Simon Lee
insect overlord #1
11.4-6 average 159.2lbs down 0.8lbs
M. Tor for 7am with Ben Steel. 15 degrees but mainly still and sweaty. Abbed into the airy Crucifixion headwall and worked out a couple more tweaks on the crux. Linked from shake at bottom of pillar to top fairly comfortably which was the link I was after then came down. Next go jumared to Prow hole then managed to climb to unclipping bolt on middle of the Anger Management headwall. Struggled on the moves past it in the conditions then up to the belay in sections and stripped it. Finished by 10am.
T.
W. PM LLandudno. Hot but low humidity. Fairly still. Fell over walking down to Parisellas and turned my ankle. Karl had forgotten his harness. Fortunately I had a spare. Hobbled into LPT. First go up ankle not too bad wearing Katakis as an experiment. The method I discovered at the end of the last session for the move up at the end of the first traverse worked well and seems reliable. On top traverse and redpoint crux couldn’t seem to get as much out of my feet as usual but hard to tell if it was the heat, the Katakis or my ankle. Joined on it by Zoe Wood and Flo Tillley. Second go up it was painful putting my Whites on and the ankle didn’t like high heel hooking on the first traverse and was visibly swelling. Decided to be sensible. Did the move at the end of the traverse a couple of times and called it a day. Belayed Karl till he was done then we had a drink at the Kings Head
T. Rest day. Ambled into the Diamond. Not been before. Only saw one Kittiwake so reckon there would have been grounds for an early opening. Felt like it was good conditions despite heat.
F. PM Met Ted. Breezy up top but fairly still at LPT. First warm up go on Statement did the move at the end of the traverse straight off despite conditions. Several tie ins from the ground unsuccessfully trying to do first traverse. As it got less greasy I got more tired but at least I got properly stuck into it. Although ankle was still swollen it didn’t hurt which was a relief. At the end I needed to get to the top to strip the route and despite temperature and being knackered was pleased to link the middle of the top traverse to the top skipping the last bolt and placing a rock 3! Ted redpointed Paratrooper last go which apparently all came down to how he seated his pinky in a crimp.
S.
S. Tor at 8am with Ewa. Cloudy and warmer and sweatier than expected. Ankle still a bit swollen. Approached from top again. Took a kneepad this time and found it useful in a couple of places. Went down to the lip of the pillar and would have top roped to the belay if hadn’t had to unclip the dogging bolt on the crux. Also had a brief go on the middle of the AM headwall then came down. STP and Greg C rocked up. Second tie much hotter. Bit the bullet and went from ground almost getting through the Push Up start (7a+ according to STP :) then dogged my way up to the top of the route and stripped it. Coaxed Ewa onto Indecent and she redpointed it heroically.
Obviously conditions at LPT were poor but I got some value out of the sessions and feel ready at last to seriously attempt redpointing when I next go in a couple of weeks. Cross N’Angry coming together nicely too.
Second tie on Cross’n Angry on monday compressed into 22 secs courtesy of Ben Steel
https://youtu.be/--WYfHu1Lhg
M. Tor for 7am with Ben Steel. 15 degrees but mainly still and sweaty. Abbed into the airy Crucifixion headwall and worked out a couple more tweaks on the crux. Linked from shake at bottom of pillar to top fairly comfortably which was the link I was after then came down. Next go jumared to Prow hole then managed to climb to unclipping bolt on middle of the Anger Management headwall. Struggled on the moves past it in the conditions then up to the belay in sections and stripped it. Finished by 10am.
T.
W. PM LLandudno. Hot but low humidity. Fairly still. Fell over walking down to Parisellas and turned my ankle. Karl had forgotten his harness. Fortunately I had a spare. Hobbled into LPT. First go up ankle not too bad wearing Katakis as an experiment. The method I discovered at the end of the last session for the move up at the end of the first traverse worked well and seems reliable. On top traverse and redpoint crux couldn’t seem to get as much out of my feet as usual but hard to tell if it was the heat, the Katakis or my ankle. Joined on it by Zoe Wood and Flo Tillley. Second go up it was painful putting my Whites on and the ankle didn’t like high heel hooking on the first traverse and was visibly swelling. Decided to be sensible. Did the move at the end of the traverse a couple of times and called it a day. Belayed Karl till he was done then we had a drink at the Kings Head
T. Rest day. Ambled into the Diamond. Not been before. Only saw one Kittiwake so reckon there would have been grounds for an early opening. Felt like it was good conditions despite heat.
F. PM Met Ted. Breezy up top but fairly still at LPT. First warm up go on Statement did the move at the end of the traverse straight off despite conditions. Several tie ins from the ground unsuccessfully trying to do first traverse. As it got less greasy I got more tired but at least I got properly stuck into it. Although ankle was still swollen it didn’t hurt which was a relief. At the end I needed to get to the top to strip the route and despite temperature and being knackered was pleased to link the middle of the top traverse to the top skipping the last bolt and placing a rock 3! Ted redpointed Paratrooper last go which apparently all came down to how he seated his pinky in a crimp.
S.
S. Tor at 8am with Ewa. Cloudy and warmer and sweatier than expected. Ankle still a bit swollen. Approached from top again. Took a kneepad this time and found it useful in a couple of places. Went down to the lip of the pillar and would have top roped to the belay if hadn’t had to unclip the dogging bolt on the crux. Also had a brief go on the middle of the AM headwall then came down. STP and Greg C rocked up. Second tie much hotter. Bit the bullet and went from ground almost getting through the Push Up start (7a+ according to STP :) then dogged my way up to the top of the route and stripped it. Coaxed Ewa onto Indecent and she redpointed it heroically.
Obviously conditions at LPT were poor but I got some value out of the sessions and feel ready at last to seriously attempt redpointing when I next go in a couple of weeks. Cross N’Angry coming together nicely too.
Second tie on Cross’n Angry on monday compressed into 22 secs courtesy of Ben Steel
https://youtu.be/--WYfHu1Lhg