[tomtom]

Tues: Board Day \o/ AM: 1 hour session. 1min on 3min off. Did some new problems!! PM: Tried to do a fingerboard session - gave up. Trashed!

Weds: 1 arm day. Half pull ups on smaller holds to warm up. Sets of 1 arm hangs with decreasing assistance from -15kg to -6kg (new record). Much more in control - making some stready gains here. Then moved back up adding weight assistance. Final set moving to 7 secs on 3 off instead of 5.

Friday: Board day. AM: 1 x 40 min board session. Again 1min on, 3 off. Did a cool new problem that felt nails earlier. Started to fade after 25/30 min. PM: Second 1 x 40 min board session. HARD - but spent time on large hold problems (jugs) and working keeping hips in.

Sat: 1 arm day. 3 x1arm -15kg (full assist) On the end set could slowly rotate whilst hanging - from under to open (whilst shoulder engaged and arm bent) - felt weird but cool!  1x 1arm pullup with -22kg assist. Felt a bit silly with that much assistance. didnt do any more. 3 x 1arm with -8kg assist (tired at end but felt fine). 2x 1arm -6kg. Managed 2 sets - faded rapidly on second. 2x 1 arm -15kg 7 secs holds - hard at end.

Sun: Early afternoon board session. NEW HOLDS! Some small wooden crimps from PeeWee.. incut but biggest was maybe 20mm? Hard session.. faded very fast core went for the last ten min. Had to adjust holds that were set as sidepulls.... Narrow board at 50+ degrees means I can't get my feet out wide enough to use them.. might have to set them as presses..

Good week. Board is hard - session fitness not great - but that was the case when I was on the 50's at the depot etc.. it got better. Hopefully getting some larger wooden holds this week so a bit more variety. Really pleased with steady one arm hang progress. Gone from tweaky feeling really hard - to feeling quite steady - and dropping the weight needed for the assist. Another 4 weeks and I might not need any assistance (for a couple of seconds!)...

I'm also doing some light shoulder weights and negative wrist curls every night. And the Joe Wicks thing every weekday morning... so actually doing quite alot of stuff at the moment!

[Wood FT]

Sets of 1 arm hangs with decreasing assistance from -15kg to -6kg (new record).

Good progress, Tom  . What size edge we talking?

[mr chaz]

Nice one TT.

Goals: Some form of exercise everyday, end lockdown fitter.

M. 2 arm hangs x 20s, emphasis on working front/back 3 half crimp.

T. 20 minute HIIT with some kettlebell moves thrown in.

W. Repeaters x 2 sets.

T. 20 minute HIIT

F. Not a lot of ‘exercise’ did squeeze in some hip mobility work though

S. 15 minute HIIT. Max one arm hangs. Felt well rested and strong. Still using 7kg on the pulley.

S. Made some new holds from the few offcuts I had lying around, went better than expected for a first try with minimal tools (drill, saw and sand paper) and ended up with 2 nice 20mm edges and a 30mm rounded edge. Followed by 20 minutes of HIIT.

[tomtom]

Sets of 1 arm hangs with decreasing assistance from -15kg to -6kg (new record).

Good progress, Tom  . What size edge we talking?

Deep slot... (30mm?) but not a jug. Not the benchmark lattice / BM edge etc.. Aim is to get the shoulder stable and arm bent on this - then move to a smaller hold.

[nai]

Deep slot on a BM is 50mm isn't it?

[tomtom]

Deep slot on a BM is 50mm isn't it?

Dunno. It’s a 1K. Quite possibly. Chose that instead of a jug - as you can’t pinch the hold or use your thumb to help stop twist. A starting point anyway.

[shark]

11.8-11 Average 163.7lbs (up 1.6lbs)

M. Noon. A few pulls on bachar ladder between digging in the garden. Managed to do doubles off the right. Quick go on rings doing Ys and Ts
Evening. Density hangs session back on the ergo edge. Nice cooler conditions. Just drags and half crimps as can’t full crimp yet. Marginal PB at heavier bodyweight. Happy with that.

T.

W. Morning. Front lever attempts and bachar ladder between gardening. Did doubles off both arms several times probably more down to remembering that a bigger body twist helps than strength gains. Still - happy to take the ticks.

Evening. Static OH press 42.5kg x3, 37.5kg x4,x4 Hip thrust 117.5kg x6, x6, x6 Straight leg deadlift 97.5kg x6, x6, x6 Front squat 52.5kg x6, x6, x6 10 pull-ups

T.Noon. Ergo edge / fingerboard Recruitment and speed pulls

F.

S. Noon Recruitment and speed pulls ergo edge and 20mm edge. Able to full crimp with care so reintroduced that. 25 hard pulls each hand.
Eve Few goes on bachar ladder but not recovered so canned it. Need to be fresh for this

S. Noon. Systems. Started warming but felt fucked so stopped. Few days off required. Standard as usually need an easy week after 3 hardish weeks

Finger recovery still going well. Should be able to climb on the board before too long.
Struggling with the prospect of another 3 weeks of this. Thought I was going to turn 55 tomorrow. Turns out it’s actually 56. Bah humbug

[Will Hunt]

dunny posted this a few weeks ago which is handy:
https://www.reddit.com/r/climbharder/comments/cek236/beastmaker_1000_and_2000_edgehold_sizes/

M - board. Warmed up and got the book out to delve into problems past. Repeated some if the early ones then started on The Lockdown. Got too sucked in. It's a big move off a small RH crimp. So my RH got worked disproportionately. But I got so close!
https://www.instagram.com/p/B-7U4majBCb/?igshid=qcmzscphk4zs

T - fingerboard - aim was to work out a repeaters session. Warmed up and had a play with a pulley system (put weights on a sling, clip it to rope, rope goes up to lower bar of powerbar then down to a bight (to use as a handle). Could hang on the right arm but not the left unless I had all the weight (12kg + plenty of friction between thick sport rope and bar) and was using the BM2k's biggest slot. Also, form was all over the place. Couldn't maintain a half crimp and it kept dropping into a drag. Scrapped the idea of one arm hangs and will try and work out a session on two arms with weight added if needed.
Core and stretching in evening. Ab ripper X. Couldn't finish all the reps in a number of the exercises. Hard work. But will be fun to see improvements if I try it some more.

