Hello power clubbers.
M - Siurana Herbolari with Emmi. Three lowly graded routes that didn't feel easy.
T - Siurana Primavera with Emmi. Two 6bs and two 6b+s. Shoulder conditioning: handstands and so on.
W - Siurana Grau dels Masets on my own. Abseiled La Muerte del Sponsor to check if it was a realistic prospect this trip. Slightly better hip flexibility compared with December meant I was able to go back to my original beta on a couple of key moves so this could be on as a project. Leg conditioning and flexibility.
T - Siurana Siurunella Est with Emmi. Repeated Mucho Papito, onsighted Border Line (excellent, a bolted E3!) and failed to onsight Pocapena (ditto). Feeling a bit tired.
F - Rest day. Walked up to Montsant ~9km.
S - Siurana Grau dels Masets. Worked La Muerte del Sponsor using a Taz Lov. First time I’ve tried one and it seems very good for this purpose. It slides up the rope as smoothly as a shunt but catches and lowers like a grigri so there is no need to remove or change the device if you want to try the same section repeatedly. It was still a scary process but I’m hoping it will become a bit less so as I get more accustomed to it. I’m very inefficient at working routes but did all the climbing between the boulder problems at the start and finish in two parts. The next goal is to do this section in one which will be about 7a/+. Rain was forecast the following morning so had three separate working sessions and was pretty tired by the end. A local lad onsighted it between my tries as his warm-up (I felt less inept after discovering he was projecting an 8c nearby).
S - Battered. Rain as forecast so taking a rest day. A little shoulder and hip conditioning.
A pretty good week, getting back into the swing of climbing on rock. No recurrence of the health issue that nearly scuppered the trip and not feeling any tweaks. La Muerte is on. Would also like to onsight a 7a but it might be a stretch to do both so I’m going to focus on projecting for now.
I have had toothache (or a gum infection?) in one of my molars the whole week. This is a known issue and it may need to be extracted. Any pointers on how to find a dentist in the area? I wouldn't know where to start.
Also, the rental car had a front door lock smashed whilst parked overnight in the main car park in Cornudella. I presume an attempted break-in though there was nothing in the car of course. I’ve been renting cars in Spain for 30 years and this is the first episode of this kind so I suppose I’ve been lucky. Still a bit depressing that it should happen here, which has felt like a home-from-home, and not a bigger city. Should be covered by the excess insurance but will no doubt take time and a pain to get my money back. Doors all still function with the electronic lock, is there any need to report anything before dropping the car off?
M - Siurana Herbolari with Emmi. Three lowly graded routes that didn't feel easy.
T - Siurana Primavera with Emmi. Two 6bs and two 6b+s. Shoulder conditioning: handstands and so on.
W - Siurana Grau dels Masets on my own. Abseiled La Muerte del Sponsor to check if it was a realistic prospect this trip. Slightly better hip flexibility compared with December meant I was able to go back to my original beta on a couple of key moves so this could be on as a project. Leg conditioning and flexibility.
T - Siurana Siurunella Est with Emmi. Repeated Mucho Papito, onsighted Border Line (excellent, a bolted E3!) and failed to onsight Pocapena (ditto). Feeling a bit tired.
F - Rest day. Walked up to Montsant ~9km.
S - Siurana Grau dels Masets. Worked La Muerte del Sponsor using a Taz Lov. First time I’ve tried one and it seems very good for this purpose. It slides up the rope as smoothly as a shunt but catches and lowers like a grigri so there is no need to remove or change the device if you want to try the same section repeatedly. It was still a scary process but I’m hoping it will become a bit less so as I get more accustomed to it. I’m very inefficient at working routes but did all the climbing between the boulder problems at the start and finish in two parts. The next goal is to do this section in one which will be about 7a/+. Rain was forecast the following morning so had three separate working sessions and was pretty tired by the end. A local lad onsighted it between my tries as his warm-up (I felt less inept after discovering he was projecting an 8c nearby).
S - Battered. Rain as forecast so taking a rest day. A little shoulder and hip conditioning.
A pretty good week, getting back into the swing of climbing on rock. No recurrence of the health issue that nearly scuppered the trip and not feeling any tweaks. La Muerte is on. Would also like to onsight a 7a but it might be a stretch to do both so I’m going to focus on projecting for now.
I have had toothache (or a gum infection?) in one of my molars the whole week. This is a known issue and it may need to be extracted. Any pointers on how to find a dentist in the area? I wouldn't know where to start.
Also, the rental car had a front door lock smashed whilst parked overnight in the main car park in Cornudella. I presume an attempted break-in though there was nothing in the car of course. I’ve been renting cars in Spain for 30 years and this is the first episode of this kind so I suppose I’ve been lucky. Still a bit depressing that it should happen here, which has felt like a home-from-home, and not a bigger city. Should be covered by the excess insurance but will no doubt take time and a pain to get my money back. Doors all still function with the electronic lock, is there any need to report anything before dropping the car off?