[nai]

Happy Brthday Simon.

You could try one leg hip thrusts, adds an extra element of instability


Buckle up for another thrilling instalment....

Goals: manage iffy left shoulder and tweaky back.

M - rest

T - Max hangs, decent session, felt streng, PBs.
Set and worked a lockdown project, small holds, gastons, and tension - weaknesses.  Four moves, I couldn't do two of them and could only do the second having fingers worked into place so a lot harder having moved onto the hold first, expect this to take a few sessions.

Vid but it's not very interesting 

W probably mobility

Th 4 Rep Repeaters. mix of 2 arm with added weight and one arm with assistance
2x 10 minutes on new problem, did first move (just) and close to the move right. Change the top into a move rather than gabbing a hold as you're falling off
TRX

F probably mobility

Sat - Didn't feel at max strength so 4RRs, same mix of one and two arm. pinky pickups
Front Squat, OH squat, Hip Thrusts, Hamstring extension, DL, squat landmines

Sun. Push day Had to warm up to do the hand stand t-shirt challenge thingy

[duncan]

Any suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises usefull on the Oak throw and pressing down hard on feet when extended gratefully received

Just to be clear, is this the move we're talking about?  Do you feel you're using both feet equally or favour one?  If one, then consider making your supporting exercises asymmetric to focus on that leg.

As well as using your hip and low back extensors (posterior chain if you prefer) you're pushing down hard through your toes and straightening your knees. Most of the movement is towards the end of hip and knee extension (straightening). Supporting exercises should aim to mimic this: you don't need to do a deep squat for example. As well as targeting the right muscles, to my mind the key looks to be developing the speed of movement. I'd say your supplementary exercises should be more about developing that 'snap' than brute strength. Consider squats and calf raises (or a combination) for speed: slow lower then power back up as fast as you can. Typically power training loads are much less than for strength training. I'm no expert but 40-50% MVC is sometimes quoted. If you're totally focusing on speed - eg with plyometrics - then bodyweight only or bodyweight plus a weight vest. This kind of exercise is harder to quantify and less satisfying than lifting a big weight but more likely to see a transferable benefit in my view.

Happy to defer to John Kettle obviously.

[nai]

One of my favourites for addressing the chain from above the head all the way to the toes is what I call planks walk-outs, but google doesn't agree with me so I filmed myself. Basically from press up position walk your hands out as far as you can, Glutes and abs squeezed, hold for a few seconds then walk your feet back into pressup, repeat until you run out of floor. 

Word of warning, it's pretty brutal on your shoulders so make sure they're healthy and not for a shoulder rest day.

[HarryBD]

Nice one everyone keeping it going

Good week for me in terms of training but I've been pretty fucking irritable, done a good job of recognising it before being a cunt to L so that's a win I guess. Also 80.8kg avg for the week which I'm well happy with.

M - Bike 40mins, 5x5 pullups 1min rest +4kg and 2x5 Offset on the powerbar bar each side @ BW, FB Max Hangs and Density Hangs in half crimp and 3 finger drag (Band assist), BD Core, Hip Mobility

T - Bike 50mins, 5 x 20 pressups, test pullups (17 reps)

W - Run 20mins, BD Core, FB Max Hangs and Density hangs in HC & 3FD

T - Ride 35mins

F - 20min run

S - 160min ride, 5x5 pullups 1min rest +8kg, BD Core, FB as above, hip flexibility

S - 60min walk up Ilkley Moor then 40min run down with L - really nice, 10 x 5 pullup @ BW mixed grips, hip flexibility

So achieved all week's targets. Will roll over to be same again this week. 4hrs cardio, sub 81kg avg, 3 FB, Pullup, Hip flexibility, core sessions

[sxrxg]

Vid but it's not very interesting 

I find this more interesting than just seeing everyone seemingly walk up board projects on instagram. Gives a good sense of how hard you are finding the individual moves. Will be excited to see the progress over the coming weeks.

[shark]

Any suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises usefull on the Oak throw and pressing down hard on feet when extended gratefully received

Thanks for this Duncan

]Just to be clear, is this the move we're talking about?

