Power Club 763 22 - 28 July 2024

[duncan]

Keeping the PC warm for shark’s Welsh trip report :jab:

M - Shoulder/elbow/wrist conditioning (side planks, handstands, reverse curls). Hip flexibility: prone frog stretches, sumo squats, standing pancake stretches.

T - Fingerboard pickups to 39kg both hands. Drove down to Weston. Swam 1km in the Marine Lake to get the motorway out of my bones.

W - Uphill Quarry with Purple Sue. Warmed up repeating Judgement day (6a) and The Gallic Shrug (6c). Swapped leads on Taking a line for a Walk (E2), the girdle traverse. Not amazing climbing but a fun few pitches and the best only line of the crag. Should have tried something harder but mum had a hospital appointment and we were limited for time.

T - Swam in the Marine Lake. Only 0.5km but a brisk wind and choppy sea makes it feel longer. Hip flexibility. Shoulder conditioning.

F - Early start to catch the Knightstone Bouldering Wall before the high tide. ~20 or so problems, repeating some, a good gentle session. Met up with the lad who had taken the train down to Weston. I was going down with a bug of some kind so we all took it easy.

S - Feeling bleurgh. Walked to the seaside and ate ice cream. Bonding with the lad.

S - Drove to Valley of Rocks with the lad, he followed a couple of severes and we both enjoyed ourselves. Knackered with the lurgy.

Mostly a family week but managed to sneak in some time on rock. Finger is fine, shoulder is 85% better, feel like I’m moving well. Really should get on something harder than E2 once the cold/C19/whatever goes away.

 

[Fiend]

Next week STG: None - did slightly better than none.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes - n/a. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad) - nothing at all challenging but a bit of inspiration on Sat. Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners - really struggling but some people came out of the ether. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out - despite one actual fall, a very definite no given the shambles on Wed. Look after injuries - ultra-punting so no worse, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2 - yes, shoulder rehab x 2 - yes, stretching x 3 - no and can feel creakier.


M - Active rest. 3.5 miles decent walk. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab. Meh.

T - Active rest. Photoshoot @ Round Barn Quarry. Various mild bits of scrambling / heather tugging.

W - Decline furthering. F6b+, failed on F6c+, worked moves on F7b (one tie in), failed to work moves on F7a+ (one tie in). Exeptionally weak and heavy. No practise falls. Demoralised

T - Rest / depression. Extremely low mood. Elbow rehab. Shoulder rehab.

F - 2 x E1, 1 x E2. One small practise fall snapping a hold. Easing into things. Decent walking.

S - 3 x E2. Good easy mileage - a tonic. Decent walking. Good chat about spad, trort, pegbolts, pegs, everything (Edit: actually didn't cover people using sodding French grades for Great Brexitish Trad Routes so missed ranting about that, will save it for next time).

S - Active rest. Photoshoot @ Egerton. Very productive and a good varied team.


Very down and up week with a big mental health dip in the middle. Felt as bad as I have this year, generally depressed and very bleak. Somehow dragged myself out Fri/Sat and thankfully things worked well for gently easing back into things. It feels like I've also had a massive strength loss (i.e. bigger than the usual constant steady decline), but I am assuming that the depression is inhibiting my body from pulling remotely hard, so it's probably more de-conditioning / de-recruiting (but who knows eh!).


Next week STG: Avoid the stupid fucking heat.
The usual STG: Stay focused and don't make silly mistakes. Do something challenging and inspiring on a rope (fuck above a pad). Keep in regular contact with suitable friends and partners. Falling practise if I do routes indoors or out. Look after injuries, (gym x 1), elbow rehab x 2, shoulder rehab x 2, stretching x 3.

 

[monkoffunk]

M - Picked up cold from children. Unpleasant. Nothing.
T - Nothing again.
W - Getting better. 5k slow run in high humidity. Bit rusty. After a push at the end of June to get to 20 runs, this is first run of July. Most noticeable was the mood boost after, hadn’t realised how much I’ve been using running to maintain a decent mental state. Small about of elbow physio.
T - More unwell again. Nothing.
F - Splitting headache in the morning, but recovered enough to work night shift. Very minimal finger stuff in evening, body weight hangs, campus moves on edges. Good elbow physio session.
S - nothing
S - Elbow physio. Campus moves on edges. Repeaters 7,3 3 full sets. Finally starting to feel a bit more myself.


A little this week despite illness and nights. Quite a lot of sickness around here so mostly rest probably the right thing.

 

[Duma]

Thanks Duncan. I would contend that Seven Eighths and Tombstone are definitely lines at uphill?
Sounds like a good weekend Fiend, well done for getting out after your midweek dip.

