[Will Hunt]

Wad or punter, vdiff or E9 it doesn't matter, just list your highlights in the usual categories or make up your own

Top three boulder problems, UK
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Top three new routes/prolems put up
Top Spankings

The previous lists:
Best of 2006
Best of 2007
Best of 2008
Best of 2009
Best of 2010
Best of 2011
Best of 2012
Best of 2013
Best of 2014
Best of 2015
Best of 2016


Best Boulder Problems (UK)
Reservation (7B); Anston Stones. Absolute non-line on filthy lime, but felt nice to do something that felt tricky.

Heaven In Your Hands (7B+/7C); Brandrith. Perfect climbing on a perfect line. No particularly hard moves but reasonably sustained.

Horror Arete (6C); Bridestones. Oh. My. God. Amazing. I had been to Widdop beforehand and done Fight on Black but this was definitely the highlight of the day in terms of quality.

Who Are We Without Moon (7A+) Baildon Bank. For those who like to spring, this is one of Yorkshire's finer pops.


Grape Nut (7B); Earl Crag. The movement on this is so unique and beautiful. It feels like what I imagine a hard ballet move would feel like.

JuJu Club (7B); Caley. What a lovely climb. Not sure why I haven't looked at it before. Felt good to only just get it after I slapped some gunge on the top moves.



Best Boulder Problems (Abroad)
Le Carre d' As (6C+); Cuvier. Boss line with a nice tenuous crux that feels high.

Le Carnage (7B+); Cuvier. Mega classique. Done on a quiet morning at a deserted crag.

Les Poids des Soupirs (7B); Petit Bois. Lovely big dyno.


A Northern Soul (6C+); Hepburn. Fabulous climbing. Felt really nice to flash it.


Best Trad Routes/Solos
Flame Arete (E5); Hawkcliffe. Really enjoyed this. Took me a surprising number of goes to figure out the crux and then there's a couple of committing moves afterwards. Absolute must-do. Felt like 7A on a rope. Can that be right?!

The Sole (HVS); Crookrise. The stuff of classics.

Death Drop 2000 (E4/6C+); Caley. Felt quite spooky at the top. Would have been an absolute pant filler of a trad route.


Best Sport Routes
White Zone (7b); Troller's Gill.

Tufa King Hard (6c+); Chapel Head Scar.

Dromedario (6b; DWS); Ingrina. Absolutely epic. You get a decent way above the sea and then you just start firing out across this overhanging wall on titanic jugs. There's a tricky move near the top and then you do this cool rock over into an undercut on the top slab. Amazing.



Best New Problems
Power Royale (7A); Yeadon Crag. A strength sapping link up and, in my opinion, the line of the block. A genuinely decent problem.

Silk Road (7A); Yeadon Crag. Not strictly mine as Ben did it first, but another genuinely good new problem.


Rocky Horror (6C+); Yeadon Crag. A tasty little mantel press.

Fat Sloper Action (6C/+); Ilkley Buckstones. Nice attractive piece of rock, if a bit on the lowball side.


Top Spankings
Gronff Left-Hand (E4); Chevin Buttress. Has anyone done this? How the hell is it done?

The Gemenid Trail (7B); Satellite Boulder. I've climbed to the top of this on a number of occasions and always seem to get spat off. I really want to do it as it's so good! Ridiculous.


Best New Human Created

[jamesturnbull97]

Top 4 boulder problems, UK
Sole Fusion 8A, Crookrise - A great highball line and moves. Surprised to do it in a session.
Requiem for a Dream 8A, Stoupe Brow - Another great line, after being rained off it the day before we committed to driving all the way back but it paid off with a double tick.
Cosmic Wheels 7c, Mallory Boulder - A very unexpected flash of a N Wales classic just before everything went a bit wrong for me.
Jason's Roof 7c+, Crookrise - My usual approach of not being able to do any of the moves, have a go from the start and just do it.

Top three boulder problems, Abroad - 1 from each of the places I've been this year.
Misericorde 7c+, Font - One of the best in the forest, ticked on a last ditch effort a few hours before leaving for the ferry after being spanked at the start of the week.
El Varano 7c, Albarracin - How I managed to mantle the top I don't know.
Fortune Favours the Brave 7b+, Penitas (Fuerteventura) - Stumbled across a great looking highball scoop while exploring a new area, later found out it was the 2nd ascent, so they let me name it.

Top 4 trad routes/soloes UK
Beau Geste E7, Froggatt - A true peak classic, saved doing the pebble move for the lead as for fear of splitting trying to work it.
Nah'han E8, Gardoms - Compressing a prow above a massive fall. Brilliant.
Shock Horror E6, Ilkley - Not strictly 2017 but still in the past year. Dropped the last move on the flash taking a huge fall, fired off second go.
Tender Homecoming E8 (Highball 7b+/c), Brimham - Not really a route but still wouldn't have fancied a fall from the top.. What a line.

Top 2 sport routes (UK) - You mean Kilnsey
Epic Adventures 8b+/c, Kilnsey - Lots of moves and not much rest, good for being weak after a trip. Just managed to sneak it before the seepage started to set in for the year.
Bullet 8a+, Kilnsey - Nice to get a quick tick in between projects, had a close call at the top when finding it wasn't staying dry in the rain.

Top routes abroad. A 3 month Euro trip means lots of ticks and makes it even harder to pick just 3.
Radote Joli Pépère 8b, Ceuse - A hard won battle against the upper crux that almost made me give up and just tick some routes to finish the trip. A really fight on the top headwall nearly falling after the hard climbing 40m up. Made even more special topping out the crag in the evening sun and dropping the rope.
Ramadan 8b, Siurana - First hard route of the trip, nice to get a quick tick.
Pepito 8a+, Abella de la Conca - What a feature and there's a tufa right up the middle. A good 2nd go fight.
Game Over 8a+, Orpierre - After being shut down in 2016 it was nice to go back and finish it off.
Mal de Amores 8a+, Rodellar - A classic Rodellar tufa endurance pitch and a good education in the use of knees.
Memorias de una Sepia 8a, Siurana - Another route to start the trip off well, first 8 flash.
El Delfin 7c+, Rodellar - The iconic Rodellar route, got really annoyed about not flashing it.
Terene 7c+, Ceuse - Having always been appalling at onsighting it was nice to get up something remotely hard at an amazing crag.

Top three new routes
The Prize 7b+, Brimham - What a line just sat out the back of the main areas.
Boaty McBoatface 7b+, Eavestone - Another highball arete sat in plain sight.
Rocky Horror Sit Start 7c, Yeadon - Hard, basic, a co-ordination 1-2 slap to the lip and a mantle. The full package.

Top Spankings
Unjustified, Malham - A fight with conditions and wetness before sacking it off to go bouldering
Indian Summer, Kilnsey - Hard, Low percentage, Shut down by seepage.
Hell's Boss, Cow Close - 7a+ Mantle, Pah. Can't touch it.

