Duma
Well-Known Member
Some great years all!
Aims for 2023
- Thread starter cheque
- Start date
Help Support UKBouldering.com:
At least 3 of the following existing projects. These range from having had a brief play, to having had 4-5 sessions on and repeatedly falling at the chains. *Cough* Biological *Cough*.
Canyonlands, Devil's Gorge
Nanabozho, Llanddulas
Broken Dreams, Dinbren
Bad Bad Boy, LPT
Biological Need, Kinsey
Herbie, Malham
Canyonlands, Broken Dreams and BBB. Didn't get to Yorkshire at all this year.
At least 1 of the harder routes I've had my eye on. This list may evolve if other stuff takes my eye.
Hades, Devil's Gorge
Statement of Youth, LPT
Insomnia, Dinbren
Had a quick play on Hades and Insomnia but decided to prioritise training for RRG in the autumn which was my original planned window for this.
Beat last year's record of 5 trad routes.
12!
20 boulders 7A+ and above.
Headed out to the Orme today to get the 20th done.
A decent year all in all but looking forward to trying some harder stuff next year.
Canyonlands, Devil's Gorge
Nanabozho, Llanddulas
Broken Dreams, Dinbren
Bad Bad Boy, LPT
Biological Need, Kinsey
Herbie, Malham
Canyonlands, Broken Dreams and BBB. Didn't get to Yorkshire at all this year.
At least 1 of the harder routes I've had my eye on. This list may evolve if other stuff takes my eye.
Hades, Devil's Gorge
Statement of Youth, LPT
Insomnia, Dinbren
Had a quick play on Hades and Insomnia but decided to prioritise training for RRG in the autumn which was my original planned window for this.
Beat last year's record of 5 trad routes.
12!
20 boulders 7A+ and above.
Headed out to the Orme today to get the 20th done.
A decent year all in all but looking forward to trying some harder stuff next year.
Ross Barker
Deathly afraid of traverses
- Sort out the current dodgy A2 and then stay uninjured. I'll do that by exercising self discipline to drop the intensity when the volume increases, rather than just recklessly going all out all the time.
Big flop. Sustained loads of finger injuries/reinjuried on my left hand this year, ring thrice, index once, and middle once which I'm currently progressing. Some of them were reasonably minor, so I had to throw in a short-lived left shoulder injury to keep things interesting. I think it's due to creeping up session volume (particularly hard board stuff) when it just wasn't necessary, and it simply had a great risk of overuse. Right side is strong as fuck and uninjured though!
- Do more DWS. Did it for the first time last year and had great time despite being rather shit at doing more than 5 moves!
Half flop. I did technically do more than last year, but didn't try anything hard as I had a terrifying experience in early July which knocked my headgame, and then that scorcher weekend in September I had a knackered shoulder! Ah well, next year is another chance, with lessons learned.
- Do some training for DWS, or at least something a bit transferable like sport or long boulder linkups. Not because I want to send hard, but because being able to better manage the pump would probably get me more value out of it.
Nah. This might've been an optimistic one, but I don't enjoy sport/trad/being pumped enough to actually do this. I don't think it's necessary for enjoying it anyway, just means I'll get burnt off by sport climbers!
- Consider day trip-able DWS options around North Wales (driving from Shropshire):
*Nant Gwrtheyrn and maybe more Lleyn potential
*Various Orme bits
*Penmon and maybe more Anglesey potential
Sort of success. Penmon now seems to lack access and didn't make it to Anglesey at all. Gwrtheyrn was great but has challenging conditions. Orme was scoped out, seems reliable conditions-wise but never climbed on due to failing headgame. Heel Hook Look area looks good but shallow, so you'll want good tides for the top bits of any routes to be safe. Pigeons Cave area looks good and possibly better water but the exit wasn't obvious from where we were stood so I'd want to have that figured out (any beta?) before getting on anything. There are some staples on top which might be handy for an ab rope.
- Rigpa, but subject to pad logistics and finger health.
One good session between finger injuries, but that's all folks!
- Visit some of the "grand full day out" list:
*St Bees
*Sampson's Stones
*Cwm y Foel
*Rhinogau in general
*Howshaw/Back Tor
*Simon's/Lord's Seat
*Great Wolfrey
*Anafon
Not a single one! Had a big day up at the far top end of the Wavelength boulders which hit the experience, bouldering until dusk, sprinting to the car and grabbing a curry before the local house shut for the night.
- Do some exploratory/development days.
I did have a couple, so green may be fair but after the weather went to shit in June I only ever tried established routes like a classic boulder consumer, so orange feels more appropriate. Enjoyed little visits to Bryn Castell and Craig y Wrysgan though.
- Visit some of the "why haven't I been here yet" list:
*Pac-Man Boulders
*Cwm Glas Bach
*Carreg y Foel Gron
*Llyn Celyn
*Wimberry
*Wolf Edge
*Secret Garden
Only visited Cwm Glas Bach, and that wasn't particularly comprehensive anyway. I did go to a fair few new places this year which weren't on the list, so I'm not too disappointed with orange.
- Revisit some of the "got all or most of the moves done so could be a goer" problems:
*The Mentalist
*Lizard King
*Harvey Oswald SDS
*Cosmic Wheels
*Hannibal
*Severus Snape
*Brass Monkeys
*Cruella
*Grasswind
*Bad Moon Rising
*The Captain
*Old King Cascade
*Suavito
*Cholesterol Traverse
*Beef Growler
Fuck it, I'll give myself green for this one. In a year where I've been working around injury so much, and considering how much I normally like to go to new venues rather than the same ones anyway, I think I've done rather well to round off two pretty hard things. Harvey SDS will have to wait further, but it dries dead quickly and is super accessible. Bit minging on the skin though...
It's been an interesting year indeed...
Big flop. Sustained loads of finger injuries/reinjuried on my left hand this year, ring thrice, index once, and middle once which I'm currently progressing. Some of them were reasonably minor, so I had to throw in a short-lived left shoulder injury to keep things interesting. I think it's due to creeping up session volume (particularly hard board stuff) when it just wasn't necessary, and it simply had a great risk of overuse. Right side is strong as fuck and uninjured though!
- Do more DWS. Did it for the first time last year and had great time despite being rather shit at doing more than 5 moves!
Half flop. I did technically do more than last year, but didn't try anything hard as I had a terrifying experience in early July which knocked my headgame, and then that scorcher weekend in September I had a knackered shoulder! Ah well, next year is another chance, with lessons learned.
- Do some training for DWS, or at least something a bit transferable like sport or long boulder linkups. Not because I want to send hard, but because being able to better manage the pump would probably get me more value out of it.
Nah. This might've been an optimistic one, but I don't enjoy sport/trad/being pumped enough to actually do this. I don't think it's necessary for enjoying it anyway, just means I'll get burnt off by sport climbers!
- Consider day trip-able DWS options around North Wales (driving from Shropshire):
*Nant Gwrtheyrn and maybe more Lleyn potential
*Various Orme bits
*Penmon and maybe more Anglesey potential
Sort of success. Penmon now seems to lack access and didn't make it to Anglesey at all. Gwrtheyrn was great but has challenging conditions. Orme was scoped out, seems reliable conditions-wise but never climbed on due to failing headgame. Heel Hook Look area looks good but shallow, so you'll want good tides for the top bits of any routes to be safe. Pigeons Cave area looks good and possibly better water but the exit wasn't obvious from where we were stood so I'd want to have that figured out (any beta?) before getting on anything. There are some staples on top which might be handy for an ab rope.
- Rigpa, but subject to pad logistics and finger health.
One good session between finger injuries, but that's all folks!
- Visit some of the "grand full day out" list:
*St Bees
*Sampson's Stones
*Cwm y Foel
*Rhinogau in general
*Howshaw/Back Tor
*Simon's/Lord's Seat
*Great Wolfrey
*Anafon
Not a single one! Had a big day up at the far top end of the Wavelength boulders which hit the experience, bouldering until dusk, sprinting to the car and grabbing a curry before the local house shut for the night.
- Do some exploratory/development days.
I did have a couple, so green may be fair but after the weather went to shit in June I only ever tried established routes like a classic boulder consumer, so orange feels more appropriate. Enjoyed little visits to Bryn Castell and Craig y Wrysgan though.
- Visit some of the "why haven't I been here yet" list:
*Pac-Man Boulders
*Cwm Glas Bach
*Carreg y Foel Gron
*Llyn Celyn
*Wimberry
*Wolf Edge
*Secret Garden
Only visited Cwm Glas Bach, and that wasn't particularly comprehensive anyway. I did go to a fair few new places this year which weren't on the list, so I'm not too disappointed with orange.
