[Gus]

The Great Tribulation, E6 6c, Hipley Hill.

Fat fingers plus that top crack = Spankathon! Figured out a way crimping the edge of the crack but felt desperate!

Nice! Is the GT ok to dog up/work if you aren't sure you can get up it?

Yep it's do able. A long clip stick would help a lot! Plus there's a bolt belay to strip it!

[Ged]

I was beginning to wonder what on earth you could possibly do for work to start with Gus but you answered the question in the end!

Always a great thread for inspiration.

Top 3 Boulder Problems.
Appliance Friction 6b - Stanton In The Woods - A new venue to me that I scoped out on a rainy day a few years ago. Managed a weekend trip to the Peak in October this was the first problem we climbed.  No pulling required beautiful faith in friction gritstone smearing, a great way to reacquaint with the grit.

The Prow 7b - Leigh Tor - Dartmoor - Not granite! (Quartz veined tourmalinised hornfels apparently.).  Brilliant feature that requires some grunt to get up.  Didn't go down easily, really enjoyed the process of working it and sent it in November on my 5th session with the first snow flakes of the winter falling, satisfying!  (Worth seeking this one out if you're in the area and it's within your pay grade.  V. short walk in and slightly more skin friendly than the granite).
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWv2o5Uo9Jh/?utm_medium=copy_link
How to Spoon Feed Blue Rays 7b - Tintagel - Cornwall - A nemesis problem that I had tried first over 10 years ago. Not the most aesthetic line in the world but memorable for the fact that it went down with relative ease after all this time (apparently you can better at some things with age! ).

Top 3 Boulder FAs

Where The Wild Things Are 6b - Exmoor Coast - A hanging prow/arete in a remote place that feels quite airy. Climbed it in the golden light of a coastal sunset just beautiful.
https://www.instagram.com/p/COlFfQ7D6NA/?utm_medium=copy_link

Heroes In a Half Shell 7b - Exmoor Coast - A very fickle roof that isn't in condition often and is a long way from the road! A spell of good weather in the summer allowed me to start working problems here. This is the hardest so far, super steep and required a full repertoire of trickery to get up.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CSMXJiKj6Al/?utm_medium=copy_link
Bear Necessities 7b - Exmoor Coast - A hard pull to a slopey crimp and a flick to a sloper, the crux being holding the sloper and reeling in the swing without losing contact (easy moves beyond) . A boulderers boulder! 
https://www.instagram.com/p/CPGHznHjOU-/?utm_medium=copy_link

I didn't tie in during 2021 and it is the first year for a long time I didn't DWS either.

I had a brilliant road trip to Scotland with the family in the summer.  Managed one problem at Carrick Castle but all attempts at bouldering sessions were unsuccessful due to midges! (The weather was stunning for the 3 weeks we were up there so no complaints!)

I spent a bit of time running along the exmoor coast this summer, what a place! I'd love to hear more about your bouldering exploits. There must be so much to do along there. If you can get to it!

[BrutusTheBear]

 

I spent a bit of time running along the exmoor coast this summer, what a place! I'd love to hear more about your bouldering exploits. There must be so much to do along there. If you can get to it!

  Shhhhhhhhhhh Ged!  It truly is an incredible place and well off most people's radars due to easier to reach fleshpots further west/ south.  There really is nothing but countryside and huge inescapable cliffs between Lynmouth and Porlock (that is BIG stretch of coast!).  I have seen some stunning lines on secluded beaches but due to tide and/or the nature of the approaches/escapes they're not really viable for bouldering by conventional means.  A RIB would definitely be the way forwards.  Duly noted...It's long overdue a more comprehensive write up for bouldering and routes.
First on the list is the bouldering at Hurlstone Point nr Bossington, the main event being the overhanging and non-tidal wall that contains the route Raindancer.  A great little rain proof, sun trap training venue.  Here's a pic of Ruby P on the classic traverse https://www.instagram.com/p/ByYJhrkjCYz/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
Don't wish to hijack this thread though! Maybe I'll post some stuff up in the SW Bouldering thread.

[Neil F]

Okay, so I’ve never posted on this thread before, though I have read it for the last few years.  Whilst I’ve enjoyed the posts, I’ve also been conscious that it could so easily be seen as self-indulgent willy waving…  But some recent latecomers to this year’s party, and in particular Naomi’s comment on getting psyched reading other’s posts made me re-consider my natural reticence. And there’s a first time for everything, no?

Unfortunately the format doesn’t fully lend itself to my particular predilections, but I’ll have a go anyway…

Top three boulder problems, UK and Top three boulder problems, abroad

I last bouldered in 1983, so I’ll pass on that one

Top three trad routes/solos UK

The Prozac Link
Managed this in the second of two early year trips to Lewis.  Swung leads for what felt like the perfect route on the perfect day with the perfect partner.  Just ace!

Redshift, Gogarth
I’ve enjoyed so many Littlejohn routes over the years, but the middle pitch of this was something special.  Did it as a rope of 3 with my partner Clare and an old mate who has climbed on Red Wall more than most.  His characteristic non-stop commentary kept us entertained on our respective pitches, and we even had time to sneak in Television Route afterwards.  A memorable day…

Western Union, Iron Crag
This was something of a surprise, being rated a grade I’d not contemplated for some years.  And being a trad route, I wasn’t going to inspect it, whatever the prevailing ethics anticipated. Fortunately there was an alternative, whereby I could familiarise myself with the route beforehand, whilst retaining some semblance of self-imposed adventure.  And I could invent a new style at the same time…  I turned to the internet where I found one of Rob Matheson’s videos, where he climbs the route with an overdubbed commentary which pretty much tells you what you need to know. I watched it 4 or 5 times before climbing the route ground up, first go – perhaps the first ever Robpoint?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/western_union_e6_-_rob_matheson-2153

Top three sport routes UK

Hidden Sign, Castell y Gwynt
I’d got to the last hard move trying to on sight this back in 2007, and this year, with zero recollection of any of the moves, exactly the same thing happened. Fortunately my partner Mr Turnbull suffered the same fate, so we returned the following weekend to seal the deal.

Calimero, The Diamond
Again with Mr Turnbull, this unremarkable route proved to be just the tonic probably because of its mediocrity.  It sported cobwebs, disconcerting bolts, a few wet patches and no chalk whatsoever, and it was these unappealing characteristics which combined to give a really absorbing exercise in route finding, hold spotting and wet hold avoidance.  In fact it felt more challenging than the 7b to its right – It Came from Beneath the Sea – which we’d done just before.  It was also my first visit to The Diamond since 1993, and my first encounter with the masterstroke that is The Harrison High Wire.  Great stuff!

Cloak and Dagger, Moy Rock
Great to find some proper conglomerate in the UK, and an enjoyable afternoon being shown round by The Champ, who lives just an hour up the coast.  It also marked the end of a brilliant week in Scotland, which started on The Shelterstone (one of my favourite mountain crags in Britain).  Here we enjoyed perfect weather and found ourselves camping near to another contributor to this very thread… (Hi Andy!).  We then headed north to Brora, sampled the Caithness sea cliffs (definitely on the list for 2022) before heading home via Moy. 

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Ne Tirez pas sur L’ouvreur – Ailefroide
October and predictably Ailefroid is completely deserted.  Not surprising as the days are short, and before the sun hits the rock it is completely Baltic. But there is then a window when conditions are perfect, which for us lasted for half of this great 5-pitch route. The last 2 pitches were a chilly affair, but the memory of racing the sun up the brilliant 3rd pitch will stay with me for some time.

La Grandelle, Mont Dauphin
This is a fantastic wall of perfect conglomerate, not unlike a gently leaning, stamina climbing wall. We did the left hand 4 routes, and whilst not the hardest, La Grandelle was, for me, the best.

La 3rd Generation, Paroi des Lys
I loved this crag!  The splendid position gazing down on Le Ponteil from on high. I also loved the guidebook to this crag, just 2 pages – topo plus route list – describing, completely adequately, what could be a lifetime of adventures, at least for the visiting climber. Can’t wait to go back!

Top three new routes/problems put up

Often Back, Bosigran
Only one this year, but it was a goodie!  In 2017 I belayed Clare on the mouthful that is Zig Zag Optional Start A. At least I think that’s what she was on, because I’m not sure I ever looked, being instead captivated by the lovely arete to the right.  I traced the line of holds and wondered if they might link up?  But of course I never got round to abbing it, though it did stay in the back of my mind.  Fast forward to 2021 and with a bit more time on my hands, I did chuck a rope down it, and was immediately hooked!  I led it a couple of days later and thoroughly enjoyed the experience.  The name is a slightly esoteric play on words, though it fits right in with the theme adopted on Lower Raven Wall by Brian Mullan who has done some great little pitches down there.  There are a couple of pics of the FA here, if anyone cares...
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/bosigran-199/often_back-636044

[Fultonius]

Okay, so I’ve never posted on this thread before, though I have read it for the last few years.  Whilst I’ve enjoyed the posts, I’ve also been conscious that it could so easily be seen as self-indulgent willy waving…  But some recent latecomers to this year’s party, and in particular Naomi’s comment on getting psyched reading other’s posts made me re-consider my natural reticence. And there’s a first time for everything, no?

I think that's the best thing about this thread, and, actually, this forum in general, is that it really doesn't matter if you're sessioning a 6B problem or onsighting an 8c route, we want to hear YOUR story.

The Prozac Link is just such phenomenal ground in such a striking and I probably place, I defy anyone not to have a good story. We got it it rare mint conditions, so it was simultaneously cruisy and outstandingly adventurous. Real life affirming stuff.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Thanks for the link to the Western Union video Neil. That was ace 

Not so sure about the obscure South West esoterica mind 

No, seriously, good to see you're still active, unearthing the occasional gem. It's a beautiful spot.
Been thinking of moving down to Cornwall too. Been too long since I could say "Often Back".

[SA Chris]

That Bosi route looks ace, can't believe it's been overlooked.

[User deactivated.]

I’ve also been conscious that it could so easily be seen as self-indulgent willy waving… 

Isn't that why we all throw in a token route of reasonable quality that's 3 grades below our max? 

[Ross Barker]

I'd say it's the one time of the year we encourage willy-waving, so brag away!

[Duncan campbell]

That Bosi route looks ace, can't believe it's been overlooked.

Thought Neil had pipped Ondra for the 4th ascent of King Capella for a second! Or did he nip up BG? He lives nearby after all...?

[Fultonius]

I'd say it's the one time of the year we encourage willy-waving, so brag away!

What does a lady wave? Boob waving just sounds very odd!  I mean, she-wees all come in standard sizes, no?

Of course...we just need to turn to Sweden for an answer:  https://www.theguardian.com/world/2015/aug/01/sweden-girls-genitals-feminist-invention-snippa-vagina

[Fiend]

Flaps! (said with all due respect and approval)

[T_B]

Western Union, Iron Crag
This was something of a surprise, being rated a grade I’d not contemplated for some years.  And being a trad route, I wasn’t going to inspect it, whatever the prevailing ethics anticipated. Fortunately there was an alternative, whereby I could familiarise myself with the route beforehand, whilst retaining some semblance of self-imposed adventure.  And I could invent a new style at the same time…  I turned to the internet where I found one of Rob Matheson’s videos, where he climbs the route with an overdubbed commentary which pretty much tells you what you need to know. I watched it 4 or 5 times before climbing the route ground up, first go – perhaps the first ever Robpoint?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/categories/trad_climbing/western_union_e6_-_rob_matheson-2153

Crikey Neil, no growing old gracefully for you eh. That’s proper full fat Lakes E6. Dunno how you’re climbing that level without bouldering. Chapeau!

[Wood FT]

I’ve also been conscious that it could so easily be seen as self-indulgent willy waving… 

Isn't that why we all throw in a token route of reasonable quality that's 3 grades below our max? 

That is spot on.

[Fiend]

Some people still value the soul-enriching quality of the experience, you butts!

[BrutusTheBear]

I'm with Fiend on this.  The lower grade problems I included were genuinely well good, you cynical bunch of...

[jwi]

I'm with Fiend too. I really enjoyed the route nine grades below my max I included, and still thinks about it and talks about to people willing to listen. (I only talk about myself or climbing, and preferably both at the same time.)

[Wellsy]

Arguably the problem I'm happiest about in 2021 (Appliance Friction 6B) was five grades below my max and a moment of beauty for me

[BrutusTheBear]

Arguably the problem I'm happiest about in 2021 (Appliance Friction 6B) was five grades below my max and a moment of beauty for me

That was on my list too, pure class friction padding. 

[36chambers]

Top 3 spankings
Allakazam 6c, Kilnsey. Think this was the first route I tried at Kilnsey, got scared, rested on a rusty peg, probably off route, thought I was going to die. Absolute shambles. 
Vicious Streak 7C+, Caley. Moves felt easy, but then I obliterated my knuckles firing off it. A month, and many plasters, later came back and did the exact same thing, but worse, again. fml. 

I finally got back on Vicious Streak yesterday and did it third go, blood free. Allakazam, I'm coming for you!

[teestub]

Allez!

[Wellsy]

Arguably the problem I'm happiest about in 2021 (Appliance Friction 6B) was five grades below my max and a moment of beauty for me

That was on my list too, pure class friction padding. 

It's a brilliant problem. I also tried it late last year, on I think my third ever trip outdoors? Had about 50 goes, totally shut down. A year later, did it in a few goes. Lovely experience.

[andy moles]

We've got major plans for more trips up north, bouldering and sport, all recommendations greatly appreciated.

Goat Crag / Am Fasgadh. Best setting of a sport crag in Britain, and the routes are pretty amazing too, especially in the 7s to low 8s. A sun trap and another place where ticks are bad though, not the place to be when the bracken is up.