W - Evening ride. 16.5km, 350m of up, about 45 mins. Pushed it quite hard on the first long climb and had very little left for the short steep climbs on the return.

T - Rest. Was going to do some pull ups but felt pretty wiped.

F - board. Good session. Finished off The Lockdown and did a couple of other things that were supposed to be hard but turned out to be steady.
https://www.instagram.com/p/B_GT7WijwCI/?igshid=1oybt1dw57bhp

S - core. Ab ripper X. Hard but fared better than Tuesday. Weirdly I don't seem to get any DOMS or next-day-knackeredness from this.

S - fingerboard. Based on Tuesday's session I just decided to start from the bottom and work up from there. Used the 33mm edge and did 6 sets of 6 hangs. Each hang on two arms, alternating between half crimp and drag between sets. Focused on trying to keep good form which I think I did ok on, but there's just something about hangs that I find unnatural. I found myself sometimes slipping into drag from a half crimp; sometimes it felt like I was putting more weight through one arm to take the weight off my weaker side. Sometimes felt like my fingers were twisting on the holds.
Maybe next is to try and add 5kg and do the same again and see how I get on, but to focus on trying to learn how to use the thing? One thing I did notice was that, although a repeaters session only takes about 15 minutes after warming up, it is monumentally dull. Thoughts welcome on where to go next with this.


Next week: new holds coming from rginns next week. Psyched to put them up and have a play. Keep meaning to do some pull ups to try and improve the shoulders. There has been some hypothesising by friends/the-hecklers-I-call-friends that my fingers are fine but it's the rest of the chain that is shit. I keep meaning to do a repeaters session of weighted pull ups but don't want to do it on the day before a board session so keep struggling to fit it in.

[Nutty]

Goals: Several nebulous, un-SMART things.

M: Garden board session. Worked the end of both mirror versions of one problem - could consistently do the move that's been a stopper from the ground and was close to doing the final move. Tried the two versions of another problem.
T: Rest.
W: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 20mm edge.
T: Rest.
F: Rest.
S: Fingerboard and mobility/body weight exercises - 5 x 20sec hangs: body weight +20%, 15mm edge.
S: Rest.

Dropped edge size for fingerboard for last session this week - went from 20 seconds being steady to having to really fight. This week I'll do one more fingerboard session to complete this block and hopefully do more garden board sessions.

[shark]

Goals: Several nebulous, un-SMART things.

Obviously I picked you up on this last week.

Your goals of not getting injured, staying healthy and sane makes sense as you are already there and you are aiming to maintain those states 

However, your “Get strong” goal means improvement to some desired future state but is meaningless unless you can describe and imagine what that state is - ideally backed up measurable strength things.

Personally I just look to beat each last session and if that ends up being able to one arm a first joint edge or whatever then great. I’m not going to aim for it as it is a ‘nice to do’ and also I want to remain sensible as in likelihood based on past experience it would be prudent to back off as I acquire tweaks. 

Having said that I might set some weightlifting benchmarks because if I reach a certain point with an exercise then any further gains would be superfluous towards achieving my main goals which are my outdoor projects.

Not having a go. Well actually I am. But in a positive way

[duncan]

STG: stay mentally stable

Glad I didn't put this on my lockdown goals, feels less achievable that pinky mono 1-armers at the moment. And that's not because my pinkies are strong.

Relative to this time last year I feel transformed. I've been getting some help, I don’t have to go into the office, and I’ve been cultivating gratitude for what I’ve got (family in good health, steady income). I’ve reached a degree of acceptance about not climbing and focused on training. From not hangboarding for decades, I now really look forward to my little sessions! 


STG: stay mentally stable, don’t get injured, do something active every day, work finger strength every other day.
MTG-LTG: who knows?

M - Knee strength (high step-ups, single leg squats). Sanded and oiled kitchen table, which is now looking lovely again. .
T - Fingerboard for late rehab./strength: 7s. on a 20mm edge, two arms.
W - Shoulders (one arm planks, handstands, tick-tocks).
T - Knees. Shoulders. Fingerboard as above.
F - Knees. Shoulders. Sanded and oiled coffee table. Watched The Big Bang: a disappointingly small amount of Emma and far too much mansplaining from has-beens.
S - Fingerboard as above. Started painting kitchen.
S - Finished painting kitchen. Looks great. 7km walk/jog/skip (this and every evening).

A week of frenzied DIY and some exercise.  Remarkably no injuries from either!

Elbow has recovered. Lock-down tummy is progressing well: up 2kg from a month ago and 5kg over fighting weight. 

Plan: start one arm hangs with lots of assistance. Per tomtom, mainly learn how to do the exercise with good form.

[tomtom]

Happy birthday Shark!

[JohnM]

After an early but very restrictive lockdown most of the restrictions have now been lifted in Austria. Hospital admission rates are approaching normal and the number of known new infections in Tirol was zero yesterday. Whether this has just bought time and it will flare up again quickly due to lack of herd immunity is yet to be seen. I suspect the number of people infected was probably significantly more than known though. Having spoken to a few people I know, where they and some of their close acquaintances/contacts tested positive for the virus, the symptoms were so mild it is likely it could have passed through a significant proportion of the younger demographic relatively undetected. The upside of all this is that you can travel wherever you like within Austria and most sports, including climbing, are now not illegal if practiced alone or with people in your household.

Weight: Settled down a bit to 146-148lbs after increasing movement and cutting down on the incessant snacking and drinking.

M: Climbing at Höttinger Graben, a decent conglomerate crag an hour to an hour and a half hike above Innsbruck. I had high expectations after all the pull ups and finger boarding and was hoping to feel bionic. The reality was I felt heavy and clunky and my left shoulder felt cranky in positions that were not front on pulling. Warmed up putting the clips in a bouldery 7c/7c+. Had a red point go but punted a relatively easy but morpho move after the crux. Had to go back down after that as the mrs had forgotten gloves and developed the worst Raynaud's I have ever seen. Not too bad a "session" on reflection.

T: Run 11.75km 478m elevation gain.

W: Run 11.09km 484m elevation gain.

T: Climbing at a local obscurity crag, Villerkopf, in the forest a short walk from the flat. The rock is the same as Dunkeld for anyone that knows it. Some quite nice climbs in the 5s and 6s and the hardest one, a 3 bolt 7a, that I managed to increase the value by doing a V5 boulder traverse into it. Nice to be out in the forest of an evening.

