[tomtom]

Happy new year!

M: Norfolk

Tu: Drive back from Norfolk. TT Jnr managed to only scream for 40% of the 5 hour journey

We: Grit day Off to Curbar - full of hope, low temps, overcast.. but, Trackside boulder felt a bit spoogy - and though psyche was high, I didnt really get very far on Sidetrack. No end of brushing/thwacking etc.. seemed to improve conditions. Gave up... Wandered up to bad landing to continue working La Muse. Did the throw at the end of the traverse first time! And again - then started to run out of skin (that arete hold has some shark crystals..). Still, progress...

Th: Drive up to Kendal to see the folks and show off grandson etc.. Got a 5:10 knee pad as an xmas present. Result!

Fr: Burbage afternoon -got to remergence about 2:30 - pleasant in the sun, but really surprisingly grippy (enough of a wind). Plan was to warm up and wait for temps/sun to drop then NAIL Blind Date. Ended up trying it before temps dropped, but it felt EASY (well starting on the sloper and crimp and heading up etc..). Sadly, the first move is still a bit of a lottery for me getting the dimple in the sloper (lh) just right seemed to cause me problems. Still, conditions were good enough that one go I had it all wrong but pushed through and my LF spooned off when I had both slots (grr). Then ran out of skin/beans. It a funny one - I was SURE I was going to get it, but getting my left foot on seemed to stop working - which I can only assume is a core thing... Anyway, carried on working away on Blind Ali - there may be a beta request on that soon...

Sa: Rest. Steak for dinner, friends popped around on their way out to some 'celebrity' dinner or other, and some neighbours came over about 9:30 and we drank/ate/saw in the new year/slagged off Jools Holland etc...

Su: Managed to avoid a minging hangover (just). Pub lunch. May do some deadhangs if I feel like it later...

Anyone out tomorrow AM?

[fried]

Happy new year all!

M- Rest
Tu - Slept terribly previous two nights due to sick missus, but met up with Kelvin and his very tall friend at Sabots, very strange conditions, almost couldn't hold anything, not sure what that was about, nice to have a natter anyway. Climbed a yellow and an orange. Did some guiding work. Absolutely beautiful in the forest.

W - Indoors 2h
Th - rest
Fr - Indoors 2h working new steep stuff
Sa - Eat and drank too much
Su - Failed Sharkathon on the first day by refusing to get out of bed. Starts the 2nd, non?

[shark]

Still time for a 30min jog

[fried]

jog on

[shark]

Happy New Year 

11.4-6

M. AM Quick dash out to Stanage. Cold and windy. Soloed Via Media VS with numb fingers and then Hargeaves Original VS - always a privelege. Backed off Queersville HVS.

T.  PM  Went down Foundry with a view to doing a bit of bouldering before going on systems board but ended up spending 4 hours bouldering mainly with Keith.  No progress on white and black spots. Did the gastons problem on the woodie. Worked a couple of the moves on the pink and black spotty on steep bit.

W. AM Coaxed out by 8bMark. Arranged to meet at Frogatt layby at 10,30. Drove out of S10 in blue skies and then into horrid clag by the time I reached Ringinglow. Persuaded Mark to try Rivelin. Drove back to S10 and sunshine and out again to Rivelin. No other climbers. Unlocked a tricky 6B+ wall (Where Bulldykes Darent) eventually and I repeated it just to show Mark how it was done  Then on the excellent Acid Reign where it was Marks turn to find the right sequence and I got it next go. Wandered across to Purple Haze 7A+. Burly. I couldnt get the high crimp though overshot it once but looking at vids later I was going with the wrong hand anyway. Mark made several big but unsuccessful efforts to link it. We then drove back to my place for a cuppa (5minutes drive away!). I think Mark was fairly appalled that I lived so close and had never bouldered there. I think I had avoided it because I thought the bouldering was all obscure, green and with bad landings which definitely wasn't the case on the stuff we saw and tried, Definitely going back - especially when weather worse in Peak

T. Beautiful day. Shame not to go out Systems board. New PB on throws. Feeling good on Gastons too. Eve Systems board. AnCap session. Poor scores.

