Best of 2024

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Great write up. Nothing like being burnt off by your past self.
At the time I was working on the guidebook for the North Bothnia I repeated a boulder problem I thought I had not done before. One of the last ones within my abilities in that spot. Took a whole session and I thought it was ludicriously hard for 7A+. Went home and checked my notes. I had done it two years earlier and had written '2nd go, ridiculously easy, never 7A+, soft 7A max'.

There and then I decided to never leave written proofs that I think something is easy, only if I find something hard. (I do not always succeed, but it is a good rule to live by as you age)
 
I had a somewhat inauspicious year which started with a horrible climb out of a really low period that I'd had over the Christmas 2023 period. Then in March, when I was still getting through this I badly shattered a vertebrae which did fortunately have the side effect of sorting out my woeful mental health. I started getting back to doing some seconding a few months later, leading sport routes in the autumn, and bouldering in the year's twilight. In October we moved house which we'd been wanting to do for years; my parents are getting divorced after decades of a monumentally dysfunctional and abusive marriage, with the result that we now spend much more time with one of them. Whereas life is, generally speaking, very cushy, my climbing is in retrograde at a time I would have liked to see it improve.

So it's slim pickings from me.

Top Boulders
Bumlog Millionaire, Stanton In: Font in a nutshell.

Deliverance, Stanage: sussed this out years ago but jacked it in because of sun and crowds. Came back and polished it off (7A+/7B?), then Jim Pope pointed me at Andy Brown's Wall which went in something like 3 goes (same grade as Deliverance?) which was very satisfying. Then I trundled round with him and his crew of Euro Wads. What a lovely lad.

The Art of White Hat Wearing: as described by Jim, we sussed it out move by move, inching higher and higher with each attempt. Then Jim topped it out and, with fingers migrating south on greased holds, I eyed up the last move with Jim peering over the top. "Go on, go on!"

Top Sport
Seventh Toad, Malham: Having struggled with The Highlife for an embarrassing number of sessions, I fell off the move to the finishing jug and couldn't face a repeat, so upstairs we went. This went with a dog (albeit, a long dog as Jim will attest!) and a do. If this is high in the grade then The Highlife must be hard 7c.
 
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Bloody loved trying to climb as much as possible this year. I felt like my psyche stayed pretty high all year, and for the first year in a while I felt like a climber again, and got a better balance of climbing/life/work. The rain definitely didn't help though.

Bouldering:
Didn't do much bouldering. This mean't I didn't put any time in to trying an 8A or harder, but did tick over with a few 7c's in a session such as Tusk, Bara Brith Low and Be Ruthless. I've also upped my board climbing through the autumn/winter and feel likeI have a good base now coming into 2025.

Trad:
I had big goals for getting back into trad this year, with various head point projects and to try to get back on sighting some more E5's. An early route I wanted to get finished off was Eye of the Tiger, but I had a disappointing Spring day trip heading over there to find all of the illegitimate fixed gear had been removed. This made it a fair bit more of a mission than I had time for, or the gear for. This burst my psyche bubble a bit for the faffy stuff and I generally drifted more towards sport for the rest of the year.
I did have a weekend to Pembroke, and was hoping this would kickstart the E5 o.s campaign. I did an E4 Olive Branch one morning and felt great on it, so thought I'd go and try an E5 that afternoon. Long story short, got my ass kicked trying to climb Losing Control in Ramming Hole. This has been on the list after it had a bit of a resurgence a few years back with quite a few ascents over two periods, some claiming it to be up there with the best. I only went on it armed with the CC guide description. I have come to conclude after seeing various pics and having spoken to people who climbed it during those periods, that what was climbed wasn't Losing Control, as per the CC guide, but more a hybrid of a few routes on the wall. I think the line described in the CC guide would be a bit harsh at E5. An epic ensued involving jumaring the free hanging ab rope with loose blocks above...
I did keep a bit of trad psyche going and on one of the few short hot spells, went and climbed The Skull. I thought this was a fairly full value adventure route. Probably because I am out of touch with trad but I thought as an overall route this could warrant E5. It was physical, dirty and relied on lots of gear behind loose flakes, while you pull on them to move up. I thought the top pitch was amazing though, space bridging with the whole crag in cloud, felt pretty out there.
Another great day I had was at Forwyn. I did Great Wall (how have I not done this before? - awesome!), and whilst waiting for it to stop raining I had a quick top rope on Katie's Delight. One goal for 2024 was to up my conversion rate, and (especially if safe) just get on with trying stuff rather than passing opportunities due to fear of uncertainty. I rapped in again from the top to check all the gear, and then just racked up and got on the lead. It went totally fine, and was really enjoyable. My favourite trad day of the year, and great to get stuff done when most of the crag was soaked.
Another fun day was going with Caff when he did his new fun route in the Moelwyns, Y Tarw. I did it after him. A really fun photogenic line. Super steep and with some big holds where you need them.

Sport:
My aim for the year had been to do >20 8a's. I think I finished on 16, but with no Autumn trips I'm really happy with this. I felt like I climbed some really fun routes along the way.
Metal Gear Soline in St Leger, Soft Option and The Thumb in a day, The Medium, and onsighting an 8a and flashing another in Chulilla (a feat I haven't managed for ~10years) stand out as highlights.
I got close on a fair few others, Al Andalouse, Airshow (dropped basically at last move, after stupidly clipping just before on a clip that I should have skipped), El Calchalote in Chulilllia, desperately trying to get up this on the last day in the sun with fucked skin, but the sweat got the better of me. Tried going up to Malham in October/November seeing as I didn't go abroad, and was chasing 8a's. Had 2 sessions on Raindogs with it dripping for the first few bolts, but tried it anyway and think I dropped it going for the chain 5 times.

It's been great reading everyone else's stories. Psyched for 2025!!
 