Yep

Do you feel you're using both feet equally or favour one?  If one, then consider making your supporting exercises asymmetric to focus on that leg.

Great question. At the moment driving much more off the right leg. BUT I experimented with Tom's method which uses a lower but much poorer right foothold down to the right which is much less bunched up and you drive slightly more off the left foot and is less powerful but is at absolute full stretch for me. I'm going to experiment with it when I go back on as I find the stronger my core is the better Im able to use lower footholds.

As well as using your hip and low back extensors (posterior chain if you prefer) you're pushing down hard through your toes and straightening your knees. Most of the movement is towards the end of hip and knee extension (straightening). Supporting exercises should aim to mimic this: you don't need to do a deep squat for example. As well as targeting the right muscles, to my mind the key looks to be developing the speed of movement. I'd say your supplementary exercises should be more about developing that 'snap' than brute strength.

Consider squats and calf raises (or a combination) for speed: slow lower then power back up as fast as you can. Typically power training loads are much less than for strength training. I'm no expert but 40-50% MVC is sometimes quoted. If you're totally focusing on speed - eg with plyometrics - then bodyweight only or bodyweight plus a weight vest. This kind of exercise is harder to quantify and less satisfying than lifting a big weight but more likely to see a transferable benefit in my view.

Bang on. John thought the best approach was to do a a period of pure strength to develop a base and then change to similar speed/power type exercises when the Malham season approached.

The front squat Im doing isn't deep but I hate it because I'm lifting it off the ground and it puts a lot of strain on my wrists and feels tweaky to get off (but better than a back squat in this respect) so alternatives very welcome.

I'll look into calf raises but I have always had huge calf muscles so doubt this is an issue

[shark]

One of my favourites for addressing the chain from above the head all the way to the toes is what I call planks walk-outs, but google doesn't agree with me so I filmed myself. Basically from press up position walk your hands out as far as you can, Glutes and abs squeezed, hold for a few seconds then walk your feet back into pressup, repeat until you run out of floor. 

Word of warning, it's pretty brutal on your shoulders so make sure they're healthy and not for a shoulder rest day.

Thanks nai - will look into this too.

AND thanks everyone for birthday wishes. Cheered up a bit now 

[yetix]

One of my favourites for addressing the chain from above the head all the way to the toes is what I call planks walk-outs, but google doesn't agree with me so I filmed myself. Basically from press up position walk your hands out as far as you can, Glutes and abs squeezed, hold for a few seconds then walk your feet back into pressup, repeat until you run out of floor. 

Word of warning, it's pretty brutal on your shoulders so make sure they're healthy and not for a shoulder rest day.

Looks quite similiar to doing I's on rings perhaps?

[webbo]

Any suggestions on similar posterior chain exercises usefull on the Oak throw and pressing down hard on feet when extended gratefully received

Thanks for this Duncan

]Just to be clear, is this the move we're talking about?

Yep

Do you feel you're using both feet equally or favour one?  If one, then consider making your supporting exercises asymmetric to focus on that leg.

Great question. At the moment driving much more off the right leg. BUT I experimented with Tom's method which uses a lower but much poorer right foothold down to the right which is much less bunched up and you drive slightly more off the left foot and is less powerful but is at absolute full stretch for me. I'm going to experiment with it when I go back on as I find the stronger my core is the better Im able to use lower footholds.

As well as using your hip and low back extensors (posterior chain if you prefer) you're pushing down hard through your toes and straightening your knees. Most of the movement is towards the end of hip and knee extension (straightening). Supporting exercises should aim to mimic this: you don't need to do a deep squat for example. As well as targeting the right muscles, to my mind the key looks to be developing the speed of movement. I'd say your supplementary exercises should be more about developing that 'snap' than brute strength.

Consider squats and calf raises (or a combination) for speed: slow lower then power back up as fast as you can. Typically power training loads are much less than for strength training. I'm no expert but 40-50% MVC is sometimes quoted. If you're totally focusing on speed - eg with plyometrics - then bodyweight only or bodyweight plus a weight vest. This kind of exercise is harder to quantify and less satisfying than lifting a big weight but more likely to see a transferable benefit in my view.