[Bradders]

It's been a big year:

Best Boulder Problems UK

Queen Kong Sit (8A/+); Queens Crag. Did the 7 hour round trip three weekends in a row with a friend. Came close first session but on the second arrived to sideways rain and ended up bailing to Eden Rock. My first of the grade and probably best day out climbing doing the stand quickly on the day and then rattling up the sit half a dozen goes later, made even better by burning off the big team of very strong climbers trying it with me  only downside was my mate getting close but no cigar. One of the best problems in the UK.

Tourniquet (8A); Kentmere. A bit of a siege and a real mental battle, something I now realise I hadn't experienced to this extent before. See top spankings.

Sideliner (8A); Crookrise. Came out of nowhere in my second session. Went up with no expectations but once I knew it could be on that day I was pleased with how I managed to keep it together mentally. Great vibes and perfect conditions probably helped a great deal.

Jason's Roof (8A); Crookrise. Supposed to be the big tick of the season. Trained specifically for it and it ended up going quickly on my first session in good conditions. Definitely 8A for me, miles harder than 7C+s I've done in similar style.

Sky Diamond (7C+); Eavestone. Not the best line but great movement and it was a wonderful feeling going from unable to do several moves first session to getting the tick in my fourth. Taught me some valuable lessons about projecting which helped later in the year.

Resonate (7C); Anston Stones. I really do love Anston. It's just a lovely peaceful place to get spanked, and this is easily the best problem I've done there. Again, taught me several useful lessons, particularly how to break things down into their constituent parts to make them less intimidating.

Best Problems Abroad

2.4 Pascals Sit (7B); Glendalough, Ireland. Only one three day trip abroad this year. Mid-summer is not the best time of year for the granite there but this was a quality problem accomplished on a perfect evening.

Best New Problem

Outbreak (7B+/C); Anston Stones. My first ever first ascent. In my opinion a very good problem as well. Tough to grade as it genuinely gets easier the taller you are.

Top Spankings

Tourniquet (8A); Kentmere. I knew I could do it from my second session. It occupied my thoughts almost constantly from then on, I've never been so obsessed or consumed by anything like this. I got very close in my fifth session and then barely made a dent in my sixth, such that I questioned what I was doing driving all that way and investing all the time and emotional energy. Small fry I know compared with others but it's all personal after all.

Lager, Lager, Lager (7C) & The Flakes (7B); Earl Crag. It's genuinely one of my favourite crags, but why is everything at Earl so flipping hard?! Even worse, they all seem to feel so close yet so far away. I had loads of sessions on L3 towards the start of the year and even started trying The Flakes for an 'easier' tick and still failed!! One day they'll both go and feel easy, and then I'll have to do the same thing on Underworld 

Deliverance (7B+); Stanage. Only one session this year but it was my fourth overall and I couldn't bring myself to get back on it again. I really do suck at dynos.

[monkoffunk]

Didn't realise what I achieved this year, but actually it's been quite good! First 7A+, first 7B and 7c second go. Can't complain!

Top three boulder problems, UK

The Prow (7B); Sand Point. Graded 7C on UKC but definitely not. Awesome problem and entirely my style. Great to do. First 7B!

Diazepam (7A+); The Meds Cave, Cheddar. One of Marks infamous new problems. Might be closer to 7B. Particularly good because I injured my finger on this at the start of the year and managed to rehab it and train at the same time, and still come back and get it done (actually before if had fully recovered...). My first 7A+!
King of Drunks (7A); Llanberis Pass. Just an awesome problem, fantastic moves, and felt super strong on it.


Top three boulder problems, abroad

Rainy trip to font. Didn't get on planned stuff however:

Mystique (7A); Apremont desert. Almost certainly would never have tried this if dry trip. Low ball and uninspiring to look at. Haven't done anything like it though, campus start to a classic font top out. Was actually really good! Never judge a book by its cover....

Lapin ou Canard (7A); Franchard Hautes Plaines. A good problem but a bit too easy at the grade to be truly satisfying.
Reglement Interieur (7A); Roche aux Oiseaux. The best of the rest. A fairly uninspiring bunch. This problem was frustrating due to the horrendous conditions; a proper fight. But I imagine would have been really nice on a good day.

Top three sport routes UK

Empire of the Sun (7b); Ansteys Cove. Long term goal, brilliant route.
Want Out (7b); The Cuttings, Portland. Absolutely excellent. Found sequence that made crux easy, still brilliant, bizarre climbing.
Nightmare Sceneario (7c); The Cuttings. 7c second go, a PB for me. Still hardest grade to date, suggests should be on harder things.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)

Hermanas (7b); Mula, Ferrari. The start of the year. Unforgettable because of how hard I found a relatively easy route after a few months of bad habits. Was good to see this turned around later in the year.

Some nice 7a flashes that were great fun as well as this.


Top three new routes/prolems put up

None this year but gonna mention Pickled Winky, 7A, from 2016 as it is yet to see a repeat...


Top Spankings

Liquid Sunshine (7B+), The Cuttings boulderfield, Portland. Had a fantastic session where I was sure I would do it. Sacked due to finger niggle. Two sessions further in which I got completely shut down and it felt like a different problem. I will do this problem in early 2018.


Lloricas S.A. (7c); Mula, Perea. Came so close to this after two weeks in Spain and it was such a good route. Would have been a dream. Was at such a low for this trip that I just know I could have done it if in shape. Provided motivation for getting back in to form and doing 7c second go later in year!



No new humans, but got engaged so suppose there is always some potential for that!

[kingholmesy]

Top 3 trad routes

El Draco, E5, Bolt Tail

 https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=358318

South Devon escoterica at its best.  A great adventure and probably the first repeat of what deserves to become a Littlejohn classic.

A Whiter Shade of Shale, E5, Butter Hole

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=448126

Went to the crag with the intention of climbing an existing XS, but spotted a really obvious unclimbed line so jumped on it onsight.  Scary but brilliant.

Toltec Twostep, E6, Houndtor

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=58096

Have wanted to do this since moving to Devon, but couldn’t manage the crux in the past.  Skipped a kids birthday party to snatch a couple of hours up on the moor on my own and surprised myself by doing the crux, so much so that I had to down climb and jump off before psyching up to go for it next go.  Was buzzing for days after latching the slap for the finishing jug.

[monkoffunk]

Oh talking of houndtor, I forgot I did Limbo Dancer! That really was a highlight, wanted to do that for about 8 years. Did as boulder with pads on the rock.

Toltec looks amazing, would love to try that one day.

[Sasquatch]

Top three boulder problems, UK Local
1. The Impaler - v11
2. No Pressure - v11
3. Emotionless - v10 got snaked on the FA, but followed up with a send next go. 

