[reeve]

Essay-time here, soz. Great reading everyone else’s. Some places I haven’t heard of which look great, really making me excited for this year!

Top three boulder problems, UK
Monobulge, Burbage North – normally not a fan of compression, but how could anyone not love this? Heels, cool holds, long enough to get you gasping, and an exciting finish.
Sunset crack, Wharncliffe – not a crack, and hidden from the sun amongst the trees. A perfect angle for techy padding.
Look at me! – not to everyone’s taste, but right up my street. A beautiful sunny Spring day, circuiting round Cratcliffe on my own, remembering how to smear and climb on rock, enhanced by wedging myself in this dirty crack and squirming to the remaining daylight at the end of the day

Top three boulder problems, abroad
Abroad, where’s that?

Top three five (and a few bonus) trad routes
I usually hate breaking the rules, but there’s no way I’m only choosing three for this!
Immaculate arete, Pordenack Point – I don’t believe in the concept of perfection, but some routes make you question your beliefs.

Bosigran ridge – done with Marie in glorious weather in May. Managed to access the first pitch this time which really is something.

Great wall, Craig-y-Forwen – pumped from the word go! Flashy and every bit as good as it’s reputation. My arms were so glad when I pulled over the top.

Left wall, Brimham – looking up at this route as a 14-year old beginner I was told tales of long ground sweeping falls terrifying passing tourists. These stories hindered more than helped. Pure class grit wall climbing on a big day out with Cheque.

Cameo & Master Spy Direct, Wilton 1 – first time climbing in Lancashire for me. Why don’t I go here all the time? Two routes (cheeky) which couldn’t be more different style, great moves, good scene at the Wilton-fest. Also, I fulfilled a long-held ambition of listening to ‘Autobahn 666’ by the Eccentronic Research Council whilst driving on said road “The A666, some call it the Devil’s Highway, and some call it the road to hell, but I can’t believe the Devil came from Bolton, gorged on black peas astride a small stone black elephant, and I don’t believe he was ever a fan of Chris Rea”

With special mention to The Emergence of Talus (Crowden Great Quarry) for climbing up a slender pillar leant against the crag with vertigo-inducing precariousness; Symphony Crack (Rhoscolyn) for living up to its informal title of being the World’s best VDiff seacliff; Big Sunday (Rhoscolyn) for being a 40° overhanging George Smith offwidth with no offwidthing required (thank fuck); and Desperation Crack (Brimham) for allowing me to watch Cheque struggle for twenty minutes of micro-progress until he topped out to a round of applause from the audience he had acquired.

 
Top three one sport routes UK
Ouijaboard, Chee Cornice – as well as being the hardest thing I’ve climbed in years (as good a reason to be on here as any, obvs), I thought this was a very good route. As standard, I only just scraped my way up it. You know the bit in Toy Story where Buzz demonstrates that he can fly but really it is just a series of fluke bounces off other toys – that was me. I fell up this route, albeit barely with any style.

Top two new routes/problems put up
I actually did five new routes in the Peak – I know right. So as you might guess, they were mostly shit for the connoisseur. These two are genuinely worth doing though:

Falter on the brink of terminal velocity, Darley Dale Quarry – the Peak’s newest neo-classic overhanging finger crack. The name? As an over-enthusiastic 16 year-old I would make lists of potential new route names. No puns as good as Jonboy’s obvs, but at least this name has finally seen the light of day 20 years later.

World Famous in the Amber Valley, Ravensnest Tor – indulge me… I scoped out this line whilst ab’ing for gear having done another new route which definitely does not belong in any category in a ‘Best of’ thread (unless ‘top three roof cracks that might fall off the crag’ is a legitimate sub-category, no?). Picture this: a big bold buttress of Chatsworth-quality fine-grained grit, untouched by human hand other than for the HVS crack at the very right-hand side. A line of holds leads leftwards above a huge roof, 25m above the ground. And as if by magic, a small, albeit fragile, flake positioned in such a perfect place that I temporarily questioned if I might be wrong to disbelieve in any god. It was immediately obvious that this line would be very good, quite bold, but – ach! – too hard for me this early in the year. It’ll have to wait until Autumn. Cue intermittent fretting for six-months in case someone has “stolen” this random bit of rock at a crag that no one ever goes to. One time I even saw a post on here by Mr Jonathan R asking Jonboy about gluing a flake which, driven by fear and jealousy, my anxious mind convinced me that he could only be talking about this route! There was some serious fitting the facts to fit my fears going on here. Reassurance from friends that no one ever goes to Ravensnest Tor did little to abate my fears, such is the nature of paranoia.
Autumn came, and with it did a post by Dave Thomas on here. What little I managed to grasp – something about pursuit of achievements diluting the purity of experience – made my heart sink… I’d always intended to top-rope this route first as it looked hard and scary, but maybe, just maybe… shit. A pact was made: I wanted to try it from the ground. The first day back at the crag, a cool November day, sheltered from the gale, golden leaves everywhere (mostly on the holds actually, I mean, it’s not the cleanest of crags). I abseiled to clean it and glue the fragile flake (which would have otherwise snapped on first use). The Wald top-roped the end moves beyond the flake whilst the glue dried. He made it look easy. Right then… no excuse to reconsider top-roping it now. Being a punter, I didn’t realise how slow the glue would be to dry, so we came back the next day instead. Walking in with the talkative Mike Cheque is never silent (Mic Check more like), here as he wanted to take some photos. Marie thinks the crag is a teetering pile of choss but begrudgingly agrees to belay. My heart is heavy as I set off, the weight of expectation from six months of waiting for this moment. Fortunately, the meandering first 25 metres takes me ages to negotiate the brambles, perched blocks, and the sandpit, which gives some time for me to relax into the rhythm of the climbing. After what seemed like ages, but can’t have been more than an hour, I’ve placed the gear in the HVS crack and I’m ready to start the traverse – here we go! It climbs completely differently from how I imagined it would: pinchy-undercut, smear, stretch left foot, crimp, reach, try to match – can’t, cross-over, uncross, no wait that won’t work cross-over again, fuck it slap, match, where are the footholds? just smear, why’s that next hold so far away? Fucking Wald, he made this bit look piss; Fucking DT, what am I doing here? Glance at the gear, christ I can’t even see it it’s somewhere near the horizon miles away, don’t look at the fall, look at the fall – dammit! focus, only thing that matters is this next big slap – I’m crap at big slappy moves! do it – boom! Gotcha; stay calm, breath, chill for a bit then high foot, rock onto it, further, come on trust it ffs, up, just stand up, and woah Mike did you see that? I laugh. I think Mike shook his head in disbelief. 
The name? Honestly, this route is so good it deserves to be spoken about in revered tones, held aloft as an example of the sublime, of the ethereal spirit of climbing embodied in a tucked-away gritstone cliff. It should be known around the globe… well, at least as far as the edge of it’s own valley anyway.


Top Spankings
Parthian Shit, Wyming Brook – I mean, I did do it, but only after falling off it loads of times. It’s Fiend’s route so I didn’t expect it to be very hard… sorry Fiend! If it’s any consolation, my bravado was richly rewarded by repeated scrittly slips and even when I did finally do it, I thought the top-out was frightening and possibly in the NFZ. Ego-spank.

Non-Tidal Screamer, The Diamond – this could easily go in top sport climbs, despite me not actually doing it! Poor route selection – it was too long to properly work in the time available – and a rushed redpoint as the sun was setting. I was scared way above the bolt and clipped from mid-crux rather than doing ONE MORE STUPID MOVE to clip from a jug. I fell off straight after I’d clipped. I deserved a long fall as punishment but instead suffered the humiliation of sagging onto the rope. Gah!

[spidermonkey09]

I'll take eatswood trav off my list then as a very unfit boulderer... i would have expected you to path it (fitness)! Although I've only been to have a look at it when Bradley was wet and haven't actually pulled on. Did you milk the knee?

I do like the look of the highball stumble stop repeat nearby! Shame about the access problems.

I wouldn't judge it by my incompetence, steep burl is my anti style! I think you'd rinse it as I struggled on some of the wide shouldery/compression moves. The crux will be getting there and not getting chucked off at the minute I think! How was the access when you went for a look? (PM if easier)

What a rich year you've had Spiders 

Just picking out one of your entries.
It's a great expedition to start with Main Wall on Cyrn Las. I think I carried on round the rest of the Horse Shoe the other way IIRC. A great day out.

I think this was what one of the Pinnacle Club members did on their Anniversary Meet. Can imagine it makes for a great link.

[Wil]

2021 certainly wasn't a vintage climbing year for me. It took me a long time to get fitness and mojo back after the lockdown, which in Scotland kept me confined to Edinburgh. That said, much of what I did get done was real quality, and while easy access climbing might not be the same as the peak, I'm much more motivated for what is on offer.

Top three two boulder problems

I didn't do a huge amount of bouldering, but a few good ones.

Little Pixies, Back Bowden. Didn't think I'd get this, but clawed my way to the jug after a few goes. I love this kind of problem.

Monty Python's, Kyloe In. Lovely problem that required trying hard and making a bit of progress each time.

Top three trad routes/solos

Eagle Ridge, Lochnagar. I've wanted to do this for years and had itchy feet in July during a warm spell, so I just drove up to the Cairngorms on my own for a couple of nights. I had the ridge to myself on a very sweaty, but midge-free day, then ran along the tops and down to Creag an Dubh Loch, then back along the loch. The route was great, but the day was made even better by the isolation and wildlife. There were some walkers about, I saw one team of climbers on Lochnagar and 2 on Dubh Loch. I also saw two Osprey and a Ptarmigan, which were firsts for me.

Shibboleth, Buachaille Etive Mor with Duncan. This was the first trad route of the year, and I was really motivated but not particularly fit or brave! I was glad Duncan did the wet crux. It felt a much bigger undertaking than I imagined and was a great adventure.


Pink Diedre, Beinn Eighe. We had a few days above a cloud inversion and did some great routes. For me this was the pick of the bunch, the middle pitch just goes on and on.



Top three sport routes

Stone of Destiny, The Camel. On the way back from Torridon we were trying to find somewhere that might be midge free on a still day. The Camel turned out to be that place and we had a great day working through the easier routes.

Tufa King Hard, Chapel Head Scar. I've only climbed here once before and it was mostly wet. We did a few really cool routes this time and I felt like I was going quite well but got a bit of a spanking at the end of the session on this and got up it by the skin of my teeth!

The Screaming Weem, Weem. Steep jug hauling that was really satisfying and just hard enough that I had to fight, but did it second go.

Top trip

Paddling around the coast of Skye in May. Mega trip with varied conditions and lots of wildlife: seals, dolphins, sea eagles and more. Paddling from Elgol to Loch Coruisk and then portaging into the loch and heading under the Dubh Ridge was the highlight.


Top Spankings

I feel like I had too many spankings this year on and off the rock, but a few memorable ones on it.

Ultima Necat, Dunkeld. Tried this as a stepping stone to Marlene and made really quick progress, doing it in overlapping halves on day 1. I had a few more sessions and just couldn't get past one of the moves on redpoint, despite doing it easily in isolation. This was a combination of not quite having the power endurance or ability to recover, but also nearly hitting the deck when a partner dropped me as I fell off it.

Moonshine, Beinn Eighe. We weren't sure which route to finish on, so went all in for this and I got the crux pitch. I made decent progress, but had no ability to recover on the jugs. The climbing was fairly steady with a few tricky moves, then a bit of a run out the "foothold on the arete". I got this hold in my hands then got really pumped trying to get a bit of gear in a flake before committing to the move. I couldn't get it seated properly and eventually I just had to make do and go for the move, shouting to my partner to "watch me, this could be a bad one!" I almost got the move, but I was just too tired, fell off, the gear ripped and I went quite a long way before the next pieces caught me. It's a steep route and a safe fall, and the other gear was totally bomber. I was pleased that I'd managed to go for it, but frustrated that a) I could have probably just done the move and b) If I'd had more mileage I would have been able to shake out at my highpoint, rather than get more pumped. Partner didn't fancy it so we bailed.

Cuillin Ridge. Great weather at the end of our trip to Skye and my OH said she'd pick me up at the end of the ridge so I could do it solo and in a day. Got up at 4am and set off with the forecast for low cloud, lifting early and then a fine day. Walked up in the ever thickening mist. Missed the junction on the path I needed and had to traverse the hillside awkwardly to get back. The mist then got so thick that I was a little disorientated, but managed to scramble up to the main ridge, although I wasn't quite sure where I was or which direction I needed to head, and my compass was going haywire. Visibility was about 10m. I went round in circles for a bit and the mist turned to rain. Eventually I hid in a little cave and ate my jelly babies, thinking I'd just wait it out and the ridge would dry quickly once the rain shifted. After a while it became apparent that the rain wasn't shifting, it was getting heavier, so I thought better of it and made a slightly tortuous escape back down the route I came up. The weather cleared up at around 4pm, so there's no way I'd have made it anyway. It was a glorious evening, perfect for a 2 day traverse, and the next day had great weather and would have been a better choice.

[remus]

Essay-time here, soz.

The essays are the best ones! Great write up of World Famous! I can totally empathise with cursing at the Wald 

[GazM]

Is that Pale Diedre Wil, rather than Pink? Pedant alert 
If so, yeah, what a route. That 2nd pitch just keeps going.
If there's a route on Beinn Eighe called Pink Diedre then  , ignore me!

[Wil]

Is that Pale Diedre Wil, rather than Pink?

Yes, you're right!

[GazM]

Is that Pale Diedre Wil, rather than Pink?

Ace, nice one.
Should you ever find yourself looking for the occasional partner up in the north drop me a PM. I don't get out much but always keen to try!

Yes, you're right!

[Aussiegav]

Top three trad routes UK
Had an awesome day at Wildcat. These two stood out. 
Golden Yardstick - Wildcat
Nine Lives Wall- Wildcat

Elbow Ridge - Winnats Pass.
Did this with my son on a sunny September evening.

Top three sport routes UK
Very slim & grim offerings here.
Any of the smears on the Moss Rake slab.
Handy Borehole - Masson Lees
Rotund Rooley- Horseshoe Quarry

Top Spankings
BeerHouse Buttress. Jeez those routes are tough.
Walking through the river to Two Tier barefooted & slipped. Dropping my rope bag.

Top Inspiring Line seen
Fifth Dimension- Nettle Buttress. That would be an awesome lifetime Redpoint

[Fultonius]

It's not been a jam packed year, but I do remember some distinct highlights.

Mountain Trad

Freebird on Beinn a Bhuird with Andy. E4*** 100m  Second visit in to look at it, first time it was wet. Quite glad, as I was going a bit better this time round and even then it was full value for money!  Andy made the first pitch look easier than it was - some incredible positions on that pitch!  The second had a pretty wild start, then thin and airy. Top day out in the heatwave.

The Spire, E4 at the Shelterstone Again with Andy. This was a brutal fight. Getting into the upper ramp/groove on the second crux pitch took all the years of trad trickery to account for my (at the time) relative lack of mileage/fitness. Lost most of a set of brand new offset alloy nuts my GF had just got for me for my birthday :-(

Howf Dweller, E3 Dubh Loch . Nearly always sopping wet, and you still have to use some big sopping holds in the crack. Given that intro it probably doesn't sound appealing, but it's got a ton of interesting 3d climbing like a big Yosemite dihedral. Quite unScottish!

