I've done aerocap before with feet on a step placed behind a door-frame mounted finger board. Had a BM2000 with a medium campus rung below it and made hand movements between the campus rung, deep slots and 20 degree sloper. Modify difficulty by moving the step forward/back and having either both feet or swapping between feet on the step. Have a podcast or playlist ready to stave off tedium.
Assuming access to a fingerboard, pull-up bar, basic free weights, and gymnastic rings, but without the luxury of a home board. My personal goals are in the long single-pitch trad. or sport, so very interested in longer duration endurance ideas. You can assume an almost pathologically high boredom threshold, there may be plenty of time to do this. Max hangs for finger strength are a given but all other ideas welcome.
So, I'm interested in non / minimal equipment based body-weight workouts I can do during 30 min - 1 hr lunch breaks in my living room. Interested in all over conditioning, especially core - I reckon I can best address climbing specifics with finger boarding (and perhaps trying to remember where my pull up bar is). Any suggestions for routines? I realise this might have been asked previously, but I suspect any advice provided will be appreciated by a fair few fellow isolatees.
constant online surveillance and "hard" time-sheets.
I don't have a finger board only a bar and rock rings, can anyone suggest any decent protocols on them apart from obvious pull ups?
....you can still go out but if the crag's busy, move on...
Quote from: moose on March 18, 2020, 10:35:23 pm constant online surveillance and "hard" time-sheets. If I had this I would have been fired long ago!
Iíll hope my existing strengths will come back fairly quickly - but can use the tedium and monotony of a fingerboard to work on weaknesses.
Duncan - was interesting listening to a spiel by Steve Bechtel with regard to circumstances facing all of us from 9.13 https://www.facebook.com/climbstrong/videos/233504881171865/A key point is that instead of trying to inadequately trying to hang on to our general all round climbing performance and endurance that a better response is to instead focus and prioritise on boosting performance of a few narrower things that we have perhaps put off for years.
While doing the core exercises vid yesterday it became very obvious that I'm quite inflexible. The most apparent thing was leg inflexibility, so I started using the rest periods between exercises to do some very simple "try and touch your toes" stretches, but wondered if there was any easy-to-digest resource out there that could recommend some useful stretches for climbers?
Well, I did the BD Beta core workout. After the first exercise I thought, "oh, this piss". Then the next exercises came along. I'm now an empty shell.
I've strung up some old rock rungs in a tree outside to get bit of fresh air and a change from beastmakeringAnything i do on them I seem to naturally turn them back to back, both hangs and pull ups. Should i try to resist this, or doesn't it matter? Be better moving them further apart?
I think you finding it easier than me is probably more related to the fact that I NEVER do any isolated exercises of any description, EVER. So what little core strength I have is what I have accrued by simply going climbing. Likewise finger-strength etc.I did 30 mins on the fingerboard yesterday and, it might be that I wasn't warmed up, or it might be that I wasn't fully trying hard enough, but fucking hell. Using the big deep two finger pockets with middle two and no added weight was virtually a max hang. Using the two smallest crimp rungs (BM2K) was also virtually a max hang! Soooooooo weak!
Bottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimp
Quote from: abarro81 on March 27, 2020, 11:04:43 amBottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimpThat's what I was doing
Full crimp on a fingerboard?
Dont forget to keep those thumbs across the palms on the half crimps!
Session #1https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K7uRmDAqI/?igshid=k3sairmsqu3jStay psyched, everyone.
Quote from: tomtom on March 27, 2020, 11:38:39 amDont forget to keep those thumbs across the palms on the half crimps!Is that important? I've always half crimped with thumbs just sort of pointing upwards.
Quote from: Will Hunt on March 24, 2020, 08:19:05 pmWell, I did the BD Beta core workout. After the first exercise I thought, "oh, this piss". Then the next exercises came along. I'm now an empty shell.Interesting, did it last night and found it pretty steady, sort of like a yoga/core crossover. Clearly more reps required. Girlfriend suggested men might find it harder than women as there is loads of hip/pelvic stuff in there which women might be better at/train more.Still worth doing for those that are keen.
Quote from: Will Hunt on March 25, 2020, 09:05:04 pmSession #1https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K7uRmDAqI/?igshid=k3sairmsqu3jStay psyched, everyone.What are the dimensions of your board Will? And what hold spacing do you have between T nuts?
Ben and Nathaniel always delighted in telling me how shit my board is, but I've definitely seen shitter! They have at times come into the garage and felt the holds and declared it pointless as it would be impossible to set hard problems on it. A mediocre board is better than no board!
A mediocre board is better than no board!
Just be careful with this stuff of form if you are starting afresh and going at it too hard too soon. Rounding of torso can cause lower back / SI Joint issues. Make sure chest is out shoulders are back and all core muscles engaged.
Quote from: Will Hunt on March 27, 2020, 01:53:45 pmA mediocre board is better than no board!100% I bet a lot of people are currently reviewing their home training options and potential for a move.
Quote from: Will Hunt on March 27, 2020, 01:53:45 pmA mediocre board is better than no board!100% I bet a lot of people are currently reviewing their home training options and potential for a move. Turned out Dave Mac was right all those years ago!
Bad Behavior has blocked 2160 access attempts in the last 7 days.