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Best 5+6s in Scotland (Read 5360 times)

andy_e

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Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 09:39:41 am
Inspired by Stew and spurred on by Rob's comments that many easier problems are being missed off these lists, here's one for 5+6s! Clearly I need help, crowdsourcing this one, so give me your top 5+6s (and easier!) in Scotland and I'll add them to the list!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=5385

andy moles

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#1 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 09:54:43 am
Some suggestions, based on my limited experience.

Dumby:
Gorilla
Mestizo
Physical Graffiti
Toto

Glen Nevis:
Maisie Gunn's

Torridon:
Squelch

Kishorn:
Synapse Groove

Reiff in the Woods:
Haven

Reiff:
Earth Shaker

Ardmair:
Changing the Locks

Skye:
Pump up the Jam

Aird Mhighe:
Crystal Voyage

Cummingston:
Masonic Fingershake

andy_e

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#2 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 09:59:54 am
Good start....

Yeah I thought about Masonic Finger Shake but it's a bit eliminate.

Squelch is good but you could populate the list entirely with sub-7s from Torridon!

Pump up the Jam looks horrid.

Fiend

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#3 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:10:20 am
PUTJ is world class and deeply wonderful if you can do HVS 5b jamming, you uncouth oaf.

Afterlife / Half Life @ Garheugh

Brin Done Before @ Brin

Long Winning Streak @ Inchbae

LDV @ Camby

Forever Unfulfilled / Right Arete SS @ Farr

Sheep Pen Groove / Peel's Wall @ Clova

White Matter @ St Bride's Wall

Yukon Afternoon @ Clashfarquar

Put A Sock In It @ Torridon

Pyramid Lip @ Glen Ogle


Edit: haven't actually read the list ofc   ::)



« Last Edit: October 08, 2021, 10:17:09 am by Fiend »

andy_e

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#4 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:13:15 am
you uncouth oaf.

I'll wear that badge with pride

Brin Done Before @ Brin
Long Winning Streak @ Inchbae

Agreed, both were already on the list!

Alex-the-Alex

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#5 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:13:34 am
Ah excellent list creation AndyE. Maybe these need to be hosted on the new bouldering website at some point?

I'm so glad to see Synapse Groove allready. A world class 5  :wub:

andy_e

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#6 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:15:37 am
Maybe these need to be hosted on the new bouldering website at some point?


 :whistle:

scragrock

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#7 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:31:57 am
Ha excellent.....
This is going to be a Looooooong list :great:

scragrock

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#8 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:36:12 am
Absolutely NO WAY for Masonic, its the Marzipan/Liquorice/Marmite of that coast i despise that horror show single move shithoose of a problem.

{Sorry for the rant}

andy_e

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#9 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:36:58 am
It's a good move, when you do it, but a shit problem until then  :lol:

SA Chris

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#10 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:39:48 am

Peel's Wall @ Clova


Peel Session Sit? Would have suggested it, but the (my?) original seems to have been bastardised by people wanting to claim too many variants.

Bad Buoys Sitter at Yellow Wall

Would have suggested Through it All at Katie Finnie, but the sea has removed the great landing we had last year and it's all jaggy blocks again.

Thomnomnom

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#11 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:42:09 am
Haha, here we go.

Personally think 2HB should be in there for Dumby. Supinator is a contender too.

Fatal Poison Whisper (6A) on Rum is amazing. My own Good Baccy at 6C. Highball Paul (6C+) also a contender.

The Secret (6A) at Mini Magic Wood.

Neanderfall (6A+) at Drumore

Celtic Knot in Torridon (agree just about anything in Torridon though. Muir's Masterpiece?)

Mr Ben (6B) in Carn Liath perhaps

Wow Jen (6B+) at Lennoxtown

Keystone Prow (6C) at Eriboll

Watercolour Challenge or Jawa at the Trossachs boulder? Frost Moon at Succoth or Crucifix at the Narnain boulders?

Stewart

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#12 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:47:52 am
5s and 6s in one thread? Madness!  ;D

OK SW Scotland
Garheugh
Mike's Traverse F6B+
Suck my Woolie F6C
Fiend suggest Afterlife F6C+, if you're a 7th grade climber then maybe, but anyone that is not climbing at this grade doesn't want to jump on this! Some of the other slab climbs like Dumby Boys F5 are more amenable. Same goes for Apprentice Wall at Craigdews.

The above are all great.
I'm trying to think of some standouts from the rest of the region. These are all very good if you want a sample from the area but i'm not sure any should make the top 100 on merit alone. Seems like D&G is a hardcore venue only   :-\
Thirlstane
Bad Seed F6C cool moves bit lowball though
Sandyhills
Mary's Massive Mango's F6C - this is good but a bit sharp and doesn't top out
G F6A - varies with level of the beach
Wee Gairy Boulders
The Secret of the Unicorn F6C - really good but the trek to get to it is not
Auchengray
50 Shades of Gray F6C - again very good but a bit lowball


andy_e

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#13 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:53:07 am
Thanks Thom and Stew!

Nothing wrong with a lowball...

Fiend

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#14 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 10:58:37 am
Jawa yes, Muir's Masterpiece yes.


Pimp With A Limp - Crianlarich

Rake Humour, Snapster, The Nose - Glen Croe

V3 right of Black Orc, Finch Attack, Squirrel Groove - Glen Nevis

Helipad, Diesel Canary - Glen Coe

Donkey Kong, Good Ass - Kishorn

The Nose Low, Loch Katrine

The groove thing in the middle of the Rankine boulder, Dumfries.