Top 3 Boulders

After a few years of not really doing much outdoor bouldering, I got a bit of the psyche back last autumn as Andy has been getting out a lot more since having a wean. Got to Kentmere and the Bowderstone when down on working at height training:

Badger Arete ss 6C+ - took me a few goes to figure out the beta. Was quite chuffed to get this in a session as it wasn't really my style and I had to figure it all out myself. Lovely warm day on me tod. Also did a nice run around the same time up Easedale to Helm Crag, thanks HarryBD for the suggestion.

The Crack at The Bowderstone. Haven't even topped it!  Was on my own with just one mat. Didn't flash the start, but I don't remember it taking more than a go or two but really enjoyed the obvious line.

The final one is sneaking in as it's just another Dumby problem that I'd avoided doing for years.... Jeremey's Problem, 6C+. Always noteworthy ticking a new problem there.

Top 3 Sport Routes

Amor Suprem, Gelida near Barcelona F7b. It's been more than 11 years since I onsighted a 7b outdoors. Despite struggling on a 7a onsight in Margalef the week before, and having just recovered from a mild case of covid (post viral boost?) I felt the need to try to get a hard (for me) onsight that trip. I'd seen my mate Andy had done one in Chulilla a few days before, so I was obliged to have a bash! The day before I'd managed the 7a+ next to it rather casually (its nice when you are on an endurance route and stay aerobic the whole way, makes you feel like a legend, if only in your own head for a few minutes...).   Anyway, it had a fun steep start (6cish) followed by a hands free rest. The upper wall was 20° overhanging with relatively straightforward long moves on edges, and micro-rests on slightly bigger flatties - my ideal route. Starting to power out a few moves from the top I just caught one of the edges and manged to re-adjust - no finishing jug but there was a perfect jam niche so I knew from then it was in the bag!  Very psyched as I'd failed on a 7b to the right in the middle of the day when it was hot, sweaty and about 3 grades harder feeling...

Any of the Montserrat Multipitches with B Not so much difference between all the route, so but great fun watching my gf confidently leading on 6-7m runouts...and actually making team decisions about where to abseil etc. rather than me being in guide mode

This Won't Hurt 7a Llanymynech Quarry on a visiting family/friends trip round Shropshire/South Wales, England managed to grab a few days climbing on some slight detours. Slightly crumbly in places, but with some proper thought provoking climbing between not quite good enough rests.

Top 3 Trad Routes

Spaced out Rockers at Reiff E4 What a trip!  Had this one on the list for years, nice to finally get it done. A string of ropes on it that day (all our team, took some planning!). Just keeps on coming, and actually harder, bolder and pumpier than I allowed for. Not the soft touch you might expect so very happy to keep it all together and not run out of mid size cams. Triple 0.3-0.7 wouldn't go a miss! 

The Ogre, E5 Ardmair Ardmair is a place that's never really been on my radar, despite my love of hard single pitch cracks and sandstone...  I guess people often referred to it as a place to stop off on the way to Reiff, getting spanked in blazing sun, midged to death, blasted by freezing winds...
Simon lead this, so I was just seconding but it was stiff a great experience and it ranks as my #1 mate burn off for the year so pretty memorable for that    Simon looked pretty dismayed that I waltzed up it barely even pumped. Would have been a different story on lead but amusing nonetheless (he's way better than me...).

My Own Personal Mingulay on Supercrag (Creag Rodha mor)  First trip in, on a lovely hot day (but cool in the shade of the crag). Great to get acquainted with this mega crag and keen to go back for some of the harder routes. Had to dig deep on the bold second pitch as my usual level of fitness was not there giving me less margin.

Ok, it's #4 but honourable mention for Contortionism E6 6c, Cambusbarron Heard that Iain Small had cleaned this up, and the McKenna brothers had done/were working it. Felt nice to be down on my own figuring out the tricky beta on a shunt, then working it with Martin/John and seeing their alternative way, to finally getting it led on a quick detour heading north with B in the cool morning (Velcro connies) before a hot and sunny spring day. Hardest trad lead, and although I could have jumped on it sooner it was nice to have a few relaxed sessions working it and being patient for the right day.

Top 3 Spankings

Magic Festival, Fr7c Margalef

Ha. In theory a good route to try to onsight, being long and sustained. The American climbing school were in-situ, which meant pre-placed draws and as much beta as I wanted (none, initially…). Didn’t even make it through the lower boulder crux, then dogged slowly to the top and had to spend quite a bit of time working the sting in the tail crux. 2 more goes, one getting to the first kneebar but I just didn’t get anything back.
Came back a few days later, just at the onset of what turned out to be covid… weak, heavy and got nowhere.

Unleash the Beast, Ardmair, E4.  Hubris made me think I was good enough on cracks that I would be ok in full sun. Quality route and was mighty close to getting the onsight but somehow fell out of a jam on the only semi rest on the route…. Got it second go. High in the grade and technical jams. Will do again!

Headlong, Reiff, E4 5c.  After having done Spaced Out Rockers which traverses directly above this wall I was super psyched to get back on for one of the straight up routes. Pete had made a valiant effort at the start, but got a bit psyched out by the smeg and slime. I got to his highpoint and then quested on upwards. Things were going ok until I hit a particularly bold section that coincided with not quite enough rest and a lot of smeg, plus having ignored Simon’s advice to take a layer off I was massively overheating. Got hideously pumped and just couldn’t commit to moves left on soapy edges. Had to rest on a bad cam to take a layer off and de-pump. Seems like these routes are hard to get in good conditions as it’s quite sheltered – needs a strong breeze rather than a hot lazy day…  Impressive face, will be back….

Managed a 6 second hang on the BM 45° yesterday, still not as good as the 25 seconds I once managed back in around 2010 but still nice progress! 

[Fultonius]

Funny old year.

top 3 descents;

1) Morven - wanted to do this on skis for ages, but rarely snow low enough. Did it it on a lovely day, a bit windy at the top, but great snow on the south side, and fun traverse round to the front with mountain hares breaking cover all around.

2) Pannanich Hill & Craig Vallich the weekend after the mega dump it was clear the hairdryer was getting turned on and it was all going to shit, so me and mate headed up Deeside with a few spots in mind, the main issue though was that snowploughs had left 6 foot piles of snow in any available layby or parking place, so we ended up parking in Ballater town centre, and walking over the Dee Bridge to pick up trails through forest. Felt very continental. Snow cover great, and perfect turns in places, but blowing a hoolie on the tops, making stashing skins a bit of a challenge (if you've ever been slapped in the face by a damp sticky ski skin you'll know what I mean)

3)Cairn Mon Earn With the unusual amount of snow, a couple of mates decided to do a headtorch raid on a local hill. We all took boards and hiked through the woods to the top, breaking trail through knee deep drifts in places. From the top the phone line cut through the trees leads straight down to the parking, and the snow was perfect for the top 2/3 but a bit sticky on the boggy ground lower down, cue much comedy wipe outs an rolling about. Fantastic memorable evening.

Being up at my Mum's in Perth was a lot better than being stuck in Glasgow, but I was definitely wishing I could have nipped up to join you on some of those mini-adventures!

I did manage a ski munro in February, which culminating in me coming over a rise in the van and touching the brakes, finding myself way too sideways-backwards to save it and backing into a ditch. Luckily no damage, but had to walk down to the local deer stalker's house and get him to come and pull me out. Apparently I was about the 10th that weekend. He started to have a bit of a snipe at me for being "up from the city" but softened a bit when he found out I was a bit more local (even if only temporarily) and that I did have decent snow tyres, just temporarily lost the ability to drive sensibly....

[cheque]

The essays are the best ones!

  Give me an essay or a photo or video post over

“Name of problem Cheque can’t remember anything about This was hard, took three sessions”

any day. 

