[Fultonius]

Honourable mentions for "If Six Was Nine" at Dumbuck and "Stingray" and "Dorado" at The Fin - my first sport routes of the year where I allowed myself to push into 'falling above a bolt' territory. Keen for more Scottish sport this year for sure.

You're based down South right? You must be the only person in history psyched to travel for Scottish sport!  Dumbuck is only 25 mins drive for me and I've done 2 routes there....   Neither of which were If 6 was 9 (should that not be if 6 were 9??)  I saw a comment saying the bolts needed work. I've now got a drill and been meaning to tidy up a few routes at some point, so I should really get on it.

Give me a shout if you need a belay, I should be fairly available this year midweek if things go to plan. Also keep to get to tunnel wall and start figuring out Axiom.

P.S. went through a similar dad thing 6 years ago (maybe 7 now...?) and it does get easier but I still miss the old bugger!

[NaoB]

Honourable mentions for "If Six Was Nine" at Dumbuck and "Stingray" and "Dorado" at The Fin - my first sport routes of the year where I allowed myself to push into 'falling above a bolt' territory. Keen for more Scottish sport this year for sure.

You're based down South right? You must be the only person in history psyched to travel for Scottish sport!  Dumbuck is only 25 mins drive for me and I've done 2 routes there....   Neither of which were If 6 was 9 (should that not be if 6 were 9??)  I saw a comment saying the bolts needed work. I've now got a drill and been meaning to tidy up a few routes at some point, so I should really get on it.

Give me a shout if you need a belay, I should be fairly available this year midweek if things go to plan. Also keep to get to tunnel wall and start figuring out Axiom.

P.S. went through a similar dad thing 6 years ago (maybe 7 now...?) and it does get easier but I still miss the old bugger!

Blame ukc for the grammar!

If down south means below the Scottish border.... We're based in Lancashire, so it's about 3 1/2 hours drive. But we have relatives in Glasgow, which makes the journey more appealing. Honestly, we really enjoyed Dumbuck, the approach was very entertaining jungle bashing but the rock quality and shapes were stunning.

We've got major plans for more trips up north, bouldering and sport, all recommendations greatly appreciated.

[Fultonius]

I see!  That makes more sense with the family connection. And yes, South of the border, even if you're "Northern" by the usual definition, is what I was meaning.

Obviously the sport/bouldering at Dumbarton is also good. Tunnel wall is only 1hr 40 and, once you get past, Dumbarton the rest of the drive is through nice scenery.

Is the old rope still there at Dumbuck? We cut a bit of a better approach a few years back, but I'm guessing it's lost in the jungle now. One big tip is be very careful with the ticks - a few known Lyme's cases from bites around there.

There's not a lot else in short hitting distance for sport. Cambusbarron has some really nice single pitch trad in the E3-E5/E6 range.

[NaoB]

The rope is still there, albeit a bit grotty. We tried two different approaches (up the ropes from below and also across the fields from the housing estate), both of which were tricky to navigate, but the jungle hill seemed better on balance.

You're right about the ticks - Jordan got his very first tick there, thankfully my uncle had a proper tick remover and we got it off promptly.

[SA Chris]

I'm surprised you came all this way to climb at the Fin! Hopefully you did some other stuff in the area and didn't just sample the bright lights of Findon?

[NaoB]

We checked out Red Wall Quarry and Sportlethen but mostly climbed at the Fin. We really rated it! Amazing angles, quiet, great fishing / chilling / swimming spot.

We also want to visit Orchestra Cave but it was full on bird season when we were there in the summer. Will have to go back in spring or autumn.

Dunkeld and the camel are on the list too.

[Fultonius]

I'm surprised you came all this way to climb at the Fin! Hopefully you did some other stuff in the area and didn't just sample the bright lights of Findon?

Does it ever make you think we might be a bit overly negative about what we have in our local vicinity?

It's got me thinking about Dumbuck for the spring 

[SA Chris]

Nah, Findon is a hole!

TBH, I know that if you get it in good nick The Fin has some amazing climbing, but still don't think it's a patch on some of the sport crags down south, there isn't much there. Better trad and mountain routes nearby. Have you got Jules Lines' new Ballater Guide yet? Has got me a wee bit psyched for some trad, and there has been some new sports stuff developed on the coast near me.

[webbo]

So the best of 2021.
I didn’t set any goals as I find I get more obsessed than is healthy.
Only think I did want to achieve was to get a board built having been without one of a year. Managed to build it myself at the end of January.
I climbed out side 10 times and may have done a 7A+ and a 6C+.
I did 8 fingerboard sessions and 54 weight training sessions.
I went to climbing wall 3 times.
I used the turbo trainer 14 times.
I cycled 5,392 miles in rides from 14 miles to 150 miles.
I climbed on my board 137 times.
I also lived long enough to receive my state pension.
I didn’t break myself.
Whoops forgot to include spankings.
An arête on the Honister boulders that I couldn’t do as I couldn’t get my toe on a hold due to my arthritic hip.
Walking for 45 minutes with 2 pads and failing to find an obscure boulder on the NY moors. Going back the following week finding it but failing to do anything as it was in full sun with no breeze.

[sherlock]

Walking for 45 minutes with 2 pads and failing to find an obscure boulder on the NY moors. Going back the following week finding it but failing to do anything as it was in full sun with no breeze.
[/quote]
That sounds familiar.
As a matter of interest which boulder webbo?

[webbo]

Daleside I think. I found it by looking at the satellite picture and counting how many shooting butts    I need to walk past.
I haven’t rushed back.

[sherlock]

Cheers and duly noted.

[Gus]

Best thread ever as per usual! Some great stuff on here already, the stories always make me chuckle and the psyche is infectious!!! For the first time in a long time, climbing took a back seat over work commitments, but it's an easy trade when work involves fake fighting, shooting people/ getting shot and jumping around like a maniac!
As such it's nice to look back and realise that I did get some stuff done, and was really really fun!
Keep 'em coming people!!

Top three boulder problems, UK

Faith RH, 7a, Roche Abbey
Ace multi activity day that started with skiing at the Norfolk arms with a great crew, followed by a quick drive out for a lovely sunny solo bouldering session. Who needs Chamonix!!! Think I went kickboxing in the evening too! Love big days!

Dish Grab, 6b+, Roaches
Had a lovely trip over to the mutherland in the autumn, with obligatory and always entertaining catch up and reminisce with Mark S and Andi T. Basically climbed on every metre of dry rock, and realised that even though I named and graded this problem, I’d never actually done it!!! Reminded me of getting a package through the post from Grimer whilst writing the Roaches guide with the cover letter saying “if you don’t know a name or grade, make it up… YOU HAVE THE POWER!!”

Unthinkable, (Shoreditch Boulder), 7a
The Shoreditch and Hackney boulders really saved my bacon at the start of the year when I was working down in London loads and having COVID tests that last 2 seconds but leave you in London with nothing to do, no gyms or climbing walls open, until the next day. Was expecting these boulders to be a bit naff but they’re absolutely perfect and would be good blocks of rock anywhere in the world. Mental!!

Top three boulder problems, abroad
VOID!!

Top three trad routes/solos UK

10 O’Clock Saturday Morning, E7 6c, Nesscliffe
Obligatory Nesscliffe trip early season,  I flipping love that place. Meant to to do this for ages but always did other routes. Was hilarious belaying Gibb when he pulled a hold off the top out, by my own admission I’d taken my eye off the ball and thought he was in. He went miles and we laughed for about ten minutes straight.

Helmut Schmidt, E6 6b, Electric Quarry
Ooooooooh! I had a great experience on this. All work and no climbing makes for some very entertaining scenes as it turns out. Didn’t help that it was in the boiling sun! I had two separate moments on this where it went through my head “shit, I’m off” and actually momentarily mentally and physically gave up, but just sensed I had about 1% more to give somehow, the sort of feeling that you probably only get from a lot of climbing over a lot of years. Reckon you could have heard the sound of me slapping the last break over in Curbar.

