Liamhutch89 said:remus said:Liamhutch89 said:Wellsy said:My aims for the year are both going terribly and going great. Doubt I'll be doing 7B on grit or 7B+ on limestone any time soon. But I'm definitely much physically stronger, despite the whole knee disaster, and I've probably got a decent chance of getting a 7A+ on grit done, and various 7As and 7A+s have already happened this year.
If you want an on paper tick for lime 7B+ get to Roche Abbey and do fallen idol. A 1 move problem that's entirely down to finger strength. It's probably 7A+ in reality and not very good but think of the green tick on Instagram potential!
To make your visit more worthwhile, the fool is a much more legitimate
finger strength dependent 7B+, and there are some good problems from 7A / 7A+ such as bad habits sit and faith left and right hand versions.
Funny you say that, I find the fool piss compared to fallen idol (which I haven't done despite having a few sessions on it). I'm no crimp waif but Im not completely shit on small holds either.
Interesting. My finger strength on a 20mm edge is extremely poor for my climbing grade, but actually quite good on small edges. I've learnt that I need to be crimping at a very high angle and pulling outwards on the holds (like a pound shop Aidan), or I'm not very good! On my one visit to Roche, I had a power hour going right to left of Beef Buttress, trying all the independent lines up to 7B+. I started with Fallen Idol and nearly flashed it, but by the time I got to The Fool at the other end it felt pretty hard and I didn't quite finish it. It may be steady with adequate rest.
However, I'm dubious of your grading since getting to try Kleptomania recently; it definitely felt harder than 7A+ to me! In fact it feels quite a bit harder than either the fool or fallen idol and I didn't manage to clip the chains that session. Quality moves though, so it's not too disappointing having to return!
abarro81 said:I concur with Remus - Fallen Idol is miles harder than The Fool, and incomparably harder than the crux of Kelpto.
Ged said:Do a good job of helping wife recover from giving birth to our second daughter(any day now)sometime in March, and helping her get back to fitness. Do a good job of looking after eldest daughter at the same time, whilst not being a grumpy arse.
Ged said:When's the traditional time to revisit this thread?
Ged said:When's the traditional time to revisit this thread?
csl said:Climb one of each discipline from my "lifetime list" ticklist
- Jerry's Roof
- Dominatrix
- Some classic trad in Pembroke or N. Wales
- A long rock route in the mountains
Train consistently
- Do at least 90% of planned sessions
- Climb 50% of my "#ldnclmbr" ticklist
Make outdoor sessions count
- Have a plan and visit specific routes/boulders
- Do at least 2 sessions on each goal route/boulder
Hoseyb said:Had a really good year climbing wise. Next year I need to focus on having as much fun as possible and moving further along the (lone wolf<pad partier) scale. The following goal s are based on this:
1) Make Fiend fall off a boulder due to giggling / well executed pisstaking
2) Burn AndyF off on some arbitrary but pretty piece rock, however transitory the experience.
3) Discover a perfect unclimbed offwidth (f**k realistic goals)
4) Get some more regular bouldering partners, who are tolerable and cope with my random availablity.
5) Feel on top of my 'to do' list, by climbing some of my arbitrary projects, completing my flights of fancy, and tilting at less windmills.
Bradders said:Trip of a lifetime sounds like a bigger win than any normal goal csl!
What's on the #ldnclmbr ticklist?
csl said:The ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.
Liamhutch89 said:2 x 8A
10 x ≥7C
side splits
1) success, but it took around 2 monthsAndy F said:1) Recover 100% from COVID
2) 7b+ sport
3) 7A boulder
Setting lowish goals (apart from No1) is the way forward. I'd rather be unambitious and successful nowadays, so much less stressful
yetix said:Can't find a post by me but have goals on my phone of:
3x8A (0 but feeling close on more than 3, just terrible at going back to anything I don't do in a session)
10x7C+ or above (11, so 1 goal done)
30x7C and above (20)
5 nemisis from last year (2 so far)
Need to get better at going back to things
Yossarian said:csl said:The ticklist is a lot less funny than one Yoss would create - just stuff on the two granite boulders in London parks and a smattering of the least shit southern sandstone.
Intersperse that with a few board problems set with custom-designed black limba and olive wood crimps, fuelled by a diet heavy in natural wine and habanero granita and we’re halfway there…
Ed booth said:CLIMBING:
Never really got going with building a good strength base only spring trips to Yorkshire were to Malham where I failed to finish off Soft Option.