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Best 3 boulders
Slablord
, Rivelin. At the arse end of the year made three speculative trips to Rivelin on marginal days for this recent Bonjoy/ Bighands production. Didn’t find it the first time, then found it in the rain, then went back to meet Pete and it rained again. Went for a long walk to the Headstone, back at the car it looked drier, we headed up. Psyche (and friendly competition) levels were very high and it didn’t stand a chance. Thin.
Storm (Dyno) & Splatomatic Ash Head,
Mega day out, great to still be able to flash this stuff.
Bad Moon Rising etc, Thorn Crag
Always great to do a Nige problem, due to massive power loss in recent years stuff like this is now challenging, had to boorow a knee pad, really fun day out though.

Best 3 Trad routes
Mau Mau
, Slate/ Scorpio, Cloggy
A great couple of days in Wales on our annual best job in the world jolly. Andy pointed me at stuff and I shook my way up it. Mega. Need to do more!
Thunder Crack, Ash Head
As El Mo states, one of the best easy routes on grit. Pretty outrageous.
Strapadictomy, Froggatt.
Tried this twenty years back, got the wire stuck half-in, massive flash pump trying to reseat it, threw wires in tree, the end. Was back with Ben again, this time to try to get Nick up it. His attempt didn’t really get going, but mine went great. One of the best.
Other highlights were an amazing evening doing most of the Lawrencefield Pool classics - thanks again Andy, and my annual birthday day out on High Tor with Ben. Amusing to read his account as he did his best to play it down on the day, he was clearly over-gripping from the start though, very amusing! Then we did Darius in one massive pitch, dodged a bullet by finishing direct (no bolt natch) as the groove fell to bits not long after.

Top sea stack first ascent
Stacknacally
, Rathlin.
For the past three years I’ve been working on a big rat eradication project off Northern Ireland. It’s been a bit frustrating not having the freedom to commit more time, meaning I’ve been a bit sidelined as things have progressed, but they did call me back in September as none of the team liked the look of this dramatic last terrain problem. It went ok, typical basalt, bit crappy, two pitches HVS/ MXS with a good moment of terror at the top. Slightly compromised by having to bolt a belay for the team to jug up and down but that’s work for you (and it wasn’t used for my ascent, so there). We left some trail cams and the place was riddled with rats, meaning my second, who was convinced the whole endeavour was pointless, had to eat his hat.
From the summit I noticed the glint of binoculars from a white pickup on the road above, which I knew belonged to an older guy called Liam, and realised we were being watched. Liam’s family go back generations on the island, including the semi-mythical figure of Paddy the Climber, the last and greatest of the long cliff climbing tradition on the island from when eggs and birds were a key part of a subsistence economy. Paddy’s exploits were legion, but Stacknacally had been the one challenge on the island beyond him. After a lengthy de-rig we slogged back up the hill and drove back along the sole road to the village. As we passed Liam’s place, he was waiting at his gate. He had dragged his ancient mother out and was considerably more excited than I was. Hands were shaken, backs were slapped and Liam looked me in the eye and said ‘By God Adam they put a man on the moon fifty years ago, but we had to wait ’til now to see someone atop Stacknacally!’ Which was nice.

Abroad
Not for climbing, two snowboarding trips plus one conference where I ran round a polish limestone quarry.

Sport
Nope. As above I did place a lot of bolts though, to save the planet.

Best mountain days out
Little and North Gullies
, Tryfan. Great lads n’ dads weekend with Jake, Cofe and Pat. Camped at Capel Curig, Moel Siabod day one, glorious weather, Tryfan scramble day 2 in full clag. Great, keen for more.
Stac Pollaidh/ Ben Nevis
Have wanted to get to Assynt for years, did a little road trip with the fam, starting with Ellie’s first proper solo gig at Belladrum, then down the west coast dodging the weather, finished with a great couple of days in North Berwick, who knew? Jake is psyched which is great, but the realisation how few of these we are likely to fit in is sobering.

Top crew days out
Burbage West

Got a call to give some Japanese lads a lift, had a great day watching them and Megos dispatch all the classics.
Ash Head
As Ben said, we basically had the old Leeds crew out minus a couple, plus Jim Pope, doing what we used to do i.e. highball rampage. Highlights were pad-upping Bantam Menace and Shark Attack, and Ben rounded the day off perfectly by burning off Jim. Followed by pub tea and a couple of pints as I wasn’t driving.
Thorn Crag
Again a huge crew for Clm’s birthday, plus loads of kids (mostly his). Great spot, loads of bouldering couple of routes, pub tea.
Cube
Not enough Staffs action last year but still managed a great day at the Roaches with Cofe and Dave. Ended up on the Cube which is always worth the walk.

Other stuff
Snowboarding, mega, powder even. Used my split board, not quite the dream day yet but it’s a start. Orienteering - been doing this with Jake and really enjoying it. At first I thought my navigation might make up for my total lack of running ability, now I realise it can’t, but its still fun especially when it’s rough enough to slow the runners down. Won four Green races, which was a huge boost but only really means I should be running blue or brown. Doing that now, doing less well, knees hurt.
Work and family good, health generally ok. Have had a few days work which I genuinely enjoyed - doing eradication studies and photography - which is great but seems unlikely to expand.

Top spankings
Great Buttress
, Dovestone
Ben and I realised we’d both been doing a bit of running, so he suggested running up to Dovestone and back, and soloing a few routes. Great. Off we went, I was trying to make it an LongSlowDistance-style training run but after two miles Ben said ‘I’ve never run this slowly before’. Staggered up the hill behind him (him- chatting, me- Zone 5) then tried to solo with jelly legs, over-gripping, horrendous, backed off. Jogged back until I had to walk the last bit. Ben did not invite me ‘running’ again.
Have dropped out of the local loop a bit due to them all being full-timers and me being busy, so (even) harder to get out mid week. Strength has evaporated last couple of years.
Back has not been great this autumn so signed up for some physio. After 5 sessions no improvement. Not sure what to do next. Sit down less?
 
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Nice one Ed! I thought the Skull was punchy for E4 also and I was going well at the time… linking the 5c and 6a pitch together felt like low E5 level… top pitch is amazing isn’t it!!
 
As ever a great thread, enjoy reading what everybody has done and also the process of going back through my own year.