[csl]

Top three boulder problems

Squelch, Torridon. - pure quality. I had hoped to be flying along the Cuillin Ridge, but I didn't heed Duncan's warning to not skip leg day. Was dying from a recce a couple of days earlier so opted for a morning in Torridon before a long drive south. Bliss.

High Speed Imp Act, Churnet - First day out after lockdown and was made up to flash this, it's been on my wish list for the last decade.

King of Drunks, The Pass - have done this years ago, but was a highlight of a few days trying to get back into things after a summer of lethargy.

Top three trad routes/solos UK

Round of Coire Lagan via The Cioch, Inn Pinn etc.

Thanks to a recommendation from Will for this one. A perfect morning out, got up to the start via some easy soloing on Sron na Ciche, the walk across the nape of the neck was quite exciting but worth it for a selfie on the Cioch. Ever since watching Highlander as a kid, and my dad telling me it was "very difficult" to get up there I've wanted to do it. From there a fun squeeze under the boulder in east gulley led to the ridge, generally ok weather with a bit of low mist so got totally lost on the way down having soloed the inn pinn. Moving fast in the mountains is just so much fun. 

Main Wall, Cyrn Las - Good fun pottering up this as a three, plus a nice haul of crag swag. Made up for a miserable day getting rained off cloggy the day before.

Superdirect, Milestone Buttress - After an afternoon flailing at Tremerchion it was nice to run up this with Footwork

Top three sport routes UK

Armistice Day + Whose Line, Cornice - Both of these were my favourite type of ascent, totally unfit and not a chance of doing them when setting off, but just hanging on anyway and making it to the chains.

Insatiable, Cheddar - not for the quality of the climbing, but because I got to climb with an old mate for the first time in 5 years and had the fun post-ascent euphoric babbling feeling that I don't get much these days.

Top Spankings
Malc's Arete, Torridon - Only 1 move further than my last session 5 years ago 
Gritstone bouldering - I'm so bad at climbing on Grit, 1 session on it a year isn't enough to get anywhere.

[Bradders]

Quote fail

[Bradders]

From someone who is approaching that stage, it's nice to hear a note of optimism in amongst the wave of 'your life is going to end'.

I was going to add that people like David Mason, Dan Turner, Tim Stubley and Tim Palmer are all big sources of inspiration on this front.

Down & Out - a great day at Sprotborough with Matt, Guy and the Sheffield gang. This was really satisfying as I had to do a different sequence to the lanky strong folk but a drop knee got my onto the headwall. Above a sea of pads and vocal support I just about made it to the top. Great problem.

This and High and Dry look awesome, keen to check them out.

[cheque]

Top Five Trad Routes

Golden Gate, Stoney

The only route I climbed twice in 2021- it’s two pitches and I led and seconded each over two evening visits with different partners. One of those routes where the pitch that’s easier is the better one and also one of those routes where people can’t decide whether the crux pitch is hard and appallingly polished (it’s neither IMO) or pleasant and not really very polished at all.

In a year when I put far too much effort into trying to get one of my mates to recreate his 2020 psyche and achievements this was the only HVS he managed to lead clean so there’s some weird satisfaction from that too.

Freddie’s Finale, Wimberry

A good summer for Wimberry for the same reason I gather it was a good Kilnsey year-the wind was from the northeast a lot. This is my favourite type of route- hardest at the bottom and easier but still sustained above- I love the feeling of fighting (and fighting is the word on this one, it’s an overhanging fist crack that turns into a slanting and awkward off-hands experience  ) through with the knowledge that it’s in the bag if you keep it together. My mate seemed genuinely impressed at me doing this which doesn’t happen very often!

Great Crack, Duke’s Quarry

For those unaware, Duke’s is a Millstone-esque quarry in size and grandeur but rather than being on a windy hill near Sheffield it’s in a sheltered, jungly and very damp hole in the ground near Cromford. It’s the ultimate “you must call in there and do the classic HVS” venue except for the fact that it’s got it’s own tropical microclimate so it’s quite hard to predict when Great Crack (let alone anything else there!) will be anything like dry- it really needs a long dry spell in late spring.

I was a little obsessed with this when I lived in Notts and even got the crux start cleaned and dried off on a few occasions only for it to get wet again before I returned with a partner. It’s legend was enhanced by the story one of my mates told of sinking all of his appropriately-sized gear into the first half (it’s a ~30m crack that’s mainly red & gold Dragon size) running it out and plummeting almost the full height of the wall after blowing a move near the top. 

On the hottest day of 2021 I went to have a look, towelled a decent amount of gunk off the start and convinced myself that it would be dry in a couple of days… a few evenings later I went back with two mates and lots of cams. A cloud of mist hung in the quarry and the route was wet and slimy until about half way up but I did it, placing the gear for my comrades’ ascents. Ace.

Tritus/ Protus Connection, Raven Crag Walthwaite

Stayed with my mate in Ambleside in June. Knackered after going up to Bowfell the day before, us Peak visitors begged to go to a roadside crag and I was pointed at this linkup which I’m told is the best route there. Steep and on good holds at the bottom, a crux stepping across between routes and a groove at the top that’s easier than you think it will be  . So good to climb on volcanic rock for the first time in ages.

Skylight, High Tor

It’s not really a very good route but anything on High Tor feels epic and personal circumstances made it feel memorable. This should fill you in.

Top Three Spankings

The abseil down Retroversion, Stanage Popular

Climbed this route on a minging midgey evening in July and it started pissing it down as I topped out. My mate elected not to second so I set up an ab. You need a big silver cam to get the rope above the line and mine was in the route so I decided it’d have to do to have both ropes coming from the bomber threads at the top of inverted V.

Part way through the gear-stripping one of the ropes suddenly gets a lot of slack in it, I drop a short distance and absolutely freak out, go in direct to a cam and hang on gibbering while my mate goes up to see what’s up. The shout comes down ”the anchors are fine but there’s nothing I can do, you’re just going to keep slipping into the big groove” This was a mental setback that I’m not sure I recovered from very well.

The Peapod, Curbar.



I found lots of routes hard because of my weak legs this year but the extent to which this one suddenly shut me down on each of my many ground-up attempts was comical. I got exactly one move higher each time. I enjoyed it though and I’m hoping that a beefier-legged version of me will not have a problem come spring.

Desperation Crack, Brimham

I did actually get up this fucker clean first go seconding Reeve (see his post above) but I’m still classing it as a spanking as it wasted me for about 3 days. I felt sick and couldn’t climb VSs for the rest of the day. “Is the Monster Offwidth like that Reeve?” “Yeah, but it’s 50m long”. 

A month later I went back with another friend who’s much better at Offwidths than me and had a go at the Dirty Dozen. A great day and I hoped to use my new skills at the Desperation Crack-width to cruise it. I faced the wrong way (weaker leg outside) and had an even worse time on it!

I felt proper miserable writing the aims posts this morning but going back through all the good days and achievements to write this has cheered me back up. Here’s to a great 2022! 

[Footwork]

Top Trad

Main Wall, Cyrn Las

With csl and Ewan in guide mode. Great company on a lovely route which I found quite out there for HS! Bert and Tom had gone off to do The Grooves/ Overhanging Arete finish (which csl and I did 10 years ago! shit, we're getting old). We were so hungry when we got down that we ate all their food from their rucksacks. Don't forget to take the pervert's alternative on the way up, taking a slight detour to the infinity pool...

Also need to mention Superdirect, Milestone Buttress with csl and others. Straight out the car, Tom just finished work and we run up this in the glorious evening. I should do more after work trad in the summer, nourishes the soul.

Earl Crack, Earl Crag

I'd just belayed Will on his successful attempt of Desert Island Arete and he forced me to tie in the sharp end, despite me having managed to avoid doing so for well over a year. Absorbing climbing all the way and lots of mini gritstone puzzles.

