Iíll hope my existing strengths will come back fairly quickly - but can use the tedium and monotony of a fingerboard to work on weaknesses.
Duncan - was interesting listening to a spiel by Steve Bechtel with regard to circumstances facing all of us from 9.13 https://www.facebook.com/climbstrong/videos/233504881171865/A key point is that instead of trying to inadequately trying to hang on to our general all round climbing performance and endurance that a better response is to instead focus and prioritise on boosting performance of a few narrower things that we have perhaps put off for years.
While doing the core exercises vid yesterday it became very obvious that I'm quite inflexible. The most apparent thing was leg inflexibility, so I started using the rest periods between exercises to do some very simple "try and touch your toes" stretches, but wondered if there was any easy-to-digest resource out there that could recommend some useful stretches for climbers?
Well, I did the BD Beta core workout. After the first exercise I thought, "oh, this piss". Then the next exercises came along. I'm now an empty shell.
I've strung up some old rock rungs in a tree outside to get bit of fresh air and a change from beastmakeringAnything i do on them I seem to naturally turn them back to back, both hangs and pull ups. Should i try to resist this, or doesn't it matter? Be better moving them further apart?
I think you finding it easier than me is probably more related to the fact that I NEVER do any isolated exercises of any description, EVER. So what little core strength I have is what I have accrued by simply going climbing. Likewise finger-strength etc.I did 30 mins on the fingerboard yesterday and, it might be that I wasn't warmed up, or it might be that I wasn't fully trying hard enough, but fucking hell. Using the big deep two finger pockets with middle two and no added weight was virtually a max hang. Using the two smallest crimp rungs (BM2K) was also virtually a max hang! Soooooooo weak!
Bottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimp
Quote from: abarro81 on March 27, 2020, 11:04:43 amBottom outside edges are also a load easier as a half crimp than a full crimpThat's what I was doing
Full crimp on a fingerboard?
Dont forget to keep those thumbs across the palms on the half crimps!
Session #1https://www.instagram.com/p/B-K7uRmDAqI/?igshid=k3sairmsqu3jStay psyched, everyone.
Quote from: tomtom on March 27, 2020, 11:38:39 amDont forget to keep those thumbs across the palms on the half crimps!Is that important? I've always half crimped with thumbs just sort of pointing upwards.
Quote from: Will Hunt on March 24, 2020, 08:19:05 pmWell, I did the BD Beta core workout. After the first exercise I thought, "oh, this piss". Then the next exercises came along. I'm now an empty shell.Interesting, did it last night and found it pretty steady, sort of like a yoga/core crossover. Clearly more reps required. Girlfriend suggested men might find it harder than women as there is loads of hip/pelvic stuff in there which women might be better at/train more.Still worth doing for those that are keen.
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