[andy moles]

Interesting to look back through my logbook. It was an unusual year for me, when I deviated from my usual patterns and proportions in climbing. I wonder if those changing trends will continue? I only left the country for the last four days of the year, so leaving the foreign parts out:

Top 3 Boulders

Spiderpig 7A, Nant y Fedw
Slabs are rarely my favourite, but this was a really lovely, fairly intimidating problem in a pretty hobbity nook, done with late November sunlight gilding the moss and the oak tree.

Comfortably Numb 7B+, Gideon Quarry
The trickiest thing I managed this year, during the late winter lockdown period and before getting a niggly finger. The wacky venue is the star here, though several of the problems are also class, and being able to walk from home made it a bit special too.

The Severed Ear 7A+, Manor Crag
My kind of thing, apart from the ouchy and slightly worrying crimping to get established on the slab. Shame you have to jump off!

Top 3 Sport

Cig-Arete, 7b, Rainbow Walls
I usually don't do well on slate (apart from on semi-bolted and softly graded E4s and E5s), so to flash this as (I think) my first of the grade in the UK was a pleasant surprise.

Toss, 6c, Creag nan Luch
Improbably stolen between showers during a cold and frustrating week, this was a really excellent (and pretty tricky) wall, one of the best 6s I've done in the UK.

The Terrible Thing, 8a, Breakwater Quarry
First 8a, always going to be a memorable one, and the top section of this is also particularly wild and excellent.

Top 3 Trad

Flawless LH, E6/7, Achmelvich
One of the most aesthetic lines in the country, climbed on the easy side! As far as I know the arete had only been climbed twice in 17 years, and I'd wanted to do it for ages. Managed a quick headpoint in very sketchy fashion - getting away with it by some improbable coupling of friction and desperation actually left me feeling a little humbled and cagey about trad for much of the summer.

Rusty Buckets, E3, Creag Rodha Mor
Just over on the other side of Loch Roe, I finally visited 'supercrag', nearest thing the mainland has to Mingulayan gneiss. In a year of doing far less conventional trad than normal, this was one of the things that stood out - immaculate, tricky, and in a stunning isolated spot. My Own Personal Mingulay afterwards was meant to be the main event but thanks to a combination of Gary Latter's topo and my own carelessness, that was more memorable for taking a winger off the neighbouring E6 and having to finish with a terminal pump!

The Spire, E4, Shelterstone
Not actually the most pleasant experience on the route - it was too cold, basically - but any of the big lines on the main bastion of the Shelterstone is going to be memorable. Camping on the plateau and swimming in crystal clear red granite pools...ahh!

Top 3 DWS

Scissor, 7a, Nant Gwrtheyrn
Great sustained climbing at just the right height! Got the tactics right this time, with a high tide coinciding with evening sun to burn the grease off and change the vibe in the zawn from dark and intimidating to glittering haven.

The Cauldron & Cod Tympani, 7a+, Berry Head
The two most fun aspects of DWS in a nutshell - sideways pumping close to the water, and supersteep monkeying.

Top 3 New
Probably the aspect of climbing I found most rewarding this year, so one from each genre:

Elephant in the Cwm, 7A, Snowdon Lady
Pretty amazing to find something this good at this grade unclimbed, given you can see the boulder from Pete's Eats!

The Red Sea, 7b/+, Breakwater Quarry
The first time I've equipped a new sport route, so memorable for that reason, but also satisfying to increase the route count of a handy venue by 50% with a fairly unique line.

Execution Crack, E3, Am Basteir
A route that would be *** on a gritstone edge, only situated just below the summit of an iconic peak. Again, amazing it hadn't been done, though going up it on-sight I was the unknowing beneficiary of Michael Barnard having cleaned it.

Top Spanking

Crazy Horses, E3, Craig y Forwyn
I've often said E3 6a is a good grade to get spanked by. They're just E5s with overhead gear. My hypothesis was reaffirmed on this. Honorable mention for backing off an HVS pitch on Glyder Fach (admittedly without really trying, it just looked like hard work).

[NaoB]

We've got major plans for more trips up north, bouldering and sport, all recommendations greatly appreciated.

Goat Crag / Am Fasgadh. Best setting of a sport crag in Britain, and the routes are pretty amazing too, especially in the 7s to low 8s. A sun trap and another place where ticks are bad though, not the place to be when the bracken is up.

Wow, that looks ace, never heard of it before! It's VERY far north.... Which is probably why it has never appeared on my radar. The guidebook describes it as an "all year round venue". When would you say is the best time to visit for dry rock, not too hot or cold temps and minimal midges? Would April / May be about right?