Majolica, E3 5c, Beeston
One of a selection of great climbs on a very entertaining and eventful visit to Beeston Tor where we totally screwed up the approach and ended up vertical bushwhacking through face high nettles with 70% body stings including in our mouths, ears and on our faces! I had a Katana sword in the van that I joked at the car park about bringing along. Totally should have taken it!!! You live and learn.

Top three sport routes UK

The Day of The Long Knives, 7b+, Rhubarb Buttress
Class route at a new venue!! Reachy and tough!

Spare Rib, 7b, Portland
Medium hard moves, swimming and jumping in the soup, followed by lush pints at the Cove House Inn. What’s not to like??

My Body is a Stemple, 7b, Deep Rake
Thought this was absolutely brilliant and left me with the mistaken impression that I was quite fit despite not climbing much, then promptly jetted off to Kalymnos, turns out that theory doesn’t work when the routes are tilted 30-45 degrees!!

Top three routes Kalymnos

Armati Sikati, 7b+, Sikati Cave
10 Years since I’d been to Skate cave! Why oh why??? Absolutely magnificent venue and got the full experience on this on sighting it with minimal fitness.

Commandante Jorge, 7b+, Telendos
It’s always ace going to new venues with loads to go at, didn’t find this the soft tough everyone seems to think, has something broken (looked like there might have been?) anyway, class route, made better by being ferried back by the boat Captain that the Route’s named after!!

Tzivaeri, 7b, Secret Garden
One to do when you’ve done everything else you can do at the crag! Spiiiiiicy hard boulder sequence right off the deck. Another climber was keen for me to leave the clips in for him, but after watching me on it, I could hear him and his partner conversing in a language foreign to me, but just know that they were saying “f**k that!” So I obviously didn’t sell it. Sure enough, he had me strip it after!

Top three DWS


Escobar, E4 6b (for the fall), Lulworth.
Never done this one, slipped off it first go and halfway through the air I’d obviously picked up dome habits through work and for some reason decided to do a “stunt fall” onto my mid back. It’s not a high route but the splash was like a torpedo going off. Won’t be doing that again, especially from any higher!!

Lower Than Whale Shit, 6c+, Lulworth
Classic low tide DWS esoteria and quite tough!

Sugar Daddy, 7a, Deep Zawn.
Second session of the day catching the 2nd tide, though I’d check out “Deep Dawn” which is a fantastic low venue which is great for jumping off! Still couple of projects there if anyones keen?

Top Spankings

Totem Pole, 7c+, Telendos.
Apparently quite soft touch, but not after scuba diving down to 35metres previously. Felt like a shadow of myself!

Honourary Boux
Well named, had a good go but hanging my heavy carcass off those pockets felt a bit much!!
The Great Tribulation, E6 6c, Hipley Hill.

Fat fingers plus that top crack = Spankathon! Figured out a way crimping the edge of the crack but felt desperate!

Top 3 Jobs..

BBC series about the formation of the Special Air Service: 
This is gonna be absolutely class. Did some work getting completely brassed up by the notorious “Paddy Mayne” in the iconic scene where he massacres a whole German air base bar.

Weird series about military witch hunters:
 This included getting trained by a legendary and controversial ex-SAS dude who was an absolute hoot, getting set on fire, and driving main actors in a suave SUV at warp speed across a field, after which they looked suitably rattled so I knew I’d done a good job.

Stunt Doubling Bollywood’s biggest action star:
 Not that he needed it, he’s an absolute ninja and much more talented than me (if a bit more breakable and not as expendable)
 Basically involved setting up and testing his stunts to make sure he didn’t die, followed by throwing myself off a roof with my hair dyed black, wearing stylish specs and a suave suit!