Top 3 UK sports routes

UK sport climbing this year was a bit of mixed mag, a poor spring meant it started slowly and I then spent a lot of the summer climbing in new(ish) areas so this list lacks real classics and is more about getting out and enjoying climbing on decent if not great routes. This ended up being pretty good and the routes I've picked are not particularly standout but instead are reminders of good general experiences.

That'll do very nicely 7b(+), Central Buttress, Water-cum-Jolly
Weirdly I'd never climbed at Central Buttress and it's been a great discovey. A good selection of new and rebolted sport routes across the perfect grade range for me in a pleasant setting, peak style climbing (with standard mixed rock quality :) ) but on routes which often have a bit of size and feel to them. With a few different partners we had a bit of midweek scene there usually having the crag to ourselves as we worked our way through the routes.

Could pick a few routes but will go for the new direct start to the re-equipped (or sensibly retro bolted!) That'll Do Nicely, the hardest thing I did in the UK this year, given 7b+ by the first ascensionist before being downgraded by Kristian later in the year. I found it hard and satisfying, an initial friable wall leads to an intense technical first crux section on decent rock followed by a good rest. Some steep moves leads to a second hard section with stiff pulls and a long rockover I fell off a number times followed by a finely positioned steep groove to finish. Enjoyed the process and managed to complete it just before it might have started to get frustrating.

Sweet Misdemeanor 7b, Lime Kiln
Spent a bit of time at the esoteric (and surprisingly popular) Lime Kiln - definitely not the most attractively positioned crag in the peak but access couldn't be easier and the central wall is a surprisingly good looking piece of rock with 3 decent technical and sustained wall climbs.

Sweet Misdemeanor is probably the least good of the 3 but completing it was part of an excellent day. I'd had quick play on it the week before and found the repaired crux fierce and reachy (allegedly a hold had been replaced in the wrong place). Came back with my daughter Amy and a suggestion from her lead some natty footwork which made it a bit more solid. Got through it the next go and then had to try hard on the easier but fingery climbing above which felt much harder after you'd climbed the crux! Day was then made better when Amy redpointed the excellent Popcorn (7a) to its right in typical fashion, cruising the meat of the route, resting for ages on the jug after the crux and then getting her beta slightly wrong and nearly dropping the final easier but awkward moves!

A pint in the very traditional pub who's car park the crag is in finished off the day perfectly.

Clematis 6b+, Llanymynech
Climbed as part of an enjoyable couple of days finishing off the remaining routes on Red Wall (and getting some long routes in before going to Spain) I'm not sure why I hadn't climbed this before. A bit dusty to start but a big and impressive climb for the grade climbing an obvious line with sustained climbing this is definitely worth more than the one star it's given.

Top 3 Spanish Sport Routes

This years trips abroad were both to Chulilla (plus one day in the northern Costa Blanca to avoid rain). I probably should go somewhere else but really enjoy the style of climbing, the number of great routes in the 7s plus easy access and extensive shady crags.

Sex Symbol 7b+, Chulilla
A newish route at the far end of the Pantano area inexplicably given 7c in the guide but a read of the UKC logbook indicated quality techy wall climbing at 7b+ and being lower down hopefully sheltered from the cold winds.

Jay put the gear in and struggled with second crux , coming down unhappy and saying there's no way he can get it in day, despite not having really tried the moves! I had an flash go, the initial easier climbing providing a decent warm up which allowed me to get through the first hard section to a decent rest below the second crux section. Not particularly surprisingly the hard, fingery and committing moves threw me off but with the gear in I could work the moves and then sort out the sustained upper section. Following my efforts Jay decided to come out of his strop and had another go , this time working some sequences for both crux sections. I went for the redpoint next go, did the first techy crux fine, milked the rest , climbed the second crux well enough to enjoy the well positioned finish. The day finished perfectly with Jay completing his turnaround to get a successful redpoint as well.

La Paz Del Borrego 7b, Chulilla
Rastreator y su pedro policia , 7b, Chulilla

I've really started to enjoy Sector Chorreras over the last couple of visits to Chulilla, big tufa routes, sometimes runout and adventurous feeling with a real mix of styles.

La Paz Del Borrego was possibly the best I climbed all year, pretty much onsight
(partner pulled through the first crux and then lowered off before the second), it's a brilliant varied 40m route. I fought hard at the first crux and managed to keep it together to gain a good rest before the next hard section which involved technical and insecure bridging between big tufas. Decent holds followed and while a bit pumped I enjoyed swinging between them to gain the chains for an incredibly satisfying tick of a classic.

Rastreator y su pedro policia was a bit different. On the last day of trip I went up first in windy conditions. The first half provide classic Chorreras climbing, exposed bridging and swinging around on generally decent holds before a blank section requiring hard pulls and accurate foot work to get a decent rest. Above relatively steady climbing leads to the final tufa crack chimney. I'd read the UKC logs which gave some indication of what to expect but from the ground it looked about 20 foot long, how hard could it be?! What transpired was a total battle, four or five bolts of squirming, jamming, chimneying etc etc, at one point I almost wished I'd fallen lower down so I wouldn't have to keep fighting! Even pulling up the rope to clip the belay wasn't a given, forcing a painful jam in which allowed me to get just comfortable enough to finish successfully. I'm sure if you had better skills at this sort stuff it wouldn't be too bad but for me a full body workout and the experience of the trip.

Jay went up next and had an even harder time, coming down he was uncharacteristicly quiet and decided against a redpoint attempt because, to quote his UKC log, the top chimney had left him traumatised and confused!

Top Spankings

Escape Artist, 7a+(b), Central Buttress

Described as a poor route on UKC but the removal of glued on holds left a worthwhile route with hard steep climbing in it's upper section, generally considered to be worth 7b. Sorted out a decent sequence on the first session but didn't have enough left for a redpoint. Expected it to go straight forwardly enough next time but spent the next 3 sessions finding inventive ways to fall off it! Which leads to the next point.

Harder redpoints in general
Had a particularly hard time finishing off redpoints this year, particularly where they had hard(ish) moves high up (as opposed to just stamina plodding) - working on my ability to actually try hard (never a natural strength for me) is definitely on the plan for this winter.

