[lagerstarfish]

Plan: watch the forecast for any available opportunity to go outside

this is the best plan for happiness 

[Murph]

Nice one Will enjoyed reading that.

Psychology and tactics. When I think back to early 2016 when I was very close to doing this, I was just desperate to get it done and was just going at it again and again without changing anything. In hindsight my beta was crap and I could have done it if I'd really optimised...

Same feeling here from my recent long term proj.

M-16kg kettlebells, hollows
T-16kg kettlebells, hollows
W-16kg kettlebells, hollows
T-works session. Various problems pinkles (5?) thru wasps (6b?). Might have injured shoulder doing a Gaston move.
F-still thinking injured shoulder
S-
S-definitely injured shoulder. Damn this lack of prehab. There are a ton of exercises I’m supposed to have done over the past two years. If I was to do them over the next two years maybe I’d not get injured shoulders whenever I did a Gaston...

[Will Hunt]

Well done Will! when I did Stu's Roof I was told Red Baron be good to try as similar in some ways. Next project?

Did 36chambers put you up to this? I have promised that on the next Almscliff day (i.e. a day when nothing else will be dry) I will look at Stu's, though I'm more interested in Jess'.

I'm quite keen to fill out the grade pyramid a bit. I've felt stronger and lighter this season than I normally do at the start of a winter's bouldering. That might be due to doing some sport climbing - not necessarily doing maximal moves but doing plenty of crimping and getting some more power endurance, and generally just becoming "better" if not actually stronger.

List of things to go at:
Losing My Edge
Pruneaux and Dom's Problem at Yeadon
Lager Lager Lager
Secret Seventh and Crystal Method

Other 7B+ or 7C recommendations appreciated.

[duncan]

There are a tonof exercises I’m supposed to have done over the past two years. If I was to do them over the next two years maybe I’d not get injured shoulders whenever I did a Gaston...

You have to a bit weird to do a ton of exercises which are not especially satisfying and have no clear outcome. Kettle ball swings are so much more immediate and fun.

My suggestion is to choose a couple that are most fun/least tedious and you’re most likely to do consistently 2-3 times a week. They should, ideally, encourage the shoulder muscles to contract with the arm in elevation and, even better, pulling outwards per gastoning. You’ll note kettle ball swings are terrible for this as the shoulders are  relaxed at the top of the swing. I’m not generally a big fan of theraband exercises but pulling a band apart with your arms in the air ticks many of the boxes.

Then you should deploy your favourite behaviour-change techniques to help stick to them: goal setting, public commitment, reward, social support, association (and many more).

Plan: watch the forecast for any available opportunity to go outside

this is the best plan for happiness 

Don’t I know it. Planning a lot more if this in 2019. 

[shark]

Because I finally had a day without cold symptoms, I was able to get my flu jab done.

I'm troubled by this. You had a cold then deliberately gave yourself mild flu.

[teestub]

deliberately gave yourself mild flu.

Very mild, to reduce the chances of getting actual flu, which is fucking horrible. If I worked in a job where I dealt with the public lots I'd take all the jabs going!

[cheque]

I had a flu jab for the first time this year. I don't think I'd have noticed the extremely mild symptoms I had if I hadn't been looking out for them- the sore arm from the shot was worse! Absolutely 100% better than getting the 'flu.

[Duncan campbell]

Forgot to post week before this so will do two in one.

M: Up @4:30 for work. Indy session in the eve, think I finished off some 6Cish stuff I hadn’t got round to doing yet. Did some FBing. Realised I needed to up weight. Did some stretching.

T: Beacon routes w/K-whiddy. Did a load of mileage between 6c and 7a+. 7a+ was tricky and I was happy to do 1st go. Residual pump for the following 6c+ nearly cost me the 1st go tick for that too. Don’t feel like I can fully go for it as Katy is mega preggers but still switch on and go for it when needed. Just aware I can’t skip clips so didn’t get on anything too tricky
W: Indy? Knackered so was shit session.
T: rest?
F: rest?
S: new murples. Easier than wasps imo but strained deltoid on one
S: very much resting/stressing about shoulder

Last week
M: still resting/stressing but feeling better
T: feels much better but still rested
W: good works session. More murples ticke
T: foundry. New wave L3s felt easier than before but everything above felt harder. Managed wasp on far right side.
F: core then works party
S: works party aftermath
S: went for a walk around burbage then dinner @ grouse

Was intending on resting this week not last but hey ho will just have to suck it up this week!

Good to feel good on the murples after a rest.

Hoping to touch rock this weekend!!

[lagerstarfish]

Because I finally had a day without cold symptoms, I was able to get my flu jab done.

I'm troubled by this. You had a cold then deliberately gave yourself mild flu.

I got rid of a cold and then got vaccinated against killer flu - they wouldn't do it while I had a cold (which is a lot of the time)

[tomtom]

deliberately gave yourself mild flu.

Very mild, to reduce the chances of getting actual flu, which is fucking horrible. If I worked in a job where I dealt with the public lots I'd take all the jabs going!

The nasal spray flu vaccine that is given to children (and our toddler) apparently has worse side effects as it’s a live vaccine. So the nurse told me...

[Bradders]

Bit late to the party this week.

M - Almscliff in the afternoon for the second week running. Perfect connies after heavy rain in the morning. Did Crucifix Arete for the first time, then DBS and DWR. Finally did the move on DWR Ear for the first time ever and had a go from the start but didn't do it. Then did DWR LH Stand first go, then the full thing first go. Bittersweet as I've been wanting to do it for ages but it almost felt too easy. Briefly tried Stu's Roof and did all the moves first or second go but then split a bit of skin so went to The Leeds Depot and managed three new yellows.

