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the shizzle => bouldering => Topic started by: Liamhutch89 on November 10, 2019, 08:38:08 pm

Title: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 10, 2019, 08:38:08 pm
I've set this as a goal this winter.

I've been gym climbing around 4 years or so and had only done a bit of sport climbing outdoors until this summer when I got into bouldering (wrong time I know).

In the last few months i've done around a dozen boulders from 7A+-7B

Thuggy is probably my style - Crusis 7B went quickly today in a session, juju club is ready to go at 7B+

requirements:


Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Bradders on November 10, 2019, 09:14:27 pm
At Almscliff, but surely everyone's first 7C The Keel, fits the bill?

Otherwise:
- The Drey, Caley
- The Flakes Sit, Earl
- Hunter's Roof, Hunter's Stones (probably THE quintessential Yorkshire thug fest at 7C)
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: bigironhorse on November 10, 2019, 09:22:50 pm
Jess's Roof at Almscliff probably fits style wise. Not great on the other criteria though: no lamp sessions and landing is a bit weird.
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: dunnyg on November 10, 2019, 09:23:37 pm
Are there any viddys for the sit start to the flakes?

Underhand extension (again cliff, sorry!)

Pedestal arete Caley maybe?

Looking forward to other suggestions!
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Bradders on November 10, 2019, 09:26:54 pm
Are there any viddys for the sit start to the flakes?

https://www.instagram.com/p/BtMWmxRhpSf/?igshid=pyy24c7porc6
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: dunnyg on November 10, 2019, 09:49:53 pm
Cheers. Guessing it is just smeary feet, slap out left for arete(?) heel on, then into the stand. Hard to tell from there. Good effort though!
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: gollum on November 10, 2019, 10:12:33 pm
Superset on the Calf (unless itís been downgrading)
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Will Hunt on November 10, 2019, 10:30:57 pm
The Keel. The only thing that doesn't fit your criteria is the inability to lamp. It's everyone's first one for a good reason: bottom of the grade and practically permadry.

Hunters Roof you need a spotter and it's sharp, nasty rock. Jess' Roof will suit a board climber very well, not so much someone with puny fingers. And it's a pain to get on with the awkward location and landing.
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Will Hunt on November 10, 2019, 10:36:25 pm
I've not done many 7Cs in Yorkshire but I'd go with Heaven in your Hands. In a fair and just world it might not stay 7C forever and could go down to 7B+ or even 7B (using the best beta)  :shrug:
It's not terribly fingery, it's a bit tension and there's no really hard moves on it. Most importantly it's one of the best problems in Yorkshire (though a lamp session there might result in getting shot).
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: tim palmer on November 10, 2019, 11:04:05 pm
Heaven in your hands crossed my mind but wouldn't be good for lamping and quite tech. 

Hunters roof is a good shout. 

 I also thought red baron roof might be a good one to try, good line, big holds and no harder than 7c if you are reasonably tall.

Edit: and do able with lamps
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: teestub on November 11, 2019, 01:34:34 am
Just to confirm no lamping at Brandrith.  Love that Will recommended Heaven and then instantly downgraded it!

Iíve had a look at the ones Iíve done in Yorkshire, and 7c seems to be a grade where finger strength comes to the fore, as such besides Hunterís Roof (as already mentioned), I donít really have any recommendations that tie into your criteria.

Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: sxrxg on November 11, 2019, 07:36:52 am
Ian's Roof at Woodhouse might fit the bill. 7c roof/lip traverse, good landing, physical, can use lamps.
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Plattsy on November 11, 2019, 07:54:12 am
The Terrace ;)
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: saltbeef on November 11, 2019, 09:20:46 am
Red Baron roof?
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: dunnyg on November 11, 2019, 09:44:41 am
Jack's arete at woodhouse too. Not sure what the grade has settled at, but it is a burley lowball on slopers. Not a king line, but worth a do maybe
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Bradders on November 11, 2019, 09:51:35 am
Red Baron roof?

Was wondering when this would start getting the downgrade treatment. Does fit the bill in terms of being easily workable, lampable, powerful, good holds and whatnot  but harder than Hunter's, Keel, Drey, etc.

You don't need a spotter for Hunter's, just a couple of good size pads is fine.

Other thoughts (ignoring grades now, lots in this style easier than 7C but all quality problems);
- Kojak, Deer Gallows
- To Me To You, Brimham Out
- Losing My Edge, Crow Crag (easier and harder sequences available)
- Mike's Problem, Brimham
- Not for Weasels, Mytholm
- Houdini & Ian's Roof, Woodhouse
- Ringpiece, Ilkley
- Ripple Effect, Brimham (not quality, but everyone else's first 7C)
- Ian's Trav, Brimham (much harder than Ripple Effect)
- Jason's Roof, Crookrise
- Pumped Up Plastic People, Ash Head
- Sky Diamond, Eavestone

Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: dunnyg on November 11, 2019, 09:55:48 am
Not done it, but I thought ring piece was more like 7b+?
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Bradders on November 11, 2019, 10:03:45 am
Not done it, but I thought ring piece was more like 7b+?

ignoring grades now, lots in this style easier than 7C but all quality problems
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: dunnyg on November 11, 2019, 11:06:31 am
soz
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Steve R on November 11, 2019, 11:34:06 am
Pounce at Brimham?  don't know if you're allowed lights at brimham though? and might be down to 7A/+ on the Hunt scale these days...
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: 36chambers on November 11, 2019, 12:49:02 pm
As others have said, The Drey seems like a good candidate (apart from not being much of a line). And the bonus is that you don't need a spot or many pads. Although if you want the UKC 7C tick you'll have to pester the Caley moderator, as it's currently down as 7B+ despite what the comments and votes suggest.

