People have been locked down, training hard and once the lockdown has eased it coincided with loads of strong, psyched people trying to keep away from the crowds at larger and more popular venues.
I've nothing to say about the grades at Lees Bottom, but on the issue of votes in online databases - things are confused massively by the frailty of the human ego.If something is clearly overgraded at "Grade X" you'll get a lot of votes confirming it as benchmark or (at best) "low in the grade". Observe: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/crookrise-541/karjala-187032For stuff that's clearly undergraded, the message comes through loud and clear: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/earl_crag-542/hanging_groove-84962Then there's problems of votes sticking around from before hold breakages/new sequences etc and being bundled in with votes from after the changes. There's all sorts of biases going on.
Then, like Jon says, you have height and conditions to factor in. Is a problem graded for conditions on the day, average conditions or minty conditions ?
If it's piss then 6b+, If you'd had to have a few goes then 7a/+, or if you can't do it it might even scrape 7b+.
Quote from: monkey boy on June 03, 2020, 04:18:10 pmThen, like Jon says, you have height and conditions to factor in. Is a problem graded for conditions on the day, average conditions or minty conditions ?I think a better way of thinking about it is to not ask the question "how hard did I find this?", but to try and think of what other climbs it is like and to wonder how it compares to them difficulty wise. So for instance, Rumble in the Jungle feels and climbs similarly to Suavito but has an easier crux and is less sustained - hence my view that it is 7A+ or 7A with the new beta.Quote from: jamesturnbull97 on June 03, 2020, 04:05:25 pmIf it's piss then 6b+, If you'd had to have a few goes then 7a/+, or if you can't do it it might even scrape 7b+.There are some really fucking hard (in my opinion) 7B+s out there. Like Crystal Method for instance. I just don't understand how people can say that Code Orange or Fallen Idol can be the same grade. Maybe Crystal Method should go up? Actually, Fallen Idol is a good example of the "low in the grade" phenomenon I mentioned before.https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/roche_abbey-1211/fallen_idol-176905Agree with Bonjoy as well that you won't be scooping in votes from people who get shut down.
I think a better way of thinking about it is to not ask the question "how hard did I find this?", but to try and think of what other climbs it is like and to wonder how it compares to them difficulty wise. So for instance, Rumble in the Jungle feels and climbs similarly to Suavito but has an easier crux and is less sustained - hence my view that it is 7A+ or 7A with the new beta.
.....a good example of the "low in the grade" phenomenon I mentioned before.....https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/roche_abbey-1211/fallen_idol-176905