Traveller In Time, Ramshaw

Another one I've always wanted to do. Howling cross winds and threatening to rain constantly, the decision was made on the ground to go up (having wimped out the previous morning in the same conditions thinking tomorrow will be better). Deciding to set off is always the hardest thing.

Top Blocs

Waite, Caley

Powerful and subtle. Pure class and I don't think gets done very often. Had to come up with some non lank beta for the second half. Great that it tops out too.   

Under A Full Moon, Satellite

One day I couldn't touch the first move. To Palmers disbelief and 36c's amusement. Next time I totally rinsed it. The feeling of biconically ripping through an overhang on small crimps is always welcome. Felt floaty on the last move.

Gleaming Pinch, Kilnsey

Weirdly difficult, most of it revolving around a drop knee and keeping the tension on the pinch. At least something got done at Kilnsey.

Tierdrop, Ramshaw

Done just before Traveller In Time in a t-shirt (weather in the UK is weird). Three stars and a beefy move. Feels like La Baleine in font but with cooler moves getting to the big slap. The very top crack was damp to top out and I had a rope thrown down the side in case my jam slipped and I had to grab something else quick.

Moffatrocity, Crag X

Took a few sessions and I kept forgetting my beta between them. You can do the first bit into Jericho Road in around 6-8 seconds but it doesn't half make you feel knackered for the big move to the crimp. Got intimate with the ladder and holds to work out a progressively easier method to temper the harder moves. I had a couple of blissful sessions down there by myself this year. Love it.

Absolute Spankings

Fluid Dynamics, West Chevin

Maybe 6 or 7 sessions of just ripping my skin off. Think I counted 5 split tips minimum. Hilariously it felt like we were almost going to do it on our first session, but we were going for the wrong bit of the hold. I turned up in some amazing conditions and skin was still just sliding all over the place. I'm leaving well alone this season!

Man With A Gun, Kilnsey

Think I lead the second half in a oner on my second session. Got the first half dialled over the next couple of sessions and then just kept turning up in awful conditions. I could get through the first half to a good rest but would then just ping off after a couple of bolts. Subculture's second half is a rising diagonal line of finger jugs where you just had to keep the pump at bay. Whereas the top half of MWAG feels like a catwalk 7b (better though). I came off once and smacked my knee pretty hard which aggravated old injuries and I had to hobble around for a few weeks as a result.

Definitely keen for it again this year. A really fun route that just keeps coming at you. Just need to dial it in again before the good conditions arrive so I don't waste them. Also smacked the Raindogs chain in terrible conditions.

Happy new year everyone.

[Will Hunt]

Quality has been sparse this year. The whole Stay Local thing at the start of the year was a blessing and a curse, resulting in a few nice FAs but little else; a frustrating run of non-cons at Kilnsey; coupled with the worst start to any grit bouldering season I think I've ever had - normally by this time I've done a 7B+ or 7C and this year I've been out about four times. That said, the highlights, where they've come, have been among the best of my life.


Trad

Desert Island Arete, Earl - had a top rope on it and could do the top crux fairly consistently but not really in control. Rock over until the fingers of your right hand are straightening out then whirl your left hand to catch the Jugmother before the void gobbles you up. Was really frightened about taking the whip but told my head to shut up and tied on at the bottom before I could back out. A tremendous experience.

Pot Scar - a divine, bucolic evening watching tractors chug through the haymeadows as we ticked off the classics. The Pusher, L.S.D., and Sunspot were all completely charming.

Viscount's Route, Earl - another noble line of Earl. Hard start up the bastard undercut crack, hard moves around the bastard wobbling chockstone, hard moves laybacking up the bastard lichenous crack to a chockstone glory jug. Mantel the ledge then embark on the "4c" bastard overhanging layback.
What an adventure!


Bouldering

Blockbuster, Caley - nemesis #1. How many times have I leapt from the pads? I'd always chuck a pad under it as I walked past and this time it clicked (thanks to good connies).

First Arete, Ilkley - nemesis #2. Connies are everything.

Secret Seventh, Caley - nemesis #3. I think I've been trying this on occasion since 2013. Christmas Eve 2020 I got the sloper to find it covered in gunge. Went back in February this year on a day with sub-zero temps and 45% humidity. Mythical connies.

Armistice, Baildon Bank - A very fun leap to a wild, swinging catch.



Sport

Space Race, Malham - I am head-over-heels in love with everything about this route. The pocketed rock on the slabby start; the gentle transition from slab to steep; the chonking kneebar rest; the traverse under the roof that dwindles just as the line above appears; the pumpy finish on memorable holds. I think I've seen it mentioned twice in this edition of the thread so far. Jim wanted it knocked down to one or two stars - the div!

Staying Power, Yew Cogar - newly retroed. Was expecting a fight but happily did it first go after a bolt-to-bolt with power to spare. The sun came onto the crag and we left to find Roger Deakin's "tufa pools" for a swim. The water was beautifully warm.

Wargames, Chapel Head - a fight to the death in a bad headspace. Bolt-to-bolted then dry-mouthed to the top in overly warm sunshine. Each time I arrived at a bolt I resolved to just get to the next. The millisecond after I clipped the belay my fingers uncurled and I fell off.

New Dawn, Malham - had a number of sessions getting nowhere with this. The warm sun led to a literal embarrassment of flailing. On a decent day I set off up it and was just unstoppable. Felt amazing in the tufa rest and the traverse across was a breeze. Got to the undercuts and still felt incredible. Like a fucking juggernaut. The best feeling of flow and cruise I've ever had on a sport route.

Main Overhang, Malham - what a joy it was to spend some time with this route. The moves are exquisite. I enjoyed every session, even the one where I dropped it on easy ground. This turned out to be a blessing because I got to return later in the week when the crag was bathed in golden light. Sublime.
 

New Things

Wayfinder, Ruin Bank Woods - one of my favourite FAs as the journey of climbing it slowly revealed itself. Had tried it in 2018 but not figured it out. Relooked at it with #sammarks early in the year but a wet and muddy finishing slab thwarted our efforts. A spooky moonlit cleaning session and a lunchtime hit sealed the deal. It would be interesting to see it repeated as it most likely needs de-starring.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CL69NLDD2Ic/


Shangri-la, Ruin Bank Woods - remarkable that this leaning tower hadn't been climbed. I think there used to be a tree growing against the arete which had got in the way.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CM2r72EjKqR/


Groovejet, Ruin Bank Woods - a team of us cleaned off this small area to produce some nice sub-7s, of which this was the stand-out line.
https://www.instagram.com/p/COOZ6CmD1bv


Gills - a spell of hot weather led to some exciting scrambles. What's so brilliant about these is how unlikely they look on the approach. You tell yourself you'll just look at the first move and before you know it you're halfway up a flowing line of the most perfect hidden jugs.

Crystal Gill - a diverting bit of stemming over a flooded slot leads to a large chamber, at the back of which is an unlikely and slippery looking chute. The back right of this is a stepped staircase of moss-lined jugs. Up there with Dental Slab as the best VD in Yorkshire and you park at a nice pub so refreshments afterwards are taken care of. So nice I did it twice.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRZrCe8jV--

Bouther Gill - done after a repeat of Crook Gill with csl. I was nervous about this one as the only info I had was from gill veteran John Hunt, who'd tried in high water and suggested the two difficult pitches might warrant harder than Severe even in the dry. Anyway, they were intimidating but ultimately all there. The open-top cave system at the top was the icing on the cake.
https://www.instagram.com/p/CRe5iW9DtEH https://www.instagram.com/p/CRedElmjcUR

[Duncan campbell]

Brilliant thread, I could of written this in September as due to buying a house I have barely climbed outside since then. But still, you never know...

2021 was a really great year for climbing for me, not a year I did tons and tons but what I did do was very good.