F: Run 20.55km with 1756m elevation gain. Got a PB on the main hill climb up to 1600m but also over-heated which is a real issue for me. Finished the rest of the run at a decent pace but felt a bit funny.

S: Climbing a Schleierwasserfall. Warmed up on a 7b stamina route that I have done a few times before to test how bad the fitness levels had got. I got a mild but manageable pump but felt more solid on the moves than in the past so not too bad overall. Put the draws in a 37m 8a+ I had tried briefly in the past. Although it was boiling hot, all the moves felt easier than I remembered but by the time I got to the top it was clear I was suffering from some kind of exhaustion/heat stroke. I had one red point attempt but I was cramping up by the time I got to the crux and didn't even have the energy to give it a proper go. Called it a day but great to be back at Schleier and see friends (from at least 2m away!).   

S: Run 30.78km with 1679m elevation gain. The nicest trail run I have done this year. First through a river valley littered with (chalked) boulders and blue water, then up though the forest to a peak and finally deep into a very impressive limestone gorge with tonnes of potential for new routing but with a minimum 3 hour approach! Had to remove 3 ticks when I got home so I hope I don't contract Limes.

A nice week and good to climb on rock again despite zero session fitness. I hope to do more this week and at least one or two training sessions but I also need to rest as I seem to be suffering from some kind of exhaustion/fatigue.

[Bradders]

Short version:

M - board & 2 arm 20s max hangs

T - little bit more on board then 2 arm repeaters + conditioning

W - set more holds on board

T - board, more holds set

F - yoga

S - big board, one arm repeaters and mono pick ups session

S - long walk + yoga + more hold setting

Long version below if you're interested/bored:

NSFW  :

M - warmed up watching Free Solo then on board. Mint cons. Tried my now project. Did all the moves in isolation and linked to move 6 of 7 but dropped it and couldn't link last 3 moves.  Nails. Went on the hang board and did 19mm edge half crimp 20s +10kg, +15kg, +20kg and 5x +25kg. Back out on the board and tried a new problem linking most of the black resin holds on there together, which actually makes a great sequence. Eventually managed all the moves and nearly linked but dabbed on crux 3rd move (hard drop down from a wide span) and fluffed the last move.

T - after evening dog walk warmed up on the board then tried the new one on black holds from the day before and did it 2nd go. Felt like first harder thing I've done on there although probably wouldn't even break into the 7s on the Depot 50. Anyway then went on the fingerboard and on 19mm edge half crimp did 1x 6r 7/3 repeaters at bodyweight, 3x 6r 7/3 repeaters +19.5kg, then on medium slopers 1x 3r 7/3 repeaters +19.5kg (failed 4th hang) then 6r 7/3 +4.5kg and last set 6r +9.5kg. Superset all but last set with circuits of 5 strict pull ups +4.5kg, 5 leg raises +4.5kg, 10 press ups and 30s planks.

W - rest. Was meant to yoga. Didn't. Put 20 new holds on board.

T - board. Pretty warm. Tried project again and linked last 3 moves for first time. 3 goes from start and dropped last move twice. Tried a pinchy one on new wood holds and did all moves but couldn't link through crux. Lots of goes. Then did a harder direct variant of my black holds one eliminating the two largest holds. Much harder, real fight. Maybe Depot 7A. Few goes at a move I've not done yet and couldn't do it, then finished with lots of goes on another pinchy wood one and made good links but couldn't do crux move in isolation. Warmed down putting another 20 new holds on.

F - managed to squeeze 25 mins of yoga into my busy schedule. Don't know why it feels so hard to commit to doing this!

S - warm up on the board. Started raining so got to test whether I can climb during; success! Made a couple of new ones using some of the lovely wood edges I put on in the week. Then experimental one arm hangs on BM2k large outside slots. Did a full half crimp 6r 7/3 repeaters set on each arm -15kg, then 3x 3r each arm half crimp 6/4 repeaters -10kg. Then same edge 3x 3r each arm open f3 6/4 repeaters -10kg. Then 1x 3r 10/10 M2 open on large outside slots -15kg and finally 1x 3r 10/10 middle open 10kg mono pick ups and 2x 6r 7/3 repeaters at same weight. Had intended to do a bit more on the board but forearms felt knackered. Warmed down with a bit more easy stuff though and then 4 sets of 10 pull ups and 20 push ups. Felt completely wasted after this session.

S - 6 and a bit mile walk, second half with a heavy rucksack full of food shopping, followed by 30mins of yoga/stretching. Put last 20 or so holds on board. Also had a look at my pulley set up for one arm hangs and, using a luggage scale, found that 10kg of plates as I was using on Saturday actually translates to up to 12kg of assistance.

[spidermonkey09]

Happy birthday Simon!

Weird week, suffered from a lot of headaches which is quite unusual for me. They seem to have disappeared now though which is good.

M- Easter Monday. Did a max hangs session as quietly as possible as girlfriend was sleeping in the next room having just got off nights. Did well and completed the set at +30kg. Did some TRX, 25 pullups and 40 pressups to finish. Didnt rouse gf from sleep coma 

T- Anderson hangs. Added 3.75kg kg as base weight on bottom outside and battery edge. Still bodyweight on the slopers. Any failure only occcurred right at the end of the last set which was good. Did some TRX and the bring sally up pushup challenge to over 3mins but wilted with the finish in sight. Fan arrived later in the day so i can't blame conditions any more.

W- some core. Went for a 10 miles bike ride and did some stretching. Seem to have irritated something in my inner thigh, possibly obturator nerve related. Feels like cramp when it strikes and makes getting off bike really hard/painful until it loosens. Cant make it hurt by poking it though which seems to suggest not muscular. Any advice welcome!

T- max hangs. 31.25 kg. first 3 sets were ok with effort but failed on the last two. Fan was good. TRX and assisted one armers to finish, bring sally up to 2.20. Shoulders gone by this stage.

F- anderson hangs. Added in the 10mm micros at the start of the session, so 4 grip types now. Felt ok at bodyweight. Stayed at 3.75kg on the edges and bodyweight on the slopers. Bottom outside felt like a jug with the fan on. Good session, really worked at the end. TRX, assisted one armers and bring sally up (2.30 ish) to finish.