Top three boulder problems, abroad
1. The Practitioner v11 - Leavenworth
2. White Lines  v8 - Absolutely amazing line in Tahoe/Donner Summit
3. Full House v10 - Leavenworth

Top three trad routes/soloes UK - None
Top three sport routes UK - None
Top three routes abroad (any genre) - None
Top three new routes/problems put up
1. Vladys Knight and the Crimps v8/9
2. No Pressure (above)
3. Calamity Low - v9/10ish

Top Spankings
No major spankings this year, but also didn't push for new limits.

[Coops_13]

Top five boulder problems, UK

Fertile Delta 7A+ Craig y Longridge

Looking back, this was so so good. Really nice movements. First problem in the video below:


Weedkiller Traverse 7A+ Raven Tor

Nice to finally put this to bed after so many attempts over the years. Went easily in the end and shortly after I ticked most of the similarly graded link-ups!

Power Allowance 7B Tom's Roof

This problem is amazing, felt so good to tick it when a mate unlocked the beta. I love Tom's Roof 

Crusis 7B Cliff

Another problem that went ok with good connies and beta. Nice to get this ticked off, first one in this vid:


Ju Ju Club 7B+ Caley

Really good problem. Taking it from a crouch as I'm not sure how I could ever reach those undercuts from a sit unless Will leant me some lank... Second one here:


Top three boulder problems, abroad

Doctor Med Dent 7B/+ Chironico

Amazing line with every kind of movement including crimps, slopers, undercuts, toe hooks, heel hooks, drop-knees.... First one in the video below:


Blindfisch 7B Magic Wood

Tried this on a previous trip, psyched when it went down

Morgenlatte 7B Magic Wood

Low-ball prow which gave me three stiches in the back of my head:

Minki 7B Rocklands

Another amazing problem with some funky moves involving kneebars, heels and toes through a crazy roof. Also is in the video below at 02:28

The Rhino 7B+ Rocklands

Probably the best problem I have ever done. Second session, just as the sun was rising. Mega. From 05:20 in the vid below:


Top Spankings

Bullet 7C Anston Stones

Three sessions falling on the same move...

Battle of the Skink 7C Rocklands

Traverse into a 7B dyno I did 3rd go. Pinged off hard multiple times, gave me several holes in my fingers

Ben's Groove 7B Caley

Fell off the V2 move at the top three times...

[jwi]

Top three boulderproblems, FR.
NA
Top three boulderproblems, abroad.
I went bouldering one day in Sweden. It was hot and muggy. The area had been abandoned for years. I might have done three problems.
Top three routes, FR.

• Surface 7b+, Gorges du Verdon. Fairly new route following a clear line on an impressive feature on mostly immaculate grey rock. Lots of good pitches. The two hardest pitches are very generously bolted and graded.
• Le plaisir qui demonte, 8a+ Gorges du Tarn. Tried it the year before and got horribly spanked. Went down fairly quickly this year, which always feels good. The best route on the best sector in Tarn (including routes like Nouvelles plantation du Christ and Les ailes du désir). Quite possible the best single pitch sport route I've done.
  
• Femme blanche, 8a+, Céüse. Well known classic, for a reason. I had a hard time with the vertical crux halfway up the head wall, and I am one of the few idiots who fell on the slab crux above that. Had only checked out the runout to the anchor once (for obvious reasons) so arriving there pumped out of my mind and having forgotten the sequences made for a memorable experience.
  

Top three routes abroad
Troncomovil, 8a, Cicera, Spain. Did a very cursory hd-session checking out the moves. After spending almost forever to get to the lip, just a meter below the anchor I realised that I was too weak for my intended sequence. 25 min of up and down climbing to a marginal rest at the bolt below commenced until I could gather enough courage to change to a more risky slap move. Memorable.
La vieja escuela, 7a+, Péchon. Three stars and lots of exclamation marks in my notes. Don't remember much though... goes to show that climbing should always be a struggle to have any point.
El Camino del Rey, 7b+, Raco de Missa. Just got up after 8 days being sick in Cornudella. Much harder than I imagined it would be. A struggle from the first move to, well at least to the intermediate anchor about 40m up. Long.

Top three solos, or trad.
I'm not allowed to solo, and I haven't even looked at the rack this year.


Top spanking
Tennessee, 8b, Gorges du Tarn. I knew it was going to be hard, but I didn't expect the big dynamic slap high up on the route to be that hard. Oh well, I never got through the first crux anyway.

[Yossarian]

Top three boulder problems, UK
A handful of fairly uneventful visits to Bowles / Harrisons. At least I have some things on the list for 2018...

Top three boulder problems, abroad
Cimaganda was the best boulder location I visited this year. Beautiful alpine meadow location. Did lots of quality unnamed 6s. Will be back.
Various things in Bagni di Misino around the La Psichiatra boulder including the highball 5 Fessura del Ketty. Tried some 7s on the Lady Red boulder but I was too weak. Very pretty.


Top three trad routes/soloes UK
Top three sport routes UK
None

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Tunnel Diagonale
Mixomiceto
 - Both in Val Di Mello. Hadn’t been on any trad for years and, though these were not the things we were aiming for (which we would’ve struggled on anyway) they were jolly good fun. Tunnel Diagonale was, in the words of Alan Partridge, lovely stuff.
Via Felici - Spazzcaldera
 - This should’ve been my favourite route of the trip, and the climbing and positions were amazing, but after completing the route we struggled with routefinding to the summit of the Spazz and the decent wasn’t much fun. And then we missed the last cable car down so it turned into a bit of a pain in the arse.

Top three new routes/problems put up
None

Top Spankings
 - I was spanked by alpine rock in general - in retrospect, hoping to suddenly transform into a speedy / efficient mountain route climber after a prolonged layoff and in not great physical shape was somewhat optimistic. Our planned ascents of Torre Innominata and the Ago Di Sciora at the end of the trip might’ve mproved our score, but were not to be because of the Cengalo rockfall and our subsequent helicopter adventures.

[turnipturned]

Top three boulders UK

Made a little video of My 2017, check it out:

Voyager Sit: Massive battle over a few years. 20 sessions of effort, all worth.... I think.
Spindle: Think this is my favourite, everything I wanted from a boulder, big link in a remote location. Fairhead is legit.
Star Slinger: I personally think its a contender for the best boulder in England.

Top three boulders Abroad

Kings of convenience My Rockalnds trip was a bit mixed, went out try one boulder, failed, felt like shite for a few months. This was good, big move for a little man.
The Art Porject Really good, cool that the FA was done by a female.
The office SDS Short trip to Vastervik, Sweden. Sweden is so good, cant wait to go back.

Top Three Routes

Wow, I am shite at route climbing

Frankie goes to Kilnsey: because I found it so scary ha.
La False connection: really cool climbing
Quick Fixe : wanted to do Dalliance, failed miserably.