[BrutusTheBear]

I was beginning to wonder what on earth you could possibly do for work to start with Gus but you answered the question in the end!

Always a great thread for inspiration.

Top 3 Boulder Problems.
Appliance Friction 6b - Stanton In The Woods - A new venue to me that I scoped out on a rainy day a few years ago. Managed a weekend trip to the Peak in October this was the first problem we climbed.  No pulling required beautiful faith in friction gritstone smearing, a great way to reacquaint with the grit.

The Prow 7b - Leigh Tor - Dartmoor - Not granite! (Quartz veined tourmalinised hornfels apparently.).  Brilliant feature that requires some grunt to get up.  Didn't go down easily, really enjoyed the process of working it and sent it in November on my 5th session with the first snow flakes of the winter falling, satisfying!  (Worth seeking this one out if you're in the area and it's within your pay grade.  V. short walk in and slightly more skin friendly than the granite).
https://www.instagram.com/tv/CWv2o5Uo9Jh/?utm_medium=copy_link
How to Spoon Feed Blue Rays 7b - Tintagel - Cornwall - A nemesis problem that I had tried first over 10 years ago. Not the most aesthetic line in the world but memorable for the fact that it went down with relative ease after all this time (apparently you can better at some things with age! ).

Top 3 Boulder FAs

Where The Wild Things Are 6b - Exmoor Coast - A hanging prow/arete in a remote place that feels quite airy. Climbed it in the golden light of a coastal sunset just beautiful.
https://www.instagram.com/p/COlFfQ7D6NA/?utm_medium=copy_link

Heroes In a Half Shell 7b - Exmoor Coast - A very fickle roof that isn't in condition often and is a long way from the road! A spell of good weather in the summer allowed me to start working problems here. This is the hardest so far, super steep and required a full repertoire of trickery to get up.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CSMXJiKj6Al/?utm_medium=copy_link
Bear Necessities 7b - Exmoor Coast - A hard pull to a slopey crimp and a flick to a sloper, the crux being holding the sloper and reeling in the swing without losing contact (easy moves beyond) . A boulderers boulder! 
https://www.instagram.com/p/CPGHznHjOU-/?utm_medium=copy_link

I didn't tie in during 2021 and it is the first year for a long time I didn't DWS either.

I had a brilliant road trip to Scotland with the family in the summer.  Managed one problem at Carrick Castle but all attempts at bouldering sessions were unsuccessful due to midges! (The weather was stunning for the 3 weeks we were up there so no complaints!)

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Hi Brutus.

Great to see someone blogging from the north Devon/Somerset area.

I did a lot of prospecting around there a *few years ago. Was living in Ilfracombe.

Great to hear about activity on that beautiful stretch of coastline. I'd be quite interested in maybe travelling down when it's a bit warmer - maybe to have another look at some of the stuff round the back of hangman (Gritstone Wall area). Don't know how much development it's had. I may post up a couple of pics.

These year end round-ups are a great source of inspiration 

* 38 f'ing years ago

[BrutusTheBear]

Hi Brutus.

Great to see someone blogging from the north Devon/Somerset area.

I did a lot of prospecting around there a *few years ago. Was living in Ilfracombe.

Great to hear about activity on that beautiful stretch of coastline. I'd be quite interested in maybe travelling down when it's a bit warmer - maybe to have another look at some of the stuff round the back of hangman (Gritstone Wall area). Don't know how much development it's had. I may post up a couple of pics.

These year end round-ups are a great source of inspiration 

* 38 f'ing years ago

. Cheers Dave, It's really tricky to piece together what has been done on the Exmoor Coast because climbing activity is so sporadic and the people climbing here are few.  There's no contemporary guidebook coverage either.  I have recently been  put in touch with Martin Crocker who has a love for this stretch of coast too.  We are going to share info and cobble something together. So really interested to see your pics. There is actually some OK bouldering very close to/in Ilfracombe.  The new stuff I have done is on the very remote stretch of coast between Foreland Point and Porlock. Give me a holler if you make it down here.
I love this thread because it inspires to visit different places and highlights problems/routes that have given others good experiences.

