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The Joker bloc (Read 9160 times)

Bradders

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#75 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 07:29:02 am
The most compelling argument for putting it back is that acts of vandalism should not go uncorrected or they become legitimised and more likely in future.

Agree with that completely.

How do all the folk wanting to move it back feel about Thick End of the Wedge at Burbage?

I'm not familiar, what's the situation with this one out of interest?

Johnny Brown

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#76 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 07:35:47 am
Is it confirmed that it was intentionally moved?

Yes. The weather suggestion is absolutely ridiculous.

teestub

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#77 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 08:58:35 am
You going to pin it with a few epoxied rods to make sure no one gets the same idea again?

Bonjoy

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#78 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 09:12:41 am
How do all the folk wanting to move it back feel about Thick End of the Wedge at Burbage?

I'm not familiar, what's the situation with this one out of interest?
I moved a block from underneath an existing E4/7a at Burbage S so a low start could be climbed.

So itís analogous in that a block was moved, and an easier climb based on a higher pull on position was rendered defunct/arbitrary.

There is a thread elsewhere arguing the rights and wrongs of it. The obvious dissimilarities to the Joker/Ace are that it facilitated a high quality new climb and that it increased the utility of the line (i.e. it vastly increased the number of people climbing/trying it and improved the landing) rather than reducing it.
In my highly biased opinion the removal of peak gritís most popular 8a would not be fixed by the removal of itís second most popular.

SamT

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#79 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 10:09:17 am
You going to pin it with a few epoxied rods to make sure no one gets the same idea again?

I thought exactly the same.  I might be on for coming out tomorrow if more hands are needed.

northern yob

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#80 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 10:19:44 am
Agreed the weather scenario is insane, I was kinda thinking itís local youths,possibly with no agenda, or some misguided idiot who thinks they were doing a service to the landing. It hadnít crossed my mind someone had done it from a deliberate elitist point of view..... which is a very different thing definitely deserving of broken legs.....

SamT

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#81 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 11:33:53 am
[2p]
Re the ethics of this.  It makes my piss boil when shit like this happens, stuff gets trundled/chipped/graffiti'd/bust.
A bunch of cockends, presumably (and hopefully in some respects) totally ignorant to the significance/history behind something like this, and think its perfectly acceptable to drag/damage/scar shit out of the way, without seemingly consulting anyone about it. It always looks a mess, takes nigh on decades to weather, and even then, it never  looks natural, you can always tell that mother nature didn't arrange the rock like that.

I'm never, ever going to be strong enough for the joker, but I dont care and that's not the point.

As a kid in the 80's, my first ever climbing trip was to the plantation and we bouldered on the pebble, even then, as a crappy Vdiff leader, I could see that bit of rock and think that's an obvious problem.  I was a regular at the plantation for my early years and it was clear that one day, it would go. Eventually, Jerry solved it, and then extended it.

Putting the boulder back in place, sends out a firm message that rocking up and fucking about with stuff, without any consensus wont be tolerated. Just in the same way that chipped holds, where possible, should be sympathetically filled in.

I think pinning it is not actually a bad idea, just in case said bell end comes back again and moves it again, causing more damage scarring etc.
[/2p]

Funny how nobody is ever about though when it happens giving me the sense that who ever did this knew it was a bit 'naughty'


Re moving it back.. seating it back into the 'socket' from which it came might be a bit tricky, since that 'socket' might well have changed shape now, i.e. had loads of earth washed in/out from yesterdays biblical rain storm.


Oh and another thing, just looked and there is nothing on the other channel about this at all.  I'd have thought it would warrant at least a news snippet, even if its just to get the message out to the masses that this kind of thing happens, and is generally frowned upon.

Johnny Brown

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#82 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 12:27:08 pm
Quote
I was kinda thinking itís local youths,possibly with no agenda, or some misguided idiot who thinks they were doing a service to the landing. It hadnít crossed my mind someone had done it from a deliberate elitist point of view.....

Local youths aren't really a problem at Stanage, it's not Shipley Glen.

Various elite boulderers have talked about moving this boulder for years - I've heard that Ben Moon and Tyler actually had a go at moving it once. I think it's a good illustration why such things should be discussed, whatever their motivations were I'm not sure they would have borne scrutiny.

Quote
Re moving it back.. seating it back into the 'socket' from which it came might be a bit tricky, since that 'socket' might well have changed shape now, i.e. had loads of earth washed in/out from yesterdays biblical rain storm

I don't think that will be a problem, the boulder is very big and hasn't moved far - it still mostly covers its old footprint. The main thing is it has rotated so the old high point is now pointing downhill.

I'm not in favour of pinning it for the same reason I'm against moving it - I want my climbing environments as natural as possible.

gme

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#83 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 12:58:50 pm
If its put back shall we also not build an artificial tree for the one that went missing under bodymachine.

Paul B

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#84 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 03:09:51 pm
Various elite boulderers have talked about moving this boulder for years - I've heard that Ben Moon and Tyler actually had a go at moving it once. I think it's a good illustration why such things should be discussed, whatever their motivations were I'm not sure they would have borne scrutiny.

As stated previously in this thread, I was at Stanage during a night session (perhaps nearing a decade ago?) where this boulder was pushed just to the point of tipping by the weak legs of a few people before they were talked out of it. At that time it was definitely an elitist thing rather than an attempt to improve the landing.

mrjonathanr

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#85 Re: The Joker bloc
December 11, 2019, 05:56:42 pm
If its put back shall we also not build an artificial tree for the one that went missing under bodymachine.

With an specially sharpened point to fully recreate the terror of the first moves?

Bonjoy

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#86 Re: The Joker bloc
December 12, 2019, 04:35:04 pm
We put it back

cowboyhat

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#87 Re: The Joker bloc
December 12, 2019, 04:39:11 pm
Great

Does it wobble? what went down?

cofe

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#88 Re: The Joker bloc
December 12, 2019, 04:49:39 pm

Bonjoy

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#89 Re: The Joker bloc
December 12, 2019, 04:58:19 pm
No wobble, solid as the proverbial.
Winched it back in to rough position then tweaked the exact details with the help of assentionists and old photos.

teestub

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#90 Re: The Joker bloc
December 12, 2019, 05:49:26 pm
Big ups.

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#91 Re: The Joker bloc
December 12, 2019, 05:50:16 pm
Good winching sir.

nik at work

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#92 Re: The Joker bloc
December 12, 2019, 06:36:06 pm
Nice one  :2thumbsup:

haydn jones

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#93 Re: The Joker bloc
December 12, 2019, 09:47:03 pm
That's amazing news well done! I must admit I didn't think it would be possible but maybe I'm remembering the block being bigger than it is. Lots of wad points going your way.

Jacqusie

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#94 Re: The Joker bloc
December 14, 2019, 11:46:25 am
We put it back


Good effort chaps, that problem is part of Plantation history and despite the endevours of nefarious forces, it's the Joker again, rather battered and bruised, but still standing

 

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