Top three trad/solos

Went to try Nowt but a Fleein thing, well good, keen to finish that off next season.

Top three Spanking

Monkey Wedding Got super close, was gutted not to do it.
Little Women I find this NAILS
Hourglass made hard by Jon breaking the crimp.

Top 3 FA

I really want to focus on developing more in 2k18

Star Slinger SDS by default, but I will take it. INCREDIBLE.
The National Mistake Link up at Whitehouse, the name is the best bit.

[Wil]

Top three trad routes/soloes UK

Them, E3 6a, Avon Gorge.
Recently moved further south and have been making forays intot the gorge and really enjoying it. This was the autumn highlight, a great line which felt like it would spit me off if I lost concentration.

Flaky Wall, E4 6a, High Tor
Seconded this years ago and had been meaning to get on it for a while. It was the first hard trad route of the year for me and a fight, but a clean one.

From a Distance, E7 6b, Stennis Ford
One that had been on my radar since I started climbing and didn't disappoint. A couple of sessions on a rope and 2 failed attempts on lead before managing it. I've never been good at the kind of fitness required for routes like this, with powerful sections but reasonable rests, but while it was quite hard physically, it was more about being relaxed. Point Blank this year? 

Top three sport routes UK
I was fairly reserved with my sport aspirations this year.
Stone the Loach, 7c, Embankment
Yes it's Embankment, but this is a pretty good route and was very satisfying. I went from struggling to do the moves in May to it feeling like a path in June.

I don't think I have another contender. I ticked off quite a few in the "good but not great" category that had been lingering for a while. Had a great day at Two Tier doing all the 7as.

Top Spankings
Still haven't done Body Machine, despite getting really close.
Right Eliminate - Felt like I was going to kick my cam out and got spooked.

[BAndy]

Top three boulder problems, UK

Pumped-Up Plastic People 7C Ash Head
Just one of many brilliant problems I did there over two visits, encouraged by Dave Sutcliffe's video and the great Unknown Stones topo. A long walk-in but well worth the effort.

Small but Wild 7A+ Derwent Edges
So it's a scrittle fest. And an eliminate. And a long way from the road. But it's still one of the best moves I've done all year.

Pet Cemetery 7A+ Mother's Pet Rock
It's not that big, so why is it so scary? Yesterday's last-minute addition to the list.

Top three boulder problems, abroad not on grit

Tarantula 7C Nuda's Tartan
So it's an eliminate. And no-one seems to know what the correct line is (I joined the Meltdown at the big pocket). But it felt like the hardest boulder problem I've ever done.

The Main Event 7B Benllech, Anglesey
Apparently it's Anglesey's answer to Jerry's Roof. Whatever it is, it's good.

The Excoriator 6B? Peninnis Head, Scilly
An old-school HVS 5c courtesy of HoseyB. A crux harder than 5c leading into a scrittley, sea broccoli-filled flake chimney. Have I sold it to you?

Top three four trad routes/soloes UK

The Horn HVS 5a Ash Head
Unusual lasso protection if you use a rope or a scary solo above the shooting hut if you don't. I was on my own so I had to pick option two.

King's Return E2 5b Burbage North
So it's an eliminate. And it gets no stars. But the moves are good and I almost filled my pants on the solo. Both of these things made it memorable.

Fern Hill E2 5b/c Cratcliffe
Saved it for the solo. I am Jerry Moffatt! Although it may not count as I wore a helmet, a vest and non-Lycra trousers.

Original Route E2 5c/6a Baldstones
Solo. Took a few ups and downs to crack the crux. During which time it started raining. Then I cracked it. Luckily it had stopped and the rest wasn't wet but was very green. I thought it was over before finding the descent was icy. It was nearly the lamest benightment ever.

Top three two sport other routes UK

Diagonal Gully II Sgurr a'Ghreadaidh, Skye
During a very mixed winter, Dad and I managed a few good days on Skye including this brilliant long route. The easiest way off in the conditions was back down the way we came.

Electric Blue E4 5c/F6c DWS Rhoscolyn, Anglesey
I've wanted to do this for so long. It didn't disappoint. Thanks to 205chris and Katie for the photos. I'm not sure how quickly they would have got to me if I'd fallen and hurt myself though!

Top three routes abroad (Scotland and Wales count as abroad don't they?!)

Yellow Edge E1 5b? Cima Piccola, Dolomites
A worthy consolation prize after bad weather ruined our plan to climb the Cassin on the Piz Badile. 14 pitches including an amazing 40m two-pitch crux up a groove. I strung the two together as I though I had enough gear. A few metres up the second pitch, I realised I didn't.

A'Chir Diff Arran
Done as part of the round of Glen Rosa. Classic scrambling.

Final Solution E3 5c Holyhead Mountain, Anglesey
A nice reminder that I can place gear and do have something resembling route fitness.

Top three new routes/problems put up

Alphabet Aerobics 6C+ Ash Head
Leg presses with nothing much for the hands aren't my thing so it may be easier but it is good.

Turtleheadache 7B Coire nan Ceum, Arran
Miles from the road at a beautiful venue. A disproportionately hard first move and a deceptively hard mantel finish. The location may have boosted my opinion of the quality of the problem!

Shovell 6B Peninnis Head, Scilly
Scrittley but good moves in a lovely setting. Quite high and a bit scary with only the one small pad I could take on the Twin Otter aeroplane!

Top Spankings

The Art of White Hat Wearing 7B Froggatt
Stupid sharp finger-wrecking crimp. One of those problems that will remain crap until I do it, then it'll be the best problem I've ever done.

Tarantula 7C Nuda's Tartan
I kept getting shut down. I kept going back. Eventually I got it. I think this still counts as a spanking due to the number of times it sent me home empty-handed with nothing left to give.

The Prow project Coire nan Ceum, Arran
I rather arrogantly thought I'd just rock up and piss it. Shut. Down. It's now been done at 7B+ by Tom Charles-Edwards and named Vertigo. What an amazing line.

[moose]

A fallow year for me in terms of volume of ticking but not a blow out.  I started the routes season incredibly unfit; over-gripping so much I could not string more than six moves together!  Likely a consequence of over-use of my woodie over the winter.  No regrets though, getting a woodie felt like a "tick" equal to climbing any route. 