[Adam Lincoln]

Don’t normally bother with this either but have some time to kill in Spain on a rest day.

This year work got in the way again, with timings. After the last 2 years though had to make it a priority as you never know when it might dry up with the way Covid has been.

Top 3 Trad routes.

Didn’t do much but what I did was all fun and memorable.

Easel-EE - E7 6c - Rhoscolyn.

Did straight after the other E7 at the crag. Easel EE was harder and more sportier than its neighbour so could relax more and enjoy the moves more, and the warm orange rock.

Dinosaur - E5 6a - Gogarth

Great route. Not the best connies. First trad route of year which was exciting. E5’s on main cliff are always top class.

Meirionnydd - E7 6b - Moelwyn Bach

Early repeat of Caffs new route on an amazing blank looking wall. Straight up the middle. Good gear just over halfway and steady run out climbing to top. Crux being a slightly bold start protected by micros. The perfect micro hard route.

Top 3 Sport Routes

Mandela 8a+ish - Kinsey

What a route. Out there. Pumpy. So much history.

Full Tilt - 8b - Kilnsey

Not the best route but was memorable for other reasons. Pretty much my first 8b in a day. Tried briefly after doing the thumb but didn’t make much progress a few days earlier. It also opens up True North which was also a brief project this year. Sadly with a trip away with work looming the excellent side partner of Full on action was made priority. Also the scenes on North Buttress make everything better. Seeing Northern lights getting endless traffic, psyche was high from everyone. Good scenes.

It Takes Glue To Tango - 7c+ - Devils Gorge

Best route down here. And also one of the later additions. Very Euro in style and memorable finish

Top 5 Blocs

Lockdown Fatigue - 7c+ - Mallory Boulder

End of a perfect bluebird day in Wales. Had already done The Cairn and was totally knackered. Walking down in almost dark JB decided to try this. I had cooled down already and was in going home mode. JB said it was my style. I get tempted. Decide to have one go. Flash it with some funky beta. Out beta’d Caffs FA which was also rather cool.

The Prow - 7c - Carrock

A day rescued with awful weather. Driving up we didn’t think we would get anything done. This was a bonus at the end of the day. Great moves and great line. Should have flashed as didn’t read guide and being a proper sit. So got to do it twice!

The Cairn (Crouch) - 7c+ - Mallory Boulder

Again, that bluebird day. Perfect connies. Scary bloc, amazing moves. Had given up on proper sit so tried to rescue day with crouch start. Pulled out of bag at end of day. Then almost did the sit few goes later. Reminder that no matter how tired you are always have that last go!

[Johnny Brown]

Another year older, an even greater struggle to remember where I've been and what I’ve done. As the chains of adulthood weigh ever heavier, less a list of highlights than the highlights being managing to get out at all.

31st Jan - Thick End of the Wedge. After a frustrating fourth session on this in Dec I out it on the back burner for a bit and came back to it. Went ok and felt well worth 8A vis Cofe’s detailed sequence but a bit frustrated to realise more efficient beta was available.
20th April - Best day out of the year with the old crew reunited for a day of Great Wolfrey deathballing. It was a bit crimpy and my stamina was lacking, so struggled to keep up but finally managed to get up Little Red Riding Hood amongst others. Again, not the most satisfying ascent due to being last up and far too nearly dropping the topout for comfort, and the repeated lobs upset my back which has been good for the last few years. But at least I climbed the crux well. Much as I like a pad stack, a lead with two of runners would be my recommended approach for this.
Highlight of May was a weekend at Gogarth in Jase’s van. Almost deserted due to iffy weather but got up a bunch of E2s and 3s, highlights being leading the chimney pitch on Rat Race which felt fine despite a long absence from such terrain, a moon-booted wander round the hut circles at dusk and the final hanging belay on Resolution direct.
A couple of good days with the crew down the Churnet, mainly got spanked but great to get down there again.
Had a couple of days sport climbing in July and managed a quick redpoint of Cordless Madness 7c with some good fighting on the top section. OTOH Cry of Despair never gets any more feasible.
Lots of good days out with the Scrittlegrubers, Bamford, Baslow, Derwent, Widdop and Grinah highlights. A few sessions soloing at Stanage like the old days. Still got at least bits of it....
Even a couple of top-roping highlights for the haters - seconded London Wall clean and steady, flashed On the Rocks after Jase had trashed my rope failing.
Lots of other little wins - work was fine, mood was mostly ok, did an actual paid photography job and had a brill family holiday boating on the Broads the first week lockdown was lifted, plus a great year hobby-wise including building another telescope (more of a life-scope this time, 14”er), scoring some great ebay deals on microscopes etc, discovering loads of microbes. Excited to investigate lots more stuff this year inc archaeoastronomy and benchmarks, and getting to The Roaches more.