S- some mild stretching and core on the bar. I am totally crap at this so going to make an effort to do it every day i have off the fingerboard. Got some exercises including knee raises, windscreen wipers, leg raises, l sits etc but any more appreciated. Particularly front lever training, which might have been mentioned in a thread elsewhere?

S- took chunk out of thumb when screwdriver slipped doing some pointless DIY around the house  once id got over my own stupidity taped it up and did a fingerboard session, max hangs this time. Completed set at 31.25kg so an improvement on last time, though form was a bit dodgy. Needs one more before i add more weight. Some assisted one armers culminating in bodyweight one armers and TRX to finish. Good session, probably a max hangs PB.

Good training week but starting to struggle with being cooped up. Miss climbing a lot and getting needlessly wound up by reports of others who seem to me to be stretching the guidance to suit themselves. Whoever is right its down to me to not get annoyed by it!

[Nibile]

Hip thrust 117.5kg x6, x6,

Hip thrust with 117 kg for reps? Really?
Or do you mean hip hinge?

[Will Hunt]

Nick. All this talk of a board and yet no photos of a board. Do you have a Spanish spotter as well? Bring the psyche please. Let's see your wood.

[shark]

Hip thrust 117.5kg x6, x6,

Hip thrust with 117 kg for reps? Really?
Or do you mean hip hinge?

Yes. Is that a lot or not much? I have no idea - I’ve only started doing them in the last three weeks.

Googled hip hinge and that looks like the straight legged deadlifts I do after when I’m pretty done in already from the hip thrusts so reckon I could do better on those if I did them first.

Video here of me doing hip thrusts



Any suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises usefull on the Oak throw and pressing down hard on feet when extended gratefully received

[cheque]

Ab ripper X.

Is Ab Ripper X the thing you do with a kind of workout-video of a hilariously cheesy guy?

Relative to this time last year I feel transformedI don’t have to go into the office, and I’ve been cultivating gratitude for what I’ve got (family in good health, steady income). I’ve reached a degree of acceptance about not climbing

Great to hear this Duncan. I’m finding lockdown surprisingly easy too- just don’t see myself as a climber at the moment (made easier by not having led a route since early December) and ignoring all but the basic details of the news is working wonders on that front.


 

Lock-down tummy is progressing well: up 2kg from a month ago and 5kg over fighting weight. 

Same here except I’ve put more than 3kg on in 3 weeks. 

M- Nothing.

T- Walk to Bell Hagg and back.

W- Nothing.

T- Deadlifting. 2 reps each at 50, 60, 70, 80, 90 & 100kg. 100 felt easier than it has done since doomsday. It’s actually the quad of my left leg (the side I fucked up) that stops me from going heavier in these lockdown lifting sessions. Taught my other half to deadlift which involved lots of reps at 20 & 30kg too.

F- Walk to and around the Bell Hagg area. I know this little bit of Sheffield like the back of my hand now! Noticed that I was getting out of breath going up hills- I guess the work I did to regain this fitness was over quite a short period so having not consolidated it it’s slipping away again?

S- Nothing. Built some shelves and lifted a few things but not really training.

S- 3x7 pull-ups, 3x30 push-ups. Noticed some left knee pain during the day- no idea what’s caused this but it’s on the left side so could be anything.

Not a stellar week but did some grunt work sessions which I’m getting stronger at. Need to add finger boarding back in this week.

A bit disconcerting that my leg is going weird and I’m losing my “puff” again but not really surprising given my history and the extent to which I’m following the “stay home” guideline. Need to get on the exercise bike or go for a run I think.

I have realised this week that I don’t need to rest my back after doing the dishes (for example) any more.  There are three possible causes of this- never carrying rucksacks around at the moment, only driving the short distance to the supermarket once a week and deadlifting. Hopefully it’s more the latter than the first two but we’ll have to see when things return to some kind of normal.

[Nibile]

Yes. Is that a lot or not much?

Any suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises

Wow.
I think it's a hell of a lot.
I'm not entirely sure that, apart from testing, it's a good idea to max out on them. I'd go for high reps range.
No suggestions, assuming that your straight legged deadlift is a Romanian one (with aptly bent knees).
Stick at them.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - tired. TB DL x 10, farmer's 30", shrugs back to back, x 10. Overhead carry.
Tue - recovery session, light boxing bag, nearly got carried out. Brilliant.
Wed - fingers, garage: best session of the last few years? Tested the 10 mm edge one armed, confirmed previous progress at - 9 kg LH and - 4 kg RH. Solid. Then the 14 mm edge at - 3/4 kg LH and - 2/1 kg RH. Then on to the 9 mm edge, regular back3 and front3 hangs. Tired. That is all with a quite strict half crimp. This was at a BW of 69 kg, so at least 2/3 kg heavier than before. Last Summer post surgery tactics seem to have worked. Full clean and press 3x5; DL, clean, press 5x5 in berween sets (40 kg).
Thu - tired. Board climbing, went nowhere. Weights, landmine complex.
Fri - recovery session, light boxing bag, theraband, gentle weights.
Sat - power clean 5x5 50 kg; press 5x5 40 kg; feet to celing 5x4; bar work; overhead barbell lunges; TB DL 50% (70 kg) x26.
Sun - DL with long eccentric tempo. Pull ups, one armers. Tired.

Fingers wise, payed the toll of Wednesday session all week.
Generally a bit tired from total absence of rest days.

[Will Hunt]

Is Ab Ripper X the thing you do with a kind of workout-video of a hilariously cheesy guy?

Yes! It became a cult thing in Leeds when Jacob Cook was in the University club. I'm not sure how widespread it was outside that but there was a video of some EuroWads going to do The Recovery Drink and there's a bit where they're lying in a car park somewhere doing Ab Ripper X.

I never did it when it was all the hype. I think tstub is quite disparaging of it. But: desperate times. Some of the exercises feel reasonably climbing specific, sitting on your bum with legs off the floor and out in front of you and holding an oblique sitting up position.

[teestub]

I think tstub is quite disparaging of it.

I hate it... but I love it

[Will Hunt]

 

One of the nice things about it is that it's very easy to slot into your day. Warm up for a few minutes and then it's a 15 minute thing. I had half and hour on Saturday between putting the sprog to bed and doing the washing up and firing up the laptop for a Tabletop Simulator game of Istanbul. Warmed up a bit and got stuck in.