T - lunch gym, few rounds of bench press, assisted one armers and TRX Is and Ts.

W - fingerboard max hangs, BM2k low edges 4f HC. 10s at 11, 16, 21, 25 and 29kg. Then first go at 30kg I dropped off at about 7s with plenty in the tank, then did another two reps 10s at 30kg. Felt like I was very close to if not at my max.

T - 50 board. Tried an old project and got spat off the end a few times. One go at A Steady Intro stand and dropped the penultimate move but decided it was a bit too fingery to try again. Tried Gourmand-ease for a long while. Did all the moves bar one (LH to wood block undercling; think I figured it out but feels really hard and awkward) and made some good links. Did some yoga in the evening.

F & S - rest and stretching, did a very gentle light jog on Saturday

S - Carrock Fell. In summary, warmed up and did the start of Toejam all the way through to the flakes, it feeling steady away, but hadn't brought up all my pads so stepped off. Once I'd brought the pads up, I then completely failed to get through again. Barely even got the toe hooks again. I don't really know what went wrong tbh. I was struggling to stay warm, particularly my fingers, which was definitely an issue. Afterwards was feeling a bit tired but tried Mr Multiverse; flashed all the individual moves and had two good goes from the start both dropping the LH move to the sloper and then it rained so I left.

[highrepute]

W - fingerboard max hangs, BM2k low edges 4f HC. 10s at 11, 16, 21, 25 and 29kg. Then first go at 30kg I dropped off at about 7s with plenty in the tank, then did another two reps 10s at 30kg. Felt like I was very close to if not at my max.

 

[Steve R]

W - fingerboard max hangs, BM2k low edges 4f HC. 10s at 11, 16, 21, 25 and 29kg. Then first go at 30kg I dropped off at about 7s with plenty in the tank, then did another two reps 10s at 30kg. Felt like I was very close to if not at my max.

How much do you weigh if you don't mind me asking?

[tommytwotone]

Easy update for me - nowt, after the previous weekend's feeling of being run down, tired and a bit lethargic, on Weds I ended up at work having full-on shivering fits and feeling like I was going to keel over.


One trip to Dewsbury Walk-In later and it appears I had a stomach / bowel infection. Back on my feet again after a week off work / on antibiotics.


Will be easing myself back into into it from next week now.

[Bradders]

Cheers HR 

How much do you weigh if you don't mind me asking?

70kg, why?

Hope you feel better 3t!

[highrepute]

Cheers HR 

How much do you weigh if you don't mind me asking?

70kg, why?

Hope you feel better 3t!

to work out what % of BW 30 kg is i'm guessing

[Steve R]

yeah these things are a bit more meaningful as %bw aren't they? 

[jamesturnbull97]

Another late one from me last week having been away on a course this week

M. Left The Red
T. Jet Lag
W.
T. Early start for surf on the East coast, headed to Scarborough N Bay for the low tide. Good size and period but it just wasn't breaking well so didn't stay in very long. Raced up the coast to Sandsend before the tide got too high, as usual much bigger up the coast, found a good bank and had it to myself for a while then a couple of mates paddled out just as it started to turn on and spent 2 hours trading head high barrels until we couldn't paddle anymore. Best session I've had in ages!
Got all psyched in the evening and went to the Depot, did all the pinks apart from 29 & 30.
F. Shoulder felt a bit sore so rested for a couple of days
S.
S. Stanage with Turner & Woodcock. Plantation all wet on arrival so went and drank coffee in Outside. Things started drying up so headed all the way along to Lowrider which was in the wind so had dried but was also bloody freezing. Felt ok on it but was mindful of the shoulder, had a few good goes and definitely keen to return. Wasn't really expecting to be able to turn up and do V10 quickly having not really bouldered in 6 months

[Bradders]

yeah these things are a bit more meaningful as %bw aren't they?

I suppose if your weight fluctuates a bit that might be useful but mine's always been pretty static; can't seem to lose or gain. Hence I've always just thought about the simple weight added.

[cheque]

This has probably been asked before but how do the holds translate between the BM models? Are the holds named the same on these two diagrams the same?

[highrepute]

This has probably been asked before but how do the holds translate between the BM models? Are the holds named the same on these two diagrams the same?

Yes pretty much.

4 on the 2000 is same as 10 on the 1000 which is the hold the strong lads finger board on

[highrepute]

yeah these things are a bit more meaningful as %bw aren't they?

I suppose if your weight fluctuates a bit that might be useful but mine's always been pretty static; can't seem to lose or gain. Hence I've always just thought about the simple weight added.

It's more useful when comparing to others. For example if I could also hang 30kg on those edges I'd have relativity stronger fingers than you because I'm lighter. But they'd be absolutely weaker.

[Bradders]

4 on the 2000 is same as 10 on the 1000 which is the hold the strong lads finger board on

Other way round.

Yes I get that. I think the other thing I've seen it being used for is working out a rough intensity level for other fingerboard exercises like repeaters.

[highrepute]

4 on the 2000 is same as 10 on the 1000 which is the hold the strong lads finger board on

Other way round.

 

[duncan]

BM1000 slots are roughly:
   
4   14mm   
5   28mm
6   45mm   
7   50mm   
8   45mm   
9   50mm   
10   19mm   
11   22mm
12    20mm