Top mountain day

Enjoyed a few days in Wales with Amy in April. Got some good climbing in the slate quarries but the highlight was a day doing the Bochlywd Horseshoe via Tryfan North Ridge, Bristly Ridge and Y Gribin. One of the best days of a poor spring , bright and cool after a misty start it was pretty close to perfect for Amy's first proper mountain day.
 
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After a lengthy de-rig we slogged back up the hill and drove back along the sole road to the village. As we passed Liam’s place, he was waiting at his gate. He had dragged his ancient mother out and was considerably more excited than I was. Hands were shaken, backs were slapped and Liam looked me in the eye and said ‘By God Adam they put a man on the moon fifty years ago, but we had to wait ’til now to see someone atop Stacknacally!’ Which was nice.
Great story!
 
Fantastic read as always everyone.

Honestly this has been probably the worst year so far for my climbing. Not sure if anyone else gets this but I seem to alternate between good years and bad ones, so with 2023 having been absolutely incredible it probably shouldn't have been a huge surprise that 2024 would be tamer.

To be fair, the first half of the year in hindsight had its moments but overall it's been tough, with my psych for climbing anything at all completely evaporating regularly, even when opportunities presented themselves. For the first time in years I didn't set myself any goals / aims at the start of the year, I stopped writing in my climbing journal and I've climbed outside 5 times in the last 6 months! For context, it's the first time since 2014 I've had less than 90 sessions on rock in the calendar year.

I didn't climb at all outside the UK either, so where last year I could name 5 problems from 4 different countries this year is a far more restrained affair, all from a decent spell between March and June.

Top 5 Boulders
- One Redeeming Feature || Bitholmes Wood - Loved this one, classic UK bouldering being entirely on its own, halfway up a muddy hillside. This was a win on many levels, in part over my ego. Instead of trying to get the 8A tick for Total Redemption I realised that the first move of TR is a horrible lurch, easily the worst move on the block, ORF takes in all the best climbing, is still quite hard (for me) and has the best name. Was very pleased to get it done having struggled the previous year with a bad elbow, not to mention an ego check in that I thought I should find it steady given it fits my style quite well whereas in fact I found it rather tricky.

- Holeshot || Goldsborough Carr - I suspect if you plotted a scatter graph with the number of crag visits on the X axis and pure quality on the Y axis, Goldsborough would be way up in the top left all on its own. It's a stunning venue and Holeshot is one of the best there. The only videos I could find were of people who are either extremely tall, extremely strong or both, so I had to figure it out entirely old school. The sequence I came up with is brilliant but felt quite hard and anti-style for me and I was very pleased to execute it on a simply beautiful day. Probably the high point of the year for me, with the possible exception of....

- Theia || Harter Fell - Having had two previous visits, one of which was rained off early, I'd been itching to get back for years. Finally made it happen booking a family holiday staying in Broughton-in-Furness, and lucked out at the start with a weekend of utterly perfect conditions and my wife and daughter off with friends. Trudged up on my own with two pads and set to work. The moves came together, but every redpoint go felt way off. I could feel myself tiring but dug deep and pulled it out of the bag. Walked down in a daze of satisfaction.

- Aravius Sit || Llyn Coedty - Another out of the way boulder, and what a boulder! Craig, if you're reading, how the hell did you find it?! Found it tough as it has some quite small boxes which I don't really fit into very well, so was pleased to get it executed on a random trip over whilst toying with the idea of moving that way (an idea since abandoned). Again, just about managed to get it over the line before the arms gave in for the day.

- Room to Breathe || Hawkcliffe - The last hard problem I did. Kind of amazing this exists really, an incredible effort from Liam et al to bring it and the rest of the block to life. How many other 40-odd degree gritstone boards are there?! Unfinished business from 2023 where I found the top not only intimidating but surprisingly hard, and the bottom even harder. Liam's unbelievably sustained psych helped drag me back to it and I think what made the difference was finally treating it with some respect yet also committing myself to the process of getting it done. I did the stand one weekend, then the following Sunday returned at 18:00, warmed up, had a punter go dropping the last move, did it and was in the car on the way home at 20:45. About as efficient as I've ever been! Hardest I've climbed on grit in June too although it's nothing like most grit bouldering.

Top Spankings
- Grit proj. Second year in a row on the spankings list. Last time I wrote:

"Last session found some amazing new beta, only for the weather to crap out, so fingers crossed it clears up soon."

I duly had a session on 9th Jan. New beta was excellent, but it was far too cold, the rock absolutely freezing, and I numbed out every time I made it anywhere near the top.

I didn't then manage to get back until 20th April! The weather completely crapped out again. Visited several times throughout that period only to find it wet. Even had one visit where I walked up, thought it was bone, went and got the pads and it was only after I'd set them up that I realised a key undercut was dripping with seepage. First session back was good, went back on the 23rd and had my best ever go, back again on the 26th and was hailed off after warming up, and that was that, summer arrived.

I've always been a siege type climber, happy to put time in on specific things, and I think simply being unable to try it put a massive dent in my overall psyche. I couldn't get excited for anything else, and by the time Autumn came around I'd virtually stopped climbing outside. Not helped by...

- Mental health. All over the place. Don't really have the words. Moving house soon, which I'm hoping will help a lot.
 
Great reading from everyone’s so far!

Top Three Boulders UK
Hanging Arete, Rothley. First time at the crag and was well impressed. I wasn’t really climbing that well (shoulder was in mid-recovery stage, see: Spankings) but days like this mean it (almost) didn’t matter – proper grit arete on lovely sculpted holds

Public Enemy Number 10. Andy Banks will be shaking his head that two of us have put Opencast Arch problems in our ‘best of’ list, and quite a different experience than Rothley: grotty Peak lime, but it did entertain us for several sessions over summer and has a fantasatic view down the Hope Valley. Cool roof climbing with a 270° spin in the roof. I felt just like Barrows…

Klem Fandango, Bamford. A perfectly calibrated challenge for me on the day – tricky enough to make me work for it and high enough to make me really focus. One of the few beautiful crisp days we have had this Autumn / Winter. A classy arete, my favourite.