I think that's what I liked about my repeaters session on Sunday. Once you've warmed up a bit you're only actually doing it for 15 minutes.

[shark]

Yes. Is that a lot or not much?

Any suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises

Wow.
I think it's a hell of a lot.
I'm not entirely sure that, apart from testing, it's a good idea to max out on them. I'd go for high reps range.
No suggestions, assuming that your straight legged deadlift is a Romanian one (with aptly bent knees).
Stick at them.

Thanks - no point continuing if it’s not a weak point.

The deadlifts have been straight legged once I’ve picked the bar up (plenty of vids around sometimes called stiff legged deadlift). The Romanian one looks good as it combines the hip thrust action.

I’ll check in with John Kettle and get his thoughts as he put me onto all these exercises

[nai]

Happy Brthday Simon.

You could try one leg hip thrusts, adds an extra element of instability


Buckle up for another thrilling instalment....

Goals: manage iffy left shoulder and tweaky back.

M - rest

T - Max hangs, decent session, felt streng, PBs.
Set and worked a lockdown project, small holds, gastons, and tension - weaknesses.  Four moves, I couldn't do two of them and could only do the second having fingers worked into place so a lot harder having moved onto the hold first, expect this to take a few sessions.

Vid but it's not very interesting 

W probably mobility

Th 4 Rep Repeaters. mix of 2 arm with added weight and one arm with assistance
2x 10 minutes on new problem, did first move (just) and close to the move right. Change the top into a move rather than gabbing a hold as you're falling off
TRX

F probably mobility

Sat - Didn't feel at max strength so 4RRs, same mix of one and two arm. pinky pickups
Front Squat, OH squat, Hip Thrusts, Hamstring extension, DL, squat landmines

Sun. Push day Had to warm up to do the hand stand t-shirt challenge thingy

[duncan]

Any suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises usefull on the Oak throw and pressing down hard on feet when extended gratefully received

Just to be clear, is this the move we're talking about?  Do you feel you're using both feet equally or favour one?  If one, then consider making your supporting exercises asymmetric to focus on that leg.

As well as using your hip and low back extensors (posterior chain if you prefer) you're pushing down hard through your toes and straightening your knees. Most of the movement is towards the end of hip and knee extension (straightening). Supporting exercises should aim to mimic this: you don't need to do a deep squat for example. As well as targeting the right muscles, to my mind the key looks to be developing the speed of movement. I'd say your supplementary exercises should be more about developing that 'snap' than brute strength. Consider squats and calf raises (or a combination) for speed: slow lower then power back up as fast as you can. Typically power training loads are much less than for strength training. I'm no expert but 40-50% MVC is sometimes quoted. If you're totally focusing on speed - eg with plyometrics - then bodyweight only or bodyweight plus a weight vest. This kind of exercise is harder to quantify and less satisfying than lifting a big weight but more likely to see a transferable benefit in my view.

Happy to defer to John Kettle obviously.

[nai]

One of my favourites for addressing the chain from above the head all the way to the toes is what I call planks walk-outs, but google doesn't agree with me so I filmed myself. Basically from press up position walk your hands out as far as you can, Glutes and abs squeezed, hold for a few seconds then walk your feet back into pressup, repeat until you run out of floor. 

Word of warning, it's pretty brutal on your shoulders so make sure they're healthy and not for a shoulder rest day.

[HarryBD]

Nice one everyone keeping it going

Good week for me in terms of training but I've been pretty fucking irritable, done a good job of recognising it before being a cunt to L so that's a win I guess. Also 80.8kg avg for the week which I'm well happy with.

M - Bike 40mins, 5x5 pullups 1min rest +4kg and 2x5 Offset on the powerbar bar each side @ BW, FB Max Hangs and Density Hangs in half crimp and 3 finger drag (Band assist), BD Core, Hip Mobility

T - Bike 50mins, 5 x 20 pressups, test pullups (17 reps)

W - Run 20mins, BD Core, FB Max Hangs and Density hangs in HC & 3FD

T - Ride 35mins

F - 20min run

S - 160min ride, 5x5 pullups 1min rest +8kg, BD Core, FB as above, hip flexibility

S - 60min walk up Ilkley Moor then 40min run down with L - really nice, 10 x 5 pullup @ BW mixed grips, hip flexibility

So achieved all week's targets. Will roll over to be same again this week. 4hrs cardio, sub 81kg avg, 3 FB, Pullup, Hip flexibility, core sessions

[sxrxg]

Vid but it's not very interesting 

I find this more interesting than just seeing everyone seemingly walk up board projects on instagram. Gives a good sense of how hard you are finding the individual moves. Will be excited to see the progress over the coming weeks.

[shark]

Any suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises usefull on the Oak throw and pressing down hard on feet when extended gratefully received

Thanks for this Duncan

]Just to be clear, is this the move we're talking about?

Yep

Do you feel you're using both feet equally or favour one?  If one, then consider making your supporting exercises asymmetric to focus on that leg.

Great question. At the moment driving much more off the right leg. BUT I experimented with Tom's method which uses a lower but much poorer right foothold down to the right which is much less bunched up and you drive slightly more off the left foot and is less powerful but is at absolute full stretch for me. I'm going to experiment with it when I go back on as I find the stronger my core is the better Im able to use lower footholds.

As well as using your hip and low back extensors (posterior chain if you prefer) you're pushing down hard through your toes and straightening your knees. Most of the movement is towards the end of hip and knee extension (straightening). Supporting exercises should aim to mimic this: you don't need to do a deep squat for example. As well as targeting the right muscles, to my mind the key looks to be developing the speed of movement. I'd say your supplementary exercises should be more about developing that 'snap' than brute strength.

Consider squats and calf raises (or a combination) for speed: slow lower then power back up as fast as you can. Typically power training loads are much less than for strength training. I'm no expert but 40-50% MVC is sometimes quoted. If you're totally focusing on speed - eg with plyometrics - then bodyweight only or bodyweight plus a weight vest. This kind of exercise is harder to quantify and less satisfying than lifting a big weight but more likely to see a transferable benefit in my view.

Bang on. John thought the best approach was to do a a period of pure strength to develop a base and then change to similar speed/power type exercises when the Malham season approached.