- Revisit some of the "got all or most of the moves done so could be a goer" problems:
*The Mentalist
*Lizard King
*Harvey Oswald SDS
*Cosmic Wheels
*Hannibal
*Severus Snape
*Brass Monkeys
*Cruella
*Grasswind
*Bad Moon Rising
*The Captain
*Old King Cascade
*Suavito
*Cholesterol Traverse
*Beef Growler
Fuck it, I'll give myself green for this one. In a year where I've been working around injury so much, and considering how much I normally like to go to new venues rather than the same ones anyway, I think I've done rather well to round off two pretty hard things. Harvey SDS will have to wait further, but it dries dead quickly and is super accessible. Bit minging on the skin though...
It's been an interesting year indeed...
kingholmesy
Well-Known Member
duncan said:
Andromeda Strain was less scary than expected. Some big runouts above iffy gear, but relatively easy climbing. Great positions and moves up that huge slab too - recommended.
I’ve been to try Il Duce three times already now! Fell off on my first visit and had to retreat, and was soaking wet on my second and third visits. I’ll keep persevering!
BTW - did we meet in passing at Bosi this summer? I was down there soloing with a friend and I think it might have been you that sent some photos to me via WhatsApp afterwards?
Bit of a shambles of a year! Post-Covid symptoms for the first two months (unpleasant, but not too bad in comparison to what came next), a few decent months of recovering and getting some fitness back then 6 months of post-viral symptoms that seemed to be set off by a cold. Terrible sleep, rundown, persistent headaches and debilitating tiredness in response to exercise. Started to ease after 3 months and climbing is almost back to normal now, running still below par but at least it's improving.
Climbing :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. Do more stuff on a rope.2021 2022 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing). About the same as last year.
[*]2. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - failed at this in recent years so need to make more effort before the wet Autumn weather writes the season off and I scuttle back indoors. I'll put a number on it to try and make it more specific - 10 problems F7B and above. Tried nothing hard, see above.
[*]3. Have a weekend away somewhere - I was promised one for last year's birthday that never happened, just need to make some work headspace and get something booked in. Make the effort to meet up with friends more, rather than going solo all the time. Weekend in the County in November. No ticks of note but great to be there. Also made more effort to climb with a few folk locally.
[*]4. Some arbitrary numbers - 20 new problems F7A and above, 5 new (to me) crags. Very few new 7s, about 5 I think, but did manage the 5 new crags - Grasshopper Ridge and Farley Woods in the Churnet, Church Crag, Carrhead Rocks, Back Bowden, White Edge.
[/list]
Running :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. 2 PBs on the road - still feel like my 10k time lags behind the rest of my PBs by about 30/45 seconds, so keen to right that wrong. Also another HM effort. 10-mile PB would be a gimme if ever entered another! See above, only races I did were on the fells in the few months of not being f**ked.
[*]2. Train a bit more specifically for the fells in the spring and see what happens in English Champs and club champs races from May onwards Won vets' prizes at a few local races in May, felt ready to push on with some targets in the second half of the year and then spent 6 months in a deep, dark hole (metaphorically speaking).
[*]3. Some arbitrary numbers - 50+ Oxstones runs to/from home, 30+ different trig points. Hit the Oxstones target (53 currently), nowhere near on the trigs (20) due to 4-5 months of doing very little.
[/list]
Life :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. Finish off house projects - just the kitchen to go once the decking/garden get done in the new year. Decking done, calamitous roof failure meant the kitchen got postponed as we needed a new roof.
[*]2. Make more time to spend with my wife and without the kids. Do something nice for her 40th.Post-viral symptoms over the summer meant I didn't have the energy to do much. We did manage a spa day for my wife's birthday and have been making the effort to get out for meals without the kids, despite it being awkward at times.
[/list]
Climbing :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. Do more stuff on a rope.
[*]2. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - failed at this in recent years so need to make more effort before the wet Autumn weather writes the season off and I scuttle back indoors. I'll put a number on it to try and make it more specific - 10 problems F7B and above. Tried nothing hard, see above.
[*]3. Have a weekend away somewhere - I was promised one for last year's birthday that never happened, just need to make some work headspace and get something booked in. Make the effort to meet up with friends more, rather than going solo all the time. Weekend in the County in November. No ticks of note but great to be there. Also made more effort to climb with a few folk locally.
[*]4. Some arbitrary numbers - 20 new problems F7A and above, 5 new (to me) crags. Very few new 7s, about 5 I think, but did manage the 5 new crags - Grasshopper Ridge and Farley Woods in the Churnet, Church Crag, Carrhead Rocks, Back Bowden, White Edge.
[/list]
Running :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. 2 PBs on the road - still feel like my 10k time lags behind the rest of my PBs by about 30/45 seconds, so keen to right that wrong. Also another HM effort. 10-mile PB would be a gimme if ever entered another! See above, only races I did were on the fells in the few months of not being f**ked.
[*]2. Train a bit more specifically for the fells in the spring and see what happens in English Champs and club champs races from May onwards Won vets' prizes at a few local races in May, felt ready to push on with some targets in the second half of the year and then spent 6 months in a deep, dark hole (metaphorically speaking).
[*]3. Some arbitrary numbers - 50+ Oxstones runs to/from home, 30+ different trig points. Hit the Oxstones target (53 currently), nowhere near on the trigs (20) due to 4-5 months of doing very little.
[/list]
Life :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. Finish off house projects - just the kitchen to go once the decking/garden get done in the new year. Decking done, calamitous roof failure meant the kitchen got postponed as we needed a new roof.
[*]2. Make more time to spend with my wife and without the kids. Do something nice for her 40th.Post-viral symptoms over the summer meant I didn't have the energy to do much. We did manage a spa day for my wife's birthday and have been making the effort to get out for meals without the kids, despite it being awkward at times.
[/list]
andy moles
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2010
- Messages
- 713
Only one significant update on my six month review...
Climbing specific
Finish local E8 proj
Succeeded in April, 3rd ascent of The Rising Son. Enjoyed this more than any route project I've done, and won't be disappointed if it's the highpoint of my headpointing career - suited me perfectly, both in style of climbing and in being so close to my house.
At least one boulder problem =>7C
Got to the arete on Jerry's Roof on second or third session, but tweaked a finger in the process (god knows how, I'd warmed up and it's not fingery). Otherwise I think I'd quite likely have done it by now, so I'm optimistic for the autumn. Got it done in the autumn as hoped, just before I went to Antarctica and all climbing ceased.
5 sport routes in the 7c-8a range
If I can count Rising Son I might still have a slim chance, but this is looking very unlikely. Not getting away for a trip in January as planned didn't help, and the sore finger doesn't help either. I also just can't bring myself to focus on sport projects in North Wales in summer (neither slate nor the coastal limestone suit or inspire me), or to have projects that aren't close to home (unless I'm on a committed sport trip, which I tend to do only in the winter). I've defaulted to doing the sort of thing I'm naturally drawn to instead and I've been enjoying it, which I guess is ultimately better than ticking a set goal anyway. No change here, did almost no sport climbing this year.
Maintain some condition through the winter season (i.e. wall or board twice a week, assuming opportunities to climb outside don't happen)
Very pleased to have kept this up, by setting a fairly low but realistic target to fit around tiring work.
Sailing trip to Norway (subsidiary aim to climb one or two new routes)
Wap-waa. After a rewarding but challenging test week in the Small Isles, I/we essentially chickened out of crossing the North Sea and spending three weeks on a small boat. Psyched for more island-hopping boat adventures in future though.
Non-climbing specific
Stretch upper body every time I go climbing
Have lapsed a little at times but not doing too badly
Stretch lower body every day (will not count this a fail if it's not literally every day, but aim to get close)
As above, need to get back to standards of the first three months when I was doing really well
andy moles said:
Climbing specific
Finish local E8 proj
Succeeded in April, 3rd ascent of The Rising Son. Enjoyed this more than any route project I've done, and won't be disappointed if it's the highpoint of my headpointing career - suited me perfectly, both in style of climbing and in being so close to my house.
At least one boulder problem =>7C
5 sport routes in the 7c-8a range
Maintain some condition through the winter season (i.e. wall or board twice a week, assuming opportunities to climb outside don't happen)
Very pleased to have kept this up, by setting a fairly low but realistic target to fit around tiring work.
Sailing trip to Norway (subsidiary aim to climb one or two new routes)
Wap-waa. After a rewarding but challenging test week in the Small Isles, I/we essentially chickened out of crossing the North Sea and spending three weeks on a small boat. Psyched for more island-hopping boat adventures in future though.
Non-climbing specific
Stretch upper body every time I go climbing
Have lapsed a little at times but not doing too badly
Stretch lower body every day (will not count this a fail if it's not literally every day, but aim to get close)
As above, need to get back to standards of the first three months when I was doing really well
Duncan Disorderly
Stealth Punter
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2005
- Messages
- 825
Looking at the deluge outside I doubt there's owt else going on this year so let's ave a look!