I'll look into calf raises but I have always had huge calf muscles so doubt this is an issue

The size of a muscle is not always an indication of how strong it is.

[Nibile]

Happy Birthday Shark!

[monkoffunk]

Happy birthday Shark!

Goals

Train hard in lockdown


M - Rest.

T – Pyramid of finger tip pull ups (4 at the top, 5 too much).
Max hangs, Lopez style. Max +20kg for 10 secs, mostly +15kg.
Core, leg raises, front lever reps (no where near holding).
Antagonists

W - Ideally would be rest day, but nights coming up so....
Yoga. Warm up. Finger tip pull up pyramid. 4 at top.
Tested back three vs front three hangs, unsurprisingly way weaker on back three.
More rest.
Experiment with one arm stuff. Never done this before properly. Using XX heavy theraband for assistance. Trying different holds, only able to use the medium slots at the edge (BM2000) for anything resembling useful time (~4 sec) with arm just off straight.

T - Rest

F - Various push ups.

S - Warm up. Few campus moves between holds.
Finger tip pull up pyramid, 4 at top.
Long rest. Re warm up.
Weighted pull ups rock rings, sacked it third set as elbow feeling a bit weird and didn’t want to push it on basically no sleep.
Press ups.
Hanging leg raises.

S - Woke up at about 1300 and never quite felt right.
Yoga.
Aimed to do some finger strength stuff.  Warmed up. Few one arm hangs with XX heavy theraband. Left felt way stronger than right. Was going to do some Hörst style max hangs but couldn’t hold +20kg for 10 secs. Not enough sleep, not enough rest. Instead did a handful of 1-2min foot on problems. Press ups. Front lever reps. Hanging leg raises.


Training this week not entirely as planned. Some issues with fitting sessions in around work and not being in optimal condition to train. Mostly due to working nights, and obvious implications of lack of sleep on training quality. However, over all still felt useful and stopped at any point if felt slightest bit tweaky. No nights this week; will aim to structure week more sensibly after some rest. Biggest positive was completing even one +20kg max hang, which was my standard this time last year (but weighing 6-7kg less).

[thekettle]

Happy Birthday Shark! 
Hello Power Clubbers 
You are definitely scoring high on your hip thrusts. A small sceptical voice in me suspects it may be to do with your esoteric home set-up but I can't honestly see a good reason for it to give you magical strength gains.
You're right about laying down a base of global strength, that was my initial suggestion hence the exercise selection. Getting more specific about the strengthening, and moving towards a power focus would be next on the list, and I think could actually be delayed a couple of months given your autumn target.
As far as possible, (Covid aside) I would try and gain the very specific power and strength through climbing and projecting as this aligns better with your motivation than indoor training, and you've created the time in your schedule to do this, given the right approach.
If you want to go more specific with strength training I'd consider three options:

1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBers, and run some 5 week experiments to see which exercises suit you best (ideally testing on an Oak replica if one becomes available)
2) Carry on as you are for a few more weeks as there is little time pressure, then review, with the potential option to resume frequent climbing and bouldering.
3) Get an experienced strength and condition coach who knows climbing for specific guidance. I can recommend some.

Beyond the basic gym lifts and climbing-specific/FB work I'm near the limit of my current S&C knowledge, so while I can try and answer questions I wouldn't be comfortable charging you for detailed exercise advice. Essentially I'd be straying into 'it worked for me so it might work for you' territory.
Along with the wisdom of the UKBers, I do think some targeted isometrics may be worthwhile (a la Tyler Nelson) once you're closer to getting on the Oak.

[Coops_13]

The upside of all this is that you can travel wherever you like within Austria and most sports, including climbing, are now not illegal if practiced alone or with people in your household.

