[Coops_13]

M: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Pull-ups +40lb X3 *3. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 35lb OH *3. G1, legs. Squats 175lb X5 *5sets. Bulgarian split squats 65lb X5 *5. Trap bar deadlift 255lb X3 *3sets.

T: G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +60lb HC *3sets. Kilter board 40 degrees. 1 V1, 1 V2, 3 V3, 8 V4. 13 climbs total.

W: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets. Density pickups 40lb HC *3, 35lb OH *3. G1, Legs. Heel-elevated squats 155lb X5 *3sets. Dumbbell RDLs 60lb (2) X5 *3sets. Bosu ball single-leg balance 30s *3sets. Weighted pull-ups +55lb X3 *3sets. Lower body stretching

T: G1. Two arm hangs up to 20mm +65lb HC *2sets. Kilter board 40 degrees. 2 V2, 4 V3, 2 V4, 6 V5. 14 climbs total.

F: Core. Hollow body holds 30s *3sets, Plank 1min *3sets, V-ups X10 *3sets.

S: Duncan's Ridge. Horsetooth Reservoir. Bushwhacked through maybe half a mile of brambles to find Icebreaker Arete, mega high V4. Made good progress with no pain to the high top which, after a few big falls, I gave up on - need a spotter. Bushwhacked back to the main crag and did Rough Hugs V4 very quickly. So good to be out again and able to try boulders > V1!


S: Hiked to check out more boulders in the Flatirons with dog. 3 miles, 1100ft. Went to Elevated boulders and Land of the Lost - so many good boulders up there

[Duma]

Good to see you out again Coops.

M - 2 x 1:40 plank. 20 press ups, 20 pull ups, 100 squats. Back bridges for hamstring. Aeropow repeaters on 20mm edge @ 50kg, 7:3 x 12 x 6 sets, 4 min btwn sets. Tests very faintly positive so still isolating tomorrow.
T - 2 x 1:50 plank. 20 press ups, 20 pull ups, 50 squats. Back bridges for hamstring. Felt slightly worse health wise so that was it. Tests still faintly positive so still isolating tomorrow.
W - 2 x 1:50 plank. 20 press ups, 20 pull ups, 50 squats. Ancap repeaters on 20mm edge @ BW, 7:3 x 6 x 6 sets, 3 min btwn sets. Finally a negative test! Fingers crossed for tomorrow...
T - FREEDOM! 2 x 1:50 plank. Indoor routes at Redpoint. Deliberate easy session to see how I felt: 6a+, 6a, 6b+, 6b+, 6c, 7a, 6c+, 6b+, 6c, 7a+, 6b+, all OS or flash. Really relieved to not feel knackered after.
F - 2 x 1:50 plank. Indoor bouldering at TCA.  Did comp as was last opportunity before they got taken down next week - 25 problems, 18 flash, 21 tops, close on one other. Could maybe have flashed a couple more but otherwise a decent stab - though obviously don't know how they would have felt if I hadn't been just back from covid. Knackered after, but was a big session. 12hr night shift was tough.
S - slept a lot. 2 x 1:50 plank. 50 press ups, 100 squats, 10 pull ups. 12hr night shift - much easier than Fri.
S - 2 x 1:50 plank. Ancap repeaters on 20mm edge @ BW, 7:3 x 6 x 6 sets, 3 min btwn sets. 12hr night shift.

71kg

Still feeling a bit "breathy" from covid but has improved over the weekend, and seemed to deal ok with a fairly heavy session on Friday. Fingers crossed I've dodged the longer lasting effects, won't be doing any cardio for at least another week though.

[csl]

Glad you are getting back to it Ross, and good effort managing to train through Covid Duma!

Jan Goals
- do 90% of planned sessions ✅ giving myself this one, did 14/16 sessions (87.5%). Had a few days off at the start of the month cos I went too hard too soon.
- lose 2kg ❌ This just didn't happen. Next month I just need to cut out some of the eating out and takeaways to make a dent.