The front squat Im doing isn't deep but I hate it because I'm lifting it off the ground and it puts a lot of strain on my wrists and feels tweaky to get off (but better than a back squat in this respect) so alternatives very welcome.

I'll look into calf raises but I have always had huge calf muscles so doubt this is an issue

[shark]

One of my favourites for addressing the chain from above the head all the way to the toes is what I call planks walk-outs, but google doesn't agree with me so I filmed myself. Basically from press up position walk your hands out as far as you can, Glutes and abs squeezed, hold for a few seconds then walk your feet back into pressup, repeat until you run out of floor. 

Word of warning, it's pretty brutal on your shoulders so make sure they're healthy and not for a shoulder rest day.

Thanks nai - will look into this too.

AND thanks everyone for birthday wishes. Cheered up a bit now 

[yetix]

One of my favourites for addressing the chain from above the head all the way to the toes is what I call planks walk-outs, but google doesn't agree with me so I filmed myself. Basically from press up position walk your hands out as far as you can, Glutes and abs squeezed, hold for a few seconds then walk your feet back into pressup, repeat until you run out of floor. 

Word of warning, it's pretty brutal on your shoulders so make sure they're healthy and not for a shoulder rest day.

Looks quite similiar to doing I's on rings perhaps?

[webbo]

Any suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises usefull on the Oak throw and pressing down hard on feet when extended gratefully received

Thanks for this Duncan

]Just to be clear, is this the move we're talking about?

Yep

Do you feel you're using both feet equally or favour one?  If one, then consider making your supporting exercises asymmetric to focus on that leg.

Great question. At the moment driving much more off the right leg. BUT I experimented with Tom's method which uses a lower but much poorer right foothold down to the right which is much less bunched up and you drive slightly more off the left foot and is less powerful but is at absolute full stretch for me. I'm going to experiment with it when I go back on as I find the stronger my core is the better Im able to use lower footholds.

As well as using your hip and low back extensors (posterior chain if you prefer) you're pushing down hard through your toes and straightening your knees. Most of the movement is towards the end of hip and knee extension (straightening). Supporting exercises should aim to mimic this: you don't need to do a deep squat for example. As well as targeting the right muscles, to my mind the key looks to be developing the speed of movement. I'd say your supplementary exercises should be more about developing that 'snap' than brute strength.

Consider squats and calf raises (or a combination) for speed: slow lower then power back up as fast as you can. Typically power training loads are much less than for strength training. I'm no expert but 40-50% MVC is sometimes quoted. If you're totally focusing on speed - eg with plyometrics - then bodyweight only or bodyweight plus a weight vest. This kind of exercise is harder to quantify and less satisfying than lifting a big weight but more likely to see a transferable benefit in my view.

I'll look into calf raises but I have always had huge calf muscles so doubt this is an issue

The size of a muscle is not always an indication of how strong it is.

[Nibile]

Happy Birthday Shark!

[monkoffunk]

Happy birthday Shark!

Goals

Train hard in lockdown


M - Rest.

T – Pyramid of finger tip pull ups (4 at the top, 5 too much).
Max hangs, Lopez style. Max +20kg for 10 secs, mostly +15kg.
Core, leg raises, front lever reps (no where near holding).
Antagonists

W - Ideally would be rest day, but nights coming up so....
Yoga. Warm up. Finger tip pull up pyramid. 4 at top.
Tested back three vs front three hangs, unsurprisingly way weaker on back three.
More rest.
Experiment with one arm stuff. Never done this before properly. Using XX heavy theraband for assistance. Trying different holds, only able to use the medium slots at the edge (BM2000) for anything resembling useful time (~4 sec) with arm just off straight.

T - Rest

F - Various push ups.

S - Warm up. Few campus moves between holds.
Finger tip pull up pyramid, 4 at top.
Long rest. Re warm up.
Weighted pull ups rock rings, sacked it third set as elbow feeling a bit weird and didn’t want to push it on basically no sleep.
Press ups.
Hanging leg raises.

S - Woke up at about 1300 and never quite felt right.
Yoga.
Aimed to do some finger strength stuff.  Warmed up. Few one arm hangs with XX heavy theraband. Left felt way stronger than right. Was going to do some Hörst style max hangs but couldn’t hold +20kg for 10 secs. Not enough sleep, not enough rest. Instead did a handful of 1-2min foot on problems. Press ups. Front lever reps. Hanging leg raises.


Training this week not entirely as planned. Some issues with fitting sessions in around work and not being in optimal condition to train. Mostly due to working nights, and obvious implications of lack of sleep on training quality. However, over all still felt useful and stopped at any point if felt slightest bit tweaky. No nights this week; will aim to structure week more sensibly after some rest. Biggest positive was completing even one +20kg max hang, which was my standard this time last year (but weighing 6-7kg less).

[thekettle]

Happy Birthday Shark! 
Hello Power Clubbers 
You are definitely scoring high on your hip thrusts. A small sceptical voice in me suspects it may be to do with your esoteric home set-up but I can't honestly see a good reason for it to give you magical strength gains.
You're right about laying down a base of global strength, that was my initial suggestion hence the exercise selection. Getting more specific about the strengthening, and moving towards a power focus would be next on the list, and I think could actually be delayed a couple of months given your autumn target.
As far as possible, (Covid aside) I would try and gain the very specific power and strength through climbing and projecting as this aligns better with your motivation than indoor training, and you've created the time in your schedule to do this, given the right approach.
If you want to go more specific with strength training I'd consider three options:

1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBers, and run some 5 week experiments to see which exercises suit you best (ideally testing on an Oak replica if one becomes available)
2) Carry on as you are for a few more weeks as there is little time pressure, then review, with the potential option to resume frequent climbing and bouldering.
3) Get an experienced strength and condition coach who knows climbing for specific guidance. I can recommend some.

Beyond the basic gym lifts and climbing-specific/FB work I'm near the limit of my current S&C knowledge, so while I can try and answer questions I wouldn't be comfortable charging you for detailed exercise advice. Essentially I'd be straying into 'it worked for me so it might work for you' territory.
Along with the wisdom of the UKBers, I do think some targeted isometrics may be worthwhile (a la Tyler Nelson) once you're closer to getting on the Oak.

[Coops_13]

The upside of all this is that you can travel wherever you like within Austria and most sports, including climbing, are now not illegal if practiced alone or with people in your household.