Top Three Boulders, Fontainebleau
Footrix, Franchard Cuisiniére. Now we’re talking. Somehow I had never been here, but wow – so many great problems to choose from! A wonderful sequence, which I just managed to hold it together one, quickly followed by Joe which made it even better.

Cocktails, f6A, Dre Zinnen. Not exactly a classic problem, but the classic Font experience: took me twenty minutes to do, had to resort to video beta, required me to adjust my notion of what constitutes a foothold. Just prior to this, I had climbed someone none grades harder but an order of magnitude more straightforward.

Renversement Dialectique, Isatis. A classy arete, my favourite. Managed to flash it just after Joe, which made it even better.


Top Three Trad
Moonwind Direct, Craig y Forwen. After the steady (well, adequately steady) start, all I can remember is doing a few moves, getting pumped, doing a few more moves, getting even more pumped, and repeating this for 30m. Amazing rock and positions. A lash for an edge to join the original version. Really close to falling off, maybe more so than ever before.

Lazarus, the Lizard. A proper fight for me, and uncharacteristically, a bit of a cluster! First go I almost committed then thought better of it, got turbo-pumped and almost fell off down-climbing. Never really recovered from this, so my next go up I fell off. Dropped a cam at some point. Third time, through the crux and trying to place the crucial wire by my waist, unable to think straight for the burning in my arms – nay – body, if it hadn’t been for the fear of the fall I would definitely have given up. Still addled with fatigue, when pulling our kit up on the ab rope I managed to drop everything in the sea. As close to falling off as I can ever remember (well, since Moonwind Direct, of course).

Fiery Jack, Burnt Crag. A weekend in the Lakes with an old mate. Sunny, clear, and breezy, feeling like the start of autumn but with enough summer still in the air to be clement. “You had the look of a man who was about to fall off for a very long time” said Dave. I had the feel of a man who was about to fall off for a very long time. I’m astonished that I didn’t. As close as I have ever been to falling off (at least since the Lazarus debacle). You may notice a theme amongst these.


Top Three Kinder Esoteric
The Hunter. Because there is a photo of it in the original On Peak Rck, I had mistakenly assumed that it was regarded as a classic and so it had lurked in my memory banks for the last 25 years as a route to do. In reality, it’s like Higgar Tor meets biscuits that have failed to meet quality control with extra heather. Brittle, run out, scrittle laying on scrittle, and a confusing line. And for those reasons I fucking loved it.

Twice Bitten. This required a scrub and a half, which was handy because there was no way I would have onsighted it without all the knowledge gleaned by spending half an hour on the ab rope hanging next to the crux and feeling the holds. Great moves on a stunning buttress, about as remote as the Peak gets.

AT Arete. Not worth walking up for (although one of it’s neighbours is), but for me this epitomises madcap days on the moors. Me and Deacon on a 5m micro-solo, sharing a tiny ledge at 3m off the ground, taking turns to try the rounded and gritty topout, wanton disregard for safety as we shuffled around each other and the weird Kinder shapes, giggling like idiots.


Top Three DWS
Magical Mystery Tour, Rainbow Bridge, Cave Woman area. Assimilated for the purpose of this list, as really it just feels like one bit memory of having fun above the sea even though it took place on three days over a week. The funniest part was on RB, with Marie (who is 5’ tall) trying to reach between two pockets. The rock just there is impeccable giving only the good pockets and absolutely nothing else. Marie’s armspan was about 6 inches shorter than the span between the holds, so I literally had to grab her arm and pull her across to the next hold whilst she left go with the other hand. She was worried I was going to let go and ditch her in the sea, I was worried she would pull me off my perch – exciting for us both!


Top One Sport
Boob Tube, Jug Holes. Not a big year for sport for me, but this route was memorable for both the fun of the moves (Kalymnos meets a grubby Matlock cave) plus doing with headlamps since it had long got dark already. I’ll use the darkness as my excuse for not seeing that I had stripped the draws out of the 7a top section, and so I had to hang on after the crux for Deacon to toss up a bunch of QDs. Luckily, climbing with fools like me means that this is something he is well practiced at, and so half a dozen arrived in my hands in a perfectly weighted throw.


Top Six Spankings
This should even it out a bit.

Jack Yer Body, Cornwall. An overhanging offwidth, but that’s okay, we’ve got two 5’s and two 6’s and I’ve done this kind of thing before. I know the technique. How wrong can you be?

Three Little Piggies, The Syncline (Llyn). Usually when I climb with my mate Dan, whoever goes up first gets pumped placing all the gear then falls off for the other one of us to get up it, then the other will do it with the benefit of some extra beta. Not this time. I got boxed placing all the kit, Dan smashed it out with the gear it, then I never really recovered enough to put it together despite having my fingertips next to the jug twice!

Fighting Torque, The Cuttings. Shoulda, woulda, coulda. Got really close, could definitely have done it if I hadn’t puntered it, combination of rain and not enough rest days, yada yada yada. Snatched defeat from the jaws of victory.

Blackfoot, Rowsley. Another one I could have done if I had got there in good conditions rather than persisting with trying it on mild and sunny days.

My shoulder. Never really hurt a shoulder before, not because they are strong, just that other links in the chain are weaker. Normally it’s a finger or elbows that give up first. But getting thrown 2m in the air getting out of a choppy sea and landing hard on the sand opened up this whole new injury experience. That was in August. Still in the end phase of recovery now.
 
Best of 2024
What a weird fucking year. In general it felt extraordinarily mediocre but looking back on it I did quite a bit of decent bouldering. Maybe I am finally a UKBoulderer on UKBouldering??