Weight: 78.2kg

Monday
Rest

Tuesday
2 arm hangs, lattice edge. 5x7seconds with 33kg added
Board - Limit bouldering, did a couple of new "medium"s.
On the minute boulders - 30 mins.

Wednesday
Rest

Thursday
Stronghold LDF - Trying to flash or 2nd try a bunch of stuff.  Started on the Kilterboard and flashed 3 >= 7A's and tried another 5 or 6. Did 2 7A's on the normal problems and did ok on a 7A+.
Lock offs, short ones to failure.
Weights/Rings including Y's and T's. Good shoulder doms the next few days from this.

Friday
Rest

Saturday
1 arm hangs on lattice edge. 5x7seconds minus 10kg
Short board session, not much success but tried hard.
Weighted pullups 3x5, fast pullups 3x5.

Sunday
Tried to do AnCap on the board but skin was too painful, did the AnCap and AeroCap sessions from the Crimpd app on the fingerboard instead.

A good week, and an ok month getting back into training. Booked a trip to Lofoten in the summer, mainly for some longer rock routes, but the bouldering also looks excellent. Looking forward to getting out a bit more in February and March, would like to visit Anstey's and have a trip to North Wales ideally. 

Goals for February
- Do 90% of planned sessions
- Lose 2kg (will require a more concerted effort to stop eating takeaway pizza  )
- 3x days out on rock

[shark]

M. Home FB warm up. Warmed up at crag on Donostiara 6b which Duncan had already done. Great route. Full 40m. Would make a great E2 trad route which apparently is how it was originally done. I had two tie ins again on Lore Basatia. Refined beta and got some longer links but not optimistic I’ve got enough endurance to do it. It’s up there with the best and hardest 7c’s I’ve done and feels on a par with  or New Dawn and just as good. Overall about 27 metres and about 15degrees overhanging. Mainly runout endurance but with two similar cruxes. The first I’m sure I can get through and have already fallen off midway through it climbing from the ground. I’ve linked the next 20 feet to the bolt by the second crux but I’ve a mild pump by that point and there’s no shake before doing that crux. Even after the second crux there’s only a poor shake another hard move and easily droppable scary 7a+ climbing for another 15 feet before a good rest to get enough back for the last bit.

T.

W. Another two runs up Lore Basatia. Second go did it with three rests. One more chance at it before I leave

T.

F. Didn’t sleep well. Early start for us as catching plane in afternoon. For me a quick warm on the initial 7a bit of Lore Basatia then 10 mins rest then big effort on redpoint. Got a bit more back on the poor shakes after the first crux but still pumped clipping bolt at start of second crux but managed to start crux sequence at least before coming off. After rest got through that crux first go but had to rest on next bolt but then through to the top. Highpoint and reduced from three hangs to two but still need significantly more endurance and recoverability to do it. Something to come back for.

F

S

S Nice long group walk from Bamford up to the edge across to Stanage back down via Plantation and then paths below the road

Going to take 6 days off. Was shocked to find I’d put on a 1lb at 164.6lb/74.7kg (Duncan had lost 3lb) as convinced I’d lost it as was pinching less on midriff. Impedance scales confirmed that I’d reduced fat% and gained muscle. Still far too heavy though but dropped 2lbs since.
Great trip but disappointed with performance. Need to benchmark myself on my projects to properly understand where I am and what I need to do.

[Fultonius]

Going to take 6 days off. Was shocked to find I’d put on a 1lb at 164.6lb/74.7kg (Duncan had lost 3lb) as convinced I’d lost it as was pinching less on midriff. Impedance scales confirmed that I’d reduced fat% and gained muscle. Still far too heavy though but dropped 2lbs since.