Great to hear about your climbing John! Keep at it to keep our psyche levels high till we can get out

[Coops_13]

M: 100 press-ups, TA focused core workout. Bicep curls and shoulder press to failure * 3 sets, 40lb

T: 50 pull-ups. Beastly 6C repeaters workout - felt hard, need more rest. Lower body stretching

W: 50 press-ups, stopped at 50 as wrist felt a bit tweaky. 300 core movements. Weights - Biceps, shoulders, chest, lateral and front raise * 5 reps * 3 sets

T: 50 pull-ups. 10 front lever max holds. Lower body stretching. Light legs workout

F: 100 pull-ups. Two arm max hangs, 10s hangs. 14mm +30lb, 10mm +5lb, 14mm +30lb, 10mm +5lb, 14mm +30lb, 10mm +5lb. Crimpd finger curl hypertrophy to finish 40lb

S: 100 press-ups. 300 core movements. Weights - Biceps, shoulders, chest, lateral and front raise * 5 reps * 3 sets

S: 50 pull-ups.  Beastly 6C repeaters workout - tried to use correct holds (2-finger pockets) but couldn't hang BW on those. Lower body stretching. Tried front lever that evening, held 3 seconds with bad form (arse sag)!

Wrist feeling a touch tweaky - think I may go to one on one off then double rest day after too fingerboard sessions (one max hang, one repeaters).

Up to 1150 press-ups, 925 pull-ups since lockdown

[shark]

1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBers, and run some 5 week experiments to see which exercises suit you best (ideally testing on an Oak replica if one becomes available)
2) Carry on as you are for a few more weeks as there is little time pressure, then review, with the potential option to resume frequent climbing and bouldering.
3) Get an experienced strength and condition coach who knows climbing for specific guidance. I can recommend some.

Thanks John - Option 2 sounds good. Will do straight leg and Romanian deadlifts before the hip thrusts  in sessions from now on. Having a lighter week this week and then perhaps 4 or 5 more weight lifting sessions and start to have board sessions as tip fully heals. 

[measles23]

Happy birthday Shark

68kg

M- 8 sets campus board drop downs, still struggling with friction but managed singles on 4 to 1s.
14 sets max hangs BM2k smalls, 3 finger drags up to (+30kg x 5s) x 3

T- Ring muscle-ups 5 singles, still struggling to get multiples..
Weighted pull-ups 8 sets up to +40kg x 3

W- Max hangs BM2k smalls open crimp 11 sets up to (+40kg x 5s) x 5, 6 working sets per side of pulley assists at -20kg, finished with 3 x 5s BW (+ dinner) hangs on BM 10s..

T- DL 12 sets up to single at 215 (3.16BW)- solid lift but couldn’t repeat it, so I think this could be the end of the easy gains and will have to work to get more - heavily motivated by the fact I recently discovered I don’t have the UK ENT record in the bag, as my bastard registrar has lifted 235 (@ fat bastard weight); some healthy competition now! Finished with a 3x3 at 180, which was horrible, so will probably cycle using block singles as I did last time I got up to 230..

Some easy board problems and a little bachar laddering

F- rest

S- 8 sets per side drop downs on campus board. something clicked with friction; sanding def helped - back to feeling totally comfortable on 4 to 1s
Max hangs BM2k smalls 3 finger drags 7 sets inc (+35 x 5s) x 3
4 working sets per side pulley assists at -15kg

S- 7 sets ring muscle-ups. Technique clicked, now happily multiples up to a triple..
Weighted pull-ups 9 sets up to +45kg x 2
Finished with body weight staggered ring pull-ups 5 sets of triples per side- never done these they were great fun; felt super similar to 1 armers, only with as much or little assist as you like; great accessory exercise..

Feel well acclimatised now, having not trained for 18/12 - nothing too injured, weight under control, have reached base-line strength standards for me, so time to push towards PBs- will be harder work from now..

Also hoping for a wood delivery so I can set up a proper steep board this week..

[moose]

I think that's what I liked about my repeaters session on Sunday. Once you've warmed up a bit you're only actually doing it for 15 minutes.

Crikey, my usual repeaters work out (a twice weekly thing) takes around 1.5 hours - I guess that's a combination of masochism and inefficiency!  I do three of the routines on the Beastmaker app - each of which is x7 hangs of 7s "on"/ 3s "off" for 7 different grips (usually 4 finger half crimp, slopers, 3 finger open, smaller 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 2, front 2).  It's pretty gruelling - but I'm hoping that it provides the same stimulus as a full day's bouldering, to make up for my "lost" weekends.

[nai]

1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBers

Are you aware how this works in reality?

8B boulderer says try some Repeaters. Simon sticks to max hangs
8b onsighter says go to lots of places and try lots of problems, lots of moves, definitely don't keep going on Ben's. Simon tries it for a while then decides to keep going on Ben's
9a climber suggests Simon is strong enough for the Oak but should work AnCap. Simon tries a long boulder problem that he can only do in short sections and calls it endurance training.
Highly experienced redpointer suggests Simon take a top down approach to the Oak working longer and longer links. Simon continues ground-up.

[abarro81]

8b onsighter says go to lots of places and try lots of problems, lots of moves, definitely don't keep going on Ben's. Simon tries it for a while then decides to keep going on Ben's and then once he's done it immediately starts on an eliminate version of it rather than doing something like, I don't know, a hard move of an undercut on a slightly overhanging wall like is available at Rubicon or forest rock or anston or various other places

[Will Hunt]

I think that's what I liked about my repeaters session on Sunday. Once you've warmed up a bit you're only actually doing it for 15 minutes.

Crikey, my usual repeaters work out (a twice weekly thing) takes around 1.5 hours - I guess that's a combination of masochism and inefficiency!  I do three of the routines on the Beastmaker app - each of which is x7 hangs of 7s "on"/ 3s "off" for 7 different grips (usually 4 finger half crimp, slopers, 3 finger open, smaller 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 2, front 2).  It's pretty gruelling - but I'm hoping that it provides the same stimulus as a full day's bouldering, to make up for my "lost" weekends.

Jesus. 1.5 hours on a fingerboard sounds so so dull. I was just going off the 6 sets of 6 reps model.

[Coops_13]

I think that's what I liked about my repeaters session on Sunday. Once you've warmed up a bit you're only actually doing it for 15 minutes.

