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Best 5+6s in Scotland (Read 5359 times)

Fultonius

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#25 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 04:04:31 pm
Blue meanie is also a class problem but perhaps not an obvious line.

For me, that's one of the best problems at dumby. So improbable for the grade, and just needs subtlety and balance.

Torino Sun is also class.

TCE

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#26 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 04:52:43 pm
Morning Light, 6C-ish, Ben Narnain. It's the arete on the back of the block high up on the right when you come out of the top of the trees on the way up to The Cobbler. Sit start on the right-hand side of the arete, move round to the left-hand side where the big flakes are, then move back to the right-hand side (crux) by matching the -- err, don't know how to describe it... vertical bar of soap? -- then straight up the right-hand side to finish. Did it in 2010. Landing's a bit rocky, as I recall, but not death-defying (unlike the extremely cool-looking line just left of it...) -- worth lugging a mat up there. It's extremely photogenic. Never gave John a photo, so it's not in the guide.

SA Chris

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#27 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 04:59:46 pm
If it's not in UKC it ain't getting on the list.

Fiend

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#28 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 08, 2021, 07:38:00 pm
Seems there's some bloody great 5+6s all over Scotland, which is nice  :2thumbsup:

Thomnomnom

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#29 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 11:55:07 am
Hey Tom, DM'd you but not sure you'll see.

Any chance of a (rough?) grid ref for Morning Light? Keen to head up that way to check out the Narnain stuff soon. Cheers!

andy moles

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#30 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 01:44:45 pm
The Flood at Reiff in the Woods might deserve one of the remaining spots.

TCE

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#31 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 02:08:33 pm
@Thomnomnom: it's probably this --

56.215624, -4.779841

I have a hard time working out what I'm looking at on Google Maps sometimes, but that's in roughly the right place and it's the right shape. The distinctive feature from below (on the path to The Cobbler) is the steep east face of the boulder hanging over a gully, sometimes clearly visible and sometimes less so, depending on the light. There's a vertical wall on the north side, and the top of the boulder slopes down to the west and south. Hillside is steep below the boulder, but makes terraces sloping away to the west, so I approached from that direction, i.e. bottom-left to top-right up the south-facing slope of Cruach nam Miseag.

GazM

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#32 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 02:13:47 pm
Another interesting list. Here are a few unsolicited thoughts from the areas I know fairly well.

A Long Winning Streak at Inchbae would never make the list for me. It's fine and all, but among the best in the country? Hmm. If an Inchbae problem were to be on the list I'd put Into the West on the Outback Boulder there.
https://flic.kr/p/26Hmgew

On the NW sandstone I'd include Central Roof on the Dam Boulder in Coire nan Arr, Applecross. Beautiful holds on beautiful rock in a beautiful place. Terrible name.
In Torridon I'd remove Careful Talk (good line but an awkward udge to start then all over) and add Twiglets or perhaps Indian Winter.
The Forge at Rhue is a brilliant call from Mr Moles. At Reiff in the Woods Haven is of course the obligatory choice but QC is also a favourite of mine. Last time I was there The Flood needed a serious clean but agree its a brilliant problem. I think if we're looking at the best of the best in the country then I'm not sure I'd include anything on Ardmair Beach, as much as I love the place.

If I was to wave my own flag for the Easter Ross choss that I've been developing in recent years I'd say that The Bends on Tarvie Wall is one of the best 6A+s I know of, but could be a bit biased. https://flic.kr/p/28dKjoa

Finally, I'm torn about Masonic Finger Shake. It's a bit of a travesty if eliminate 1 move problems that jump off at arbitrary jugs are considered among the best of the best, but then can just about see the argument that that one move encapsulates the essence of bouldering.

sherlock

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#33 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 05:16:01 pm
I took a ladder out to the Woods a couple of months back and gave The Flood, Highland Spring and other bits a good scrub.
Agree with either Twiglets or Indian Winter over Careful Torque.

Teddyc

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#34 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 05:40:42 pm
Right, I think I've incorporated everything so far, apologies if I've missed anything. Up to 95 problems. I might let it run on to 150...

To get you past 100

Cummingston
-The Nest
-The Crucifix

Brin Rock
-Spank the Ramp
-White Wall

Craigmaddie
-Undercutter

Wolfcrag
-Hard dyno

andy_e

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#35 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 06:13:19 pm
Don't get me wrong, I love Wolfcrag, and Hard Dyno is ace, but if someone turned up there expecting to see one of the best problems in Scotland, I think they'd be, at best, underwhelmed...