Top three boulder problems, UK
None: just the odd, isolated session of whittling at old projects; too wet and / or cold to get into any proper projecting.
Top three boulder problems, abroad
Only one holiday, spent doing routes
Top three trad routes/soloes UK
None

Top three sport routes UK
Groved Arete (Kilnsey): A huge highlight that made my year.  I had rejected it as a project a couple of years ago after a few very chastening sessions - where it was apparent it was my total anti-style (power-endurance) with several moves I could not even do in isolation.  But, this year the alternatives were even less appealing so I buckled down and got involved.  The successful RP was one of those slightly magical events where you arrive at the crag hungover and tired, conditions are greasy, and you mess up the initial moves; but then become mysteriously convinced that nothing will stop you, and further mistakes and fatigue are just an amusing garnish to the occassion.  Crag voodoo.
Steal the Show (Kilnsey): Okay, an arbitrary link-up but it gave access to the upper two cruxes of Showtime, which are brilliant.  Next year, if the seepage / hold-breakage gods plays nice, I hope to work on Showtime proper (or, at least bag Stolen Time, which although another daft link-up, possibly combines the best climbing on that part of the crag). 
Dark Stranger (Kilnsey): New route near to Puppeteer.  Good moves; a lowish crux that was surprisingly dynamic on such fingery, vertical terrain, with lots of sustained crimping afterwards.  Unfortunately the rock quality is poor and it will likely get harder and nastier in the future.

Top three routes abroad (any genre)
Just a trip to Chulilla, which was hit by first-time-in-30-years cold / storms / snow.  So, my targets were all seep-shagged and I ended up on lots of relatively harshly graded. old-skool crimp fests.  Highlights were:
Flojo de pies (Nanopark), 7b+
Primerisimas.nu (Nanopark), 7c: very sustained and technical crimping
Gofio askatu (Nanopark), 7b+: nice and varied, pleased to O/S.

Top three new routes/prolems put up
None

Top Spankings
Predator - a few sessions in the Spring, when I was too unfit and the weather was too hot; then some in Autumn when I was suffering from "battle fatigue" after the Kilnsey season.  Got a sequence sorted but linking it felt like years of work. Still, I'll be back for more in spring
El gran dinosaurio blanco, L2 righthand (Chulilla), 7b+ : fell off literally the last move on my O/S, fell off much lower on my too-hasty second go, never came back.
QuickFixe (Kilnsey): After several sessions and lots of pleading for beta, I just could not fit into any of the moves on the initial extended boulder problem.  A very chastening reminder of my basic weakness.  I will not be back!

[Fiend]

Top three boulder problems, UK:
Fuck bouldering. I still want to do Pillbox Original tho.

Top three boulder problems, abroad:
Brainstorm Pitch 1, Albarracin - techy teetery tenacious groove with international team psyche
ARR-B53-L1, Albarracin - overchalked lowball but satisfyingly hard on vertical holds
VDM-B10-L2, Albarracin - haemarrhoid popping mantle delight

Top three personal dream routes:
Andromeda Strain, Carn Gowla - absolutely beautiful in all aspects. Situation, aesthetics, weather, company, challenge, atmosphere. Possibly route of the year?
Extreme Walks, Craig Llong - such a great adventure, did the start move with my eyes closed and the wild finish with a huge grin as the rain started.
Endless Flight, Great Wanney - boring trade route but just one I've been wanting for a decade or so, and finally I can do it and find it fine....and brilliant.

Top three trad intense challenge routes UK:
R & S Special, Raven Crag - I didn't realise this route was a big deal, I was just psyched for it being my style. But dealing with the final crux took all my determination and tenacity. The first crux....I didn't know what a golo was, hmmm. Retrospectively, a big deal indeed.
The Professional, Long Band Crag - vintage lakes, hard in all dimensions, really bloody good.
False Gods, Sanctuary Wall - tired after another dream route of Call To Arms, this was even bloody steeper (1 in 3), up and down the start like a yo-yo...so cool once committed tho!

Top three trad pure pleasure routes UK:
Isle Of White, Wilton One - perfect climbing, moves, gear, everything, from beginning to end.
Mean Feat, Carreg Y Barcud - who doesn't love a crimpy slab. The final easy finish is second only to Crimson Cruiser as "best finish ever".
Life And Times, Uphill Quarry - a chance meeting with duncan, seemingly too hot for proper trad, but I got there. Yet another "best finish ever".

Top three six honourable mentions:
Low Profile, Demolition, Pass The Pigs, Trite Rib, Duel Variation, Helsby in general. - all ACE.

Top three sport routes UK:
Western Front Direct, Navigation Quarry - hard, aesthetic, and scenic
Misadventure, Mountain Ash Quarry - perfect designer crimping
Leonardo Da Pinchy, Rob's Reed - it had a thin start with a big move then a super blind and pumpy finish, really went for it.

Top three routes abroad (any genre):
Arete Paulette, Berdorf - unexpected ease on beautiful rock in a beautiful location.
Tempeste, Berdorf - 5 separate mono moves on a hidden gem
Voleur De Spits, Berdorf - entirely neanderthal and entirely brilliant bucket hauling.

Top three new routes/problems put up:
The Maw, Cardigan Bay - Irresistable delicacies!

The Sea Giveth, The Sea Taketh Away, Cardigan Bay - aesthetic and delicate shale fun
Neptune's Nikon - aesthetic and delicate shale fun

Top three runs with an RC car:
Carisma GT24TR Skatepark fun - such fun, so wow.

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ui6jDX3XOY0HPI Savage XS Camby Crush - still a BEAST.

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LdXHga0XmNgLosi Micro Truggy speedrun - size of your hand, 33mph, nuff said.

Code: [Select]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sRxqLvdZYc
Top three weights lifted:
165kg deadlift - giving me a bit of leeway with the bodyweight!
24kg/arm military press - no idea how I jumped 4kg/arm in a session, but I'll take it
18 pull-ups - new personal best since DVTs. Psyched!

Top three spankings:
Norovirus and subsequent nausea, November-December - Far more debilitating than my unbroken but pureed leg falling off at The Roaches.
Gold at Pembroke - E4 going on E6/HXS. Amazing place but out of my depth.
Autumn in general. Totally shit weather and almost no UK climbing after a great spring / early summer.

Top bonus spanking:
Spending 30 minutes unsuccessfully trying to get the fucking forum code to link to a Youtube video not embed it

[Johnny Brown]

Turned 40. Lots of plans to celebrate with climbing trips, all of which evaporated. Retained brownie points banked for 2018...

Top three boulder problems, UK
Pretty much just stuck to the local circuits and classics again. Don’t get bored of the likes of WSS and Brad Pit to be honest - never get easy, always brilliant. Mother's Pet, Slipstones, Almscliff and Cratcliffe sessions were good too.

Top three boulder problems, abroad. Didn’t really climb abroad. What I did was spend most of February guiding a bunch of conservationists around a disintegrating volcanic plug in the Caribbean to kill the rats. Fascinating place, brilliant people and felt refreshingly real and worthwhile. Photos since show the place is transformed. Life-affirming stuff.