Superset on the Calf (unless itís been downgrading)

I think this is regarded as 7B+ these days.

Pounce at Brimham?  don't know if you're allowed lights at brimham though? and might be down to 7A/+ on the Hunt scale these days...

I have heard people suggest 7B (or 7B+ at a push) for this one.

Red Baron roof?
Was wondering when this would start getting the downgrade treatment.

Does this mean you agree? ;)
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 11, 2019, 01:34:28 pm
Hunter's roof and red baron roof both look good lines and not too far to drive.

The Drey not quite as impressive, but it fits the bill and Caley is my regular so i'll check it out too.

I came across a video of under a full moon at the Satellite boulder. Anyone reckon that could be a good shout? looks shouldery. maybe fingery too but they're getting there slowly (80kg bodyweight +2kg last year to 85kg+30kg last week on a good edge as per lattice test).
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Bradders on November 11, 2019, 01:51:43 pm
Does this mean you agree? ;)

Ha  :devangel:

No, it's just bottom end so an obvious target. Mainly I was just surprised Will didn't propose it.

I came across a video of under a full moon at the Satellite boulder. Anyone reckon that could be a good shout? looks shouldery. maybe fingery too but they're getting there slowly (80kg bodyweight +2kg last year to 85kg+30kg last week on a good edge as per lattice test).

Incredible boulder. Very fingery though. If you're a board monster you'd probably do well, although your main issue will be finding it dry.
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Will Hunt on November 11, 2019, 02:29:47 pm
I am not really qualified to comment on the grade of RBR as it's the only thing of that type and difficulty which I've done, so I've nothing to compare it with. It's obviously harder than the Keel, but that's not saying much. I haven't really done any proper 7C roof climbs to compare it against. It's particularly difficult to offer an opinion on because I know that I climbed it better and more efficiently than anybody in any video that I've seen of it but I still had to try very hard at the end to get the arete matched. So on the one hand it was "easy" because I cheated by having the best possible sequence; on the other hand I still had to try my absolute hardest and I nearly dropped it at the end. But then, I am notoriously shit at rock climbing and very very weak, so who knows? :shrug:

Basically there are no hard moves on it if you climb it really well, but you can climb it terribly and still get up it you're strong and have a bit of power endurance.

But to turn it into something that has not hard moves, you need to spend the time getting everything really efficient and make sure you're hitting all the holds right (which took something like 4/5/6 sessions for me). Is this what they call "projecting"? Does that mean something can still be hard even if by the time you do it it's "easy"? It's all very confusing. We should stop because down this road lies H grades.
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Rob F on November 11, 2019, 08:48:14 pm
What did we all agree was the font 7c grade of the small rungs of the Depot campus board???

1-6???
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Rob F on November 11, 2019, 08:51:19 pm
Will'll be going tomorrow night. He can benchmark it against RBR...
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: tim palmer on November 12, 2019, 11:08:22 am
I thought bad moon was a stout 7c+ and pretty fingery, although my one session on it (the only time I have seen it dry) was warm (and ripped off the top) so in better conditions it might not be so bad, great problem though.
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Liamhutch89 on November 20, 2019, 10:31:25 am
Got on the drey at caley yesterday and within half an hour I'd got through the bottom to bumping the left hand up with the left heel on but 3 split tips shut me down. Will hopefully get it done next time out!

Definitely suits me so good call! Perhaps I need to pick a 7C that doesn't suit me for my winter goal??
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: teestub on November 20, 2019, 11:14:10 am
Good to hear itís dry at Caley, I thought the heavy levels of moistness might be hanging around there!
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: dunnyg on November 20, 2019, 11:36:25 am
Its been cold and dry for the last few days, time to begin the lamp sessions maybe!
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Bradders on November 20, 2019, 04:10:59 pm
Perhaps I need to pick a 7C that doesn't suit me for my winter goal??

Ha, I wasn't going to say anything, but since you asked...

Targeting particular grades is all very well, but really (in my opinion) they're only useful for tracking generalised progression and on trips when you're unfamiliar with an area.

I think it's much more important to go for something that inspires you in terms of its aesthetics, movement or history. Personally I've found equal or greater satisfaction in doing things I've previously found hard, but that inspired me for any of those reasons, than I have getting quick(er) ticks in styles that suit me but are maybe less inspiring. 

Surely the request should be; recommend great Yorkshire problems! But that would be quite a long list...
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: tomtom on November 20, 2019, 07:45:46 pm

Surely the request should be; recommend great Yorkshire problems that Will is yet to downgrade! But that would be quite a short list...

😃
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: cheque on November 21, 2019, 09:47:23 am

Targeting particular grades is all very well, but really (in my opinion) they're only useful for tracking generalised progression and on trips when you're unfamiliar with an area.

Itís great to get the first of a grade to make you feel like ďI can climb some of this grade at leastĒ and have the confidence to get stuck into the harder ones/ ones that donít suit you too.
Title: Re: recommend a Yorkshire 7C
Post by: Fiend on November 21, 2019, 09:55:42 am
Good post Bradders.
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