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The self-isolation training thread (Read 3329 times)

duncan

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The self-isolation training thread
March 17, 2020, 12:30:20 pm
Assuming access to a fingerboard, pull-up bar, basic free weights, and gymnastic rings, but without the luxury of a home board.

My personal goals are in the long single-pitch trad. or sport, so very interested in longer duration endurance ideas. You can assume an almost pathologically high boredom threshold, there may be plenty of time to do this. Max hangs for finger strength are a given but all other ideas welcome. 




Coops_13

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#1 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 17, 2020, 01:53:06 pm
I'm stuck with a portable fingerboard only but nowhere to hang it. Gonna have to find some heavy things / sneak out to a nearby tree. Luckily I have lots of rock nearby - current advice seems to be you can still go out but if the crag's busy, move on...

Nutty

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#2 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 17, 2020, 02:07:20 pm
I posted the below in the Epidemiology Club thread:

Quote
I've done aerocap before with feet on a step placed behind a door-frame mounted finger board. Had a BM2000 with a medium campus rung below it and made hand movements between the campus rung, deep slots and 20 degree sloper. Modify difficulty by moving the step forward/back and having either both feet or swapping between feet on the step. Have a podcast or playlist ready to stave off tedium.

Similar idea to foot-on campus.

csl

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#3 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 17, 2020, 02:57:02 pm
Assuming access to a fingerboard, pull-up bar, basic free weights, and gymnastic rings, but without the luxury of a home board.

My personal goals are in the long single-pitch trad. or sport, so very interested in longer duration endurance ideas. You can assume an almost pathologically high boredom threshold, there may be plenty of time to do this. Max hangs for finger strength are a given but all other ideas welcome.

The crimpd app (crimpd.com) includes fingerboard based workouts for AeroCap and AnCap by reducing the weight you are hanging and doing repeaters.

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#4 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 17, 2020, 03:11:47 pm
What Nutty said.

I sometimes do sessions with around 2 or 2 1/2 mins hangs (with one foot on a chair and moving a hand to a different hold every 10 seconds), with the same amount of rest between sets.

I aim for a level of intensity that by the end of a set my fingers are uncurling and my forearms totalling pumped.  After 6 sets Iím wasted.

cheque

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#5 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 18, 2020, 08:29:13 pm
My other halfís just assembled what Iím amazed to learn is not the cheapest exercise bike available in our living room. :lol:

Iíve been rueing the money I spent on weights years ago ever since I joined the gym to start my rehab but it looks like theyíll come in handy now (the gym is actually still open but fuck that) going to be the strongest road biker out there once we emerge from the other side of this.  ;)

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#6 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 18, 2020, 09:14:26 pm
Duncan - I have a mate who whilst offshore did the sort of almost incomprehensibly boring foot-on campus-rung hangs/shuffling that Nutty and Holmsey recommend and it definitely seemed to work for him. Pathological boredom threshold very useful, also good spiritual preparation for The Oak.

jwi

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#7 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 18, 2020, 09:19:03 pm
As you are probably aware of, here in France we are in almost full lock-down. We are still allowed to do a bit of exercise, but only individually and only in the direct vicinity of the home. I am planning to run 2-3 times a week as long as that is allowed.

I do not plan to keep my strength-endurance levels up in the fingers, as the strength endurance is the quickest to regain, and also because it is somewhat concurrent with strength. I plan to keep some level of endurance by doing about one session of stamina training on our oversized fingerboard (feet on, behind the board) per week. I'm thinking around 60 min of brutal boredom with a podcast once a week... This will also be somewhat concurrent with strength (my body just loves endurance) so I am still a bit undecided... I haven't had the first endurance session yet...

I will try to see the 2 weeks (yeah, right, everyone realise that we are talking minimum 20 days...) as an opportunity to improve finger-strength and regain a bit of pull strength that I lost to shoulder injuries last year. I have planned out 4 weeks of sessions as I assume that we will be in isolation for about 4 weeks, but there is a possibility to abort after 2 weeks if miracles happen.

As there is no pesky climbing to interrupt my hangboard sessions I will train all major grip types: drag, half crimp, full crimp and pinches. I will also do some auxiliary training for my weak right ring finger. For the overall structure my plan is to use variation of load/volume on a weekly basis with

1st weekm (medium week): long hangs, starting at 40s then two sessions of 20s hangs. (medium week)

2nd week (hard week) medium long hangs at around 12s down to 9s. 4 sessions. TUL from 50s to 120s per grip type

3rd week (deload) mostly medium hangs 10s or so but also a session of 7s hangs. TUL around 60s but with a decent margin to task-failure.

4th week (towards 5s max test). Peak preparation 3 sessions towards new PB on 5s hangs in all three positions.

The pull exercises will follow the same linear periodisation starting at 18-25 reps  down to 1 rep max at the end of week 4. For the rest (core, legs, push, shoulders) I will do random stuff.

Stretching at least 3 times a week.

moose

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#8 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 18, 2020, 10:35:23 pm
I am currently in home-working, lock-down mode (except when site visits come in) - with constant online surveillance and "hard" time-sheets. 

So, I'm interested in non / minimal equipment based body-weight workouts I can do during 30 min - 1 hr lunch breaks in my living room.  Interested in all over conditioning, especially core - I reckon I can best address climbing specifics with finger boarding (and perhaps trying to remember where my pull up bar is). 

 Any suggestions for routines? I realise this might have been asked previously, but I suspect any advice provided will be appreciated by a fair few fellow isolatees. 