Top three four trad routes/soloes UK
Void, E3, Tremadoc. Almost the only ‘normal’ trad cragging day I had this year.
Manikins of Horror, E2, Craig Arthur. Finally made it here after 23 years since school trips to World’s end. At the better end of British lime.
Supercharger, E2, Neist. Not often on Skye but have heard various unencouraging reports on this over the years. Ignore them - this is a towering stone cold classic.  Fully a hundred metres of vertical dolerite, immaculate cracks lower down then adventurous steeps higher up. I’ll be going back.
Shibboleth, E2, Buachaille Etive Mor. Broke the drive south with this, despite unfriendly conditions and some route finding issues managed a respectfully efficient ascent. Bigger than it looks, fun positions higher up.

Top three sport routes UK. Didn’t clip a bolt. Had an afternoon of DWS in Pembroke with a cool crew in post-wedding hangover scenes. Exultation (E3) was the pick - burly crux leaving you committed to techy vert at a worrying height with the odd snappy-looking foothold for good measure.

Top three routes abroad (any genre) Winter
Point 5, V, Ben Nevis. Avoided the Ben for a long time, but the last few years it’s turned into an annual trip. We nearly didn’t bother this year due to the worst season in living memory, but finally romped up it on a perfect blue-sky day in late March. Incredibly satisfying, not so much for the climbing, which is great of course, but for properly spotting and nailing an opportunity and being almost certainly the only people climbing ice in the UK that day. I never did fancy queues and spindrift.
Downfall Dribble, V, Kinder. I wouldn’t have bothered but Rainbird was frothing. 6am start, swam across the plateau into first place in the bunfight, didn’t fancy getting soaked so dodged right and up a very entertaining tussle up chandeliers, vert and all, full formed and dry while the downfall hosed. Has piqued my interest into what else might be found in the Peak.

Top three new routes/problems put up
Scowl, E3, Coruisk, Skye. Spotted a cunning link pitch to give Skye wall a classic for the masses.
The Big Peep, Druim Nan Ramh, Skye. Amusing afternoon exploring up a deceptively big gabbro amphitheatre culminated in a mind-blowing E5 pitch. Unlikely to see much traffic but will be prominent on the CV I show to St Peter.

Top Spankings
Queer street, E3, Chee Tor. I remember Rainbird failing on this fifteen years back, while I pissed up the same-graded route to the right. Discovered why - it’s not E3 (even by Peak standards). Welsh E5?
 
Non-climbing wise: got the business back on track, shot two walking guides, built some microphones. A decent year.

[36chambers]

Top 3 Yorkshire grit
The Fonze 8a - Happy to get it done just as the bracken were starting to embrace their spot for the summer. 

Inner Reaches 7a+ - Just to the right of Lanny, never heard of it till I was under it and it was just about high enough, slopey enough and scrittley enough to make topping it out memorable and satisfying.

Corporal Khan 8a - It’s a rare treat to go to Whitehouses as there’s not really anything for the GF to try. So I was already chuffed just to be there let alone do the problem quickly.

Top 3 rest of UK.
The Death Clock 7b+, Ladstones - Managed to flash this at the end of a glorious day out with a good team. It felt pretty spicy and my climbing was so sloppy I basically fell up it.

Resonate 7c, Anston Stones - Great moves and I was very surprised to find I could actually span the last move on the send.

Gnasher 7a/Lizard King 7b+, North Wales - Thoroughly enjoyable group trip to Wales, with the day at Sheep Pen being one of the best days out of the year.

Top 3 abroad
Noir Désir 7c, Rempart - A perfect boulder problem that I’ve wanted to do for years. Thought it would be nails and I was almost too psyched when I quickly did it from stand. Matching the high sloper before popping out left was a perfect make or break moment as I was completely convinced I was about to fire off backwards. 

La Bérézina 7c, Cuvier - Think this has been on the top of my Font list since I first went 5 years ago. Movement over appearance all day and I think this problem has a perfect sequence. Last day of a 16 day trip, 4th day on, sickeningly hot day, 2 previous sessions of not being close to sticking the first move. Managed to balance a sitter pad between a feeble branch and the boulder, providing enough shade to just cover the main RH sloper. Took about 20 attempts to stick the first move and topped it straight away… Very psyched and with half a day left I baggsied two pads and wandered over, on my tod, to Apremont Envers to try…

Welcome to Tijuana 7c - Conjured up a poor sequence, I was so broken I could barely work the moves, had a few dreadful attempts, waited patiently for the shadow of a tree to provide solace on the crucial hold then somehow managed to forget my beta and freestyle my way to the end. Genuinely thought I was going to peel off on the move from the jug to the top I was so tanked. Perfect way to end a brilliant trip to Font.

For WTT and ND see



Top 3 Spankings
My PhD. F**k me it’s kicking my ass. New realms of stress.

Zoo York - Had about 5 sessions in 3 weeks in October and was unbelievably close on the first two. Instead it destroyed my instincts and the rest of the sessions were spent flipping between different sequences and different shoes and I’m back to square one beta wise. But I’ve injured my LH now so at least I don't have to think about it till next winter.

Will Hunt’s mum, Cuvier.

[Footwork]

Top boulders

Titanic Arete 7A - Hepburn. This is actually well good. Brilliant arête with lovely jugs at the top. My favourite from a recent county trip.

The Crystal Method 7B+ - Caley. Because I never thought I'd do it.

Special K 7C - Crafnant. Perfect movement. Honourary mentions from Wales are Paul O Grady SS and Lizard King.

Heaven In Your Hands 7C - Brandrith. A Yorkshire must do.

Aerodynamite 7B+ - Fontainebleau. Real thing tick. Ben who?


Top sport

Comedy 7c - kilnsey. If you're only going to climb one sport route all year it might as well be a fun one.


Top routes/highballs

To Be Is Not To Bolt 7A? - Caley. Al Manson, brilliant problem with varying sections. A couple of falls near the top and missing pads for bonus fun.

Shadow Play E4 - Widdop. Only route (fuck me) this year. Strong line though and great team scenes.


Top spankings

Berezina 7C - Fontainebleau. I fell off the top jugs, which should be impossible. Also fell off the top crimp jugs of Alta.

Exorcist 8A - Almscliff. Pulley injury put me out of the game for 2 months. 

[36chambers]

Top spankings
Exorcist 8A - Almscliff. Pulley injury put me out of the game for 2 months. 

Haway, surely it doesn't count if you did the climb afterwards?
A tick is for life and you don't have to endure further torment the next time you dare think you're good enough for another round: Spank spank spank "back home you go now little one, see you next week"

[jimmykay]

Top three boulder problems, UK Grit
The Art of White Hat Wearing - Was surprised to do this. Having started the day climbing Sean's arete and Flatworld (in that order - there was a lot of walking involved) I was full of confidence. Puntered the start for about 30mins before I decided to give it a couple of tries in comfy boots. All of a sudden the footholds became reasonable and I found myself at the last move. Fell off, missed the pads and crunched both my heels on the rocky landing. Also split 3 tips on the attempt. Not to worry, some tape and a brief rest meant that it went next go before the pain set in. Was worth the walking pain for 2 weeks afterward!
Deliverance - Tried this for almost 10 years. Always slagged it off as a lank fest as it killed my ego. On a magic November day, the high right foot technique just seemed to click and I knew that I was going to be able to do it. ~10 attempts (after 1000's over the years) and I was topping it out. Possibly one of my biggest ticks since I started climbing. Absolutely wonderful.
Low Rider - This is class. Fell off the last move with my fingertips over the edge and thought it wasn't going to be a goer. After a long rest to let the pump subside it was a goer. Absolutely awesome gritstone climbing. Those toe hooks are another level. This one makes you feel like Dave Graham.