Good slew of greens again this year - actually managed to get on hard stuff and somehow actually did some of it! Pretty pleased looking back! Life goals weren't too shabby either - time to put together 2024's list now!
Seemed to not find as many F7b's that piqued my interest or I had a chance to get on but did manage a cheeky onsight of Arvanitakis Extension in Leonidio so gonna take the green tick - Had intended to RP but the GF struggled on the warmup so I was aware that I probably only had the one go - was right up my street and felt at the low end of the grade but I'll take it. I did manage to pull off a pretty large rock after the crux which was scary as fuck but still managed to pull it out of the bag - Great!Duncan Disorderly said:
Managed to do Zephyr F7c 1st RP and got on and did all the moves on Myself not a Fish F7c+/F8a - YYFY! Did also snatch defeat from the jaws of victory on Vertigo, another F7c that I couldn't have been closer to without doing so will be going back for that.Duncan Disorderly said:
2 7A's and a 7A+ - Not benchmarks though so I'll take the green tick with a hint of shame (probably 6C+) :-[Duncan Disorderly said:
2 Hard Rock ticks at 2 new crags - The Grooves on Cyrn Las and White Slab on Cloggy - 2 of the best days of my life!Duncan Disorderly said:
Bought flights and ended up binning them as the forecast was atrocious - went to North Wales instead and had one of the best 4 days climbing in years (See above + LPT and Slate - Got spanked!)Duncan Disorderly said:
Tick - Had a month there this year! 2 weeks with the GF, a week on me tod and a week with Energizer bunny and both our daughters - Ace!Duncan Disorderly said:
Leonidio in Feb - Tick!Duncan Disorderly said:
Big fail - Jan to March was sweet as I surfed loads then it all went south - time and commitments meant that swell and availibility never coincided... Arse!Duncan Disorderly said:
A bit - not much tho, would have liked to do more!Duncan Disorderly said:
Work in progress but definitely moving in the right direction - He got 4 GCSE's so big YYFY!Duncan Disorderly said:
Yep! Font and KalymnosDuncan Disorderly said:
Yea - got a new case of golfers but the preexisting ones (shoulder, tennis and hips) are all proper bo!Duncan Disorderly said:
Good slew of greens again this year - actually managed to get on hard stuff and somehow actually did some of it! Pretty pleased looking back! Life goals weren't too shabby either - time to put together 2024's list now!
seankenny said:
Get better from long covid - Have continued to improve throughout the year, except for getting reinfected with covid in September, which put me back, but doesn't seem to have done too much extra short term damage. I have a bunch of drugs from the consultant now and an actual diagnosis, which I don't feel covers everything but it's a start. Still not well, but way better than I was.
Be able to function like a regular human being - Hmmmm no not really, though now I'm very rarely in the vegetative state I endured in the early part of the year. I've been out to eat loads of times this year (couldn't do that in 2022), have met up with friends a bit, have been able to listen to music again.
Work - I wish! Health still too all over the place, concentration improving but still not great.
Walk around - slowly improving. Over the winter I went into central London a couple of times but needed a full on rest day after, in the autum I've done similar but with just a quiet day following. Managed a hospital appointment followed by a visit to the shops afterwards, all in the same morning - unimaginable earlier on in the year. I've stopped shuffling and am back to normal walking.
Do some sort of exercise - I went to the climbing wall for the first time in two years! :strongbench: Major YYFY for me obviously, I cautiously think that short bursts of effort followed by laying around don't exacerbate things too much. Have stretched every day since March 2022. I'm still pacing myself very carefully.
I wouldn't say I'm particularly consistent in anything except for stretching and meditation (which I also do daily, recommend it, again I'm basically microdosing but it's good), but my overall level is both way better than it was at the start of 2023 and still a long way off normal. My mental health has been pretty decent apart from a very dark few days in late summer, but they soon passed, for sure I get frustrated and angry at the state of the world (particularly with respect to long covid funding, don't get me started), but on the other hand, who doesn't get frustrated and cross? As per so many posteres on the "best of 2023" thread, thank fuck for my partner who has basically kept me alive. And thanks to all the friends who make the effort to keep in contact or make the trek to meet up near me.
Climbing
- Limit projecting to 2 or 3 c. 4 week periods in the year -
- Outside of those periods no more than 2 sessions on anything - yeah did both of these, helped that I had the >7B grade chasing goal I think to focus on quicker ticks most of the time, whilst projecting was entirely focused on one problem which remains outstanding! Did a few things in 3/4 sessions which is always a nice zone to be in, albeit most of these were on trips and I don't really count 3 sessions in the space of a week as a project. Also felt like I did fairly well at despatching things, with quite a lot of problems done in a session but towards the end of the session which is always satisfying knowing you don't then have to go back. Helped a lot getting Ben's Groove Sit done in only 2 sessions this year (much more on that in the Best of thread)...
- Long trips to Ireland and Switzerland - spent a month in the Ring of Kerry in Ireland, living close to family whilst I worked remotely and climbed as often as possible. It worked brilliantly, my wife got to spend lots of quality time with her Grandma, my daughter loved getting to know her Great Grandma, and I managed to get out loads and loved the climbing plus didn't completely stuff it at work. There's not actually that much bouldering despite some promising previous reports on here, but what there is is very good, with some truly exceptional rock. The weather was great and I was especially lucky to get in touch with some locals who kindly gave me a tour of a newly discovered area.
Followed that with a month long holiday in Zillertal, Austria! It was brilliant as a family holiday, unfortunately I let high expectations reduce my enjoyment of the climbing early on, but thankfully pulled it round after the first week or so.
- Climb indoors more whilst training, not just on the boards - yep have made a good consistent effort with this whenever I've gone to a wall.
- Warm up on my home board before going out, particularly for projecting - sometimes
- 100 sessions on rock - I'm on 93. Pretty pleased with that. It's not the most efficient thing sometimes but I genuinely think there's no substitute for keeping you moving well than getting on rock regularly. Really thought I'd make the 100 this year but I didn't get out as often as hoped in Austria and then the awful July weather put me even further behind.
- When trying crux moves / sequences, when you stick it climb all the way to the top. Do this at least once a session.
- If you try a move and nearly stick it but fall off, either pull straight back on (if possible) and try to do the next move, or visualise sticking the move and continuing climbing. - done both of these pretty consistently. Absolutely no idea if it helps or not!
- Climb with other people more regularly - this was going brilliantly until I spent two months abroad climbing entirely by myself. Haven't really rectified it since either tbh, but would very much like to.
Grade Chasing
- >50 7B and up - 56
- >15 7C and up - 21
- 8A - 4 - very chuffed with all three of these. I felt like I massively regressed in my climbing during and after the pandemic. With my daughter then arriving everything is harder, so I'm very proud to have been able to recover some ground and essentially get back to where I was in 2019. Gives me real hope for the future.
- 100 Vpoints in a day at Almscliff or Caley - had one attempt at Almscliff on a warm day at the end of August but spent ages on a few things and finished on 74. Went back on a mild blustery day at the end of September and managed 92 in 2.5 hours, which I'm happy with. I'd highly recommend it as a fun thing to do. Every time you do something first go you get a little buzz of elation. I think Almscliff particularly works beautifully for it too as the layout lends itself to the circuit; starting naturally at the area around Morrell's which is a perfect warm up, yet includes Problem Rib which is always incredibly droppable. Move on to the burly steepness at the front of the Virgin and Keel boulders (I didn't actually do the Keel though). A little respite can be found easing up The Matterhorn before more burl on the Egg, after which you arrive at Patta's Arete hoping it doesn't take too much skin! At this point, especially if you're on a clock, it feels like you're never going to make it, but thankfully heading up to Demon Wall gives such a highly concentrated sequence of thoroughly repeatable (as long as Pebble Wall doesn't shut you down) V5-7s that you can make all the time back. I was really hoping to finish with Syrett's Roof so as to top out the crag having done exactly 100 points, but I forgot to do Que Fastido down the bottom and the wind was absolutely howling at the top so the pads wouldn't stay down for more than a second, hence stopping at 92. If anyone's interested happy to share the problem list. Caley next!
Life
- Move house - put our house on the market whilst we were away in May and June. Eventually took it off in September having had one viewing in total. Just not the right time.
- Keep exploring potential to move abroad for an extended period - very much in the 'too hard to even think about' pile atm
- Eat lots of vegetables - ups and downs
Training
- Stick to plan / don't get distracted by going outside - for the most part, although distracted in April trying to get my grit project finished before going away. Meant I never even went to try the problem I was most keen for in Zillertal as I just didn't feel confident. Shall have to go back!
- Do my ex-projects warm up circuit; x4 problems which I've done before but took me ages. One go on each at the start of a session. Current PB is doing 2 of them and dropping last or penultimate moves on the other 2. - best day was doing 3 out of 4 and getting close on the other. Not bad. Have since moved on to some other things.