Edit: I suggested Afterlife / Half Life - the former is 6B+ and fine and the original classic of the slab, so that should go in.

SA Chris

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#15 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 11:01:45 am
Slippery Slope - Ruthven ;)

Stewart

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#16 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 11:16:32 am
2HB and Gorilla for Dumby for sure. Blue meanie is also a class problem but perhaps not an obvious line.

Everything at Katrine blocs is awesome in the 6th grade, i was just sad there was no outstanding 7 to go on my list. Jawa and Watercolour Challenge get my vote too if i had to pick two.
Agree on Peel Sessions ss at Glen Clova as well

Some other randoms that should be on the list

Craigmaddie
The mantle F6B

Craigmore
Wizard F6B+
Terror Arete F6A

At Dubh-Lic Boulders in Arrochar
The Milkman F6C

Dunure
Cave x arch F6C

Rhue Blocs
The Forge F6B+

Achmelvich Beach
Like a Glove F6B

Coire Lagan Boulder
The Groper F6B

Loch Buie
Danny's Wall F5

Aird Mighe
I think my own Dysleksyx Direct F6C+ is better than Crystal Voyage but both worthy of inclusion.

scragrock

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#17 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 11:23:35 am
Ok here we go- just a taste

Rooftown

Heaven's Gate - (6:40}

War Hammer -

Donnie Murdo -

Barry Valley

Vader - (1:00}

Dirty Rainbow -

Sheigra/Droman/Far north

Pads wet arete - {1:30}

och there is way too many its just ALL good up there ;D

andy moles

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#18 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 11:27:03 am
Creamy Caramel Crunch, Skinidin?
Right Lip, Link Boulder?

Second Right Arete at Farr, Mr Ben at Carn Liath, Brin Done Before, The Forge.

And double down on Masonic Fingershake, it's just such a good move  :lol:

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#19 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 12:53:25 pm
Haha another one

For Inverness area-

Ruthven
The Dude
Cheeky Girls
Austin Powers?

Barry
Crack n Scrape

Dunlichty
Grave of the Fifty

Farr
Right Arete SS

Ben Rinnes
Beehive

Primrose
Bucket Dyno
Black Beards Ghost

Sorry to say but think People thats why, slippery slope (grovel), palmist, masonic (eliminate) and cullen (landing dependent) could all come off.

Torridon- Vapour trail!

Trossachs- Hydroponicum - best 5+ in scotland for me

edit- also agree with peel sessions

Alex-the-Alex

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#20 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 01:08:43 pm
To add a few from out west:
- Danger Zone at Sanna (perfect highball!)
- Dan V's arete in Ardgour/Glen Tarbet?
- More from Mull - the classic arete at Gribun - Keal Over (sit) https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gribun_boulders-21967#photos&gid=1&pid=1
- Also from the Gribun (and blowing my own horn...) but the Keal boulder wall is amazing and the central line (Fladda) is pretty special for the grade  https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/49395139983/

Further away - One of the Ruthven easier ones should be in. Outstanding is pretty outstanding. Or the Dude? Agree about Haven. Its great. As was the Flood.  Also, not done it, but that 6C thats above Ullapool looks class (Boiler Suit - https://ullapooloutdoors.co.uk/northwestoutdoorsullapool/2015/10/16/obscure-gems-no-3-boiler-suit ). And GazM's nice looking wave problem at Tarvie? And tooting my own trumpet again - but this one has some of the best slopey wrestling action around at 6B- https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/coire_nan_arr_boulders-21391/lugless_willie-445684

SA Chris

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#21 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 01:33:09 pm
Everything at Katrine blocs is awesome in the 6th grade, i was just sad there was no outstanding 7 to go on my list.

I quite liked moves on Tourist Trap, although the top stayed damp and I never actually completed it.

scragrock

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#22 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 01:48:52 pm
Haha another one

For Inverness area-

Ruthven
The Dude
Cheeky Girls
Austin Powers?

Barry
Crack n Scrape

Dunlichty
Grave of the Fifty

Farr
Right Arete SS

Ben Rinnes
Beehive

Primrose
Bucket Dyno
Black Beards Ghost

Sorry to say but think People thats why, slippery slope (grovel), palmist, masonic (eliminate) and cullen (landing dependent) could all come off.

Torridon- Vapour trail!

Trossachs- Hydroponicum - best 5+ in scotland for me

edit- also agree with peel sessions


Ruthven
The Dude - Agree
Cheeky Girls - Agree
Austin Powers - its a No for me

Barry
Crack n Scrape - forgot about this, Great shout

Dunlichty
Grave of the Fifty - Yup absolutely

Farr
Right Arete SS, Not sold on this
Forever Unfulfilled?

Primrose
Bucket Dyno - Maybe...
Black Beards Ghost - Another good shout

Sorry to say but think People thats why, slippery slope (grovel), palmist, masonic (eliminate) and cullen (landing dependent) could all come off. - I agree also, a highly over rated problem, Sloping off is way better.








SA Chris

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#23 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 02:03:31 pm
I really like slippery slope (it plays to my strength an felt fairly easy) but can see why others don't. I only mentioned it because Fiend scorned it on here recently hence the ;)

andy_e

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#24 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 03:51:31 pm
Right, I think I've incorporated everything so far, apologies if I've missed anything. Up to 95 problems. I might let it run on to 150...

 

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