Great to hear about your climbing John! Keep at it to keep our psyche levels high till we can get out

[Coops_13]

M: 100 press-ups, TA focused core workout. Bicep curls and shoulder press to failure * 3 sets, 40lb

T: 50 pull-ups. Beastly 6C repeaters workout - felt hard, need more rest. Lower body stretching

W: 50 press-ups, stopped at 50 as wrist felt a bit tweaky. 300 core movements. Weights - Biceps, shoulders, chest, lateral and front raise * 5 reps * 3 sets

T: 50 pull-ups. 10 front lever max holds. Lower body stretching. Light legs workout

F: 100 pull-ups. Two arm max hangs, 10s hangs. 14mm +30lb, 10mm +5lb, 14mm +30lb, 10mm +5lb, 14mm +30lb, 10mm +5lb. Crimpd finger curl hypertrophy to finish 40lb

S: 100 press-ups. 300 core movements. Weights - Biceps, shoulders, chest, lateral and front raise * 5 reps * 3 sets

S: 50 pull-ups.  Beastly 6C repeaters workout - tried to use correct holds (2-finger pockets) but couldn't hang BW on those. Lower body stretching. Tried front lever that evening, held 3 seconds with bad form (arse sag)!

Wrist feeling a touch tweaky - think I may go to one on one off then double rest day after too fingerboard sessions (one max hang, one repeaters).

Up to 1150 press-ups, 925 pull-ups since lockdown

[shark]

1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBers, and run some 5 week experiments to see which exercises suit you best (ideally testing on an Oak replica if one becomes available)
2) Carry on as you are for a few more weeks as there is little time pressure, then review, with the potential option to resume frequent climbing and bouldering.
3) Get an experienced strength and condition coach who knows climbing for specific guidance. I can recommend some.

Thanks John - Option 2 sounds good. Will do straight leg and Romanian deadlifts before the hip thrusts  in sessions from now on. Having a lighter week this week and then perhaps 4 or 5 more weight lifting sessions and start to have board sessions as tip fully heals. 

[measles23]

Happy birthday Shark

68kg

M- 8 sets campus board drop downs, still struggling with friction but managed singles on 4 to 1s.
14 sets max hangs BM2k smalls, 3 finger drags up to (+30kg x 5s) x 3

T- Ring muscle-ups 5 singles, still struggling to get multiples..
Weighted pull-ups 8 sets up to +40kg x 3

W- Max hangs BM2k smalls open crimp 11 sets up to (+40kg x 5s) x 5, 6 working sets per side of pulley assists at -20kg, finished with 3 x 5s BW (+ dinner) hangs on BM 10s..

T- DL 12 sets up to single at 215 (3.16BW)- solid lift but couldn’t repeat it, so I think this could be the end of the easy gains and will have to work to get more - heavily motivated by the fact I recently discovered I don’t have the UK ENT record in the bag, as my bastard registrar has lifted 235 (@ fat bastard weight); some healthy competition now! Finished with a 3x3 at 180, which was horrible, so will probably cycle using block singles as I did last time I got up to 230..

Some easy board problems and a little bachar laddering

F- rest

S- 8 sets per side drop downs on campus board. something clicked with friction; sanding def helped - back to feeling totally comfortable on 4 to 1s
Max hangs BM2k smalls 3 finger drags 7 sets inc (+35 x 5s) x 3
4 working sets per side pulley assists at -15kg

S- 7 sets ring muscle-ups. Technique clicked, now happily multiples up to a triple..
Weighted pull-ups 9 sets up to +45kg x 2
Finished with body weight staggered ring pull-ups 5 sets of triples per side- never done these they were great fun; felt super similar to 1 armers, only with as much or little assist as you like; great accessory exercise..

Feel well acclimatised now, having not trained for 18/12 - nothing too injured, weight under control, have reached base-line strength standards for me, so time to push towards PBs- will be harder work from now..

Also hoping for a wood delivery so I can set up a proper steep board this week..

[moose]

I think that's what I liked about my repeaters session on Sunday. Once you've warmed up a bit you're only actually doing it for 15 minutes.

Crikey, my usual repeaters work out (a twice weekly thing) takes around 1.5 hours - I guess that's a combination of masochism and inefficiency!  I do three of the routines on the Beastmaker app - each of which is x7 hangs of 7s "on"/ 3s "off" for 7 different grips (usually 4 finger half crimp, slopers, 3 finger open, smaller 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 2, front 2).  It's pretty gruelling - but I'm hoping that it provides the same stimulus as a full day's bouldering, to make up for my "lost" weekends.