M - 12 hr shift. Feeling almost recovered from last weekends cold.
T - 12 hr shift. Cold returned. Ugh. Bunged up and knackered all day.
W - long lie in, feeling much better. Eve, TCA, 120 min. Whites, Blacks, and Blues. 8 problems, flashed 2, 1 second go. 2 more with a little work. Few tries on the other 3, at least 1 of which should go. Hot and still feeling some effect of illness, but ok session.
T - knackered, think still slightly ill. Sacked off planned climbing.
F - 12 hr shift.
S - 12 hr shift.
S - Aft, Portland, cuttings. Bit of a drive for a session but the psyche was high. Done a lot of stuff here but mate was keen for Fighting Torque and I've got a few bits to tidy up still. Fell off right at the top of the warm up Modern Nightmare 7a, being overly casual, serves me right! Then Nightmare Scenario 7c, 3 tie ins, first couldn't work out crux but got the rest fine, second finally unlocked it after fair bit more effort, third did it. Fun little session and route. Nice to be by the seaside and catch up with Roz. Still not quite 100% recovered though which is annoying.

72 kg.

 

[oldfella]

Nice read Duncan

Monday -
Fingerboard at home
18mm edges
Six 10s hangs @ total weight 89kg
Six 7s hangs on 12mm edges @ total weight 81.6kg.

Tuesday
Colehill Quarry with Roger & Jack after work
Luckily these guys answered the call for someone to join me at Colehill. Managed to achieve my goal. 7a in 4 tie ins over two sessions. Would like to get these done in 1 session.

Wednesday
Rest day

Thursday
Fingerboard session at home
Six 10s hangs @ 91.7kg
Five 7s hangs on 12mm edges at 81.6kg

Friday
Rest

Saturday

Travelled to St Malo in France.

Sunday
Beach vibes & body surfing

 

[duncan]

Thanks Duncan. I would contend that Seven Eighths and Tombstone are definitely lines at uphill?

;D

But their lines don't go all the way to the top of the crag! (It has only taken me 46 years to work out why it's called Seven Eights)

 

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - boxing bag.
Tue - 531 week 16. It's very very unpleasantly hot. GM volume. Bentover rows.
Wed - farmer's. Nothing beats the feeling of a session like this in this climate. Nothing.
Thu - 4x AM session, back work.
Fri - regular weights.
Sat - boxing bag.
Sun - feeling meh. Hit a 5kg TBDL PB.

 

[Duncan Disorderly]

Resting up... Club

M: 1.5 miles over Stanage - Active rest
T: Routes @ AW - 2 x F6a+, 2 x F6b, F6c, F7a+ - lobbed off last hard move, Arse!
W: 5K fell run - Hard!
T: Vasectomy Day! - Been putting this off as long as I could without having to redo my pre-op... Never a good time but... There could be better times!
F,S,S: Absolutely nuttin... :-[

Pretty much out of action now for a couple of weeks then off to Font for hols with kids.... Fingers crossed for no complications so I can climb sweaty boluders in The Forest....

 

[SA Chris]

prev week, in the lakes, One session at king king on the sunday before, lots of walking, a wee bit of climbing, blah blah.
S - some pickups to get back into it
M - lunchtime garage wall. Liam / Cove Climbing came over for a lunchtime session, and proceeded to flash everything on my board. Shows what youth / talent / power can do. At least he struggled hanging my big wooden home made slopers with his little hands. 12km run in the evening. Warm
T - Evening session at Johnsheugh. Intent was getting the 7A+ at the right side done, or at least get the start solid. Warmed up on the 5+ and 6A and got stuck in. Soon became obvious i am way to weak to do Tim's original method, but with a bit of reach I could pinch crimp / lip and pull through to hold at back that sets you up for heelhook. Richard did it too using full crimp, strong fool. Couldn't pull through off heelhook and do the rest of the moved over the roof i did last time, a touch greasy, and feeling weak from a week of limited activity. It will go though...
W - rest - shoulders thrashed.
T - rest - feeling lazy - fingers sore. Attacked weeds in baclk garden
F - got house tidied for wife coming back from week away. Knackering.
S - afternoon session at TE. Just mileage to get back into it.
S - family hill walk. Local low hanging fruit ticked, so drove to Drumtochter to get Sgairneach Mhor and Beinn Udlamain done for kids 23rd and 24th Munros. Amazing weather, good spirts all round. 18km. And route I had worked out for avoiding Dunkeld junction getting onto northbound A9 worked. Win.

 

[slab_happy]

It feels like I've also had a massive strength loss (i.e. bigger than the usual constant steady decline), but I am assuming that the depression is inhibiting my body from pulling remotely hard

Yeah, this definitely happens to me. It's weird and incredibly frustrating, but it's a thing.

Next week STG: Avoid the stupid fucking heat.

Millpond, millpond! :bounce: