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recommend a Yorkshire 7C (Read 1101 times)

Liamhutch89

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recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 10, 2019, 08:38:08 pm
I've set this as a goal this winter.

I've been gym climbing around 4 years or so and had only done a bit of sport climbing outdoors until this summer when I got into bouldering (wrong time I know).

In the last few months i've done around a dozen boulders from 7A+-7B

Thuggy is probably my style - Crusis 7B went quickly today in a session, juju club is ready to go at 7B+

requirements:

  • It has to be a proper one - soft/moderate is ok as long as it's actually 7C
    Preferably somewhere lamping is allowed (there appear to be a few good candidates at Almscliffe which are out for this reason)
    acceptable landing for solo night sessions
    strengths - shouldery moves, tensiony moves, locking off, upper body and leg strength
    weaknesses - finger strength (i'm 85kg+), slabs
    preferably a good line - ideally not a traverse or eliminate


Bradders

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#1 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 10, 2019, 09:14:27 pm
At Almscliff, but surely everyone's first 7C The Keel, fits the bill?

Otherwise:
- The Drey, Caley
- The Flakes Sit, Earl
- Hunter's Roof, Hunter's Stones (probably THE quintessential Yorkshire thug fest at 7C)

bigironhorse

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#2 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 10, 2019, 09:22:50 pm
Jess's Roof at Almscliff probably fits style wise. Not great on the other criteria though: no lamp sessions and landing is a bit weird.

dunnyg

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#3 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 10, 2019, 09:23:37 pm
Are there any viddys for the sit start to the flakes?

Underhand extension (again cliff, sorry!)

Pedestal arete Caley maybe?

Looking forward to other suggestions!

Bradders

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dunnyg

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#5 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 10, 2019, 09:49:53 pm
Cheers. Guessing it is just smeary feet, slap out left for arete(?) heel on, then into the stand. Hard to tell from there. Good effort though!

gollum

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#6 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 10, 2019, 10:12:33 pm
Superset on the Calf (unless itís been downgrading)

Will Hunt

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#7 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 10, 2019, 10:30:57 pm
The Keel. The only thing that doesn't fit your criteria is the inability to lamp. It's everyone's first one for a good reason: bottom of the grade and practically permadry.

Hunters Roof you need a spotter and it's sharp, nasty rock. Jess' Roof will suit a board climber very well, not so much someone with puny fingers. And it's a pain to get on with the awkward location and landing.

Will Hunt

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#8 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 10, 2019, 10:36:25 pm
I've not done many 7Cs in Yorkshire but I'd go with Heaven in your Hands. In a fair and just world it might not stay 7C forever and could go down to 7B+ or even 7B (using the best beta)  :shrug:
It's not terribly fingery, it's a bit tension and there's no really hard moves on it. Most importantly it's one of the best problems in Yorkshire (though a lamp session there might result in getting shot).

tim palmer

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#9 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 10, 2019, 11:04:05 pm
Heaven in your hands crossed my mind but wouldn't be good for lamping and quite tech. 

Hunters roof is a good shout. 

 I also thought red baron roof might be a good one to try, good line, big holds and no harder than 7c if you are reasonably tall.

Edit: and do able with lamps

teestub

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#10 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 01:34:34 am
Just to confirm no lamping at Brandrith.  Love that Will recommended Heaven and then instantly downgraded it!

Iíve had a look at the ones Iíve done in Yorkshire, and 7c seems to be a grade where finger strength comes to the fore, as such besides Hunterís Roof (as already mentioned), I donít really have any recommendations that tie into your criteria.


sxrxg

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#11 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 07:36:52 am
Ian's Roof at Woodhouse might fit the bill. 7c roof/lip traverse, good landing, physical, can use lamps.

Plattsy

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#12 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 07:54:12 am
The Terrace ;)

saltbeef

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#13 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 09:20:46 am
Red Baron roof?

dunnyg

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#14 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 09:44:41 am
Jack's arete at woodhouse too. Not sure what the grade has settled at, but it is a burley lowball on slopers. Not a king line, but worth a do maybe

Bradders

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#15 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 09:51:35 am
Red Baron roof?

Was wondering when this would start getting the downgrade treatment. Does fit the bill in terms of being easily workable, lampable, powerful, good holds and whatnot  but harder than Hunter's, Keel, Drey, etc.

You don't need a spotter for Hunter's, just a couple of good size pads is fine.

Other thoughts (ignoring grades now, lots in this style easier than 7C but all quality problems);
- Kojak, Deer Gallows
- To Me To You, Brimham Out
- Losing My Edge, Crow Crag (easier and harder sequences available)
- Mike's Problem, Brimham
- Not for Weasels, Mytholm
- Houdini & Ian's Roof, Woodhouse
- Ringpiece, Ilkley
- Ripple Effect, Brimham (not quality, but everyone else's first 7C)
- Ian's Trav, Brimham (much harder than Ripple Effect)
- Jason's Roof, Crookrise
- Pumped Up Plastic People, Ash Head
- Sky Diamond, Eavestone


dunnyg

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#16 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 09:55:48 am
Not done it, but I thought ring piece was more like 7b+?

Bradders

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#17 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 10:03:45 am
Not done it, but I thought ring piece was more like 7b+?

ignoring grades now, lots in this style easier than 7C but all quality problems

dunnyg

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#18 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 11:06:31 am
soz

Steve R

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#19 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 11:34:06 am
Pounce at Brimham?  don't know if you're allowed lights at brimham though? and might be down to 7A/+ on the Hunt scale these days...

36chambers

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#20 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 12:49:02 pm
As others have said, The Drey seems like a good candidate (apart from not being much of a line). And the bonus is that you don't need a spot or many pads. Although if you want the UKC 7C tick you'll have to pester the Caley moderator, as it's currently down as 7B+ despite what the comments and votes suggest.

Superset on the Calf (unless itís been downgrading)

I think this is regarded as 7B+ these days.

Pounce at Brimham?  don't know if you're allowed lights at brimham though? and might be down to 7A/+ on the Hunt scale these days...

I have heard people suggest 7B (or 7B+ at a push) for this one.

Red Baron roof?
Was wondering when this would start getting the downgrade treatment.

Does this mean you agree? ;)

Liamhutch89

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#21 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 01:34:28 pm
Hunter's roof and red baron roof both look good lines and not too far to drive.

The Drey not quite as impressive, but it fits the bill and Caley is my regular so i'll check it out too.

I came across a video of under a full moon at the Satellite boulder. Anyone reckon that could be a good shout? looks shouldery. maybe fingery too but they're getting there slowly (80kg bodyweight +2kg last year to 85kg+30kg last week on a good edge as per lattice test).

Bradders

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#22 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 01:51:43 pm
Does this mean you agree? ;)

Ha  :devangel:

No, it's just bottom end so an obvious target. Mainly I was just surprised Will didn't propose it.

I came across a video of under a full moon at the Satellite boulder. Anyone reckon that could be a good shout? looks shouldery. maybe fingery too but they're getting there slowly (80kg bodyweight +2kg last year to 85kg+30kg last week on a good edge as per lattice test).

Incredible boulder. Very fingery though. If you're a board monster you'd probably do well, although your main issue will be finding it dry.

Will Hunt

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#23 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 02:29:47 pm
I am not really qualified to comment on the grade of RBR as it's the only thing of that type and difficulty which I've done, so I've nothing to compare it with. It's obviously harder than the Keel, but that's not saying much. I haven't really done any proper 7C roof climbs to compare it against. It's particularly difficult to offer an opinion on because I know that I climbed it better and more efficiently than anybody in any video that I've seen of it but I still had to try very hard at the end to get the arete matched. So on the one hand it was "easy" because I cheated by having the best possible sequence; on the other hand I still had to try my absolute hardest and I nearly dropped it at the end. But then, I am notoriously shit at rock climbing and very very weak, so who knows? :shrug:

Basically there are no hard moves on it if you climb it really well, but you can climb it terribly and still get up it you're strong and have a bit of power endurance.

But to turn it into something that has not hard moves, you need to spend the time getting everything really efficient and make sure you're hitting all the holds right (which took something like 4/5/6 sessions for me). Is this what they call "projecting"? Does that mean something can still be hard even if by the time you do it it's "easy"? It's all very confusing. We should stop because down this road lies H grades.
« Last Edit: November 11, 2019, 02:39:38 pm by Will Hunt »

Rob F

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#24 Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
November 11, 2019, 08:48:14 pm
What did we all agree was the font 7c grade of the small rungs of the Depot campus board???

1-6???