- Limit projecting to 2 or 3 c. 4 week periods in the year -
- Outside of those periods no more than 2 sessions on anything - yeah did both of these, helped that I had the >7B grade chasing goal I think to focus on quicker ticks most of the time, whilst projecting was entirely focused on one problem which remains outstanding! Did a few things in 3/4 sessions which is always a nice zone to be in, albeit most of these were on trips and I don't really count 3 sessions in the space of a week as a project. Also felt like I did fairly well at despatching things, with quite a lot of problems done in a session but towards the end of the session which is always satisfying knowing you don't then have to go back. Helped a lot getting Ben's Groove Sit done in only 2 sessions this year (much more on that in the Best of thread)...
- Long trips to Ireland and Switzerland - spent a month in the Ring of Kerry in Ireland, living close to family whilst I worked remotely and climbed as often as possible. It worked brilliantly, my wife got to spend lots of quality time with her Grandma, my daughter loved getting to know her Great Grandma, and I managed to get out loads and loved the climbing plus didn't completely stuff it at work. There's not actually that much bouldering despite some promising previous reports on here, but what there is is very good, with some truly exceptional rock. The weather was great and I was especially lucky to get in touch with some locals who kindly gave me a tour of a newly discovered area.
Followed that with a month long holiday in Zillertal, Austria! It was brilliant as a family holiday, unfortunately I let high expectations reduce my enjoyment of the climbing early on, but thankfully pulled it round after the first week or so.
- Climb indoors more whilst training, not just on the boards - yep have made a good consistent effort with this whenever I've gone to a wall.
- Warm up on my home board before going out, particularly for projecting - sometimes
- 100 sessions on rock - I'm on 93. Pretty pleased with that. It's not the most efficient thing sometimes but I genuinely think there's no substitute for keeping you moving well than getting on rock regularly. Really thought I'd make the 100 this year but I didn't get out as often as hoped in Austria and then the awful July weather put me even further behind.
- When trying crux moves / sequences, when you stick it climb all the way to the top. Do this at least once a session.
- If you try a move and nearly stick it but fall off, either pull straight back on (if possible) and try to do the next move, or visualise sticking the move and continuing climbing. - done both of these pretty consistently. Absolutely no idea if it helps or not!
- Climb with other people more regularly - this was going brilliantly until I spent two months abroad climbing entirely by myself. Haven't really rectified it since either tbh, but would very much like to.
Grade Chasing
- >50 7B and up - 56
- >15 7C and up - 21
- 8A - 4 - very chuffed with all three of these. I felt like I massively regressed in my climbing during and after the pandemic. With my daughter then arriving everything is harder, so I'm very proud to have been able to recover some ground and essentially get back to where I was in 2019. Gives me real hope for the future.
- 100 Vpoints in a day at Almscliff or Caley - had one attempt at Almscliff on a warm day at the end of August but spent ages on a few things and finished on 74. Went back on a mild blustery day at the end of September and managed 92 in 2.5 hours, which I'm happy with. I'd highly recommend it as a fun thing to do. Every time you do something first go you get a little buzz of elation. I think Almscliff particularly works beautifully for it too as the layout lends itself to the circuit; starting naturally at the area around Morrell's which is a perfect warm up, yet includes Problem Rib which is always incredibly droppable. Move on to the burly steepness at the front of the Virgin and Keel boulders (I didn't actually do the Keel though). A little respite can be found easing up The Matterhorn before more burl on the Egg, after which you arrive at Patta's Arete hoping it doesn't take too much skin! At this point, especially if you're on a clock, it feels like you're never going to make it, but thankfully heading up to Demon Wall gives such a highly concentrated sequence of thoroughly repeatable (as long as Pebble Wall doesn't shut you down) V5-7s that you can make all the time back. I was really hoping to finish with Syrett's Roof so as to top out the crag having done exactly 100 points, but I forgot to do Que Fastido down the bottom and the wind was absolutely howling at the top so the pads wouldn't stay down for more than a second, hence stopping at 92. If anyone's interested happy to share the problem list. Caley next!
Life
- Move house - put our house on the market whilst we were away in May and June. Eventually took it off in September having had one viewing in total. Just not the right time.
- Keep exploring potential to move abroad for an extended period - very much in the 'too hard to even think about' pile atm
- Eat lots of vegetables - ups and downs
Training
- Stick to plan / don't get distracted by going outside - for the most part, although distracted in April trying to get my grit project finished before going away. Meant I never even went to try the problem I was most keen for in Zillertal as I just didn't feel confident. Shall have to go back!
- Do my ex-projects warm up circuit; x4 problems which I've done before but took me ages. One go on each at the start of a session. Current PB is doing 2 of them and dropping last or penultimate moves on the other 2. - best day was doing 3 out of 4 and getting close on the other. Not bad. Have since moved on to some other things.
HNY all!
CLIMBING:
-Planning on training through Jan and Feb and into March with the aim of hitting Malham in the Spring. Would love to finish off Predator and really want to climb Bat Route. Plan to go on other routes there too to help build fitness and dial into the style again. Had a nice session in the Autumn reacquainting with Bat Route, and it definitely feels doable. Just needs time on it. May get a Euro trip in here somewhere for some fitness and Vit D but work changes mean I can't commit as don't know when I'm on leave yet. Got 2 Winter/Spring Euro trips in which watch great to get back into climbing after 2022 on the bike. Never got up to Malham this year. Partners never really aligned to make the big 6+hrs round trip worthwhile to get projecting.
- Insomnia as a local sport proj. Found how to make the heel beta work in Spring '22 so this should be doable. Had a couple of sessions on it. Didn't do the bottom crux of Broken Dreams. Had one frustrating attempt, and then pulled on from after the move, and set off for a link and did it, so its totally on. Think I mildly tweaked my finger though so didn't get back on it this year.
-Get back to doing more Fr8a's and above. Think I only did 1 ? in 2022. basically cycled most of the year and got weak for climbing. Aim for >10 Tick. Think I did 12, got very close to doing a few more in few goes and didn't go back. Sometimes good training when you don't tick. I felt like I did the Thumb 3 times one day in the summer. Great route that one, keen for the rematch.
-Whilst training this next few months will try to get out locally and want to finish off Sub-Moron (Tom Newman's Fb8a at Grinshill) and maybe the odd day out elsewhere to keep the motivation up. Roof of Baby Buddha, Wonderwall, The Big Smile are all things I need and want to finish off. Did Roof of Baby Buddha and SubMoron-Shropshire Lass and SubMoron-In His Head links. Didn't get back to the others.
- Would love to get to Glen Nevis. Loads of trad I want to do there but would love to get on Stolen. Didn't get there.
-Hopefully carry some form and fitness out of the Spring and just enjoy some good climbing around the country through the summer. I've got loads of trad and sport routes that have been on my wish list for the past few years now. With the kids I've had to manage my expectations better so I will be grateful for just doing anything really, I just want to feel like I've pushed myself. Dream Topping would be a good early one as my Bro wants to do Strawberries. 39 Slaps and Trumpet Blowers on Scimitar. Tried both whilst trying to get used to new TAz Lov. Made good links on Dream Topping. Led it on pre placed kit in 3 sections. To top of Strawbs crack. Then to the good wire halfway up DT, then to the top. Was honestly a bit wigged out to give full beans for a proper attempt, quite intimidating up there, and the weight of not doing much climbing and trad since pre Covid years definetly hasn't helped. Only tried Trumpet Blowers on Taz but super keen to get this finished off in 2024.
-Finish some things on the Slate like Quarryman Groove and Wall Within and Wish You Were Here (Very nearly did this in a sesh in '22 but fell on last tricky move with foot slip, went back week later and it was soaked!). Went on The Medium and nearly did it. Top roped it clean after few tries which was happy with but then fell off on lead tickling the hold, and a few other crap goes. Went back few days later and it was really warm and got on worse. Have a pair of sanded edge shoes at the ready, so now it's on the list of y unfished slate projects.
- I would like to try Unchi Maka on the Sialouze in the French Alps if I can create an opportunity to get out there at the right time with somebody psyched. Would need to have good overall all day crag fitness and be feeling psyched/not afraid for pushing it on a big scary wall out of comfort zone. Didn't go there, think the mentioned lack of volume and trad momentum for not being gripped would have held me back on this this year. Hopefully going to try in summer 2024.
-Couple of routes that I never got back on after getting very close to doing in a session are Supercool and Nemesis so be good to finish these off. Didn't get to them. I did possiby have similar level to when I nearly did Nemesis so thats a positive, but when a few of us were going to head across, the cons report said the cornice was gopping and think that was the Cornice story for much of '23.
