Aims for 2023
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Last year was a little lacklustre. Plenty of great days out with lots of good banter but no big numbers (for me).
I tend not to focus on one discipline at a time but I'd love to see:
Font 7B
f7c
Onsight E5
Headpoint E6
I've had them all in the past but it feels like a lifetime ago, and I'd love to get there again.
2023 bring it on!!!
I tend not to focus on one discipline at a time but I'd love to see:
Font 7B
f7c
Onsight E5
Headpoint E6
I've had them all in the past but it feels like a lifetime ago, and I'd love to get there again.
2023 bring it on!!!
spidermonkey09
Well-Known Member
1) Unjustified. I've linked the headwall from the big undercut but thats the easy bit! Also need to put a new belay in on it, ideally before the spring.
2) The Groove (again!)
3) Cashmere Cat
4) Font 8A?
5) Get new bathroom in the house.
6) Enjoy having a dog but still go climbing; basically make him good to take to the crag.
7) Set up PhD for the final year push in 2024.
2) The Groove (again!)
3) Cashmere Cat
4) Font 8A?
5) Get new bathroom in the house.
6) Enjoy having a dog but still go climbing; basically make him good to take to the crag.
7) Set up PhD for the final year push in 2024.
Hoseyb
Well-Known Member
For the following year I wish to avoid any unessential injuries, climb with friends and climb some nice boulders in an off piste setting.
I'd also like to succeed in climbing the 2 projects I was close to doing this time last year, and find another amazing crack boulder to compliment the 2 that fiend found me to convalesce on.
I'd also like to succeed in climbing the 2 projects I was close to doing this time last year, and find another amazing crack boulder to compliment the 2 that fiend found me to convalesce on.
I didn't set any goals last year and ended up a feeling a little bit aimless at times. This wasn't necessarily a bad thing, but I feel like having a bit more focus in 2023.
At least 3 of the following existing projects. These range from having had a brief play, to having had 4-5 sessions on and repeatedly falling at the chains. *Cough* Biological *Cough*.
Canyonlands, Devil's Gorge
Nanabozho, Llanddulas
Broken Dreams, Dinbren
Bad Bad Boy, LPT
Biological Need, Kinsey
Herbie, Malham
At least 1 of the harder routes I've had my eye on. This list may evolve if other stuff takes my eye.
Hades, Devil's Gorge
Statement of Youth, LPT
Insomnia, Dinbren
Beat last year's record of 5 trad routes.
20 boulders 7A+ and above.
At least 3 of the following existing projects. These range from having had a brief play, to having had 4-5 sessions on and repeatedly falling at the chains. *Cough* Biological *Cough*.
Canyonlands, Devil's Gorge
Nanabozho, Llanddulas
Broken Dreams, Dinbren
Bad Bad Boy, LPT
Biological Need, Kinsey
Herbie, Malham
At least 1 of the harder routes I've had my eye on. This list may evolve if other stuff takes my eye.
Hades, Devil's Gorge
Statement of Youth, LPT
Insomnia, Dinbren
Beat last year's record of 5 trad routes.
20 boulders 7A+ and above.
Wil
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2007
- Messages
- 360
Sort out the garden: Dog-proof it with new fences, dig up the drive and replace with lawn, plant a couple of trees, cut the hedge back to manageable proportions.
Get a dog.
Actually use my fingerboard.
Sport climbing: Silk Purse at Dunkeld is my obvious target. I'd also like to do one of the 7cs at Tunnel Walls and have a play on Axiom.
Trad: Get a couple of weekends doing big, hardish mountain routes in the E2-5 range. Have a bash at Lady Charlotte and Rat Race at Dunkeld. A trip elsewhere would be good too.
Winter: Bag 3 classic winter routes this season, ideally at new-to-me venues, but I'm not fussy.
Other: I've been working on plans for a link-up project that I'd like to film if possible. The idea would be to cycle from home (Bridge of Allan) and have a big day in the mountains, inspired by Colin Kirkus's exploits. From here that would mean either cycling to Glen Coe, or more likely doing a link-up of winter routes near Tyndrum, with the whole thing taking probably 3 days. Even better if I can repeat with a summer rock version.
Hopefully, attain fulfilling employment. My bar for this is pretty low after a series of really shitty employers! Simply feeling valued and having prospects for future progress both professionally and in terms of skills would be good. Course to hopefully accelerate this starts in January.
Get a dog.
Actually use my fingerboard.
Sport climbing: Silk Purse at Dunkeld is my obvious target. I'd also like to do one of the 7cs at Tunnel Walls and have a play on Axiom.
Trad: Get a couple of weekends doing big, hardish mountain routes in the E2-5 range. Have a bash at Lady Charlotte and Rat Race at Dunkeld. A trip elsewhere would be good too.