[ashtond6]

The Great Tribulation, E6 6c, Hipley Hill.

Fat fingers plus that top crack = Spankathon! Figured out a way crimping the edge of the crack but felt desperate!

Nice! Is the GT ok to dog up/work if you aren't sure you can get up it?

[mrjonathanr]

Not much to write home about but wild camping and climbing on Scafell's East Buttress is worth remembering.

As is the surprising moment my mate shouted down 'I'm so pumped!' on the 4th (4c) pitch on Gogarth. Turns out I'd hopped onto the wrong belay ledge at the top of the 3rd pitch and he was now on Resolution Direct (E2 5b), quite a step up from the VS romp he was expecting. This meant my traverse right from the last belay did not take me up Gogarth but across an unclimbed wall covered in fur, past Achilles and eventually exiting via Diogenes. Entertaining, but not recommended.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Hi Brutus.

Great to see someone blogging from the north Devon/Somerset area.

I did a lot of prospecting around there a *few years ago. Was living in Ilfracombe.

Great to hear about activity on that beautiful stretch of coastline.
* 38 f'ing years ago

. Cheers Dave, It's really tricky to piece together what has been done on the Exmoor Coast.. I have recently been  put in touch with Martin Crocker who has a love for this stretch of coast too.  We are going to share info and cobble something together. So really interested to see your pics. There is actually some OK bouldering very close to/in Ilfracombe. 
I love this thread because it inspires to visit different places and highlights problems/routes that have given others good experiences.

I'd better keep my mouth shut for a little while then! I was wondering if he was still active. The rock on the Gritstone Wall around the back of Hangman is pretty good, with some great lines. Belays are tricky without stakes etc. I'll pm you, instead of blocking this thread    Hi to Martin 

[Hoseyb]

Lockdown Fatigue - 7c+ - Mallory Boulder

End of a perfect bluebird day in Wales. Had already done The Cairn and was totally knackered. Walking down in almost dark JB decided to try this. I had cooled down already and was in going home mode. JB said it was my style. I get tempted. Decide to have one go. Flash it with some funky beta. Out beta’d Caffs FA which was also rather cool.

Glad you enjoyed these blocs, it's special up there in the sun in winter. The block at the end of the Quack Crack bloc used to lean against the wall when caff did it. Means the extension is up for grabs! (Or full extension starting from Minnesota Loon)

[jamesturnbull97]

A little overview as some of the stuff I was able to get up last year, could have put a lot more in most of the catagories but tried to keep it relatively concise for a change.

Top Boulders
Didn't boulder abroad at all so all UK based this year

Grit
Omega 8A - Chevin: Had a great few sessions on this boulder doing Like a Hurricane and this. Was great to spend so time figuring this out with Dan and Will and bring to light a bloc that had slipped under the radar for many years.
Nothings Safe 7C - Caley: One the same theme of uncovering problems that never got done here's another. Sat in the middle of roadside but never seen anyone on it. Spent a day getting filthy cleaning a thick carpet off the top and another trying to figure out how on earth to get off the deck. A very satisfying process.
The Chieftain 7? - Earls Seat: Two of my favourite stlyes of climbing highball and technical slab. Simply one of the best.