[nai]

1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBers

Are you aware how this works in reality?

8B boulderer says try some Repeaters. Simon sticks to max hangs
8b onsighter says go to lots of places and try lots of problems, lots of moves, definitely don't keep going on Ben's. Simon tries it for a while then decides to keep going on Ben's
9a climber suggests Simon is strong enough for the Oak but should work AnCap. Simon tries a long boulder problem that he can only do in short sections and calls it endurance training.
Highly experienced redpointer suggests Simon take a top down approach to the Oak working longer and longer links. Simon continues ground-up.

[abarro81]

8b onsighter says go to lots of places and try lots of problems, lots of moves, definitely don't keep going on Ben's. Simon tries it for a while then decides to keep going on Ben's and then once he's done it immediately starts on an eliminate version of it rather than doing something like, I don't know, a hard move of an undercut on a slightly overhanging wall like is available at Rubicon or forest rock or anston or various other places

[Will Hunt]

I think that's what I liked about my repeaters session on Sunday. Once you've warmed up a bit you're only actually doing it for 15 minutes.

Crikey, my usual repeaters work out (a twice weekly thing) takes around 1.5 hours - I guess that's a combination of masochism and inefficiency!  I do three of the routines on the Beastmaker app - each of which is x7 hangs of 7s "on"/ 3s "off" for 7 different grips (usually 4 finger half crimp, slopers, 3 finger open, smaller 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 2, front 2).  It's pretty gruelling - but I'm hoping that it provides the same stimulus as a full day's bouldering, to make up for my "lost" weekends.

Jesus. 1.5 hours on a fingerboard sounds so so dull. I was just going off the 6 sets of 6 reps model.

[Coops_13]

I think that's what I liked about my repeaters session on Sunday. Once you've warmed up a bit you're only actually doing it for 15 minutes.

Crikey, my usual repeaters work out (a twice weekly thing) takes around 1.5 hours - I guess that's a combination of masochism and inefficiency!  I do three of the routines on the Beastmaker app - each of which is x7 hangs of 7s "on"/ 3s "off" for 7 different grips (usually 4 finger half crimp, slopers, 3 finger open, smaller 4 finger half crimp, middle 2, back 2, front 2).  It's pretty gruelling - but I'm hoping that it provides the same stimulus as a full day's bouldering, to make up for my "lost" weekends.

Jesus. 1.5 hours on a fingerboard sounds so so dull. I was just going off the 6 sets of 6 reps model.

I find the standard Beastmaker app of 2 lots of 6 sets of 6 reps) giving effectively 12 sets is a good amount of volume for me. Maybe double yours Will?

[thekettle]

1) Exploit the collective knowledge of the helpful UKBers

Are you aware how this works in reality?

8B boulderer says try some Repeaters. Simon sticks to max hangs
8b onsighter says go to lots of places and try lots of problems, lots of moves, definitely don't keep going on Ben's. Simon tries it for a while then decides to keep going on Ben's
9a climber suggests Simon is strong enough for the Oak but should work AnCap. Simon tries a long boulder problem that he can only do in short sections and calls it endurance training.
Highly experienced redpointer suggests Simon take a top down approach to the Oak working longer and longer links. Simon continues ground-up.

So harsh! 

I see it as a negotiation between the 'ultimate perfect solution' and Sharks current routine. There's only so far most of us are prepared to shuffle away from our habits, so it's always a compromise for anyone but the few obsessively psyched.

[Will Hunt]

shuffle away

Wasn't that the eatswood phase?

I think Power Club was incepted as a way for Shark to get advice for the Oak? This is edition 527 

[205Chris]

I think Power Club was incepted as a way for Shark to get advice for the Oak? This is edition 527 

Maybe he's taking the Thomas Edison approach? "I haven't failed -- I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work."

[Nibile]

Jesus. 1.5 hours on a fingerboard sounds so so dull.

Yeah. It's much better to spend the lockdown on morpho reachy board problems...