Winter: Bag 3 classic winter routes this season, ideally at new-to-me venues, but I'm not fussy.
Other: I've been working on plans for a link-up project that I'd like to film if possible. The idea would be to cycle from home (Bridge of Allan) and have a big day in the mountains, inspired by Colin Kirkus's exploits. From here that would mean either cycling to Glen Coe, or more likely doing a link-up of winter routes near Tyndrum, with the whole thing taking probably 3 days. Even better if I can repeat with a summer rock version.
Hopefully, attain fulfilling employment. My bar for this is pretty low after a series of really shitty employers! Simply feeling valued and having prospects for future progress both professionally and in terms of skills would be good. Course to hopefully accelerate this starts in January.
Andy F
Ex-ex-climber
Keeping it simple and achievable as usual.
Sport: 7b+, anything harder is a bonus (which means I'll end up trying an 8a).
Bouldering: actually do some, 7A hopefully.
Trad: who knows? Hopefully Fiend will drag me to the quarries and I'll lead another route. Let's go E2 this time. Ambitious but possibly achievable.
Sport: 7b+, anything harder is a bonus (which means I'll end up trying an 8a).
Bouldering: actually do some, 7A hopefully.
Trad: who knows? Hopefully Fiend will drag me to the quarries and I'll lead another route. Let's go E2 this time. Ambitious but possibly achievable.
kingholmesy
Well-Known Member
Climbing
1. I would be pleased to do any E5 off the list of half a dozen or so South West routes that I always put off trying cos they look too hard and/or scary. Il Duce would be the ultimate, but not sure I will have both the courage and a partner to try it.
2. Climb something decent outside of Devon & Cornwall. Ideally something in the Lllanberis pass, or Gogarth or the Llyn.
Life
3. Get better at jumps on my recently purchased mountain bike, hopefully without smashing myself to pieces.
4. Get promotion at work.
5. Have a family holiday abroad that everyone enjoys.
1. I would be pleased to do any E5 off the list of half a dozen or so South West routes that I always put off trying cos they look too hard and/or scary. Il Duce would be the ultimate, but not sure I will have both the courage and a partner to try it.
2. Climb something decent outside of Devon & Cornwall. Ideally something in the Lllanberis pass, or Gogarth or the Llyn.
Life
3. Get better at jumps on my recently purchased mountain bike, hopefully without smashing myself to pieces.
4. Get promotion at work.
5. Have a family holiday abroad that everyone enjoys.
andy moles
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jul 26, 2010
- Messages
- 713
Ged said:
I skipped that belay, which given the ensuing rope drag in that terrain was possibly no less memorable, in fact I wrote a story about it.
https://www.molehillsclimbing.co.uk/post/culm-undone
(by way of explanation, the Rockfax database at the time did categorise Tintagel as culm)
kingholmesy
Well-Known Member
Ged said:
In my defence I have tried it twice!
On the first attempt about 8 years ago I took a whipper from the roof, smacked my leg pretty bad and had to reverse the first pitch to get out then crawl up the grass slopes.
On the second attempt a year or two later I went back with a rope gun with the plan of getting him to lead the crux pitch but it was soppy wet and he quickly lost enthusiasm for climbing Il Duce or anything else on High Cliff. I’ve not been back since.
Does anyone have any beta for the roof? I remember attempting to monkey straight out using a biggish hold on the face of the small overlap that goes out below the roof (on your left side if you lean straight backwards while under the roof). I had this hold with both hands and then tried to match my right heel onto it, but promptly fell off.
How do people climb this section? Jamming the crack? Using face holds on the little overlap? Heading straight out, or turning to your left and undercutting with feet on the overlap?
It’s been 6 or 7 years since I was down there so my memory of that section might be a bit hazy, but any pointers would be appreciated!
Oh, and did you get any gear in the roof? I didn’t have anything after the top of the crack that you climb to get there.
kingholmesy said:
It took me three visits to get it done. The corner is slow to dry as, although it's a long way above the sea, a decent swell gets funnelled up it. A late afternoon in summer might be a good idea. We were not helped by dawn starts to swerve the entrance charge (my partner at the time thought it morally wrong to pay to climb anywhere ever) and avoid the hassle of writing to English Heritage for a permit. Fortunately this is all a lot more straightforward now.
At the time (the last century, so factor in memory-loss) it felt reasonable for E5 and it is clearly within your powers. A great route and one of the North Cornwall Big Three so an essential tick for the aficionado. The technically hardest bit is the crack up to the roof. After that it felt like E3/4 5b/c territory. I am completely confident I didn't use my heels in any way. If I recall correctly, I turned left and undercutted the roof briskly and gearlessly to the lip then posted myself into the chimney where you get a spectacular hands-off rest and it gets easier. Contradicting this, the photo in Extreme Rock shows gear in the roof and description suggests jams. I don't remember the moves being hard but, as usual with a Pat Littlejohn E5, "a confident approach pays dividends".