Top 3 Boulders - Peak

Had a great late winter in the Peak

1. Desparete 7B - Burbage South. Great stuff, nice height interesting moves, crimps, what’s not to love! Had a fun evening play on it not quite getting the subtleties of the final hard move. Then came back with a bit more of a crew and despatched, but not after falling off the top!

2. Book of Tricks 7B - Shining Cliff. Really fun problem from Rob Smith. We turned up to find Gus and Ben Rouse toproping it, but had quite a few pads so Nathan Lee, Oli Grounsel and and Tommy Williams flashed it. I managed to get it done in a handful of tries. We didn’t go all the way to be stood on the ledge by the tree to then ab off and instead got to the jugs just beneath the tree and dropped off, which caused a bit of a hoo-har. Seemed arbitrary wherever you stop as neither tops out. The climbing below is fantastic. Definitely recommended along with all the other bits in this bit of shining cliff; far side story, phaar side arete plus others.

3. Faith Left hand 7A+ - Roche Abbey. Maybe not a mega classic but I thought the climbing was ace, couldn’t work it out on my first visit but on my second after doing the right hand version I worked out quite a faffy but efficient way. Didn’t manage it that day but was off on a sneaky 3 day furlough stint and went back the next day and despatched. It was cold but sunny and these were the first two days my medication started working. I remember saying to Howard “I’m so happy to be here” in one sense I meant at the crag in the other I meant in general after having long spells of not wanting that. Good memories.

Top 3 non Peak boulders

Had a few trips to the lakes bouldering in the spring as a fair few of my friends were up there for a while. Had some great weather and did some fun boulders.

1. Son of Kong 7B - Harter Gold. Mega fun highball compression prow. Full team send which was just ace, the wads and the punters (me) all doing it in quick succession. Great scenes just laughing, joking and engaging thrash mode.

2. The Giant Peach 7B - a good save to what could of been a faffy day. Started off at fisher ground boulders but it was boiling so we sacked it. Walked in to completely the wrong crag looking for this then finally figured it out and made it. Some of the team wanted to sack it but a few of us carried on to the peach slab and managed to salvage the day. Me and Oli g managed this second go. It’s probably easier than the 7A to the left but the high crux makes it feel exciting.

3. Screwball Scramble 7A - Seathwaite. Great team scenes up here but whilst everyone else went to try a 7C me and Tanya snuck off for this. Such a fun, cryptic problem, shame Tanya didn’t quite manage it but was great to watch her engage thrash mode!

Top 3 Sport Routes

1. Supercool 8a+ - gordale. The biggie. I’ve wanted to do this for a while now and after a couple of sessions last year knew I liked it and that I’d have to get better to do it. I got stronger over winter and although I made some poor tactical decisions (turning up hungover a few more times than I should of) was happy to get it done just before my climbing year ended. Had some great fun sessions taking massive wingers off the crux. Was really great also managed to not get annoyed at lack of progress. Such an ace route. Definitely upped my level trying this.

2. Man with a Gun 7c+ - Kilnsey. Such a fun route! So continuous and with such great sequences on it. Had loads of fun trying it with Tanya and Ella, and just great scenes in general at Kilnsey.

3. I ain’t no sponsored hero, 7c - Kilnsey. Just really enjoyed this one. Was a bit of a day after supercool side project and managed to do it the day after I did supercool last go of the day by the skin of my teeth.

Top 3 trad routes

Had my least productive but best ever year in terms of high end achievement with 2 E6 onsights and 1 flash!

1. Pretty Girls Make Graves, E6. Still in disbelief that I onsighted this! The perfect combo of thinking I didn’t have a chance but keen to have a good go. Felt like I climbed it well, moving quickly between good locks/holds where I banged a couple of bits of gear in and then repeated. Finished the day off with a swim in Lyn padarn and pints at the heights... doesn’t get much better really...

2. Barbarossa, E6, Gogarth. (Sorry Northern Yob) wanted to do this for ages and was a great day out with Nathan. I’m starting to come round to NY’s stance on these bolt-pegs, but this is just a really good route with one in. Went for a swim under main cliff after.

3. Deygo, E3 Left hand red wall.

Classic day with an old friend who is soon to be an IFMGA Guide. I started us off on pitch 1 and nearly climbed back to the belay from beneath the chimney if cheesy death. The belay at the end is quite something! Tom backed off pitch 2 which I was initially annoyed about as it looked like he was close to easy ground but in fact after that it is really bold and sandy. The top pitch makes up for what was below with some nice rock and good gear. A fun day of guiding for me 😂

Top 3 non UK mainland routes

Didn’t go abroad last year but did spend a week at Fair Head, with a great crew and good weather! So good to sup Guinness again!

1. Paralysed Power, E6. Sooo good this! Had seen the vid of varian on it in one of Ricky Bell’s through the green door series (ep. 6 maybe?). I abbed it to make sure it was clean and had a look at some gear whilst I was there. I was just in my trainers so didn’t check any moves and had a great on the limit experience climbing this. My friends maddy and Ollie were on a rock promontory just behind and were shouting encouragement. Towards the end my legs were in bits from bridging up the corner and hanging around trying to figure the climbing out. The guide said for the last bit “either reach for the for the jug or jump for it” not ideal for someone who isn’t very tall or dynamic! I ended up laying one on for it and just held it. So so good.

2. Candy Kisses E4. Really cool interesting climbing up corners and grooves with a really cool sequence to get into the top groove on p1.

3.Hurricane E2. Lena’s first E2 onsight. I just thought it was such fun though. Swimming up hand sized cracks.

Top spankings

1. Sprotborough. Headed out with a big crew but failed to do anything. Usually this would send me into a bit of negative cycle of self loathing. But on walking out my cheeks were aching from laughing and smiling so much so it was obviously a great day

2. E5s. Only did one this year and didn’t onsight it! The first time this has happened since I did my first back in 2014. Mainly because I only tried really hard ones and didn’t try that many. London Wall was probably the biggest spanking. Need to get that one done!

Top wildlife sightings

1. Numerous dolphin sightings during the Ireland trip. Just ace, one sighting on the ferry. Another was climbing on the last day, a massive pod swam past whilst I was seconding. I managed to turn round and watch them.

2. Sheffield badger. Got home and out of the van and saw a badger running down the road. Wind was blowing towards me so badger wouldn’t be able to smell me. I hid behind a van and it all but ran into me! So cool

3. Sheffield foxes. Always love seeing them. Great stuff.

Hope everyone has an ace 2022. I’m certainly looking forward to it!

[abarro81]

Essay-time here, soz.

The essays are the best ones! Great write up of World Famous! I can totally empathise with cursing at the Wald 

Yeah, enjoyed that write up!

[Alex-the-Alex]

Best thread. Deliciously self-indulgent to read and write. 3 months of rain up here had me forgetting what a good year its been for climbing! In part thanks to a depressing break up and being unemployed in the first half of the year (silver linings etc). But also mostly thanks to super duper partners.

Best Routes – so many contenders this year! Though all from February to August…

Blackbeard, Signal Wall, Mull of Kintyre – Cant believe ive left it 5 years to get down here. Its like a mini Gogarth! Signal Wall and the bay with this and Caulking Wall are properly impressive. Taps aff weather in March. Did Pugwash first with Nick (great questy climbing) then jumped on this. The crux on this is a brilliantly burly problem onto a teetery slab. 30 mins up down up down figuring out the roof then another 20 sweaty minutes trying not to blow the slab move. Very satisfying and great to push through on a harder route early season. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51793810672/in/photostream/

Rapunzel, Beinn Fhionnlaidh – all the ingredients of a cult classic. Rarely in condition, rarely repeated, little info or photos, and yet its on the local hill and practically the only route on it. Inclusion in chasing the ephemeral has only stoked all this. Walked in with Rich on the most marginal of days, with winds howling and temps rising, which only made it more satisfying. The bottom icefall collapsed as Rich dragged me up it, but beyond it was perfect fat ice amongst twisting gullys. The walk back over the top was as wild as any ive done. Poor Rich reached the farm track only to receive a call out from Beinn Udlaidh and jogged the last two miles to the car. Heroic stuff. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51795491560/in/photostream/

Paladin, White Gyll – Midsummer. Jake had just lead WG Eliminate as his first E2 (ridiculous E2). I knew Paladin by reputation and the anniversary stuff on ukc (think I had managed to avoid the video though..). It’s such a feature anyway once there. I was sucked in. Approached the big pitch feeling tired but nicely relaxed with no real expectations. And it all seemed to click into place. Never too pumped, never too frazzled, good gear, mega positions, and such a satisfying crux! So, so good.