Not Grit
L’Apparramarra Assis 7c - Surprised View: One of those in vogue problems from the spring. Had some very nice unique movement and lovely rock.
The Matador 7c+ - Attermire: Yorkshire doesn't have much limestone bouldering but this one very much makes up for that.  Spent ages trying to do it with Bradders' sequence before sacking it off for something completely different and doing the classic and falling off the finish jugs. Had to go back a couple of days later the morning before heading to Greece to finish it off.

Top Sport Routes
Caught the sport climbing bug again in the autumn after a few years away from clipping bolts.

UK
Only did 2 routes at home but one of them as very good.
Mescalito 7c+ - Malham: First trip back to Malham since 2018 so was nice to get up something. Going back to that style was a bit of shock to the system. Suffered from some serious hold blindness to start off but managed to get up this in a couple of goes with some good beta from Jim.

Abroad (Greece)
Did two trips to Leonidio and Kyparissi. Once for a week in September to have a chilled trip and do some mileage and then again in November for 3 weeks to get stuck into some stuff.

Advocatus Diavolo 8a - Babala: One of the best sport routes I've done anywhere. A technical lower wall leads to the main event of 2 perfect paralell drainpipes, I don't think I've ever done so many drop knees on a route let alone consecutively. The only thing that would have made it better is if I didn't fall off the top on the onsight.
Zeybreak 7c+ - HADA: A real maze of tufas and kneebars with a heartbreaker big move on some crimps at the end of a 40m mission. Pleased to have flashed it but definitley didn't make in look as easy as John's Swiss mate who cruised it just before.
Rainbow Warrior 8b+ - Nifada: It's hard to not but the hardest stuff on one of these rounds ups as you always get attached to them. Bouldery and a bit weird even managed to use a hand jam at one stage, enjoyed to process and good to see a return to some hard sport routes.
Pig in a Roof 8b - Twin Caves: An area classic but luckily managed to find it on a quiet day. Couldn't get a couple of the key knees to fit to just went for some front on burl. Again pleased to have got up something hard in a session.

Trad Routes
Did one day of Trad on the grit this year. During my phase of cleaning up old/forgetten/esoteric gems in the spring I put a big shift in to unearth the Beanstalk Buttress at Thruscross which is host to a few brilliant highballs and micro routes. All between E4 & 6 and probably not that big font numbers they're all pretty safe with some pads and a couple of cams. Go get to them before nature reclaims it!

Top Spankings
Satellite Boulder: Put a couple of sessions into Under a Full Moon and could barely do individual moves, just feels utterly nails at 7c+ but it can't be that bad as Footwork made it look piss  After that the logical thing to do is try the harder bloc next to it! To my surpised I got on much better with Statis Interupted but I guess that's because it's much more basic crimping. I got really close on my first session but many split tips and sessions late in got too hot and I had to walk away.
Real Slim Shady - Earl Crag: A brilliant new line from Olly. Did the original to the break in a couple of goes but couldn't for the life of me figure out a way to do the penultimate move of the top section,could climb from the ground to it every time but never did that top move even in isolation. A rare senario where it's harder for the tall unless you're used to putting your foot in your armpit off bad crimps. Franco maybe?
My Little Fingers: Had splits in the second joints in a least one of my pinkies since October with training to go back to Greece. I think a conbination at Board climbing, FBing and Tufa climbing I've not climbed on any really small holds so I guess the way my fingers sit on holds around one pad must just nail my little fingers. Been alot more on top of sanding, razorblading and moisturising recently which has helped, even manage to climb without tape on them for one session this week but it didn't last long as one splt again yesterday. 