Shark, shame it wasn't a better trip for performance but if nothing else you've got some great sounding things to go back for.  This comment about being heavier with lower% bodyfat (i.e. more muscle) but you "feeling" like that's too heavy - why is it necessarily bad?  It's unlikely it's leg muscle you've put on and surely any gains for a non-adolescent male should be welcomed?  Are you perhaps actually under-fuelling your exercise hence the poor performance often? You seem (from a distance) to have a strong association with a "target" weight. I've done this for years (as 74kg often coincided with times when I climbed well). However, on refection of my less than meteoric gains in the last 5 years, injuries, lack of motivation etc. I realised that I was just not eating enough and enough of the right stuff. When I did my hardest sport route it was just after being 79kg, I think I'd dropped to about 77kg but certainly not 74...

No idea if this is way off the money....

[duncan]

Good to see you back in the saddle Coops.

M - Easy day: 5 6as or 5+s at the local Ecole d’Escalade. Elbow felt better for it.
T - Shoulder conditioning. 12km walk around old Pamplona.
W - Warmed-up and tried Las flores del mal again. Felt generally anxious due to some non-climbing stuff and pretty uncomfortable above bolts but managed to dog all the way to the top putting the clips in. Rested, did some active relaxation work, first time I've ever tried anything like this at the crag. Had another try getting to one hold before it becomes easy. Fell off rather than grabbed the draw which was notable improvement. Felt positive about having given it a good shot and would have been happy if that had been it on the trip.
T - Shoulder conditioning.
F - Warmed-up putting the draws in Las flores del mal. Had a good rest belaying Simon on his proj. then got back on it and climbed it with 10 minutes to spare before we had to leave. YYFY. Travel back to UK.
S - Shoulder conditioning
S - Shoulder conditioning. Walked 12km around Hampstead Heath etc.

Thoroughly enjoyed the climbing at Etxauri, the company, and the weather was amazing. More thoughts and some pictures.

Now for the power club stuff. Before the trip I’d had two days of sport climbing and three climbing wall sessions since early July: did some trad. climbing followed by three months of conditioning between spells of single-parenting and a virus of some kind. Not surprisingly at the start of the trip I was running out of gas after 5 moves. I was also more nervous than I anticipated. Perhaps most shocking was how little capacity I had for trying remotely hard and how quickly I ran out of puff. I’ve never needed so many rest days on a trip! By the end I was a lot more relaxed on the sharp end and had slightly more in the tank before the fingers started to fade. I still had very little capacity for trying hard repeatedly.

I’ve got five months before a big trip for which I will need all the middle-distance endurance I can gain (2-3 minutes red-pointing efforts). I also want to be onsighting trad. routes (20+ minutes go-stop-go) in May and July/August. Being able to walk uphill for 60-90 minutes with a pack without expiring would be a bonus. Simon suggests 4x4s and 20/10s. What are your favourites for this kind of fitness?

Going to take a few days off then crack on with the 4x4s and so on.

[shark]

Shark, shame it wasn't a better trip for performance but if nothing else you've got some great sounding things to go back for.  This comment about being heavier with lower% bodyfat (i.e. more muscle) but you "feeling" like that's too heavy - why is it necessarily bad?  It's unlikely it's leg muscle you've put on and surely any gains for a non-adolescent male should be welcomed?  Are you perhaps actually under-fuelling your exercise hence the poor performance often? You seem (from a distance) to have a strong association with a "target" weight. I've done this for years (as 74kg often coincided with times when I climbed well). However, on refection of my less than meteoric gains in the last 5 years, injuries, lack of motivation etc. I realised that I was just not eating enough and enough of the right stuff. When I did my hardest sport route it was just after being 79kg, I think I'd dropped to about 77kg but certainly not 74...

No idea if this is way off the money....

My experiences differ to yours then. My best performances have been when I’m about 11 stone or a bit under so weighing in at 11.10 (the most Ive been in recent years around Xmas is 11.12) was a shock especially as I’d thought I’d lost weight on the trip and concerning as it takes me a long time to lose weight and I’m higher than normal for this time of year.

