"S: Shipley Glen, best conditions I've ever experienced, velcro would love to be as adherent as the rock was today. Warmed up on the usual circuit of technical aretes and walls (all soft by at least 2 grades) and then got on Red Baron Roof. Did it third go of the day, ending my multi year siege. Felt easy, probably only a grade harder than Demon Wall Roof really, just didn't really suit me."
In the interests of continual improvement, what lessons can be learned from this?
Hit Stubbs up for beta
Quote from: Will Hunt on December 09, 2018, 09:22:28 pmHit Stubbs up for betaCould have saved yourself a few sessions, but then you probably would have plumped for a downgrade
T: Bday day out. Stanage, first time in long while. Having never had an issue with flexibility I found out I'm too inflexible, and/or small, to get into position to pull onto The Joker...
10 plus sessions spread over three years. It's over. In the interests of continual improvement, what lessons can be learned from this?I was really surprised today that there was still room for optimisation on the stand, and it made an absolutely massive difference. It's amazing how far you can go with optimisation of beta.Psychology and tactics. When I think back to early 2016 when I was very close to doing this, I was just desperate to get it done and was just going at it again and again without changing anything. In hindsight my beta was crap and I could have done it if I'd really optimised. This season I made a point on each of the four sessions to try some alternate beta.Also, doing it from midway through was a massive confidence booster. Knowing that it was "on" helped hugely.
It’s December, it has certainly got milder but, fundamentally, it been a bit shit for rock climbing since at least 1978.
Quote from: 36chambersT: Bday day out. Stanage, first time in long while. Having never had an issue with flexibility I found out I'm too inflexible, and/or small, to get into position to pull onto The Joker... I had a similar thing, I think we are similar heights. I could pull on with a pad on the starting block raising me up a bit but it felt like a real contortion to get the foot on. I guess it's a weakness of the line. Put me off it until I'm good enough to do the ace start.
Plan: watch the forecast for any available opportunity to go outside
Psychology and tactics. When I think back to early 2016 when I was very close to doing this, I was just desperate to get it done and was just going at it again and again without changing anything. In hindsight my beta was crap and I could have done it if I'd really optimised...
Well done Will! when I did Stu's Roof I was told Red Baron be good to try as similar in some ways. Next project?
There are a tonof exercises I’m supposed to have done over the past two years. If I was to do them over the next two years maybe I’d not get injured shoulders whenever I did a Gaston...
Quote from: duncan on December 10, 2018, 07:43:34 pmPlan: watch the forecast for any available opportunity to go outsidethis is the best plan for happiness
Because I finally had a day without cold symptoms, I was able to get my flu jab done.
deliberately gave yourself mild flu.
Quote from: lagerstarfish on December 09, 2018, 09:10:52 pmBecause I finally had a day without cold symptoms, I was able to get my flu jab done.I'm troubled by this. You had a cold then deliberately gave yourself mild flu.
Quote from: shark on December 11, 2018, 10:29:56 amdeliberately gave yourself mild flu.Very mild, to reduce the chances of getting actual flu, which is fucking horrible. If I worked in a job where I dealt with the public lots I'd take all the jabs going!
W - fingerboard max hangs, BM2k low edges 4f HC. 10s at 11, 16, 21, 25 and 29kg. Then first go at 30kg I dropped off at about 7s with plenty in the tank, then did another two reps 10s at 30kg. Felt like I was very close to if not at my max.
How much do you weigh if you don't mind me asking?
Cheers HR Quote from: Steve R on December 12, 2018, 12:26:01 pmHow much do you weigh if you don't mind me asking?70kg, why? Hope you feel better 3t!
yeah these things are a bit more meaningful as %bw aren't they?
This has probably been asked before but how do the holds translate between the BM models? Are the holds named the same on these two diagrams the same?
Quote from: Steve R on December 12, 2018, 03:27:21 pmyeah these things are a bit more meaningful as %bw aren't they? I suppose if your weight fluctuates a bit that might be useful but mine's always been pretty static; can't seem to lose or gain. Hence I've always just thought about the simple weight added.
4 on the 2000 is same as 10 on the 1000 which is the hold the strong lads finger board on
Quote from: highrepute on December 13, 2018, 08:59:06 pm4 on the 2000 is same as 10 on the 1000 which is the hold the strong lads finger board onOther way round.