Best Others – Kelpie at Scoor (brilliant adventure pitch!) and anything on Sheigra main wall with Claire. Titans wall, Freak Out, and Edgehog, as well as a magic few days in the lakes at Reecastle and Burnt Crag, and a weekend up NW, all with the Swiss Machine. Decadent Days, Innocenti and Guillotine stand out as highlights from those trips.

Best Boulders – the pads took a back seat this year, and most bouldering days out were spent on still unfinished jobs, but a few that stood out:

Clifftop Boulders – A perfect November grit day with Ben and the Adam Family after an equally heart-warming evening the night before. I got up very little (Boing Boy by cheat way maybe?). But it was everything a day out should be. Almost enough to tempt me back south.

Red Riding Roof, Hood Crag – 5 minutes from mum and dads. Managed to squeeze in a few hours before sunday dinner one weekend whilst back. This takes a very satisfying set of moves through the roof from the far left then finishes up the crag (mini)classic. A lowball link up in reality, but it reminded me how much enjoyment you can get from 5m of rock in a field. Its a great little crag. Well worth an afternoon.

Brandy Rock. Still great. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51794862548/in/photostream/

Best big days oot

Fionn buttress – Late summer with Mika. Paddled across Loch Maree and camped at the causeway, paddling for fun as much as anything (I don’t think its much quicker..). All a bit too relaxed, with a late start paddling, wrong guidebook, and getting lost on P1+2. But it lived up to all expectations. A gem of a mission in perfect company.

Knoydart traverse – Later summer. A long weekend of high camps and halcyon ridges with Soph. We started up Meall Buidh as the inversion rolled into the valley below and only ever dipped into the clouds once in two days on the way round. Camping on Ladhar Bheinn looking out at the Cuillin amongst a sea of cloud was indelible. The last day was a melter and we were in every lochan and pool on the way back to Inverie. A dreamlike adventure and perfect company again. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51795549860/in/dateposted/

Cruachan ridge – big snowy romp round the horseshoe starting from the Dalmally side with John. Joy. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51794883138/in/dateposted/

Best Nu Roots

Cotyledon and the Braid, Gallanach Cliffs – Ive always been convinced the Oban cliffs held good trad routes as well as sport potential. Good connies early in the year, as well as the threat of frenzied bolting in the area drove me to get these two E1’s done. The Braid gives a brilliant big pitch up 35m of the cleanest walls, following good strenuous cracks for the first half then more questy climbing up the top slabs. I had abbed down to scrub the lichen and check the rock (as had Rich, thanks Rich!), but the lead was as absorbing as any this year. The Swiss Machine repeated it in the summer and loved it too. Cotyledon was a different beast, taking a massive 35m double corner system starting in the woods and finishing at the lookout over Kilbowie and Kerrera. Climbing this with Andy was everything that’s great about intense trad experiences. Managing the mind, fear, gear, pump, and drag to climb something totally improbable. Would love to see someone try this. The grade was a loose fit…
https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/50821244337/in/photostream/ the Braid takes the slab 10m left of the route in this pic.

Letter From America, Creag nam Fitheach – with Claire in the early spring. This takes the big leaning headwall where America skips right into the chimney/groove. You lace the high break with cams before cranking for metres on monstrous jugs to a wee pulpit and gear, then a steep, well-protected mantle to finish. A true gem of a crag, especially in the spring and Autumn, and nice to contribute to it. This, Crucifixion Crack, Pocket Wall, Razor’s edge and The Trial are all mega in the low to mid grades. https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51794874873/in/photostream/

Runs the Fox – new route support holding the ropes for Rich on his winter projects. What looked from a distance like an easy hanging slab cutting though the crag turned into a thin as thin V 7 corner and slab with Stein Pulls, bridging and an impromptu one armer. More like bouldering with axes than anything id done previously. Magnificent lead by Rich! Video (and top quality rant) from Rich here: https://www.picuki.com/media/2671817369571858733

Best (worst) Spankings

Monkey man and Whales and Dolphins – Terminal, magnum grade pump on both (not helped by smeg and the buckets on whales and dolphins being more like hanging rock pools).

White Gyll Eliminate. Where the legend of Lakes Grading must come from…

Dirc Mhor, Shining Wall – Was going well and thought a new E3 Heres Jonny would be worth a punt. Couldn’t commit to 100% power on the boulder problem and slumped off. Tried to escape up Nature’s Raw and ended with an omnishambles of rope drag, repeated falls, and near hypothermia from the wind at the top (sorry Nick). Super buttress though! https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/51794894673/in/dateposted/

Troubles of the Heart – woe is me.

This thread is a wonderful excuse to remember and write things up, something I would otherwise neglect. Cheers all and good luck all for 2022!

[abarro81]

A slightly strange year, with periods of doing lots of climbing interspersed with periods of doing very little climbing!

Top three boulder problems, UK
Tourniquet - after a perfect forecast turned into a snowstorm we drove up the motorway in a blizzard. I thought Ella and Tanya were total idiots for wanting to carry on, there was no chance we would find dry rock and this was a total waste of time. Grumpy Alex came out, I moaned a lot... then as we turned up the valley the sun came out, everything was a stunning winter wonderland, we had a great afternoon climbing and this thing was ace, including the snowy death topout. A lesson to keep the faith!
Les Grands Doigts - I'm normally not a big grit fan, but this had really nice climbing and was a lovely day breaking through what felt like a pretty bleak period
Alliance Sit Start - like the above, my favourite problem from a day of trying to reconnect with the fun of being out climbing and enjoying the rock when things weren't going how I wanted
Top threetwo boulder problems, abroad
Triple X (Frankenjura) - not really a boulder since it's about 40 moves, all of which are easy, spinning around in a roof on jugs and knees. But of course that's my favourite kind of boulder...
Berühren verboten (Frankenjura) - board climbing at the foot of some ruins with a picture-perfect Franken view. Very nice! Such a nice place to hang out, if only Fj had giant tufa caves instead of short fingery routes!

Top three trad routes/solos UK
I did a few solos while resting my finger. Remember having fun but can't remember what I did!