Top Spankings
Worst overall climbing year YET AGAIN - Not much to say about this. 2021 was good until it started coming apart at the end. 2022 was bad. 2023 was worse. For 2024 I'd simultaneously assumed that it couldn't possibly get worse again, yet was totally unsurprised when it did.
Worst trad year ever. - No confidence. No try hard.
Worst sport year ever. - No strength. No fitness. No try hard.
In no fit state for desired trips away - My confidence has been in my arse and my organisation has been in my arse. A few weekends in Pen Llyn was all I could get around to.
Failing to get to grips with Pen Llyn - I set myself a very simple goal - get lots of E2 mileage on Pen Llyn (which I was capable of) and work up to several inspiring E3s on Pen Llyn. An attainable goal with genuine inspiration, that fell to pieces with logistics, lack of confidence, lack of partners, and everything.
Failing to get integrated with Pen Llyn climbing community - I got very excited that there was a dedicated community of locals getting out a lot. It turns out the "local" bit is crucial as although they're friendly once you're out there, it's very hard to be involved when you're 2.5 hours away.
Swapping left arm golfer's elbow for right arm golfer's elbow - It's shit and has made the last 3 months of 2024 and the start of 2025 shit - pushing me further and further away from strength, fitness, and therefore confidence.
Generally gammy shoulders - On and off throughout the year. Not as bad as the GE, but definitely not helping at all. Maybe another decade of rehab and mobility will help??

Top 3 Boulder Problems North Wales Coastal (in the first half of the year)
Epoxy Roxy, 7A, Huslan - One of many great problems on a couple of good days at Huslan. I did the satisfying cranking of Longbow under the watchful eye of Y Bos Maffia and Sprout, but Epoxy Roxy was the one that really sucked me in. A fascinating technique-twister where a lone borehole is both the problem and the solution. So far 3 different methods exist for the crucial handswap, including one of my own.

Tidy Boys, 6C+, Porth Ty Mawr - One of many great problems on a very rare "I Feel Like An Actual Climber" day. I could have picked a few problems here but Tide Boys was the well-named highlight. I rushed to get pad coverage over the rocky boulders with the sea swirling just inches below, powered through a line of good edges and committing top-out in a few goes, moved base camp and 10 minutes later it was a shallow water solo.

Hats Off, 7A, Porth Haeleth - A reassuring surprise at a time when everything was going to shit. A week before I'd been strugging to do the moves on an F7a+, and it turned out the depression from that was simultaenously cause and effect, for when I got back to simple bouldering focus, I did okay. This was fairly inimical to me as it has a straight up power-to-weight lock-off off the deck, making it all the more satisfying, along with the pure high quality.


Top 3 Boulder Problems Lake District (in the first half of the year)
In The Ghetto, 7A, Miterdale - An exceptionally shapely and satisfying boulder in a lovely forest spot - even the walk-in isn't so bad. Tried on a Lancs Lads Lakes trip in the eye of a storm where we had good dry gales both days. The Lancs 7B-8B lot pissed it, I had to come back as an extreme day trip. As good as this problem was, the highlight of the day was finishing by meeting an incredibly cute and fearless mouse, I even got to boop his rump.
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The Face, 6C+, Coppermines - One of many great problems on a perfect conditions day at Coppermines - it turns out that bone dry, cold, crisp conditions are good for mountain rock too :rolleyes: . This took me the most effort for a mere two moves, but those two moves felt as good as ratting gets.

Plumbline, 7A, Warton Pinnacle - An all round nice experience. It felt a slog up to Warton Pinnacle, I can't remember how weak I felt, but I assume it was "weak". A strong chap turned up with a dog and after some retience we bonded over throwing sticks for her, and his psyche helped get me up this very cool problem - my own entertainment was increased by seeing a video showing unspeakably bad beta from an 8A boulderer, hopefully I've corrected that in mine below.

Top 3 Boulder Problems Aretes South East Peak (in the first half of the year)
The Big Push, 6C, Bradley Edge - Three visits in two weeks to one of the best 6B-C mini circuits in the Peak (when in condition) is no hardship. I flashed the irresistable Big Push by the skin of my baws on my first visit - an superb problem even if Goodbye To All that is technically more interesting - but Ogs was there and I was too timid to be a social media slag and video it in front of him. It took me two visits to repeat it to get a wee video. But no hardship....
No Bull, 6C+, Andle Stone - A king line permanently in the shadow of the tick-baggers' Andle Stone Wall - not even Bolehillbilly had done it. After a previous fearful visit, I recced conditions in the morning, found a small plastic dinosaur on top of the boulder, so we came back in the afternoon with all the pads we could muster (mostly small and shitty, but a lot). Mark20 pissed it on the flash, BHB cruised it in a couple of goes with a bit more of a wobble, I grovelled over the top in a state of panicked disbelief. The plastic dinosaur has stayed in my bouldering bag ever since.
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Church Left Hand, 6C, Stanton In The Woods - Like Bradley Edge, SITW was a "3 visits / 2 weeks" venue, and with good reason. Brave the hordes queuing to fail on Bumlog and there's a horde of gems in the woods. Eyes To The Skies with Hacker's excellent new 6C beta was a strong contender, but I got sucked into CLH more - and for me it's got a one-handed bump up the arete which is enough for inclusion!

Top 3 Boulder Problems Other Grit (in the first half of the year)
Bonkers Conkers, 7A, Pule Hill - an R-man special. There are many things I liked about this problem - heading up there a day with lovely winter weather and shitty queasy digestion and finding enough psyche to do the stand, returning in equally lovely weather for the SDS, the rock quality, the exposed position that still only needs a single small pad... But the highlight is that having watched Robin's video, we use all the same holds and do almost every move differently - a technical treasure.
Hump Bumps, 6C+, Nought Bank - As off-piste as it gets for a craglet with one of Yorkshire's most desired ticks 50m away. This problem with it's gritty rock and fickle conditions requires some stoicism but the sheer presence of the boulder and the combination of consistent cranking in the first half and committing cruising in the second made it worth it.
Gypus, 6C+, Almscliffe - If the padstack beneath No Bull was bad enough, this was downright shameful. It's very rare that I'm one of the send-train-bellends, let alone at Almscliffe, but the day was freezing, the bog was frozen, the crag was quiet, and I had a great time. Yet another one unlocked with Hacker beta (a simple thumb squeeze) but the joy of this was holding the tension after the crux with the whole boulder tipping away beneath you.
 