F. More leaf shifting in garden then 5 mile walk round White Edge and Curbar/Froggatt with family. Late PM Forced myself to do a FB sess. Despite low expectations and weighing heavy added 2.5kgs and managed the 5x5 repeater set on drags/chisels. Finished with fingerrolls and 3 succesive deadlifts at 110kg

S. Noon. Popped into office to fix a toilet cistern with my bro. Snuck in an AnCap session - usual 2 sets attempting 200moves overall. Scores better than thurs but still off PB of two weeks ago though I am 2/3 lbs heavier

S. PM. Went to Foundry. Shut. Drove to office. Systems board AeroCap 20/10's - 3 sets =360moves

Lattice report confirmed that I should keep focusing on fingerboard and AnCap

[Muenchener]

STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever: postponed. Focus on ancap training now for the spring sport season / arrange early spring Spain trip
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Between The Years

M: An hour on the bike to & from Boulderwelt in order to use their gym for:
   An hour general strength training centered around this kettlebell shoulder routine, plus offset pullups and trx planks. Particularly liked the armbars and windmills from the kb routine, stabilising the kettlebell overhead in chest-opening positions seemed like a good idea.
T:   Wall, Thalkirchen, eleven routes. Felt dreadful on the first few, but it seems I was just warming up slowly because I then proceeded to onsight a 6b+ and two 6b's. This would be a decent indoor routes sesh for me at any time, let alone when I've scarcely done any endurance work for three months. Encouraging.
W:
T: Boulderwelt with M jnr & friend. Feeble attempts to boulder - not recovered from routes on Tuesday? The actually valuable part of the evening was probably after Frau M took the boys home and I did a dozen aerocap circuit intervals (boring, painful) and half an hour kettlebell shoulder routine & trx planks.
   Two hours bike home -> work -> boulderwelt -> home
F:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen 2 x 20 ARC. Quick pre-party training session to round the year off.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. An hour fingery-bouldering-with-a-hangover for strength maintenance, preceded & followed by 20 minutes ARC warm up & warm down

[nai]

AnCap session - usual 2 sets attempting 200moves overall.

Lattice report confirmed that I should keep focusing on fingerboard and AnCap

What are you doing for your AnCap workouts? 200 moves sounds like too many moves/too low intensity?

[36chambers]

M: Earl Crag. Parked up and the car almost blew away. Somehow made it to the crag but there wasn't a chance in hell my pads would stay put once I started climbing. No climbing was done.
T: Earl Crag. No wind, slightly muggy. Found 5 different ways to fall on the same move on Lager Lager Lager 7C. I'm not sure I'll ever figure out this problem
W:
T: Caley. Quick, subpar, session on Zoo York. Had 3 goes on Crystal Method 7B+ and got to a new highpoint. One day I'll catch it with its guard down. 
F: Almscliff. Repeated Dreamland, Stu's Left and the usual circuit. Nice to climb in the sun.
S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? 
S:

[nai]

Happy New Year y'all

goal - fix neck, resume full training

Mon - Another day trapped in the rellies house by the filthy Scottish weather. Becoming totally stir crazy

Tue - drive home. Back fucked but neck feels ok

Wed - perfect grit connies, so a family walk over Baslow & Curbar featuring 2 reluctant kids and a reluctant dad, got to watch folk climbing and discussing epic connies.
 
Hour on the board late afternoon, bit rushed, very hard to get going after six days off, might have pushed too hard too soon.
Shoulder Weights/rehab
30 minutes yoga in the evening.

Thu - walked Mam Tor ridge with family.  Epic sunset scenes.
2x10 mins LI AeroCap on campus board. Couldn't be arsed with a 3rd set
Noticed soreness at base of LH middle finger - A0? See Tuesday

Neck no longer ok...

Fri - nowt/sulking

S - HI AeroCap - usually manage 1 set of 10x1min. Was blowing out of my arse by rep 5, failed rep 7, just managed 8 but too pumped to pull on to start 9.
Shoulder weights/rehab

S - nowt

[T_B]

M - Boxing Day run. Got paced round what I thought would be a flat 10k but it wasn't quite 10k. Interesting running on the flat.
T - Works pm. Late, short sess after drive back from Norfolk. Heavy but not totally rubbish on the Motherboard.
W - building Sheffield's steepest board in garage. 3m 'high/long' at around 65 degrees.
T - as above
F - Foundry pm. Good wave session then some pull ups.
S - snuck in a repeaters sess. Felt good on 2 x 6 x 7 front and back 3 with 2mins30secs rest, then 1 x 6 x 7 half crimp.
S -

Phase 1 of the board is complete (minus holds). Phase 1 is her board. Everyone who looked at it on NYE were thinking wtf, but what can I say,  she likes roofs. Phase 2 will be a 20 degree circuits board, so not that steep but probably more like the angle you climb on 'in real life' as my 3 year old might say.