The 11.4-6 range is my target as it is sustainable and allows me drop to my (unsustainable) redpoint weight within a few weeks, for a few weeks.

[mr chaz]

Nice one Coops.

Had pretty bad DOMS after last weeks visit to the wall, particularly around left arm which isn't a surprise as its still noticeably weaker than my right. Took it easy all week.

Saturday - 1.5 hours on the woodie whilst keeping an eye on the little one, making up easyish problems, tweaking the layout and adding on my last few holds. Back, arm and shoulder strength needs building up again, finger strength feels ok (again, makes sense after many months of only fingerboarding).

[Aussiegav]

Another good week. Life’s good.


Monday - rest

Tuesday
Awesome Walls after work, projecting session.
Did the following routes
5b, 6a, 6a+  as warm up routes.
Went on the 6b+ I fell twice on last week. First go I forgot a sequence down low so reacquainted myself to the moves to the top. Did it next go.
Projected a 6c.  Went up on a working go, did all the moves. Worked some sequences out then rested. First Redpoint I duffed a few clipping positions and rested on the bolt. So refined the sequences had a 15min rest and did it comfortably next go. Very pleased with that.
Warmed down on a 6a+.
Great session.

Wednesday
40min peloton ride


Thursday
Evening session of Density hangs at home.
Warmed up with crimp curl repeaters with
Then two longer hangs 20s at 20kg assistance.

Density hangs. 4x30s.
4 hangs with 16.7kg assistance. Maintained good form and left a few seconds in reserve.
2 more weeks of density hangs to get tendons and connective tissues conditioned and ready for high intensity work from max hangs.

Friday
Went to the School after work. Boulder Mileage, 15 problems with 2.5min rest between problems/attempts. Problem range 6a to 6A+. Nice quick efficient session


Saturday-rest

Sunday
Mid morning session at the School with a good crew who arrived later.
Did a 15min send session. I devised this session to get better at reading problems quickly and introducing more variety instead of doing the same problems. The aim is to pick a new problem and try and send in 15mins. Move on to a new problem at the end of the 15mins.
Picked two on the 2019 Moonboard and then picked two on the 2016 Moonboard. Did the first problem, didn’t manage the others.
Picked two crimpy ones on the 2016 as it’s a big weakness of mine.
Thoroughly enjoyed this session.
 
Finished with 3 sets of French pull ups.

I did a 45min ride on the Peloton in the evening with a good stretch afterwards.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Endurance club...

M: Short afternoon session @ AW - Routes up to F6b+
T: Routes @ AW - Harder session, worked new F7a+
W: Rest
T: AW with daughter - did a few autos up to F6c and she led 2 full-length routes (thus burning off her brother who was isolating at his mums - the climbing wars, begun they have.....)  Finished by flashing a bunch of new orange blocs...
F: Rest
S: Routes @ AW - Warmed up then got on F7a+, dropped crux due to twatting elbow on big blobby hold going for crimp... Decided not to have another pop and elect for an "easy" F6c... Shit the bed! Made a meal of it and nearly came off...
S: Back to AW - Warmed up and did some fingerboarding while GF climbed with a mate. Rinsed F7a+ to the last move which involved a high step onto a smear while pinching a poor sloper... Didn't place the foot right and couldn't adjust so peeled off backwards... Wasn't too fussed as was feeling beat anyways so just getting there was a bonus... 4x4 and polished off the rest of the orange blocs to finish... Trashed!

Much better this week... Shoulder, neck and elbow seem fine... A bit of easier climbing and being back on the string seems much kinder to my ageing frame...  Still need to work on raw power (as I really have very little/none) but need to be aware of the toll it takes on my body and not get carried away by mates inviting me bouldering and/or just hitting the board or blocs when I can't blag a catch....

[User deactivated.]

Missed a couple of weeks. No notes but summary below.

4 weeks into the diet. Down 3kg to 81kg and feeling a bit flat and groggy. Power at the beginning of a session hasn't dropped yet, but it doesn't last long; I can only do about 45 minutes on the board.

Other than that i've only been outside once, for a second session on like a hurricane. Managed all the moves but no good links. Finding this one hard and I think it's technique related. Did the top out by headtorch, over 1 pad with no spotter, which was terrifying.

Lots of training as usual. New pb on 1 rep max pullup at +67.5kg on rings. Absolute levels of finger strength dropping very slightly. Hopefully this returns once I achieve a target weight and start eating a bit more.

[yetix]

M rest
T BM1k bottom outside edges HC 5x7s +27.5kg
20mm mid 2 HC pick up 5x7s 20kg
W board, close on a problem I've been working for a few sessions, did a new moderate, tried a couple of harder things, all the moves on 1 and all but 1 move on another. Pretty psyched about how various problems are going on the board, but would like to close the account on 1 which has felt close for 3 sessions!
T rest
F FB bm2k bottom middle edge 5x4s RH BW, 4x5s -5kg LH and 1x3s(greesed off!) . Felt tired I think due to a poor night's sleep. Also if bad fb cons exist I found them! The Hangar was rammed!
S rest
S cave, busy which made pulling on long stuff a bit of a nightmare. Did the first moves of cave life (full version) a few times but dropped the match Into the wobbly bloc, pretty confident if get into the RA hold I'll go to the end, but don't get many goes on the first move before my skins in bits and my tension is gone to hold the starting hold. Moved onto Hatch briefly to re quaint with moves, did all in a couple of goes. Moved onto Broken heart. Always found this one hard work. Did the 2nd move to the good jug on the stands within a few goes(2nd move was the crux for me in the past), then repeated lip service 2nd go. Went from the start but came off the move to the mini jug (3rd move) a bunch of times from the start (when I put my RF on I wasn't taking the left heel off fully which was limiting my reach to the 3rd hold). Felt pretty close as I can recover well if I get to the stands. An another option in the cave is pretty cool.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - injured. Lateral raises and biceps curls.
Tue - injured. Lateral raises, triceps, biceps, shoulders, fingers (this: https://youtube.com/shorts/Gj97HZTy84M?feature=share). Better than nothing. Very frustrated.
Wed - injured. Light weights.
Thu - injured. Light boxing bag.
Fri - injured.  EMOM weights.
Sat - injured. Easy Lattice edge hangs, barbell complex.
Sun - injured. Amazing fingerboarding session. BM back2 on medium pockets, mid2 on small pockets, front2 on outer edges; Lattice Edge up to +4 kg (very short hang) and +2 kg (solid). RH one arm hang on 1 cm taking off 5 kg (very short hang) and 6 kg (solid). One armers on Lattice Edge at 85%. Quite pleased. Weights: 3' barbell complex: overhead carry 1', press x5, hip hinge x10, clean x10, iso hold to end. All x5, 3' rests.
I am probably healing.

[Bradders]

M - AM conditioning; weighted pull ups 3x 3 +18kg, superset with wide Arnold Press. Then rings wide press ups & Ts and external rotations. Then aerocap; 3x 5 mins on 3 mins off, low pump.
M - PM walk 9.3km (to the pub)

Tu - rest, terrible night's sleep. Chest DOMS from rings work. Been a while since I was on these. PM 6.5km walk to the shops so 2nd half weighed down with a rucksack full of food.

W - lunchtime fingerboard session. First one arm hangs session (testing aside) in ages. 5s half crimp, Lattice edge, 4x straight arm and 4x 90' lock. Found the former nails and had to have 20kg off to do. Locks easier, started at 15kg off but last 2 upped to 17kg. Found the whole session really hard. Arms definitely a limiting factor more than fingers.

Th - Ilkley. Knackered from lack of sleep. Warmed up a bit slowly. Sorted all the sequences on Calf Traverse so hopefully that's nicely lined up for a future session.  6/7 goes at link up project. 2nd was best, pretty much matched my high point. Later on worked out a new way for the crux move which I think will be the way; means you can take the crucial hold in much more control. Quite glad James didn't do it if I'm honest, would really like to get it done!

F - lunchtime conditioning; one arm rows, bent over Ys, gym ball hamstring and core stuff.

Sa - pick up FB to start. Pinky and index monos, and middle 2. Plus 3x 6 weighted pull ups +13kg. Then down to Anston Stones. Bit of a humbling visit really. According to my training plan should have done a limit board session focusing on 1-3 move problems. Basically did that on rock. Tried Soul Crusher, Black Crow and Dark Art. Didn't do a single one of the hard moves on any of them but tried hard at least. Did a couple of easier things albeit not without difficulty. Think I'm well out of practice on this style!

Su - rest

[Fultonius]

Light week trying to get back into it after tweaking my wrist.

Weight, still around 78kg. Had a couple of days where I probably under-ate and then was tired and low mood the next day.

m:  2 x 10m aerocap on the autobelay;  6 x 15 move ancap (1m on 2.5m off) Short session as time limited.
T: nowt much
W: Also time limited due to burns dinner and listening to our new temp flatmate's music release at celtic connections...  Some 1-arm max hangs, which were poor (seemed restricted) and deffo weaker on right hand. Then some density hangs randomly through the night. All a bit unstructured...
T: nowt, maybe a few planks and brachialis curls.
Fri: Flew to Amsterdam, had a session at Beest Boulders. Fun, but a bit tired and found it a bit hard.
Sat: cycled/walked around town
Sun: More walks with family, couple of beers and food for GFs dad's bday.

Nice to be away. Not much hard training, but nice to not feel too injured.

[spidermonkey09]

M - AM conditioning; weighted pull ups 3x 3 +18kg, superset with wide Arnold Press. Then rings wide press ups & Ts and external rotations. Then aerocap; 3x 5 mins on 3 mins off, low pump.
M - PM walk 9.3km (to the pub)

Tu - rest, terrible night's sleep. Chest DOMS from rings work. Been a while since I was on these. PM 6.5km walk to the shops so 2nd half weighed down with a rucksack full of food.

W - lunchtime fingerboard session. First one arm hangs session (testing aside) in ages. 5s half crimp, Lattice edge, 4x straight arm and 4x 90' lock. Found the former nails and had to have 20kg off to do. Locks easier, started at 15kg off but last 2 upped to 17kg. Found the whole session really hard. Arms definitely a limiting factor more than fingers.

Th - Ilkley. Knackered from lack of sleep. Warmed up a bit slowly. Sorted all the sequences on Calf Traverse so hopefully that's nicely lined up for a future session.  6/7 goes at link up project. 2nd was best, pretty much matched my high point. Later on worked out a new way for the crux move which I think will be the way; means you can take the crucial hold in much more control. Quite glad James didn't do it if I'm honest, would really like to get it done!

F - lunchtime conditioning; one arm rows, bent over Ys, gym ball hamstring and core stuff.

Sa - pick up FB to start. Pinky and index monos, and middle 2. Plus 3x 6 weighted pull ups +13kg. Then down to Anston Stones. Bit of a humbling visit really. According to my training plan should have done a limit board session focusing on 1-3 move problems. Basically did that on rock. Tried Soul Crusher, Black Crow and Dark Art. Didn't do a single one of the hard moves on any of them but tried hard at least. Did a couple of easier things albeit not without difficulty. Think I'm well out of practice on this style!

Su - rest

Can't work out whether this is a high volume week or whether I'm just lazy! Do you warm up at all for the conditioning sessions or just smash straight into it? Ditto the lunch sessions; before or after you eat lunch?

My normal weeks are 3 sessions of fingerboard/wall in the week and then get out where possible at the weekend, if its wet do another session. Maybe there's scope for me to increase the load a bit.