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Top 3 0 Trad Routes
Didn't do enough good trad. Fucking dire.

Top 3 0 Sport Routes
Didn't do enough good sport. Fucking dire.

Top 3 New Routes / Problems
Into The Light, E3/4 5c, Lee Quarry - "I found myself in a very dark place....and couldn't find my way out". Whilst this often sums up my climbing state and mindstate, there are a few bronze linings to sabotaging another climbing year by fatiguing myself in Lancashire quarries - especially finding a handful of genuinely good routes. This is my favourite, it's deviously logical, logically devious, is well balanced, has a cool crux move and a great position for it's height. I've had two other new routes confirmed as "good", let me know what you think of this.

TC MD, 6C+, Porth Ty Mawr - A bonus gift from Pantontino, this had been ballpointed in the draft text script, but unbeknownst to me awaited a rematch whence the crucial undercling was dry. It was for me on a glorious day, and I "repeated" this version - a poorer line but technically more satisfying - and later found it was a FA. Cheers Si - a great finish to a day exploring.

Trojan Gift Horse, 6B+, Wharncliffe - Another generous donation, this time from Bonjoy, whose aims for a hard eliminate up the middle opened the gates for a neat easier problem combining a thin crimpy start and a juggy reachy finish. It all works nicely and fits well into the seemingly endless circuit of great mid-6s in Wharncliffe Woods (see full video).


Well.....despite the mediocrity of it all, I still seem to bloody love climbing when it goes okay. Which is maybe why I'm so bloody grumpy when it's a struggle (i.e. a struggle external to the actual climbing challenge).
 
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Eyes to the Skies is awesome. Presume the crux is still the heart in mouth stretch to the pine needle filled mono above the shocking landing, even with the 6C method (whatever that is...)
 
Hacko's new beta is reaching left to the slopey arete and then bumping to the lip before reaching the mono - see video for Stanton. It's natural, easier, less horribly lurchy / locky / reachy and has a nicer grit "feel" .
 
2024 was pretty up and down. Having largely abandoned doing weekend and day trips in favour of as regular as possible trips to Font with the kids, I'd been quite syked for our Easter trip, but had been fairly distracted in the weeks leading up to it and arrived in less that spectacular shape. So much so that we didn't even bother going to Elephant to try my main project (Envie d'Ailes). But we did go to Rocher des Demoiselles, which has become one of our fave areas / the kids absolutely loved it. Had a fun afternoon at Rempart with Tom de the G, inc getting off the ground but being defeated by the hand-swap on C'etait Demain, falling off Big Boss, and watching Tom sort his beta on Formis Rouge. Last day we were meant to meet Tom and Nik at Buthiers but got massively lost trying to find them at Atomic Playboy (which daughter wanted to try) so we went to Drei Zinnen instead which was glorious. Didn't manage to finish off Bifurcation (tho wasn't miles off) and then there was an almighty thunderstorm just as we were leaving.

Went home, finished building my board, the erecting of which (on my own) inc probably the heaviest thing I've ever lifted, and have been left with quite a big scar from dropping it on myself at one point.

Started training like a mad thing in preparation for two summer Font trips, but overdid it and within a couple of months I had crippling golfer's elbow in my right arm. Took my son out anyway, but I barely pulled on. he had a fun time though, and we did some of the sentiers bleu (the Demoiselles one is so good) plus a great day in Paris including a lot of boeuf bourguignon and him pretending to be John Wick on the Rue Foyatier steps up to the Sacre Coeur.

Spent the rest of the summer riding bikes, dog walking, sea swims and exploring the coast. Elbow started to sort itself out, and training resumed in the autumn.

Having spent a good chunk of 2023 writing a TV script which I thought was hilariously funny, and despite managing to acquire one of the better TV agents, it was pretty depressing when absolutely nothing happened with it. I'd also been working on and off on a book which had been commissioned in early 2019, but for various boring reasons relating to the publisher being acquired by a big group mid covid that had also stalled, possibly permanently. I spent the middle part of the year toying with setting up a micro publishing house and doing it myself but, having previously experienced slightly heartbreakingly disposing of a few thousand copies of something that had thought like a good idea but hadn't worked out, I thought that if I'm going to put my own money into something that needs to pay the bills, an expensive to produce coffee table book is probably not the wisest choice. So the second half of the year was instead spent rebooting a design project which I'd started work on nearly a decade before which I'd put on hold when I got my first publishing deal, but which I'd never stopped thinking about. All very exciting, went to Portugal in December to visit some manufacturers, and fingers crossed it's going to launch in the next couple of months. Also in December, the publisher finally decided that they still wanted to get the hyper delayed book out next year, so I now have to get that finished by the end of March. So it's going to be a busy year.

Lastly, got a dog in early December. All very exciting, but by day four I was sitting on the floor next to the washing machine in tears thinking I had made the worst decision of my life. Luckily, shortly after that things improved markedly and everything has been fun and games since. I'm really bad about getting outside / fresh air on the days when I really need it (i.e. when I end up sitting in front of a screen for 8 hours straight) and she has been brilliant at both reminding me that it's time to take a break and being an enthusiastic exploration companion.
 
Lastly, got a dog in early December. All very exciting, but by day four I was sitting on the floor next to the washing machine in tears thinking I had made the worst decision of my life.
I was surprised how intense the first few months with our hound were! It all improved quickly, and having an over-enthusiastic adventure buddy is great, even when I just need a pint of milk 🙂

Good luck with the creative projects.
 
Didn't manage to finish off Bifurcation (tho wasn't miles off) and then there was an almighty thunderstorm just as we were leaving.
Getting caught in that thunderstorm almost made my list of top spankings. Younger members* of the team were psyched for 'one more go' :)

*including myself in this category of course
 
2023 was a difficult year for personal reasons I was mainly going through the motions keeping my hand with training and climbing though I’m quite proud I managed to do even that at times. It was therefore even more sweet to get my mojo fully back in 2024 and unexpectedly get back into trad climbing in a way that I hadn’t for 20 years and I experienced some of my all time climbing highs (as well as lows)

Top routes:

Imagine This E2 Giants Pipes, Berneray, Outer Hebrides

Dull name for a great route. The Giants Pipes is a series of grooves of great rock with 2 and 3 pitch routes dropping straight into the sea. ‘Imagine This’ is billed as a variation but is even better than Barra Head Games which is given 4 stars. I unintentionally ran the first two pitches together which was like 4 burly grit HVS’s on top of each other. Last pitch was a bit harder in a spectacular position.