Crikey, my usual repeaters work out (a twice weekly thing) takes around 1.5 hours - I guess that's a combination of masochism and inefficiency!  I do three of the routines on the Beastmaker app - each of which is x7 hangs of 7s "on"/ 3s "off" for 7 different grips (usually 4 finger half crimp, slopers, 3 finger open, smaller 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 2, front 2).  It's pretty gruelling - but I'm hoping that it provides the same stimulus as a full day's bouldering, to make up for my "lost" weekends.

Jesus. 1.5 hours on a fingerboard sounds so so dull. I was just going off the 6 sets of 6 reps model.

I find the standard Beastmaker app of 2 lots of 6 sets of 6 reps) giving effectively 12 sets is a good amount of volume for me. Maybe double yours Will?

[thekettle]

1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBers

Are you aware how this works in reality?

8B boulderer says try some Repeaters. Simon sticks to max hangs
8b onsighter says go to lots of places and try lots of problems, lots of moves, definitely don't keep going on Ben's. Simon tries it for a while then decides to keep going on Ben's
9a climber suggests Simon is strong enough for the Oak but should work AnCap. Simon tries a long boulder problem that he can only do in short sections and calls it endurance training.
Highly experienced redpointer suggests Simon take a top down approach to the Oak working longer and longer links. Simon continues ground-up.

So harsh! 

I see it as a negotiation between the 'ultimate perfect solution' and Sharks current routine. There's only so far most of us are prepared to shuffle away from our habits, so it's always a compromise for anyone but the few obsessively psyched.

[Will Hunt]

shuffle away

Wasn't that the eatswood phase?

I think Power Club was incepted as a way for Shark to get advice for the Oak? This is edition 527 

[205Chris]

I think Power Club was incepted as a way for Shark to get advice for the Oak? This is edition 527 

Maybe he's taking the Thomas Edison approach? "I haven't failed -- I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work."

[Nibile]

Jesus. 1.5 hours on a fingerboard sounds so so dull.

Yeah. It's much better to spend the lockdown on morpho reachy board problems...

[spidermonkey09]

Anderson hangs are a good way to structure the repeaters. See previous threads for explanation.

I genuinely dont find them boring. Each set is a challenge in its own right. You just need some good music or a podcast in the background.

[Murph]

Nothing interesting still struggling.

M-5k jog, rehab
T-tried some press ups but still shoulder not right, rehab
W-5k jog, dishes
T-dishes, rehab
F-5k jog
S-rehab stretches
S-rehab stretches

Apart from the jogging I'm not doing much at all. Good work everyone who is!

[moose]

Jesus. 1.5 hours on a fingerboard sounds so so dull.

Yeah. It's much better to spend the lockdown on morpho reachy board problems...

Indirect praise from the Nibs! A month of lock-down now feels worthwhile! 

Given that I am very weedy with no general strength, I am clinging to the hope that months of bodyweight / core floor exercises, pull-ups, TRX, long walks, and gruelling fingerboard sessions might actually improve my overall fitness (not an important consideration in the great scheme of things, but I am focussing on what I can control).  I am doing more exercise now than for any time ever (and I am still working full time).  Overall I'm deluding myself that Covid is the weird background to a block of a periodised training schedule; one that leaves me strong in fingers and core, but with awful technique! 

[Nibile]

Indirect praise from the Nibs!
  absolutely!

Overall I'm deluding myself that Covid is the weird background to a block of a periodised training schedule; one that leaves me strong in fingers and core, but with awful technique!

Come on, your technique abilities won't disappear in a few months! If you stick to training even after the lockdown, you'll see lots of progress.

[sdm]

I keep meaning to do a repeaters session of weighted pull ups but don't want to do it on the day before a board session so keep struggling to fit it in.

Do your weighted pull-ups after the board session? Your board season is unlikely to have had the pull-up muscles working maximally so it should be ok to do them after.

[Yossarian]

After starting crazy commute / being resigned to 2020 being an unpleasant divorce year I pretty much gave up on training in the early weeks of the year. Thanks to a combination of train beers (a slippery slope having given up for a couple of years), rampant pasta feasts and early lockdown boozing I got on the scale the Monday before last to discover that I was a solid 104.5kg / 16.5 stone. Previous weight was around 88kg in November. I immediately decided I had to do something about this, and also that, if I’m going to push on with climbing goals from 2019 then I need to figure out a work plan that will allow more working from home and less being out of the house from 6.20am to 9pm 5 days a week. With my job contract finishing at the end of the month, I’m actually pretty syked to regain the lost fitness and figure out a new plan for making work and climbing slightly more harmonious.

M - No booze
T - Various kettlebell stuff. However much I warm up I always find KB swings cause horrid tight hamstrings and John Wayne walk. KB press felt ok.
Fingerboard - took this very gently, standing on scales, etc. I’ve previously struggled with enthusiasm for half crimping, often slumping into a chisel, so trying to be stricter about this from now on.
Pull-ups - could only manage 5x - previously 10-12. Managed 5 sets just.
Pushups also felt hard.
W - Had planned to run, but legs felt a bit weird. Did some more KB, including goblet squats (I never did any leg stuff previously, but had noticed for a while that I was weak at pushing up on one leg on slabs, etc at the wall, so will try to work on this. Did some dumbbell lunges - legs felt very weird and wobbly after that.
T - Woke up pretty much unable to walk. Rest.
F - Fingerboard - felt a bit less uncomfortable, but still fairly desperate.
10x 5xpullups
S - 50 KB press, 100 push-ups, flexor and extensor curls (not really done before, going to try to stick with them now), triceps extension, some hanging knee raises, etc
S - Another fingerboard session. 10x sets of 6 pull-ups (feeling better), some biceps / hammer curls, bit of stretching.

Weight down to 102.0kg by Monday morning. Had been intending to run, but might start that when I’m a little lighter. Have been doing intermittent fasts (sorry Nibs) including a few days of 22-23 hours.

Have new lead re timber supply for our garden board - fingers crossed. If we can get that built then I’m pretty optimistic about ploughing on with lots of training through the summer, and then making space for a version 2 of the board in the garage for the winter. Pretty clear we’re unlikely to be selling the house / separating this year, so may as well make the most of it...

[Nibile]

Take. Your. Time. And. Don't. Rush. Things.
Think. Long. Term.