[Fultonius]

My experiences differ to yours then. My best performances have been when I’m about 11 stone or a bit under so weighing in at 11.10 (the most Ive been in recent years around Xmas is 11.12) was a shock especially as I’d thought I’d lost weight on the trip and concerning as it takes me a long time to lose weight and I’m higher than normal for this time of year.

The 11.4-6 range is my target as it is sustainable and allows me drop to my (unsustainable) redpoint weight within a few weeks, for a few weeks.

Fair enough, if that works for you. How do you drop weight and keep energy levels up?  I'm obviously training a bit heavy this winter, which means I'll probably need to drop 2-3kg in the spring. I've never really tried to time some limited weight loss for a trip (if ever I've been heavy I've just done the young guy thing of eating less and training more, but that doesn't seem to work at 38!

I'm guessing you need to just reduce volume a bit and focus more on maintenance rather than gains?  How long over, 2-3 weeks?


 

[tommytwotone]

Goal: New (to me) Font 7a outdoors somewhere

Not a great week training-wise...busy at work, ate and boozed a bit too much, and had a weekend scuppered by kids' birthday parties on both days. One of the downsides of lockdown life ending IMO...I was enjoying having my weekends guaranteed free!

Climbing-wise, got to LSD on Thurs. Had a good thrash round a load of new stuff, did a couple of V5s but was out of juice pretty quick.

[Bradders]

M - AM conditioning; weighted pull ups 3x 3 +18kg, superset with wide Arnold Press. Then rings wide press ups & Ts and external rotations. Then aerocap; 3x 5 mins on 3 mins off, low pump.
M - PM walk 9.3km (to the pub)

Tu - rest, terrible night's sleep. Chest DOMS from rings work. Been a while since I was on these. PM 6.5km walk to the shops so 2nd half weighed down with a rucksack full of food.

W - lunchtime fingerboard session. First one arm hangs session (testing aside) in ages. 5s half crimp, Lattice edge, 4x straight arm and 4x 90' lock. Found the former nails and had to have 20kg off to do. Locks easier, started at 15kg off but last 2 upped to 17kg. Found the whole session really hard. Arms definitely a limiting factor more than fingers.

Th - Ilkley. Knackered from lack of sleep. Warmed up a bit slowly. Sorted all the sequences on Calf Traverse so hopefully that's nicely lined up for a future session.  6/7 goes at link up project. 2nd was best, pretty much matched my high point. Later on worked out a new way for the crux move which I think will be the way; means you can take the crucial hold in much more control. Quite glad James didn't do it if I'm honest, would really like to get it done!

F - lunchtime conditioning; one arm rows, bent over Ys, gym ball hamstring and core stuff.

Sa - pick up FB to start. Pinky and index monos, and middle 2. Plus 3x 6 weighted pull ups +13kg. Then down to Anston Stones. Bit of a humbling visit really. According to my training plan should have done a limit board session focusing on 1-3 move problems. Basically did that on rock. Tried Soul Crusher, Black Crow and Dark Art. Didn't do a single one of the hard moves on any of them but tried hard at least. Did a couple of easier things albeit not without difficulty. Think I'm well out of practice on this style!

Su - rest

Can't work out whether this is a high volume week or whether I'm just lazy! Do you warm up at all for the conditioning sessions or just smash straight into it? Ditto the lunch sessions; before or after you eat lunch?

My normal weeks are 3 sessions of fingerboard/wall in the week and then get out where possible at the weekend, if its wet do another session. Maybe there's scope for me to increase the load a bit.

Ha if anything that's a medium volume week, this week will be higher. I am generally doing a lot atm trying to stimulate some strength gains as I don't really respond to low volume.

Possible that the walking makes it sound like more than it is though? All the individual sessions are pretty short and sharp; e.g Monday was 45 mins or so, Wednesday was an hour, Friday was 30 mins, fingerboard before climbing on Saturday was 15 mins plus warm up and pull ups, etc. It's really not that much time! 

And yes definitely have to warm up! But generally doesn't take me long.