[shark]

AnCap session - usual 2 sets attempting 200moves overall.

Lattice report confirmed that I should keep focusing on fingerboard and AnCap

What are you doing for your AnCap workouts? 200 moves sounds like too many moves/too low intensity?

25 x 4 moves up and down the systems board with 2 mins rest between intervals. Then 10 minutes rest with a second set. 25 moves takes 55-60 secs. Classic AnCap structure.

[nai]

Classic AnCap structure.

You sure?

I'd say doing sets of 4 reps of a 12 move/45s circuit on a 40+ board with nominal difficulty of 4-5 grades below your max was Classic AnCap structure and that what you're doing is a bit makeshift.

[dave]

3m 'high/long' at around 65 degrees.

That's too much, even if you're measuring that in Fahrenheit.

[T_B]

25 x 4 moves up and down the systems board with 2 mins rest between intervals. Then 10 minutes rest with a second set. 25 moves takes 55-60 secs. Classic AnCap structure.

I'm not qualified to say that's not AnCap, but that doesn't sound like AnCap!

I thought AnCap was 12 to 14 frickin nails moves. Which is why you get strong at bearing down through crux sequences even when pumped. 25 moves is plodding (AKA AeroPow).

[webbo]

Mon. Board did a project from last week, couldn't do its mirror though.
Tue. Bike 63.64 miles 3hrs 43 mins.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Nothing
Fri. Board tried project from Monday a few times a bit closer. Repeated some problems from this time last year, flashed them. Turbo 40 mins 1 min on 1 off x 10 plus warm up and down
Sat. Board did a project I was trying in September and October 2nd go. Still not getting other project, flashed 4 problems from last January.
Sun. Bike 37.78 miles 2 hr 28 mins hilly and very windy got rained on, hailed and sleeted on.

[abarro81]

Thoughts on the ancap/ not ancap front:
1. 25 moves in 55sec is very fast, even for a circuit you know well. Having a longer contraction might be useful whether that's from more foot moves, harder moves or whatever. Especially given that you're nowhere near that speed on your project.
2. Ancap is a spectrum. This is the upper end of the time frame and the lower end of the work:rest ratio IMO, I.e. we're operating at the pumpy end of ancap. If it were me I'd advise doing some more stuff on shorter problems with proportionally longer rests as the strength crossover is likely to be higher and you need to get stronger. Harder moves will likely also force your moves per minute lower as talked about above. In any case, make sure you're powered out rather than pumped.

[shark]

nai / barrows / tom

Thank you. Not for the first time it seems I have fucked up. I have been doing this routine for so long I'm unsure how I got the wrong end of the stick in the first place but I have checked Binney's guidelines and I should be doing what you all suggest.

 

[TobyD]

S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? 
S:

Yes, I do. It feels like a slightly different pump to actual climbing though. I suppose I probably do more 7 on 3 off than 5/5, I cannot remember which feels pumpier at the moment, as i haven't done any in anger for ages.

[Tommy]

Thoughts on the ancap/ not ancap front:
1. 25 moves in 55sec is very fast, even for a circuit you know well. Having a longer contraction might be useful whether that's from more foot moves, harder moves or whatever. Especially given that you're nowhere near that speed on your project.
2. Ancap is a spectrum. This is the upper end of the time frame and the lower end of the work:rest ratio IMO, I.e. we're operating at the pumpy end of ancap. If it were me I'd advise doing some more stuff on shorter problems with proportionally longer rests as the strength crossover is likely to be higher and you need to get stronger. Harder moves will likely also force your moves per minute lower as talked about above. In any case, make sure you're powered out rather than pumped.

1. Totally agree. The contraction ratio is actually quite important. The longer and more intensely you contract the muscle the greater the stress to the anaerobic pathway = ultimately you want lactate production rate to go up. (If that goes up = more ATP from the pyruvate<-->lactate redox if you want to be geeky).

2. Deffo aim for power out not pumped.

Simon, if you want basic style AnCap in a system style then a campus board is a pretty easy way to do it and I suspect much closer to the intensity that you want.... but I could be totally missing that you're doing it all on undercuts or something in case case, carry on as you are! :-)

[TobyD]

Mon 20 minutes turbo early morning, 33 mile ride in beautiful sunshine
Tue 30 minutes turbo early morning; 20 minutes turbo
Wed 20 minutes turbo early morning; gym; 20 mile ride
Thu 30 minutes turbo early morning; gym
Fri 20 minute turbo early morning, gym.
Sat 30 minute turbo early morning; 20 minute turbo; few pull ups and bit of core.
Sun 30 minute turbo early morning; got a train to Sheffield.