Top three boulder problems, UK Non-grit
Roof of a Baby Buddha - Sheer utter class. One of the best looking boulders in Wales, and it climbs as good as it looks. This was a top spanking last year. After some of the 'this is Yorkshire' guys turned up and showed me different beta, it was a goer.
Resonate - Didn't think a peak lime problem would make it into the list. I thought this was a bloody great problem though. I've also been spanked by it on a number of sessions over the last couple of years. Finally managed it this year after being rained (snow melted) off the grit and turned up to Anston in perfect conditions. I find this really hard. That last move was a killer for me. Great burly climbing. Found it way harder than Ebola.
Grand Opera - First climb of a really good week in the Lakes in summer. I certainly wouldn't have climbed half the problems that I did if it wasn't for Cooper's sheer utter determination to get to the crag at 5:30am everyday, trek half way up mountains (some times without ever finding the boulders/climbs) and march through head height midge infested bracken.  Khukuri would probably have made it onto this list if I hadn't have had to climb it with only my eyes uncovered and exposed to the cloud of midges. Conditions at Little Font were much different.

Top three boulder problems, Font
Symbiose - This was pretty decent. Thought the climbing was very good and it certainly forces a battle at the end. However, it's a bit of a hole isn't it? Still, it makes it in here for the excellent heel hooky/toe cammy roof climbing.
Envie d'Ailes - Power. Launching off small holds to catch a good crimp which is miles away. Pretty damn basic. Good fun though. Good consolation tick for not being able to manage Coup de Lune.
Figure de Proue - Technique. Great problem. Took us a while to work out how to get established on the arete. 

Top sport routes UK
Grand Canyon - Well this is bloody brilliant. How did this little beauty sneak it's way into the UK. Got to be one of the best of its grade in the UK. It has everything and its sustained nature makes you work for it. Great climbing and well worth putting a rope on.
Sardine - Pretty decent to be fair and makes it in here as my only other 2017 UK sport route.

Top sport abroad
Be Yourself - Literally hanging on to every move at the top with nothing more than sheer utter determination because my arms had zero left in them. It's a good job it was at the start of the trip. Awesome climbing. Gave me unreal expectations for the rest of the trip. Little did I know, it had spanked more than I realised.


Top Spankings
Pogle's Wood Sit Start - Flashed the stand. Then ended up puntering the sit with the worst climbing tactics I'd ever deployed. Thinking it was going to go very quickly I ended up having about 283 attempts in around 13mins. Skin was destroyed and I blew around 4 tips across both hands. This was one of the rare perfect weather weekend grit days, cold and dry and it was only about 1pm. Talk about not having your head game switched on. Great climb and I'm keen to get back.
The Storm - I'm pretty sure you could just copy and paste this from the last 5 years of my posts on this thread. Still completely eludes me. Can't get any closer to the top than the 6inches in my first (of about 7) session.
Secamin Aleykum - I literally cannot hack the excitement at the top. Yet again, instead of getting a solid knee bar and getting my breath back before the redpoint crux - I decided to throw myself at the top and fall off repeatedly. This is why I'm rubbish at sport climbing. This savaged my arms for the middle days of the week in Turkey. One day, I will learn how to sport climb efficiently. One day...
Font weather. Again. When will we get a whole week of decent weather in Font?! Is that too much to ask?

[205Chris]

Slightly self indulgent list from me, but 2017 was the year I fulfilled a dream by buggering off around the world with my other half to some amazing bouldering destinations making it one of my best years for climbing.

Top 5 boulder problems, Font

1 - Misericorde, 7C+. Big YYFY for me, probably the problem I've most wanted to do in Font ever up to now. Fell off the top crimp and nearly flattened by girlfriend on the second session before doing it first go on the third. Yeah, so it's a cliched choice but it's an amazing problem, although it might not be as good as:

2 - De la Terre a la Lune, 7C+. Amazing holds, amazing movement and no skin tearing crimps. It starts off feeling impossible and then the movement slowly comes together. My victory shout at the top certainly confused a pair of local walkers who were out for a quiet morning

3 - Menhir, 7C. Two thirds HVS laybacking and then one third the most exquisite pair of Font slopers you'll ever encounter mixed with subtle body movement leading to a victory jug. Just at the height you don't want to fall off either.

4 - Exponentiel, 7B+. A long walk in and something of a three tiered landing which slopes in all the wrong directions is enough to keep the crowds away. Wasn't sure I had the energy to do it in a session but the alternative was walking back in carrying three pads again which proved sufficient motivation to do it.

5 - Hotline, 7C. Having tried this before and failed to get anywhere near it I decided to walk in with one pad to see if I could work out the start. Managed to figure it out faster than I expected so walked back to the van to get an extra mat to find there was a full on hunt in progress. After saying bonjour to around a dozen Frenchman armed with rifles I collected my pad and then walked back passing some very confused looks and enjoyed a 5 minute conversation with a local about climbing and hunting, neither of which topics I seem to remember learning very much about when I did GCSE French. A random day, but I climbed Hotline.

Bonus mention - Le Dessinateur, 7A+. Tucked round the back of Rocher Greau like an unwanted relative it turns out this is one of the best aretes in Font with one of those all or nothing slap moves which you're pretty sure you'll stick, but if you don't you're going to land on the tree that's fallen over at the base of the problem.

Top 5 Boulders, Switzerland

1 - Confession of a Crap Artist, 7C. Just amazing. Dave Graham tick.

2 - Komilator, 7C. Another one I'd wanted to do for ages. Basic, yet totally brilliant

3 - Arete with the Pocket, 7C. Certainly more French 8a than the Font 8A it gives in the guide, but regardless of grade this is a belter of a problem.

4 - Molunk, 7C. Done in a session but not without plenty of failures at the lip. The tiniest beta change made all the difference, although I was so tired by that point that I missed the move to the jug, slid down and had to throw again. What should have been a victory romp to the top still felt very definitely uphill.



