back, then just chuck it up there and you seem to pop at the right moment naturally.

Not sure why but it seems to help - I think it might be to do with the fact that you only look up at the last minute...

tomtom

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#64 Re: Deliverance
April 03, 2009, 11:20:55 pm
One thing I gather helps a lot of tall fellas trying this method is to really swing your left hand down, almost behind your arse / back, then just chuck it up there and you seem to pop at the right moment naturally.
I found it really helped (an extra few cm!) to pinch the pebble on the left when bending down - kept me in balance more and made me feel more comfortable putting more weight on the LF. then throwing the arm when I went...
I think I just need to practice jumping! Its daft but I think the last time I probably practiced jumping was at school! I'm sure with a bit of practice I can gain a couple of inches of spring! Well thats the plan!
Short mans method (high RF, LF in pocket) is a real no no for me - I'm all coiled up wrong....

dave

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#65 Re: Deliverance
April 03, 2009, 11:23:41 pm
One thing I gather helps a lot of tall fellas trying this method is to really swing your left hand down, almost behind your arse / back, then just chuck it up there and you seem to pop at the right moment naturally.

Not sure why but it seems to help - I think it might be to do with the fact that you only look up at the last minute...

you're on the...


meatball

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#66 Re: Deliverance
April 04, 2009, 05:25:35 pm
my left hand was by my left foot before the throw up when i did it, if that helps. by you're pics, it'll be in the bag soon  :great:

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#67 Re: Deliverance
April 05, 2009, 09:21:42 pm
being a man of stature, i am directing this at the taller folk. i too found it easier with my left hand clutching at the pebble for balance, my feet were low eg not directly below the flake, and i popped for it without much swinging of arms. i was trying it for the sake of being so close and was shocked when i snatched the jug! immense feeling so keep going at it ! :)

tomtom

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#68 Re: Deliverance
May 04, 2009, 06:08:56 pm
Had another play yesterday after 3-4 weeks of 'jump' training!! Gained another inch - inch&half, so now just below the lip! Frustrating, but I suspect after a bit more jumping practice it'll be there. My left leg is aching today - so must be getting most of my lift from that...
T

tommytwotone

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#69 Re: Deliverance
May 04, 2009, 07:05:15 pm
Had another play yesterday after 3-4 weeks of 'jump' training!! Gained another inch - inch&half, so now just below the lip! Frustrating, but I suspect after a bit more jumping practice it'll be there. My left leg is aching today - so must be getting most of my lift from that...
T

I bloody hope you were doing the 'King Louis' technique with the left arm...


tomtom

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#70 Re: Deliverance
May 04, 2009, 09:53:48 pm
Had another play yesterday after 3-4 weeks of 'jump' training!! Gained another inch - inch&half, so now just below the lip! Frustrating, but I suspect after a bit more jumping practice it'll be there. My left leg is aching today - so must be getting most of my lift from that...
T

I bloody hope you were doing the 'King Louis' technique with the left arm...


I was throwing everything I could upwards! Starting to wonder if I could actually pinch the RH hand hold and yank up on it! Next time ... next time  :)

Sloper

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#71 Re: Deliverance
May 04, 2009, 10:31:06 pm
Shit problem, a waste of time and effort and no, I can't do it.

grumpycrumpy

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#72 Re: Deliverance
May 04, 2009, 10:36:08 pm
Shit problem, a waste of time and effort and no, I can't do it.
Damn , and there was me hoping for a Sloper grade for it .....

Drew

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#73 Re: Deliverance
May 04, 2009, 10:44:14 pm
Good problem, good fun (that's the point of bouldering right?), and quite easy if you can jump from slopey footholds.

Easy traverse into massive jump. Doesn't get much better.

nai

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#74 Re: Deliverance
May 08, 2009, 02:16:33 pm
Not much use to tomtom but for ttt and any other shorties trying this, it is possible at 5'6".  After months of attempts I have finally had my YYFY moment.



 

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