-If I get to Pembroke and am feeling fit and have any trad momentum would be keen to try From A Distance and Big in America and more routes in the Leap. Didn't go. And similarly wouldn't have been ready.
LIFE:
-Got a 2 and a 4 year old so I'm always trying to get the balance right of doing my bit at home to maximise time away from the family, and juggling it all with work and being knackered. This has improved loads through 2022.
Generally can climb in Wales most weekdays and also do a longer day away. be good to do some more multi dayers to places like Scotland.
Changing into new role at work so hopeful will have a bit more mental energy to expend on the climbing.-Not committing to any biking this year. I'm sure I'll possibly get out on some rides when the weather is nice, but don't want inflexible legs and bulky thighs so going to keep it causal. Tick to all of the above. Kids getting easier all the time. Job getting better. All gains for the energy pot for climbing.
- Have done a few park runs this winter. Got PB of 17.40 so far (its got a hill in you go up twice). Will try to keep getting this down towards sub 17, (done sub 17 on flat easy treadmill), but only going to train generally by using treadmill in work time. may also do local road 10km. Didn't do any running until the Autumn. Have recently done a 17.36 on treadmill, did 16.58 on same treadmill around time i got the SY parkrun 17.40 so not a million miles off. Didn't realise how much the '22 Cycling aero engine played into running fitness last winter.
Overall happy with getting climbing form back slowly. More trad and general volume required, and also a bit more snap on the board. And need to get the conversion rate up next year, never really got that momentum of getting stuff across the line this year despite getting close on loads of cool stuff. Great fun though so all good. :great:
CLIMBING:
-Planning on training through Jan and Feb and into March with the aim of hitting Malham in the Spring. Would love to finish off Predator and really want to climb Bat Route. Plan to go on other routes there too to help build fitness and dial into the style again. Had a nice session in the Autumn reacquainting with Bat Route, and it definitely feels doable. Just needs time on it. May get a Euro trip in here somewhere for some fitness and Vit D but work changes mean I can't commit as don't know when I'm on leave yet. Got 2 Winter/Spring Euro trips in which watch great to get back into climbing after 2022 on the bike. Never got up to Malham this year. Partners never really aligned to make the big 6+hrs round trip worthwhile to get projecting.
- Insomnia as a local sport proj. Found how to make the heel beta work in Spring '22 so this should be doable. Had a couple of sessions on it. Didn't do the bottom crux of Broken Dreams. Had one frustrating attempt, and then pulled on from after the move, and set off for a link and did it, so its totally on. Think I mildly tweaked my finger though so didn't get back on it this year.
-Get back to doing more Fr8a's and above. Think I only did 1 ? in 2022. basically cycled most of the year and got weak for climbing. Aim for >10 Tick. Think I did 12, got very close to doing a few more in few goes and didn't go back. Sometimes good training when you don't tick. I felt like I did the Thumb 3 times one day in the summer. Great route that one, keen for the rematch.
-Whilst training this next few months will try to get out locally and want to finish off Sub-Moron (Tom Newman's Fb8a at Grinshill) and maybe the odd day out elsewhere to keep the motivation up. Roof of Baby Buddha, Wonderwall, The Big Smile are all things I need and want to finish off. Did Roof of Baby Buddha and SubMoron-Shropshire Lass and SubMoron-In His Head links. Didn't get back to the others.
- Would love to get to Glen Nevis. Loads of trad I want to do there but would love to get on Stolen. Didn't get there.
-Hopefully carry some form and fitness out of the Spring and just enjoy some good climbing around the country through the summer. I've got loads of trad and sport routes that have been on my wish list for the past few years now. With the kids I've had to manage my expectations better so I will be grateful for just doing anything really, I just want to feel like I've pushed myself. Dream Topping would be a good early one as my Bro wants to do Strawberries. 39 Slaps and Trumpet Blowers on Scimitar. Tried both whilst trying to get used to new TAz Lov. Made good links on Dream Topping. Led it on pre placed kit in 3 sections. To top of Strawbs crack. Then to the good wire halfway up DT, then to the top. Was honestly a bit wigged out to give full beans for a proper attempt, quite intimidating up there, and the weight of not doing much climbing and trad since pre Covid years definetly hasn't helped. Only tried Trumpet Blowers on Taz but super keen to get this finished off in 2024.
-Finish some things on the Slate like Quarryman Groove and Wall Within and Wish You Were Here (Very nearly did this in a sesh in '22 but fell on last tricky move with foot slip, went back week later and it was soaked!). Went on The Medium and nearly did it. Top roped it clean after few tries which was happy with but then fell off on lead tickling the hold, and a few other crap goes. Went back few days later and it was really warm and got on worse. Have a pair of sanded edge shoes at the ready, so now it's on the list of y unfished slate projects.
- I would like to try Unchi Maka on the Sialouze in the French Alps if I can create an opportunity to get out there at the right time with somebody psyched. Would need to have good overall all day crag fitness and be feeling psyched/not afraid for pushing it on a big scary wall out of comfort zone. Didn't go there, think the mentioned lack of volume and trad momentum for not being gripped would have held me back on this this year. Hopefully going to try in summer 2024.
-Couple of routes that I never got back on after getting very close to doing in a session are Supercool and Nemesis so be good to finish these off. Didn't get to them. I did possiby have similar level to when I nearly did Nemesis so thats a positive, but when a few of us were going to head across, the cons report said the cornice was gopping and think that was the Cornice story for much of '23.
-If I get to Pembroke and am feeling fit and have any trad momentum would be keen to try From A Distance and Big in America and more routes in the Leap. Didn't go. And similarly wouldn't have been ready.
LIFE:
-Got a 2 and a 4 year old so I'm always trying to get the balance right of doing my bit at home to maximise time away from the family, and juggling it all with work and being knackered. This has improved loads through 2022.
Generally can climb in Wales most weekdays and also do a longer day away. be good to do some more multi dayers to places like Scotland.
Changing into new role at work so hopeful will have a bit more mental energy to expend on the climbing.-Not committing to any biking this year. I'm sure I'll possibly get out on some rides when the weather is nice, but don't want inflexible legs and bulky thighs so going to keep it causal. Tick to all of the above. Kids getting easier all the time. Job getting better. All gains for the energy pot for climbing.
- Have done a few park runs this winter. Got PB of 17.40 so far (its got a hill in you go up twice). Will try to keep getting this down towards sub 17, (done sub 17 on flat easy treadmill), but only going to train generally by using treadmill in work time. may also do local road 10km. Didn't do any running until the Autumn. Have recently done a 17.36 on treadmill, did 16.58 on same treadmill around time i got the SY parkrun 17.40 so not a million miles off. Didn't realise how much the '22 Cycling aero engine played into running fitness last winter.
Overall happy with getting climbing form back slowly. More trad and general volume required, and also a bit more snap on the board. And need to get the conversion rate up next year, never really got that momentum of getting stuff across the line this year despite getting close on loads of cool stuff. Great fun though so all good. :great:
Wil
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2007
- Messages
- 360
Sort out the garden: Dog-proof it with new fences, dig up the drive and replace with lawn, plant a couple of trees, cut the hedge back to manageable proportions.
Sorted a lot of the garden, but things had to be pushed back for various reasons (needing planning permission for the fence due to the layout of our house for one). Final part of dog-proof fence is on its way in the New Year, but we've got a temporary one round the back for the time being.
Get a dog.
Jen has wanted a dog for years and when it came to it she decided she was too excited to have good judgment and I would have to find one for her. We wanted something that was a mix of working breeds. I grew up with (working) Collies and Huntaways and her with (pet) GSD crosses. We've ended up with Hamish, a Lab, Collie, GSD and Komondor cross, who is a ball of bitey energy at 3 months, and a little confused about whether he's herding, guarding or retrieving.
Actually use my fingerboard.
I was pretty good for the first 4 months of the year.
Sport climbing: Silk Purse at Dunkeld is my obvious target. I'd also like to do one of the 7cs at Tunnel Walls and have a play on Axiom.
Made good progress on Silk Purse, but was too busy for proper training over the winter and had nowhere sear the endurance for it. Shoulder injury meant I didn't go back.
Trad: Get a couple of weekends doing big, hardish mountain routes in the E2-5 range. Have a bash at Lady Charlotte and Rat Race at Dunkeld. A trip elsewhere would be good too.
Did hardly any climbing all year and never got my head together for harder trad before taking a rest with injury.
Winter: Bag 3 classic winter routes this season, ideally at new-to-me venues, but I'm not fussy.
Too busy with a course from January to April, and didn't get out at all!
Other: I've been working on plans for a link-up project that I'd like to film if possible. The idea would be to cycle from home (Bridge of Allan) and have a big day in the mountains, inspired by Colin Kirkus's exploits. From here that would mean either cycling to Glen Coe, or more likely doing a link-up of winter routes near Tyndrum, with the whole thing taking probably 3 days. Even better if I can repeat with a summer rock version.