Point taken re. Careful Torque! Very good line, perhaps not so good a problem. Not done either Twiglets or Indian Winter, but I'll add them on! To be honest, most of Torridon could go in. Dandy Dons for example...

How could I forget the Forge? Long been one of my favourite ever problems!

I think I've added everything I can... Let me know if I've missed owt!

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#36 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 06:25:18 pm
ALWS is one of the best very problems of it's grade range around. Great rock, perfect height, good landing, cool and really techy climbing. I think I used 3 consecutive thumb sprags on it. Just as good climbing as Haven and a more elegant situation.

The existence of Wolfcrag shouldn't even be acknowledged anywhere near a thread like this.

andy_e

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#37 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 06:27:59 pm
And still nothing at Porty... Although I do think Slap and Tickle, the Prow and the Peedie Prow are all worthy! Any objections to me adding them?!

Fiend

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#38 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 06:29:56 pm
I seem to recall that The Prow (is that the 6C thing down near the water) was quite acceptable as it had an actual like and all. Slap And Tickle was a bit grim but maybe okay.

GazM

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#39 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 07:09:50 pm
I took a ladder out to the Woods a couple of months back and gave The Flood, Highland Spring and other bits a good scrub.
Agree with either Twiglets or Indian Winter over Careful Torque.
Nice work Nige!

Alex-the-Alex

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#40 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 09:25:20 pm
All this reiff talk has reminded how good Sparrow Legs to the right of Haven was! Equally classy.

And I thought hosting them on the new website would free them of needing to be on UKC. Keep some mystique in Scottish bouldering with having to chase down TCEs problems to complete the list.

If you need other suggestions to keep Wolf Crag problems at bay, this fridge hug on Kerrera is brilliant: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/catnip_crag-26536/parsley-550884

and the Brandy Stone arete never gets old https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/45934946564/

andy_e

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#41 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 10:30:11 pm
And I thought hosting them on the new website would free them of needing to be on UKC. Keep some mystique in Scottish bouldering with having to chase down TCEs problems to complete the list.
This is a good point! I'll have a think how to transfer it...

Ross Barker

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#42 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 10:31:28 pm
and the Brandy Stone arete never gets old https://www.flickr.com/photos/140396518@N05/45934946564/
That's a good looking boulder. Couldn't find anything from a quick Google, have you got any more details?

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#43 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 10:33:35 pm
I think it's Oban, on the OS maps as Brandy Rock. But maybe it's not, and we all need to go on a quest...

Alex-the-Alex

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#44 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 09, 2021, 10:59:53 pm
I think it's Oban, on the OS maps as Brandy Rock. But maybe it's not, and we all need to go on a quest...

Thats the spirit  :clap2:

Its down by the sailing club Ross. Cant miss it.  :thumbsup:

GazM

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#45 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 10, 2021, 09:21:28 am
ALWS is one of the best very problems of it's grade range around.
Fair dos, I love that you love ALWS. I guess this just illustrates the brilliant and very subjective way we all enjoy this ludicrous activity!


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#46 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 10, 2021, 10:01:33 am
I don't love that I can barely type a single post without getting typos in there. "...best vert problems around". My thoughts in 2012, after doing it on the same day as Haven, were "another brilliant technical wall...a must visit for any Scottish boulderer" .

Code: [Select]
  https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=HUJdUlrMtsc&list=PLL95UmL3lB8k-_K8YywgAJKawfxZtiKzJ&index=20
P.S. And the Portlethen Prow is a line not a like  ::)

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#47 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 10, 2021, 12:29:55 pm
ALWS is one of the best very problems of it's grade range around.
Fair dos, I love that you love ALWS. I guess this just illustrates the brilliant and very subjective way we all enjoy this ludicrous activity!

 :agree: Well said Gaz

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#48 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 10, 2021, 01:12:07 pm
Pad's Wet Arete is quite high and has a terrible landing. I'm not afraid of a highball, but I've never tried that one. Don't think people will appreciate being pointed at it. Something at Land of Giants instead? Doppelganger is good. And Jamie's Wall is really class.

scragrock

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#49 Re: Best 5+6s in Scotland
October 10, 2021, 01:37:35 pm
Pad's Wet Arete is quite high and has a terrible landing. I'm not afraid of a highball, but I've never tried that one. Don't think people will appreciate being pointed at it. Something at Land of Giants instead? Doppelganger is good. And Jamie's Wall is really class.

 :lol: Fair enough Robbie, maybe its best just to Point At It rather than actually climbing It.


 

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