[James Malloch]

p.s judging the aerocap intensity seems to be the thing that people most consistently get wrong with endurance training.

My rule of thumb for aerocap training is that you shouldn't fail, but by the end of the workout you should really want (not need) to stop - i.e you could probably bust out one or two more sets, but you really don't want to.

This kind of works for all types of aerobic workouts, be it the more intense, shorter intervals you are doing to the "10 minutes on the wall" snooze-fests.

Thanks Stu, I definitely wanted to stop yesterday, though think I could have managed a few more reps - but they would have been a fight. I guess that means that, at the moment, I would probably fail to do 10 reps at this intensity, coming off somewhere around 8/9. But hopefully that will improve quickly. Or I could just do 50s on for the first few weeks to get up to the 10 reps level.

If lattice said the same as you quoted, but with 8 rather than 10, I think the intensity would have been perfect…

[Stu Littlefair]

If you've got 2-3 moves on the circuit where you're close to the floor, just use the floor for feet instead. That'll probably get it about right.

[User deactivated.]

Though it’s hard to get the level down much below that without a load of new bigger holds

I've got around 20 juggy tee nut holds that are sat around not doing anything as I bought a used set of around 100 holds to start my board. I'd swap them for a few smaller/harder holds in return (doesn't need to be same amount in return).

[Herbert]

Just step off, or put a foot on the ground for a bit. You can (CAN, but it's dull as fuck) do a decent aerocap routine on a fingerboard standing o the ground. I've done it on my 30* board standing on the ground and just working around various holds.

Sounds like you could bring your overall circuit difficulty down using the same holds just by the above ^^

I'm intrigued by the feet on ground fingerboard circuit approach. I'm being dim: is the idea to shuffle/piano play around the fingerboard for a set interval? Would throwing in some step up/downs onto a stool be worthwhile or missing the point?

[James Malloch]

Just step off, or put a foot on the ground for a bit. You can (CAN, but it's dull as fuck) do a decent aerocap routine on a fingerboard standing o the ground. I've done it on my 30* board standing on the ground and just working around various holds.

Sounds like you could bring your overall circuit difficulty down using the same holds just by the above ^^

I'm intrigued by the feet on ground fingerboard circuit approach. I'm being dim: is the idea to shuffle/piano play around the fingerboard for a set interval? Would throwing in some step up/downs onto a stool be worthwhile or missing the point?

Probably someone better placed to answer than me, but I think it is meant to stimulate blood flow through your forearms, without getting pumped, to help with recovery. Similar to staying on the wall for 10/20 mins without ever trying hard at all.

My physio (who did the training plan) also said this can be combined with using different grip, putting fingers in different slots, at different heights etc to get fingers used to being in different positions whilst doing something low intensity

[Herbert]

Thanks! That's helpful, so basically keep moving around without getting pumped to the point where I really want to stop, not have to stop.

[Stu Littlefair]

That's not really possible! If you weren't getting pumped, what would make you stop? 

Training aerocap on a fingerboard is just a way of replicating the same session without a wall. So if you were supposed to larn about on a climbing wall for ten minutes on, ten minutes off, you could do the same on a fingerboard.

Just put some weight on your fingers and move around the holds, just as if you were climbing. But keep your feet on the floor.

Aim to get just as pumped as you would in the similar session on the wall...

[Herbert]

Good point! I'm not sure what I was expecting... Some wholly new aerocap induced sensation/forearm umami perhaps. Thanks.

[Will Hunt]

That's not really possible! If you weren't getting pumped, what would make you stop? 

The crushing feeling of wasting the vanishingly short time we each have in this universe on aerocap?

[Stu Littlefair]

Yeah, but you get it back from the time saved not blowing redpoints.

[jamesturnbull97]

Bit late with this weeks, how's it Thurday already...
More time on rock again and not as much training again but that's the point of being a rock climber surely.

M. Skin still a bit thin from 5 days on in Font but couldn't resist heading out in the good weather. Went out to Caley to just do my usual easy circuit at Roadside from 5 - 7a. Decided to have a few pull ons to my ultimate nemisis Crystal Method, to my surprise I felt very close to sticking the move into the RH gaston, there was almost stopage in the hold which was a massive break through having never been close to moving up off the LH.
Back home did Pull up Pyramid @ +8.75kg, +13.75, +22.5, +28.75, +35
3x8 reps of Flys, Press ups and Archer rows on Ring plus negative flys on TRX.

W.
Morning: Weighted repeaters on bottom edges on BM1000. 6 sets of 6/4 @ +21.25kg
Afternoon: Caley with Will. Tried Ranieri's Reach for a little bit, didn't actually do either of the hard moves in the middle but was close enough to feel that I could. Feels like it would take a fair bit of work though.
Then went back to try CM after Mondays break through. First go pulled on a stuck the move into the RH for the first time ever but then frustratingly the LH pinged off the crimp as I was eying up the lip. Then the classic I'll do that next go tuned into going backwards for the next couple of hours, on the verge of giving up again I said one last go and then finally stuck the move agian and sealed the deal.
I've been trying this on and off since the start of 2015 so by far the longest I've ever tried something for despite it being multiples grade below plenty of stuff I've done! Made up to have finally done it.

T. Quick afterwork session to meet Bradder at Ilkley to have a go at the SDS link into Bernie. Got close getting into the high LH crimp just beneath the jugs, got my foot up few times to set up for the last move to them but didn't have the beans to go for it. Seems like it'll be a good sustained link, just need to wait for Nick to do it now.

Sat. Weighted repeaters on both bottom and top edges on BM1000. 6 sets of 6/4, 3x @ +21.25kg and 3x @ +2.5kg

[rginns]

Way behind with logging this. Playing catch up...
M - Good but short session on the board climbing mainly circuit 1 and 2 problems. Hard to get going though.
T - Fingerboard - endurance / regen -  7 on, 3 off, 8 sets, 71 hangs
W - rest
T - Slow start,and felt crap warming up and on the first few problems but managed to stick with it long enough. Eventually I got going and had the best session on the board for a long time. Climbed almost all established problems on the board and towards the end of the sesh managed the hard problem I failed on at the start. Clearly just needed enough time to warm up...19 - 1hr 30
F - Fingerboard - endurance / regen -  7 on, 3 off, 8 sets, 78 hangs
S - kids party
S - in-laws...