I've made progress on planning a few adventures like this, and had a great day cycling, running and soloing at Beinn a Bhuird in May.
Hopefully, attain fulfilling employment. My bar for this is pretty low after a series of really shitty employers! Simply feeling valued and having prospects for future progress both professionally and in terms of skills would be good. Course to hopefully accelerate this starts in January.
A job was not forthcoming after the course, I managed to get 2 interviews and got good feedback, but one job then didn't actually exist. Feedback from applications has been good, but I'm in the Catch-22 of needing experience to get a job, and only being able to get a job with experience... In the meantime I'm tutoring maths online, mostly A-level, but I'm also doing undergrad maths for scientists and engineers, which is interesting. Low stress and I'm enjoying teaching again. Completed some more work for the SMC integrating their guides with the RF App.
Sorted a lot of the garden, but things had to be pushed back for various reasons (needing planning permission for the fence due to the layout of our house for one). Final part of dog-proof fence is on its way in the New Year, but we've got a temporary one round the back for the time being.
Get a dog.
Jen has wanted a dog for years and when it came to it she decided she was too excited to have good judgment and I would have to find one for her. We wanted something that was a mix of working breeds. I grew up with (working) Collies and Huntaways and her with (pet) GSD crosses. We've ended up with Hamish, a Lab, Collie, GSD and Komondor cross, who is a ball of bitey energy at 3 months, and a little confused about whether he's herding, guarding or retrieving.
Actually use my fingerboard.
I was pretty good for the first 4 months of the year.
Sport climbing: Silk Purse at Dunkeld is my obvious target. I'd also like to do one of the 7cs at Tunnel Walls and have a play on Axiom.
Made good progress on Silk Purse, but was too busy for proper training over the winter and had nowhere sear the endurance for it. Shoulder injury meant I didn't go back.
Trad: Get a couple of weekends doing big, hardish mountain routes in the E2-5 range. Have a bash at Lady Charlotte and Rat Race at Dunkeld. A trip elsewhere would be good too.
Did hardly any climbing all year and never got my head together for harder trad before taking a rest with injury.
Winter: Bag 3 classic winter routes this season, ideally at new-to-me venues, but I'm not fussy.
Too busy with a course from January to April, and didn't get out at all!
Other: I've been working on plans for a link-up project that I'd like to film if possible. The idea would be to cycle from home (Bridge of Allan) and have a big day in the mountains, inspired by Colin Kirkus's exploits. From here that would mean either cycling to Glen Coe, or more likely doing a link-up of winter routes near Tyndrum, with the whole thing taking probably 3 days. Even better if I can repeat with a summer rock version.
I've made progress on planning a few adventures like this, and had a great day cycling, running and soloing at Beinn a Bhuird in May.
Hopefully, attain fulfilling employment. My bar for this is pretty low after a series of really shitty employers! Simply feeling valued and having prospects for future progress both professionally and in terms of skills would be good. Course to hopefully accelerate this starts in January.
A job was not forthcoming after the course, I managed to get 2 interviews and got good feedback, but one job then didn't actually exist. Feedback from applications has been good, but I'm in the Catch-22 of needing experience to get a job, and only being able to get a job with experience... In the meantime I'm tutoring maths online, mostly A-level, but I'm also doing undergrad maths for scientists and engineers, which is interesting. Low stress and I'm enjoying teaching again. Completed some more work for the SMC integrating their guides with the RF App.
- I'll let you be the judge, given the amount of amber and red and the scarcity of green!
Bouldering: Do some cool boulder problems which - despite my proclivity to only do things within my comfort zone - actually take me more than 10 minutes of effort. For example: Darkthrone, Stottie, Blackfoot, The Horn etc.. Did a couple of these, but hardly overcame my tendency to only try things I'll probably do in a session so amber seems fair. To be fair, I was well up for getting stuck into a proj for Winter but I've only been bouldering once so far this season! Stupid weather.
Trad: Fair-style my way up some harder routes. Try hard enough to fall off some / give any onlookers a spectacle. Get committed on some big cliffs. Let’s say half a dozen E6’s / sandbagged E5’s Probably about three, at least one entertaining spectacle and one big committing cliff. Feels like some wins on a technicality but really not enough of the kind of experiences I was really looking for so again I'll have to be happy with an amber
Do some more dirty cracks, culminating in success on the mightily butch (and big spanking from ’22) Circular Saw (E2!) Another session down and still haven't done the bugger!
Sport: Based on previous years’ abject failures, let’s set the bar a bit lower and aim to do a decent pyramid of sport routes back to 8a. Then let’s take it from there, ideally doing more than one and/or reaching a bit higher than that Infuriating! Did 5 7c's, all in a session, then spent sometime trying an 8a+ at the Cornice that then got wet, then had four sessions (spread over August, September, and the middle of October!) on Aberration on which I managed to snatch defeat from the jaws of victory! See biggest spankings in the other thread...
Miscellaneous: Go abroad but continue our personal moratorium on flying Font and Annot!; do a route at Malham (last time was 2013! [roll over goal from last year]); bivvy / wildcamp somewhere cool (roll over goal from last year); climb some choss; climb on slate; do some DWS; visit a Scottish island. - probably the best thing I did this year.
Training: Maintain strength over summer (FB or board, at least weekly); stretch - get better at middle splits Nothing spectacular but pleasing for me.
Non-climbing: soundproof entire house (or at least the bedroom, so our sleep isn’t interrupted by the neighbour having a shouting match with their teenage sons every morning [roll over goal from last year]); depending on money, sort the kitchen; have more friends round for dinner / barbecues in the back garden; continue learning French; read more (I can only think of one book I’ve read since finishing my PhD in 2019!).
Pretty mixed bag overall. I've found a lot of 2023 frustrating in terms of not quite getting things done. Hard to pinpoint exactly why things haven't happened. Perhaps I've been a bit passive in terms of setting up partners and hustling to get on what I really want to do - something to work on in '24
Liamhutch89
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jun 6, 2018
- Messages
- 1,262
Kenzoku. A hard problem that challenges and inspires me, simple as that.
First session of the year I think.
Climb a moderately hard 3 star problem in Wales or The Lakes (cosmic wheels, starshot sit, ???).
Barely climbed outside Yorkshire this year, but I've sought out and climbed a lot of good lines that in my opinion are even better than cosmic wheels or starshot (e.g. Red Alfa, The Waiting Line)
At least 10 sessions on rock with other people. My good mates from Leeds have all emigrated to Australia or the USA over the last few years. Since I work at home and usually climb alone, I rarely interact with other humans outside of my household. Hopefully, achieving this goal will help keep me sane.
Easily.
Something on a rope that takes a few sessions. I have no intention to train endurance, so it will need to be fairly bouldery. Agent Provocateur at WCJ looks good.
Kind of. I've practiced several things on a rope that I've gone on to highball/solo.
5% increase on my max hangs PB.
No idea, I don't do them anymore but my fingers are stronger, so i'm ticking this. It's probably worth saving for another thread but max hang / grade correlations from Lattice and others have negatively affected my training for around 5 years. I now believe it's pretty useless information for an individual climber.
I already have a couple of family holidays booked but I'd like to aim for one trip with mates, whether that's for climbing, surfing or bikes, it doesn't matter.
No climbing, surfing or biking trips.
Get CEng
All done at my end, just waiting on them!
[/quote]
First session of the year I think.
Climb a moderately hard 3 star problem in Wales or The Lakes (cosmic wheels, starshot sit, ???).
Barely climbed outside Yorkshire this year, but I've sought out and climbed a lot of good lines that in my opinion are even better than cosmic wheels or starshot (e.g. Red Alfa, The Waiting Line)
At least 10 sessions on rock with other people. My good mates from Leeds have all emigrated to Australia or the USA over the last few years. Since I work at home and usually climb alone, I rarely interact with other humans outside of my household. Hopefully, achieving this goal will help keep me sane.
Easily.
Something on a rope that takes a few sessions. I have no intention to train endurance, so it will need to be fairly bouldery. Agent Provocateur at WCJ looks good.
Kind of. I've practiced several things on a rope that I've gone on to highball/solo.
5% increase on my max hangs PB.
No idea, I don't do them anymore but my fingers are stronger, so i'm ticking this. It's probably worth saving for another thread but max hang / grade correlations from Lattice and others have negatively affected my training for around 5 years. I now believe it's pretty useless information for an individual climber.
I already have a couple of family holidays booked but I'd like to aim for one trip with mates, whether that's for climbing, surfing or bikes, it doesn't matter.
No climbing, surfing or biking trips.
Get CEng
All done at my end, just waiting on them!