Top three sport routes UK
Preposterous Tales (Kilnsey) - so much fun from a very cold Kilnsey season in the spring. Pretty cool being up in the roof working beta in the middle of a snowstorm! Redpointing on this was exactly what I want - getting psyched up with euphoric female vocal trance (I let myself use the 2009 Armin van Burren EM, something I save for "special occassions"!) and climbing in a flowy, aggressive way on a long route, getting pumped, taking big falls into space, hanging upside down in the post-crux knee... Magic. More, more, more please!
Guns in the Sky (Kilnsey) - first route back after 6 weeks off for the finger. So much fun! Cool first crux (knee bar, toe hook etc.) and a big arm-swing jump on the second crux. Can't believe it hadn't been done since Gaz did the FA, guess the wetness and dirt puts people off!
Barberosity (WCJ) - choss. I even smashed myself in the face with the jug I pulled off. But the inadvertent cut-lose-crimp-grab-big-swing mid falling off on the redpoint gets it ono the list

Top three routes France
Ultimate Sacrifice - I love long, pumpy, thuggy, full-body routes. In case anyone didn't already know that.
Le Souffle du Ragga - More full-body, leg pumping, head pumping, brilliance. This is why I train, this is why I go to Europe, this is why I climb.
La voie de marc - shaking out at the final rest, looking down the (insanely flood-devastated) valley after 40m of just-about-in-control glorious climbing... a reminder of just how much I love this stuff. Store away those memories 
Honorable mentions: Deverse Satanx because I felt strong, Nosferatu because it's a cool kneebar voyage through a wicked roof

Top three routes Franken
Ballermann - nice to flash something hard in FJ, with perfect beta from Ella. Also nice to see my finger can take some crimps if I only pull on them once!
Misterioso - roof crawling with 80% of moves off knees. Cool, and very un-franken!
Osho - Standard franken: PE on pockets at a micro-crag (that it only took about 3 days of bushwhacking to fail to find! thankfully local knowledge sorted us out)


Top three new routes/problems put up
Preposterous Tales - see above
Top Spankings
Life during early Spring - this really kicked my ass. At the risk of being #thankful and #blessed, I'm very grateful to everyone who helped me with my head this year - Ella, family, friends, fellow ukbers...
My kuckle - still dodgy as hell despite many efforts and much money. In a much better place with it mentally though.

[Wood FT]

Grades please, Barros, you bloody drama king.

[Johnny Brown]

No mention of all the great hobbies he got to try while resting his finger either?

[Fiend]

Top 3 custom kneepads self-sewn during finger resting. 

[bolehillbilly]

On reflection I've had a good year climbing despite a lot of other issues and complications off the rocks, so frustrating to be in current COVID situation. Enjoyed reading the thread and got time on my hands so thought I'd add my long list version.

Top 3 New Local Grit Boulders
Felt like a quieter year on the new problem front for various reasons but involved in another couple of new areas plus some more Bradley outliers after last year's gold rush. 
1.  Carmasutra 6C+ Highoredish
Took a few visits and some hip mobility work to do this, it's a bit like Bad Lip at Curbar, one of a number of good new problems from a local team effort at Highoredish.
2.  Hoodwinked 6B+ Robin Hood Quarries
The quarries were my go to new local spot during last year's early lockdown. Did of bunch of new stuff of local interest and I doubt they'll ever be climbed again after the scenes of last Jan/Feb. There's nothing superstandout but his was one of the first, looks like it should be easy but very knacky, failed to repeat it a few times since. Regularly visiting the quarries as winter turned into spring was a real pleasure of solitude, birdlife and changing light, felt like right place, right time.
3.  Belly Dancing 6A+ High Peak Incline Cuttings
 Highball arete on the incline opposite My Pet Daddy with an fairy unobvious solution. Involved taking all my pads in by wheelbarrow. I was thinking of headpointing My Pet Daddy too that afternoon but the wheelbarrow got a flat and I was knacked by the time I got there.

Top 4 Peak Grit Boulders

1. You Just Got Bonjoyed 6B+ Grinah Stones
Great climbing, a bit highball and a rare team scene send for me. Its the one behind the big slab, up the ramp with the high left heel, a rockover at the top and a haiku about the moon. Ive made up the name and grade for personal reference.
2. T Bone Wilson 7A  Black Garden
A great morning out with a bouldering legend at one of my favourite local spots  I'd done the stand before but climbed it from a sit by the hang the sloper top method this time.
3. Honorary Caley 7A Stanage
I tried to have a few trips north of the parish, mostly but I wasn't very successful at choosing the right options. However I managed this one onsight. Overall it was a good year on the slabs.
4. Crossdresser 7A Cademan
I had quite a few trips to Leicestershire this spring that fitted around other activities. Great getting to know a new to me area. This was one of those I've just got an hour what can I do? type successes.

Top 3 New Lime Boulders
Slim pickings, only managed 3 as I spent a lot of the summer driving to and from Lancashire.
1. Plastic Pulling Punter Problem 7A+ The P
Managed to find a few previously unused holds for this eliminate. Good moves, the ramp is out for feet so back around people
2. The Truth and Other Leys 6B+ The P
An ugly way into the ramp line of Leys and Deception from the right, double knee scum beta, you'd want to have done everything else at The P before this.
3. The  Gelatiere 6A Oddos Dale
A bonus find of some low quality dry rock on a wet morning exploring walk. Might just be worth revisiting.


Top 3 Lancs Boulders
1. Slipstream 7A+ Wilton
Finally got to Wilton Fest and then in typical style disappeared off by myself to The Allotment. In the afternoon went up and did a circuit in 2 with a few locals. Should have flashed this one but went second go. Did it from a sit as a warm up next visit.
2 . JRs Soft Shoe Shuffle 7A Wilton
Blew the onsight by watching Fiends Lancs vids on YouTube.
3. Nerds and The Knees 7A+ Stronstrey Bank
I went up to do Mirth of Ducks, another Fiend beta flash so went on a circuit and ended up here, good battle with fatigue and a perfect Stronstrey sunset.

Top 3 New Non Local boulders
1.  Ebb and Flow 6C Wilton 2
The blank corner right of Laminar Flow. Ugly, awkward and maybe harder for the tall. Unclassic but nice to get one in at Wilton.
2.  Come Fry With Me 6C Cable Bay, Anglesey
Did a few variations and eliminates, good rock and lovely location in a small bay South of the main beach. Named after a hearty breakfast.
3. Fingers Crossed 6C Crown Edge Quarry
A Fiend inspired visit enroute to Lancs. The grading here seemed a bit all over the show but it was a great stop off for a quick hit and had the bonus of a new one too.

Top 4 New Routes
Finally got my act together to put a rope on some lines in the book.
1  Happy Daze E1 Chasecliffe
Lovely spring day out with my daughter, direct up the middle of the buttress through some good steep grit. Maybe the best route at Chasecliffe?
2. Butterfly Effect E3 Bradley Quarry
Another perfect spring day doing some new routes and boulders in the quarry.  Wasn't sure about highballing this so borrowed Bonjoys ballnuts to protect the pull onto the shelf. Sort of wish I'd done it without.
3. Come on Pilgrim E3 Bradley Edge
Another one that might be a highball !! but used a rope and a couple of skyhooks.
4. Wurst Side Story E5 Black Rocks
Great slabbing left of Hot Dog Sniffer. Happy to get one on the local cliff. Thanks due to Mark20 who came along and shared some headpointing wisdom.

Top 3 Trad Routes
1. Bicycle Repair Man E1 Staden
A repeat from 30 years ago, first proper let's go do some trad with my daughter.
2.  Merlin Direct HVS Tremadog
Another 30yr plus repeat on a great long weekend with my daughter in NWales. Had forgotten how brilliant Tremadog is.
3.  Faces E5 Via Gellia Buttress
Went to hold a rope but the top peg had snapped so we ended up both top roping this. A great hidden gem first done by Shark in 1980 something, tough, hard to read. Keen to go back on this in the summer. Will post up in the recently cleaned thread if this gets sorted as the E3, and E2 (harder than the E3) are both brilliant and theres also a new E5 which is very good.

Top 3 Sport
Only went sporting  a few times all with my daughter but made me want to get back in the game next year.
1  El Sergio 6a Intake
I'd forgotten how good this actually is, great view from the belay too
2. Human Being Skewered 7a
Good line in a recently bolted local quarry.
3.  Another Roadside Attraction 6a Colehill
Did this a few times, nice to watch Evie work towards a redpoint back in May.


Top Spankings
1. Mantles.
2. Velvet Silence. See above and below.
2. I was laid out by COVID in October and still not recovered. Heading into long covid territory in the next few weeks unless there's a dramatic improvement, not sure what this will mean for 2022 plans.