The Pipes:

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Spummin Marvellous E3 5c S Gaps, Caithness

Great name for a great route. After Berneray we took a long trip to the North West of Scotland to get the best ( least worst) of the forecast weather although at first we had to deal with some wild seas. This route was in a lovely little square cut zawn/geo.. Calm sea at last. Should have sought out a warm up. A little greasy and pumpy and out of my trad comfort zone for the first time of the year. Felt like a proper trad climber again. Four star route and four star experience for me.

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Endolphin Rush E3 5c Pabbay

Back out to the islands and this was my favourite. Perfect route, holds and a beautiful position. My only disappointment was that I missed the resident dolphins paying a visit as I was busy climbing.

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Daydream E6 6a High Tor

I’ve had a long relationship with High Tor and put up my first new route there in 1985 whist still a student at Nottingham University. We used to take the 252 bus to Matlock to get there. Never would have dreamt then that I’d still be putting up routes there when I was 60. I’ve added plenty since and was the main writer of the High Tor section of the BMC guide.
High Tor is a complicated crag and it takes an obsessive imagination to pick out new lines which I’ve been scheming over for nearly 40 years. Even so the concept for the first new route only came to me for the very first time in May whilst I was daydreaming in my tent in the rain on Berneray. It would take a rising traverse (the crag is famous for its diagonal routes) across some of the best and hardest routes on the cliff.

Of course it’s only when you start swinging around on a rope that you actually find out whether a line makes any kind of logical sense so it was great to find out that did although it was going to be hard and scary for me.

I used to have a reasonably good head for trad routes for about the first dozen years but subsequently it’s been a struggle to get something close to a trad head in my sporadic attempts to get back into it. I’d had a bit of acclimatising during my three week trip to Scotland getting back into it but that was mainly well within in my comfort zone around E3. Stepping up to E6 was obviously well outside that despite pre-practicing moves and sorting out gear on an ab rope.

On the first lead attempt at it I was so gripped I only managed the first couple of moves before bailing for the day. The next time I pushed the boat out and got through the hardest and scariest section but was too boxed to recover and finish the job. Three days later I was back on it. The forecast was sketchy, I still felt tired despite the rest, the holds felt a bit greasy. Everything was uncertain on the route until the belay.

Big up to Ignas for following. Not everyone is up for a traverse like that.

Crimson Cruiser E5 6a Molwyns

Name coined by Paul Williams IIRC with reference to Ron’s red attire. First and only time in the Molywyn’s for me. Went with Zippy who is always good company. The route is on superb rock with good rests between hard climbing and an exciting runout at the top. My first E5 onsight in about 20 years I think although meant to be a soft one.

Storming E6 6b High Tor

The lower off from the belay of Daydream made me ponder the potential of the wall beneath it. Whilst good in isolation what could logically connect into it? To cut a long (and unfinished) story short it came to light that there was an unclimbed gap on excellent rock that could be connected into a section of a stiff E4 (Decadence). However, the start was really hard centred on a very shallow two finger pocket and I added a bolt to protect it although with a decent landing it could have been done above a pad. The sequence I used was whack and I initially graded it 6c but with Simon Cundy later flashing the start it was confirmed as 6b even if he is a giant.

It took a few sessions of getting through the start and in the end did it with Seb Grieve which was befitting as we climbed together at University and put up our first new routes together there 39 years ago so would be cool to do another one together so long after.
Felt strong warming up and got through the crux first go and got higher than the last session’s attempt but then whilst contemplating a move a handhold suddenly exploded entirely unexpectedly and I was off. Nooooo. Would I have enough left to get through the start again? Shouldn’t have worried, it went at the first attempt. The middle section went steadily but the sun was creeping round all the time and had hit the wall and my eyes as I was gathering myself for the hard final section. Then a passing cloud offered me a silver lining and I dashed up the final hard moves. Relief and joy in equal measure. We finished off with the classic two pitch E2 Delicatessen then went for a celebratory pint at the pub.

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DM me if you want any beta or even a climbing partner for the High Tor routes. I’d love them to get repeated.

Alanvista 7a+ Poo de Cabrales, Picos

Had a 5 week van trip with Sonia taking in Paris, Bordeaux, the Picos and Southern Ireland taking in a couple of marathons (for Sonia) in Paris and Dingle. My big aim was to climb the Naranja de Bulnes with Paul Reeve but unfortunately I got ill in Paris (probably covid) and was out of sorts for a couple of weeks. However, as I started to recover Sonia and I had lovely days out to the coast to a medieval town or the beach returning for a few hours each evening to Poo. It was great to feel better and climb better on each session ending with onsighting what is probably the classic of the crag by the skin on my teeth pulling all the stops out on the top headwall.

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Top spanking

True Grip E56a Cromlech

After my success on Crimson Cruiser I was keen to attempt another E5 onsight attempt on my next trip back to North Wales but didn’t intend it to be this one. It was meant to be an easy day after a long drive but Zippy talked me into it as we driving down the Pass towards the Grochan - he is very persuasive. No knowledge, no warm up and unchalked. Faffed a lot on ramp that leads back into Left Wall and got tired. Felt hard at the top of ramp so guessing I misread it. Ended up lunging for and swinging on the letterbox slot near where it joins Left Wall and fell off fighting to swap hands it. The microcam stripped and was stopped by the gear in the girdle. We reckon I went 50feet. Was very exhilarating and felt like I was 25 again. Fortunately another team was abbing and was able to strip it. Another contender took a slightly longer fall from the same place a couple of weeks later…

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C-anBVFoBU8
 
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