[/quote]
yetix said:
Ended up doing 30 odd 7C and 2 8As, didn't get chance to go back to a few things but also probably overstretched myself having 4 8s that I ended up having in very overlapping halves each to go back to next year and a bunch more I did all the moves on.
Hopes I'd get one more chance to close this off today but the weather didn't allow for it.
Nice work everybody with green on here. :thumbsup:
Up until the middle of the year I was on track and pretty confident of ticking almost all of these but getting really sick for a few weeks in the summer (didn’t have long Covid or anything but it took a while to get back in the saddle climbing-wise, mentally more than physically) and the unexpected resolution in late November of a “conveyancing issue” that had been rumbling on all year meant that it all went out of the window while we bought a house and moved our stuff into it. That’s not the sort of goal I write about on here but it’s bigger than all these in a way so I’m not disappointed at all ;D
climb my remaining 11 (for want of a better term) bogey routes
To recap, my definition of a “bogey route” was a trad climb I’d failed to lead clean on more than one occasion. I’ve actually ended 2023 with only 1 less than I started it with :lol: I did tick off 5 of the original list though (and it felt great each time I did), I just added 4 more… I didn’t take into account that I have lots of routes that I’ve tried and failed on once and giving some of those another shot increased the list. If I’d have been really focused on this goal I could have not tried any of those routes and been more proactive in getting partners to belay me on the ones on the list that I didn’t try but while last winter I thought it would be really useful for my climbing to tick this aim it didn’t feel that important once I actually got out climbing again in the spring.
Best trad year ever. (27+ HVSs, 7+ E1s & 2+ E2s)
Ticked the HVSs easily (well into the thirties by the end) and the E1s without too much bother (I managed 8, they were feeling pretty routine by the end of the season and I did a few tough ones) but while I did attempt some E2s on the sharp end, I wasn’t successful.
This means that I equalled 2012 (when I set those totals of the first two grades but had yet to lead E2) but not 2014 or 2017 (when I did nothing like that trad volume but got up two E2s) so it’s an orange one overall. The full tick remains for 2024!
300+ days leg stretches.
Boom, did this. 301 days. Regard me
Did 328 days of upper body stretching and stretched my back on 209 days too. Made loads of progress in my range of movement, back to what feels like pre-accident levels now, and I think the fact that I completely cleared up last winter’s shoulder and elbow gripes and didn’t get any more injuries is partly down to this too. Moving house has meant that I’ve barely stretched for a month though so need to get back on it.
39+ days with a fingerboard session
29 in total. Did 19 sessions between January and April with 20 saved for September- December so I was on track. However moving meant that fingerboarding fell by the wayside… and now it’s not even on a wall. :spank:
Repeat my strength PBs
This is a list of 39 PBs that I dredged from my training diaries back when I couldn’t walk. Every year I try and repeat them all. In 2023 I got to within 5 and ticked a few that I hadn’t done since my accident (only 2 remain in this category) so while this is another that suffered from lack of attention at the end of the year, it’s doable in 2024.
10+ days on high moors or mountain crags
11 in total. Mostly moorland grit but some mountain days in there too and I haven’t counted days hiking or scrambling, only ones with roped climbing involved. Best ever year for this :2thumbsup:
Take more photos than just action & landscape
Yeah, just about. Didn’t get great results but did make some effort and it’s a nebulous aim so I’m ticking it.
Perfect Ain’t No Stoppin’ Us Now on the bass
There’s always one you don’t even remember isn’t there?! I can definitely play it but I wouldn’t say I’ve perfected it, certainly not enough to do a video as proof which I think was my intention. Towards the end of the year I got more into playing the keyboard and now all my music gear has been packed away for a month!
Up until the middle of the year I was on track and pretty confident of ticking almost all of these but getting really sick for a few weeks in the summer (didn’t have long Covid or anything but it took a while to get back in the saddle climbing-wise, mentally more than physically) and the unexpected resolution in late November of a “conveyancing issue” that had been rumbling on all year meant that it all went out of the window while we bought a house and moved our stuff into it. That’s not the sort of goal I write about on here but it’s bigger than all these in a way so I’m not disappointed at all ;D
climb my remaining 11 (for want of a better term) bogey routes
To recap, my definition of a “bogey route” was a trad climb I’d failed to lead clean on more than one occasion. I’ve actually ended 2023 with only 1 less than I started it with :lol: I did tick off 5 of the original list though (and it felt great each time I did), I just added 4 more… I didn’t take into account that I have lots of routes that I’ve tried and failed on once and giving some of those another shot increased the list. If I’d have been really focused on this goal I could have not tried any of those routes and been more proactive in getting partners to belay me on the ones on the list that I didn’t try but while last winter I thought it would be really useful for my climbing to tick this aim it didn’t feel that important once I actually got out climbing again in the spring.
Best trad year ever. (27+ HVSs, 7+ E1s & 2+ E2s)
Ticked the HVSs easily (well into the thirties by the end) and the E1s without too much bother (I managed 8, they were feeling pretty routine by the end of the season and I did a few tough ones) but while I did attempt some E2s on the sharp end, I wasn’t successful.
This means that I equalled 2012 (when I set those totals of the first two grades but had yet to lead E2) but not 2014 or 2017 (when I did nothing like that trad volume but got up two E2s) so it’s an orange one overall. The full tick remains for 2024!
300+ days leg stretches.
Boom, did this. 301 days. Regard me
Did 328 days of upper body stretching and stretched my back on 209 days too. Made loads of progress in my range of movement, back to what feels like pre-accident levels now, and I think the fact that I completely cleared up last winter’s shoulder and elbow gripes and didn’t get any more injuries is partly down to this too. Moving house has meant that I’ve barely stretched for a month though so need to get back on it.39+ days with a fingerboard session
29 in total. Did 19 sessions between January and April with 20 saved for September- December so I was on track. However moving meant that fingerboarding fell by the wayside… and now it’s not even on a wall. :spank:
Repeat my strength PBs
This is a list of 39 PBs that I dredged from my training diaries back when I couldn’t walk. Every year I try and repeat them all. In 2023 I got to within 5 and ticked a few that I hadn’t done since my accident (only 2 remain in this category) so while this is another that suffered from lack of attention at the end of the year, it’s doable in 2024.
10+ days on high moors or mountain crags
11 in total. Mostly moorland grit but some mountain days in there too and I haven’t counted days hiking or scrambling, only ones with roped climbing involved. Best ever year for this :2thumbsup:
Take more photos than just action & landscape
Yeah, just about. Didn’t get great results but did make some effort and it’s a nebulous aim so I’m ticking it.
Perfect Ain’t No Stoppin’ Us Now on the bass
There’s always one you don’t even remember isn’t there?! I can definitely play it but I wouldn’t say I’ve perfected it, certainly not enough to do a video as proof which I think was my intention. Towards the end of the year I got more into playing the keyboard and now all my music gear has been packed away for a month!
oldfella
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 7, 2005
- Messages
- 775
Final results
Outside Climbing
20+ days outside climbing
Have great family trip to El Chorro
Onsight 6c
Managed to flash 2. No Onsight.
Onsight 6b+ x3
Achieved
Redpoint 7a in a day
No. Took 3 sessions/ 8 tie ins.
Depot Goals
Complete 80% of a purple circui
Achieved
Complete 2 of a yellow circuit - NO
Climb 5 yellows- NO
Flash 10 purples - Yes
Outside Climbing
20+ days outside climbing
Have great family trip to El Chorro
Onsight 6c
Managed to flash 2. No Onsight.
Onsight 6b+ x3
Achieved
Redpoint 7a in a day
No. Took 3 sessions/ 8 tie ins.
Depot Goals
Complete 80% of a purple circui
Achieved
Complete 2 of a yellow circuit - NO
Climb 5 yellows- NO
Flash 10 purples - Yes
Ross.Cooper
Well-Known Member
Best year yet credited to the board and staying uninjured!
Climbing
- 5 V9s
Topped my fifth V9 of the year on the last day of the year - just managed to sneak this in
- V10
YYFY - managed to do three in four, three and two sessions respectively
- Go on at least three trips
Moe's, the South, Roy, Squamish, Joe's. A good year for trips
Training
- Get down to 10% BW assistance hangs on one-arm BM2k slot
Hit 10% on LH, close on RH. Fingers have been tweaky throughout the year but glad to be consistently in the -20 to -25lb range
- Get weight down to 80kg
I did for the summer then bounced back up. On my way down again for a trip to the South at the end of Jan
Climbing
- 5 V9s
Topped my fifth V9 of the year on the last day of the year - just managed to sneak this in
- V10
YYFY - managed to do three in four, three and two sessions respectively
- Go on at least three trips
Moe's, the South, Roy, Squamish, Joe's. A good year for trips
Training
- Get down to 10% BW assistance hangs on one-arm BM2k slot
Hit 10% on LH, close on RH. Fingers have been tweaky throughout the year but glad to be consistently in the -20 to -25lb range
- Get weight down to 80kg
I did for the summer then bounced back up. On my way down again for a trip to the South at the end of Jan
EOY Review
Climbing
Get over finger injury.
