"S: Shipley Glen, best conditions I've ever experienced, velcro would love to be as adherent as the rock was today. Warmed up on the usual circuit of technical aretes and walls (all soft by at least 2 grades) and then got on Red Baron Roof. Did it third go of the day, ending my multi year siege. Felt easy, probably only a grade harder than Demon Wall Roof really, just didn't really suit me."
In the interests of continual improvement, what lessons can be learned from this?
Hit Stubbs up for beta
Quote from: Will Hunt on December 09, 2018, 09:22:28 pmHit Stubbs up for betaCould have saved yourself a few sessions, but then you probably would have plumped for a downgrade
T: Bday day out. Stanage, first time in long while. Having never had an issue with flexibility I found out I'm too inflexible, and/or small, to get into position to pull onto The Joker...
10 plus sessions spread over three years. It's over. In the interests of continual improvement, what lessons can be learned from this?I was really surprised today that there was still room for optimisation on the stand, and it made an absolutely massive difference. It's amazing how far you can go with optimisation of beta.Psychology and tactics. When I think back to early 2016 when I was very close to doing this, I was just desperate to get it done and was just going at it again and again without changing anything. In hindsight my beta was crap and I could have done it if I'd really optimised. This season I made a point on each of the four sessions to try some alternate beta.Also, doing it from midway through was a massive confidence booster. Knowing that it was "on" helped hugely.
It’s December, it has certainly got milder but, fundamentally, it been a bit shit for rock climbing since at least 1978.
Quote from: 36chambersT: Bday day out. Stanage, first time in long while. Having never had an issue with flexibility I found out I'm too inflexible, and/or small, to get into position to pull onto The Joker... I had a similar thing, I think we are similar heights. I could pull on with a pad on the starting block raising me up a bit but it felt like a real contortion to get the foot on. I guess it's a weakness of the line. Put me off it until I'm good enough to do the ace start.