[T_B]

2021 was a year of two halves. Productive spring and early summer, then only 10 outdoor sessions after the summer holidays with not many top outs…
 
Peak Bouldering:
Pinch Punch, Bradley and Birdsong RH
In March. I couldn’t get the Birdsong knee bar to work in a session, but these were good consolation prizes on a rare day last year when I felt strong.
Sick Arete. In late June. Gave it a good scrub. Highball 7a. Nice moves and setting. And it’s only a 20-minute/1.5Km walk in.
 
Non-Peak Bouldering
Rob’s Wall, Eskdale. Bit of a softie for lank-meisters. The rock was cold, thankfully.
Occam’s Razor, Honister. Perfect weather at Easter. Maybe my favourite problem of the year, as I really didn’t think I was going to be able to do it at first, then managed to piece it together and get it in the bag just as Rach/kids were sat in the car ready to head home.
Days Go By, 7b+, Kishorn Boulder. Up in Scotland at May Bankie. This is proper class. Basically as good as owt in Font – knacky compression on perfect stone.
 
Peak Trad – grit
Master’s Edge. Say no more. Probably could’ve done it in a session, but it snowed. Came back and it was warm but dispacted without issue. Like quite a few grit routes it was one that I’d saved to try GU, but that ship has sailed for E7s!
Beau Geste. I fell off it the previous November. Got a team together and managed to somehow not fluff getting the wire in (didn’t dare do it without). Once it was in and my shoulder hadn’t exploded, I could relax. It’s the best ‘hard grit’ route I’ve done.
Mensa, E6, on-sight. Really had to hang in there then fully commit, then it started hailing just as I topped out. Felt like a proper climber.
 
Peak Trad – Lime
Flight of Icarus. Old Nadin route slightly spoilt by the bolts on Celebration/Minos. Cleaned it up and headpointed. Nice, techy climbing. Went back with Dave Mus and told him he’d flash it, which he did just as… Nadin (who lives in the far North of Scotland) turns up at the base and says to me “What’s that route?”
Ninth Life. Headpoint. My lead that day. We don’t need to bolt everything on Peak limestone. This is a nice line with good climbing and really bold. It would be a completely forgettable 7b.
Piranha. Have looked at this wall so many times trying to spot the holds. No doubt on-sighted regularly back in the ‘80s but I gave it a clean and headpointed. Fun.
 
Sport climbing
Marlina, Dunkeld. I convinced the family that Dunkeld looked like a nice place to break the journey south travelling back from Torridon. Chances of Rach belaying me on Rat Race seemed very slim. After some spotting her on the bouldering and tentative badgering maybe she’d belay me on Marlina? Then, I just though f*ck it and asked some dude who had his clips in one of the lines if he wouldn’t mind giving me a belay? Anyway, I knew I’d either do it or fall off and that would be it. Chuffed to get the sequence right near the top for the o/s.
Salar, WCJ. Scraped an 8a. I’ve actually tried this a few times before o’er the years. It’s not an easy link for some reason, even with go-go-gadget arms.
Ground Zero, Lorry Park. Great climbing and a hand jam. No wonder this place is popular.
 
Running/races
Beinn Eighe loop. Perfect morning in Torridon with no-one around. Had planned to do Liathach but it was very windy.
Welsh 3000ers. August. 52k/4000m/12.5hrs. Perfect day.
Clowne Half. I enjoyed a road race and paced it well! What a surprise.

[Eddies]

Top Boulders
Last winter was a bad one weather wise; not many new ticks for me. But I did have one good day at Higgar Tor with a couple of mates, where i was the first up 'Witness the Gritness' a brilliant 7A+. Then repeated 'Piss' 7B first go, twice, using two different methods before doing 'Hemline' 7A+ second go and then 'Shit' 7B+ first go.
In April I climbed 'T-Crack' 7B after trying a couple of times over the past ten years i decided it needed putting to bed and on the second session of this year i sent it on my own in perfect conditions mid week without the cheaty heek-hook or chip grabbing beta!