Yep, feeling as good as ever (touch wood)
Get a couple of local bouldering projects done.
Can't remember what these referred to, but found and did a few cool new probs
Tick a couple of good established problems repeated (best option being Rankin's new ones at Johnsheugh).
Nope - had one session trying some of the JH ones, but no go,
Get a mountain route or two done.
Nope - trad rack gathering dust
Get some DWS done, some of the longer Murrayheugh routes.
Did some, couple of great days, but didn't do any of the longer routes
Get Kyle leading.
Yep, leading well indoors, getting low 6 leads done consistently. Need to get outdoors now...
Get to some other Scottish bouldering, Strathnairn, Torridon and Dromore
Nope, not climbed outside the shire
Running
PB a road HM (1:38:00 or better). - nope - one HM and blew out
1000 km for the year, (1200 as a stretch goal). Yep, hit 1000 on last day of the year
Not sure what else, maybe a marathon or a trail ultra. nothing
General
Do a CPR / Defib refresher refreshed scout leader 1st aid training, which included defib
Get a couple of local ski tours done no scottish skiing again
Surf more more than last year, but still not loads. Had some great days
Get work needed on house done yes, driveway redone, was the big one!
Get to 50 mark on family Munros (currently 23). Getting trickier as we get the nearby ones ticked off.
LOL, massive fail, did 1. Tricky with daughter now diving on saturdays and swimming on sunday.
Not a bad year, given the person stuff that's gone down I can't complain about what I've managed
Climbing
Get over finger injury.
Yep, feeling as good as ever (touch wood)
Get a couple of local bouldering projects done.
Can't remember what these referred to, but found and did a few cool new probs
Tick a couple of good established problems repeated (best option being Rankin's new ones at Johnsheugh).
Nope - had one session trying some of the JH ones, but no go,
Get a mountain route or two done.
Nope - trad rack gathering dust
Get some DWS done, some of the longer Murrayheugh routes.
Did some, couple of great days, but didn't do any of the longer routes
Get Kyle leading.
Yep, leading well indoors, getting low 6 leads done consistently. Need to get outdoors now...
Get to some other Scottish bouldering, Strathnairn, Torridon and Dromore
Nope, not climbed outside the shire
Running
PB a road HM (1:38:00 or better). - nope - one HM and blew out
1000 km for the year, (1200 as a stretch goal). Yep, hit 1000 on last day of the year
Not sure what else, maybe a marathon or a trail ultra. nothing
General
Do a CPR / Defib refresher refreshed scout leader 1st aid training, which included defib
Get a couple of local ski tours done no scottish skiing again
Surf more more than last year, but still not loads. Had some great days
Get work needed on house done yes, driveway redone, was the big one!
Get to 50 mark on family Munros (currently 23). Getting trickier as we get the nearby ones ticked off.
LOL, massive fail, did 1. Tricky with daughter now diving on saturdays and swimming on sunday.
Not a bad year, given the person stuff that's gone down I can't complain about what I've managed
Yossarian
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Mar 15, 2004
- Messages
- 2,374
I’ve not had a decent season since the end of 2019 / covid, so need to be organised to try to make this a good one.
Climbing
Climb outside more regularly. In 2018-19 I embraced the SE sandstone (mainly shunting routes with a bit of bouldering) and had my best season in years, so going to try to get back to doing this.
Focus on south coast sport for the first part of the year, maybe with a few bouldering days thrown in. Make in a session and flashing the dominant themes, entirely in the interests of getting as much stuff done as possible.
If my standard goes up sufficiently, start travelling a bit further.
Climb with more people off here, get better at networking re other climbing parents with kids similar ages to mine - 11 and 8 - and generally try to have more options for stuff near and far.
Figure out some good trips for the kids. More routes (and get daughter leading regularly and up into the 7s (which she’s more than capable of). An Easter or summer bouldering trip somewhere fun.
Went to Font twice, plus Switzerland. Didn't achieve a vast amount, but kids and I had fun.
Get on some trad too, but try to keep it productive and fun vs getting freaked out at Swanage and then locking my gear in a cupboard.
Training
Lose loads of weight. It’s by far the most significant thing holding me back, and I have a good track record of getting thinner, so just need to get on with it. I think I could probably eventually get into the 70s, but 80-85kg would be a good start.
Yo-yoed back and forth. Eventually gave up worrying about doing this on my own and booked a nutritionist, starting imminently.
Reorganise what I’m doing so part of the week I’m focusing on route-specific stuff, rather than having it in the back of my mind - i.e. train like a route climber who wants to push his bouldering, vs someone who thinks he’s a boulderer who occasionally gets distracted by other things.
Get better at using the 40deg boardfor route specific stuff, inc 4x4s and 20kg move type things.
Board syke was one of the main highlights of the year. Had vastly more fun / made more progress doing that than everything else.
Set and work towards various strength-related goals (147, 1 arm pull up, BM slot hang, etc) because they’re simple targets that would be nice to tick off.
Was doing pretty well with a Gus-style fridge ticklist of this stuff, until my attention got diverted in the autumn.
Work consistently on flexibility, which is currently in a fairly shit state of affairs.
Orange, but right at the very far end nearest red.
Finger strength is not a weakness, but I do still want to get back to consistent fingerboarding as it’s nice seeing numbers progressing vs the lucky dip of achieving it via board climbing. Also I think I need to do more drag training.
Hardly did any.
Life
Finish work-in-progress books, script, and generally work hard to hopefully avoid having to return to conventional employment.
Finished a TV script which has taken 18 months, though most of it came together over November and December, during which time I completely forgot about climbing, sometimes forgot I had children, worked through quite a few nights (twice in a row on one occasion, because I was having so much fun), and finally sent it off shortly before arriving in Ticino, where I arrived almost perfectly de-trained. Fingers crossed.
Also avoided any conventional employment, deleted my LinkedIn, and have a couple of backup projects underway to hopefully keep things ticking over...
Climbing
Climb outside more regularly. In 2018-19 I embraced the SE sandstone (mainly shunting routes with a bit of bouldering) and had my best season in years, so going to try to get back to doing this.
Focus on south coast sport for the first part of the year, maybe with a few bouldering days thrown in. Make in a session and flashing the dominant themes, entirely in the interests of getting as much stuff done as possible.
If my standard goes up sufficiently, start travelling a bit further.
Climb with more people off here, get better at networking re other climbing parents with kids similar ages to mine - 11 and 8 - and generally try to have more options for stuff near and far.
Figure out some good trips for the kids. More routes (and get daughter leading regularly and up into the 7s (which she’s more than capable of). An Easter or summer bouldering trip somewhere fun.
Went to Font twice, plus Switzerland. Didn't achieve a vast amount, but kids and I had fun.
Get on some trad too, but try to keep it productive and fun vs getting freaked out at Swanage and then locking my gear in a cupboard.
Training
Lose loads of weight. It’s by far the most significant thing holding me back, and I have a good track record of getting thinner, so just need to get on with it. I think I could probably eventually get into the 70s, but 80-85kg would be a good start.
Yo-yoed back and forth. Eventually gave up worrying about doing this on my own and booked a nutritionist, starting imminently.
Reorganise what I’m doing so part of the week I’m focusing on route-specific stuff, rather than having it in the back of my mind - i.e. train like a route climber who wants to push his bouldering, vs someone who thinks he’s a boulderer who occasionally gets distracted by other things.
Get better at using the 40deg board
Board syke was one of the main highlights of the year. Had vastly more fun / made more progress doing that than everything else.
Set and work towards various strength-related goals (147, 1 arm pull up, BM slot hang, etc) because they’re simple targets that would be nice to tick off.
Was doing pretty well with a Gus-style fridge ticklist of this stuff, until my attention got diverted in the autumn.
Work consistently on flexibility, which is currently in a fairly shit state of affairs.
Orange, but right at the very far end nearest red.
Finger strength is not a weakness, but I do still want to get back to consistent fingerboarding as it’s nice seeing numbers progressing vs the lucky dip of achieving it via board climbing. Also I think I need to do more drag training.
Hardly did any.
Life
Finish work-in-progress books, script, and generally work hard to hopefully avoid having to return to conventional employment.
Finished a TV script which has taken 18 months, though most of it came together over November and December, during which time I completely forgot about climbing, sometimes forgot I had children, worked through quite a few nights (twice in a row on one occasion, because I was having so much fun), and finally sent it off shortly before arriving in Ticino, where I arrived almost perfectly de-trained. Fingers crossed.
Also avoided any conventional employment, deleted my LinkedIn, and have a couple of backup projects underway to hopefully keep things ticking over...