[shark]

Fair enough, if that works for you. How do you drop weight and keep energy levels up?

Generally by switching to low or no carbs, delaying breakfast until midday, skipping occasional meal if not particularly hungry and losing weight slowly (1-2lbs per week). Also eat jelly babies prior to hard goes on a project for a sugar spike.

 

[Fiend]

And yes definitely have to warm up! But generally doesn't take me long.

Details please!

[csl]

M - AM conditioning; weighted pull ups 3x 3 +18kg, superset with wide Arnold Press. Then rings wide press ups & Ts and external rotations. Then aerocap; 3x 5 mins on 3 mins off, low pump.
M - PM walk 9.3km (to the pub)

Tu - rest, terrible night's sleep. Chest DOMS from rings work. Been a while since I was on these. PM 6.5km walk to the shops so 2nd half weighed down with a rucksack full of food.

W - lunchtime fingerboard session. First one arm hangs session (testing aside) in ages. 5s half crimp, Lattice edge, 4x straight arm and 4x 90' lock. Found the former nails and had to have 20kg off to do. Locks easier, started at 15kg off but last 2 upped to 17kg. Found the whole session really hard. Arms definitely a limiting factor more than fingers.

Th - Ilkley. Knackered from lack of sleep. Warmed up a bit slowly. Sorted all the sequences on Calf Traverse so hopefully that's nicely lined up for a future session.  6/7 goes at link up project. 2nd was best, pretty much matched my high point. Later on worked out a new way for the crux move which I think will be the way; means you can take the crucial hold in much more control. Quite glad James didn't do it if I'm honest, would really like to get it done!

F - lunchtime conditioning; one arm rows, bent over Ys, gym ball hamstring and core stuff.

Sa - pick up FB to start. Pinky and index monos, and middle 2. Plus 3x 6 weighted pull ups +13kg. Then down to Anston Stones. Bit of a humbling visit really. According to my training plan should have done a limit board session focusing on 1-3 move problems. Basically did that on rock. Tried Soul Crusher, Black Crow and Dark Art. Didn't do a single one of the hard moves on any of them but tried hard at least. Did a couple of easier things albeit not without difficulty. Think I'm well out of practice on this style!

Su - rest

Can't work out whether this is a high volume week or whether I'm just lazy! Do you warm up at all for the conditioning sessions or just smash straight into it? Ditto the lunch sessions; before or after you eat lunch?

My normal weeks are 3 sessions of fingerboard/wall in the week and then get out where possible at the weekend, if its wet do another session. Maybe there's scope for me to increase the load a bit.

We need Gollum back in here, then you’ll feel really lazy

[Fiend]

Whatever happened to gollum?? Did he decide that the 20 mins of relative inactivity posting on Power Club was interfering with his training-for-training too much and disappear to fully focus on impeccable intensity??

[spidermonkey09]

Yeah I miss Gollum's weekly description of the punishment he put himself through. When I bought a bouldering pad off him he mentioned an Achilles injury so I'd imagine hes been rehabbing that.

Yeah, makes sense; presume you are eating lunch as soon as you finish those sessions then? I find myself taking the whole allocated lunch break to do a session most of the time by the time I've warmed up. Easy for them to drift towards an hour when I warm up properly, and if I don't get warm I'm not recruited properly, so its a tricky one.

I like the rings/TRX sessions but don't have any here, could definitely do weighted pull ups easily though as the big muscle groups take less to get going than fingers.

[csl]

Easy for them to drift towards an hour when I warm up properly, and if I don't get warm I'm not recruited properly, so its a tricky one.

My fingerboard warmup takes 10-15 minutes max. I do something every minute on the minute with increasing intensity. Generally it starts with scap. pullups or just engaging my lats, and then I stick some weighing scales under the fingerboard and go from 50% bodyweight up to hanging my target weight for 1-2 seconds - then I'm ready to go. By the time I'm done with the workout, whatever I put on for lunch is ready.