HarryBD

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#9 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 18, 2020, 11:09:33 pm
I have a bodyweight training ebook if you're interested - can share as a google drive link but don't want to post publicly - PM me if you're interested (goes for anyone else too)

TobyD

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#10 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 18, 2020, 11:10:59 pm
 
So, I'm interested in non / minimal equipment based body-weight workouts I can do during 30 min - 1 hr lunch breaks in my living room.  Interested in all over conditioning, especially core - I reckon I can best address climbing specifics with finger boarding (and perhaps trying to remember where my pull up bar is). 

 Any suggestions for routines? I realise this might have been asked previously, but I suspect any advice provided will be appreciated by a fair few fellow isolatees. 

The crimpd app has some decent floor core exercises - anything like planks, side planks, supine leg raises, crunches, hanging leg raises. Plenty more if you have a TRX or rings, or can improvise something similar

teestub

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#11 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 08:53:08 am
Duncan, if you have a fingerboard with jugs or the board is next to the pull up bar, you could do low intensity sets of repeaters with rest intervals on the jugs or bar (feet on a stool or lots of weight off with a pulley) to simulate resting on jugs?

Was thinking some pull up sets in an EMOM format (maybe with assistance if required to do higher reps) might be a good replicator if shoulder fatigue of longer routes too?

For floor core I like this series from BD, bit different from the usual.



Was going to write a longer post about fingerboarding options but I guess a lot of people will just use the lettuce app these days.

TobyD

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#12 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 08:55:04 am
I don't have a finger board only a bar and rock rings, can anyone suggest any decent protocols on them apart from obvious pull ups?

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#13 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 09:04:10 am
I'm working on my boredom threshold - did my first hour of TFNA Zone 2 box step-ups yesterday. Surprisingly survivable if you get your youtube queue properly set up in advance.

(And some max hangs)

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#14 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 09:10:58 am
constant online surveillance and "hard" time-sheets. 


If I had this I would have been fired long ago!

teestub

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#15 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 09:27:19 am
I don't have a finger board only a bar and rock rings, can anyone suggest any decent protocols on them apart from obvious pull ups?

Toby not used rock rings for years but remember the middle edge being quite a useful size? I donít see why you couldnít use them for regular fingerboarding or use one with a sling, band or pulley on the bar for assisted one arm work?

jwi

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#16 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 10:02:18 am
and if you do not have a pulley, throwing a bit of rope above the bar and tying a counterweigh (a bag of filled bottles e.g.) is good enough.

If you need equipment, can't you just order it online? Home delivery still works in France at least. They call, dump the packet on the ground, and stay 2m+ away from the customer. No signing, just verbal confirmation of the name.
« Last Edit: March 19, 2020, 10:09:22 am by jwi »

Murph

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#17 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 10:36:44 am
....you can still go out but if the crag's busy, move on...
Never seen trackside busier than it was on tuesday, but schools haven't even closed yet so we are still a ways off of a proper policy let alone enforcement.

Useful thread this. Think I'm going to have to excavate the fingerboard and get stuck in.

SA Chris

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#18 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 11:04:49 am
constant online surveillance and "hard" time-sheets. 


If I had this I would have been fired long ago!

Likewise

duncan

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#19 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 09:20:17 pm
Thanks everyone.

Looks like foot-on fingerboarding is the way forward. Once a week will be plenty, my main focus is still strength as this is my biggest limitation.

Not much will happen this week, I'm 6 days into a chest infection of some kind. No significant temperature spike so I don't think it's that kind but it's wiped me out. Home working whilst attempting to meaningfully occupy 10 year old who also had the bug doesn't help! 

I'll make some suggestions about general leg, trunk and shoulder conditioning when I've more energy.

tomtom

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#20 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 09:28:25 pm
constant online surveillance and "hard" time-sheets. 


If I had this I would have been fired long ago!

Moose - have you seen those devices designed to fool those systems? You can get a usb thingy that moves your mouse pointer around the screen every few seconds.

moose

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#21 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 19, 2020, 10:35:30 pm
I perhaps over-egged the degree of surveillance - essentially everyone can see when you are on the company VPN and contact you via an in-house messaging app but (as far as I know) activity is not continuously monitored.  But, you do have to account for your time on a rigoourous timesheet.   There are only so many hours that can be writen off as non-renumerative "admin" and if you do far less invoiceable work than expected, it is be noticed.  But there's nothing to stop you from doing "proper" work at your convenience (during the evening / a few spare hours over the weekend) and making up for it.

Will Hunt

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#22 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 24, 2020, 08:19:05 pm
Well, I did the BD Beta core workout. After the first exercise I thought, "oh, this piss". Then the next exercises came along. I'm now an empty shell.

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#23 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 25, 2020, 09:52:13 am
Assuming access to a fingerboard, pull-up bar, basic free weights, and gymnastic rings, but without the luxury of a home board.

My personal goals are in the long single-pitch trad. or sport, so very interested in longer duration endurance ideas. You can assume an almost pathologically high boredom threshold, there may be plenty of time to do this. Max hangs for finger strength are a given but all other ideas welcome.

Duncan - was interesting listening to a spiel by Steve Bechtel with regard to circumstances facing all of us from 9.13

https://www.facebook.com/climbstrong/videos/233504881171865/

A key point is that instead of trying to inadequately trying to hang on to our general all round climbing performance and endurance that a better response is to instead focus and prioritise on boosting performance of a few narrower things that we have perhaps put off for years.


tomtom

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#24 Re: The self-isolation training thread
March 25, 2020, 09:57:45 am
Indeed - my aims are to work on a pathetic back two (so much of my finger strength is front two) - to be able to lock off - and maybe some one arm stuff.

Iíll hope my existing strengths will come back fairly quickly - but can use the tedium and monotony of a fingerboard to work on weaknesses.

 

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