5 - Black Arete, 7C/+. Dosage tick and one of the most beautiful settings for a boulder problem anywhere. Couldn't get my heel to stick on the go I did it so had to invent a sequence on the hoof which resulted in me being way too pumped (and scared) on the highball finish



Top 4 problems, New Zealand

1 - Interstellar Overdrive, V10. Probably the hardest thing I climbed all year, 6 sessions in total. Wouldn't be so bad but when it involves a 40 minute walk in, half of which is up a steep hill with no defined path it begins to wear you down. Climbing it in two halves was fine but I really struggling linking it. A definite mental battle knowing time was ticking down and I wouldn't be returning anytime soon.

2 - Sunset Arete, V8. More of a prow than an arete, like climbing the back of an armour plated beetle. Bit of a sketchy moment at the top where you suddenly realise you're a bit in the middle of nowhere and a long way from help if things go wrong.

3 - Pythagoras, V8. Tucked round the back of Castle Hill this is a beauty, crimps and tenuous smears lead up right to an arete as the ground slopes away beneath you.

4 - Ocean, V6. Wanted to climb this ever since seeing a photo on the other channel. It didn't disappoint. Even had some tourists taking selfies while I was on it!

Top 3 problems, UK

Jerry's Roof, 7C. Came so close 2 years ago where I fell off after the crux. Took some concerted effort this year to seal the deal. Made even better by thinking it wouldn't be dry so went to the cave, found it condensed, drove back to the pass and waited. Dried up with enough daylight left to get it done.



Rock Atrocity, 7C. Cave rite of passage

Ultimate Warrior, 7B+. Off the beaten track and a long walk in for a class problem. Just the way I like them.

Top 3 problems Canada

1 - Worm World Cave, V9. Powerful, pinchy, arete-y goodness. Would have like to have a look at the harder low start but conditions weren't great

2 - Mantra, V8. Great problem with one of those go-ey all or nothing finishing moves

3 - Big Chicken, V9. One of those leg flick momentum to latch crimp moves. Consolation prize for not doing Resurrection, v9 - climbed from a stand but never managed to link it from the prescribed (but still standing) start due to rubbish skin, sharp holds and warm temps.

Top 5 problems, USA

1 - Midnight Lightning, V8. Another YYFY. Another cliched choice involving two attempts and 21 hours of queuing to get into camp 4. Woke up after the first night in camp 4 and did it while most people were still asleep spotted by my other half and a couple of guys we'd met in the queue. No spray, no camp 4 scenes. Bottom wall is proper thumbs over your fingers crimping but the mantel is a thing of beauty, where technique wins out over power. Followed by a mossy E3 slab to get to the top.

2 - Campground Arete, V9. I love aretes

3 - Checkerboard, V8, Such a beautiful piece of rock. Should have tried for the flash but pulled on for a couple of moves in the middle to warm my fingers up then did it first go from the start.

4 - Soul Slinger, V9. Really frustrating problem. Had about 3 sessions on it when the sun was out and wasn't anywhere near then tried it once in the evening and did it in about half a dozen attempts.

5 - High Plains Drifter, V7. Nearly flashed it but didn't. Second go.

Biggest Spankings

Midnight Lightning of Ticino, 7c+. 5 or 6 sessions, didn't stick the crux once.

Eclipse, Font. Wasn't high on the list for this trip but rubbish weather meant this was often one of the few things that was dry. I'll be back

[duncan]

Some people have had great years!

A mixed one for me. Numerically, my best ever for sport and bouldering, but it didn’t feel like I ever climbed particularly well. Think I’m learning how to play those games and perhaps laying the foundations for years to come.


Top three boulder problems, UK

Y Front Direct, Bowden Doors. Late entry, not yet in Power Club! Lovely climbing, a good partner, thin crimps, a thick pad, a freezing and brilliantly clear day, and a deserted crag. Second go and clearly nowhere near 7A despite mint conditions and my ideal style.


Top three boulder problems, abroad

Three from the Franchard Isatis Red circuit. Two hours in the very early morning on the last day of the trip. Glorious.


Top three trad. routes/solos UK

2017 has been a thin year.  I’d decided to focus on trad. climbing over the summer instead of my usual habit of doing a big route somewhere. By the start of August I had built good level of fitness, a little trad. mileage, had syked partners lined up, and then twatted myself.

Zeppelin, Mother Carey’s was great relaxed fun.  Felt about 6a+, I think I had 6 runners on the main pitch.


Top three sport routes UK

Chiming For You 7b, Uphill Quarry, one of my climbing Alma Maters. Last minute date with Fiend, who also had a good day (see above). Really enjoyed it, helped by encouraging partner, vertical thin crimpy style, and going smoothly after minimal rehearsal. I felt like I could climb harder here (see Aims for 2018).

Endgame 6c+, High Tor. The calm before the storm. Unpolished peak lime, unexpected quality, felt I was climbing well and thought it was a good warm-up for Supersonic.


Top three routes abroad (any genre).

No adventures this year (see UK trad.)

Nazgul 6b+, Chulilla. Mediocre, but since it was my first day back on rock after three months out I was pretty happy.


Top Spankings

Supersonic, High Tor. Twice! First time got to the crux, kicked out the gear, and then it started raining. Second go ended in the Northern General having dislocated my shoulder after relaxing on to the final jug. The first time I’ve used UK mountain rescue and worst pain I’ve ever experienced. For a month after I didn’t know how badly I’d damaged my axillary nerve, which could have been a game changer. Thanks again to shark for putting me up.

[WillRobertson]

Been a mixed year with constant injuries preventing any training but my best year in terms of grades. Down to more rock time and less plastic perhaps.

Top three UK boulders:
Ben’s Roof - grade wise way harder than anything else I’ve done, and also took a lot longer than anything else with 9 sessions in total. Really enjoyed the process of piecing the moves together and making gradually longer links. It also went down two days before I moved out of Sheffield, back to Devon. Good timing!
Mermaid (Burbage) - more for the whole day to be honest... Late October day in glorious sun ending in a flash of this problem, so good I did it twice!
Hanging Flakes (Cuckoo Rocks) - just really good fun! Slightly nervy but above a good landing.

Top Font problems:
Beatle Juice - great fun!
Duel Dans La Lune - can’t believe I hadn’t done it til this year.

Top routes:
Empire of the Sun direct - really enjoyable, I’m surprised I managed to do so many moves in a row.
Rainbow Bridge - ok I didn’t quite manage this but what a climb! (And I was very close to it...)

[yetix]

top three UK boulder problems
Captain hook 7B, hurt my wrist last year and couldn't finish this off, so happy to work and finish it this year
Topshop 7B+, first of the grade so I was really psyched with this after a tough year
Left Wall Traverse 7B, basically a route and I suck at endurance so happy to send this

top three boulder problems abroad
Ineschakra 7B+ just sent this and for me it felt like my hardest tick to date
Figure de Proue 7A, for me just the perfect climb
Close Contact Droit 7B first of the grade in font and went quickly which was bliss

[tomtom]

I love this thread. Inspirational. Happy new year all.