Usual running/climbing split for me. Managing the balance is always a challenge, so just being happy with one or the other would be great!
Climbing :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. Do more stuff on a rope.2021 2022 isn't a high bar to beat, but would be good to get back to enjoying routes. Ideally come back from a day on the ropes feeling more physically tired than mentally (a sign of how much by head game has disappeared over the last 3/4 years of minimal route climbing).
[*]2. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - failed at this in recent years so need to make more effort before the wet Autumn weather writes the season off and I scuttle back indoors. I'll put a number on it to try and make it more specific - 10 problems F7B and above.
[*]3. Have a weekend away somewhere - I was promised one for last year's birthday that never happened, just need to make some work headspace and get something booked in. Make the effort to meet up with friends more, rather than going solo all the time.
[*]4. Some arbitrary numbers - 20 new problems F7A and above, 5 new (to me) crags.
[/list]
Running :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. 2 PBs on the road - still feel like my 10k time lags behind the rest of my PBs by about 30/45 seconds, so keen to right that wrong. Also another HM effort. 10-mile PB would be a gimme if ever entered another!
[*]2. Train a bit more specifically for the fells in the spring and see what happens in English Champs and club champs races from May onwards
[*]3. Some arbitrary numbers - 50+ Oxstones runs to/from home, 30+ different trig points.
[/list]
Life :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. Finish off house projects - just the kitchen to go once the decking/garden get done in the new year.
[*]2. Make more time to spend with my wife and without the kids. Do something nice for her 40th.
[/list]
Climbing :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. Do more stuff on a rope.
[*]2. Commit to some hard(er) boulder problems - failed at this in recent years so need to make more effort before the wet Autumn weather writes the season off and I scuttle back indoors. I'll put a number on it to try and make it more specific - 10 problems F7B and above.
[*]3. Have a weekend away somewhere - I was promised one for last year's birthday that never happened, just need to make some work headspace and get something booked in. Make the effort to meet up with friends more, rather than going solo all the time.
[*]4. Some arbitrary numbers - 20 new problems F7A and above, 5 new (to me) crags.
[/list]
Running :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. 2 PBs on the road - still feel like my 10k time lags behind the rest of my PBs by about 30/45 seconds, so keen to right that wrong. Also another HM effort. 10-mile PB would be a gimme if ever entered another!
[*]2. Train a bit more specifically for the fells in the spring and see what happens in English Champs and club champs races from May onwards
[*]3. Some arbitrary numbers - 50+ Oxstones runs to/from home, 30+ different trig points.
[/list]
Life :-
[list type=decimal]
[*]1. Finish off house projects - just the kitchen to go once the decking/garden get done in the new year.
[*]2. Make more time to spend with my wife and without the kids. Do something nice for her 40th.
[/list]
kingholmesy
Well-Known Member
Thanks Duncan, that’s super helpful and has got me psyched to go back.
I found the starting crack a bit pokey but basically ok, then got totally flummoxed by the roof so maybe I was trying a crap sequence. I guess I will have to try again!
It’s the last of the Littlejohn SW big three that I need to complete so I’m pretty keen to get it ticked.
If anyone did the roof differently to Duncan then do pipe up!
I found the starting crack a bit pokey but basically ok, then got totally flummoxed by the roof so maybe I was trying a crap sequence. I guess I will have to try again!
It’s the last of the Littlejohn SW big three that I need to complete so I’m pretty keen to get it ticked.
If anyone did the roof differently to Duncan then do pipe up!
Get better from long covid, ie be able to function like a regular human being. This looks like being able to work, walk around, do some sort of exercise at any level. If I can get that done consistently then obviously I’ll be doing some sort of climbing, I will be happy with anything at the moment even just going to the wall.
If I make it to this point any time over the next year then I can think seriously about more tailored goals, let’s see where I’m at in six months.
If I make it to this point any time over the next year then I can think seriously about more tailored goals, let’s see where I’m at in six months.
kingholmesy
Well-Known Member
webbo said:I pulled on the peg like PL.
:lol: If only it was still there!
kingholmesy said:webbo said:I pulled on the peg like PL.
:lol: If only it was still there!
I can't remember, other than thinking it was hard.
The next pitch is great, but I got properly spooked at the belay. Spent about half an hour trying to find anything to belay off at the ledge, and ended up doing the whole "don't fall off" call to partner. I don't know what others have done, but all I found was 1 pretty average sideways big wire a bit above the ledge. Maybe some people move out right to the crack and do a hanging belay? I had run out of sufficient gear to do this. Did there used to be pegs at the belay?