Pretty psyched to manage a few pull ups |(sets of all of 3...), having not been able to engage shoulders to start one pull up a couple of  months ago. Feeling fit (for me!) on a bike too. Going to be challenging trying to get any training in at the moment, as being not allowed to drive, and working in Bakewell is going to be a tricky commute. Likely to end up walking a lot I guess.

[shark]

nai / barrows / tom

Thank you. Not for the first time it seems I have fucked up. I have been doing this routine for so long I'm unsure how I got the wrong end of the stick in the first place but I have checked Binney's guidelines and I should be doing what you all suggest.

 

Right. I've found what I based it on which was in Dave Binney's presentation here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/principlestraining.pdf

On page 8 it says:

Level 3 Anaerobic Capacity
• Following a warm up, you need to start off with a climb at regular on-sight grade, followed immediately by 2 x (4 x 25M) Rest 60s intervals, 15 min sets

However, that doesn't entirely square with his guidance on the table on page 10

[moose]

Perhaps I am an overly simple man, dining at a table too rich for my tastes, but it seems Shark that you might be best reducing this to basics.  If you are too weak, get strong: hard bouldering that makes you move fast: training boards with shit footholds (personally I am loving the Depot 30 degree) and sessions of limestone bouldering. 

Take the traditional approach: get strong over winter, build fitness over Spring.  Maybe do a few quality easier routes, classic 7c+ to 8a/+s, to build psyche and strength before settling in for grinding the Oak, rather than just getting straight into the Oak with no memory of what it feels like to clip a belay.  Get ready to crush in Autumn or late Spring / Summer evenings.   (Mis)interpreting energy systems and trying to "science it" just seems like unnecessary overcomplication.

[Tommy]

Right. I've found what I based it on which was in Dave Binney's presentation here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/principlestraining.pdf

On page 8 it says:

Level 3 Anaerobic Capacity
• Following a warm up, you need to start off with a climb at regular on-sight grade, followed immediately by 2 x (4 x 25M) Rest 60s intervals, 15 min sets

However, that doesn't entirely square with his guidance on the table on page 10

Yup you're quite right.... I nearly wrote what I'm about to write in the comment above but then decided against it (as I wasn't sure if I was second guessing you) Fundamentally I disagree with this session guidance and I've raised it with Dave - he's pointed out that he took it from a text book and was trying to best interpret some tables but hadn't tried it out himself. This is one of the good things about coaches getting to meet up and discuss as that they know the context of how and why a session was put together. Previously I would have blindly followed it, but I'd not realised until I chatted to Dave about it, that it was a theoretical session and not yet tried out. It's good we have the forums as a second measure, although I do wish more coaches would contribute to this stuff as I find it really interesting.

[shark]

Feeling annoyed about this,  but ultimately my fault for not digging further.

Probably explains why my AnCap is shit but AeroCap is ok.

I'll sort out alternative routines this week probably with Oak moves incorporated.

What rest interval between attempts and time per move should I be working around?

[T_B]

Alex describes it as 12-15 moves (30-50 seconds climbing time). Rest 2-4 times climbing time.

I would have thought you should be focussing on the lower end of moves / max rest time I.e. 12 really intense moves taking approx 30 secs where you need 2 mins to recover.

[shark]

Thanks Tom

[nai]

Not sure I'd want to do the same set of moves twice a week so I'd make two circuits if I was you (ground to horn & gastons traverse?)
Also 12 moves in 30s sounds a bit fast, reckon that'd take me 40-45 seconds unless it was very basic, bearing in mind what Tommy and Alex say about contraction times.
Agree keep it higher intensity with longer (3-4x) rest times. Make it more difficult when the time comes rather than reducing the rest.

[Nibile]

Happy New Year to all!

Mon - snatch grip trap pulls 5x10; dumbbell complex x10 + dumbbell thrusters x5 all x5, brutal.
Tue - BM new 3fingers session, plus a few 2fingers hangs, brilliant, felt progress! 30"/30" x5 overhead walk 41 kg; 30"/30" x5 shoulder walk 46 kg, very hard. Neck bridges, Mike Tyson here I come!
Wed - weights; boxing bag.
Thu - rest.
Fri - muscle snatch; dead stop clean; some board climbing. Still fucking forearms DOMS.
Sat - dumbbell complex x3; boxing bag. Brilliant last session of the year.
Sun - hill sprints x6; boxing bag. Brilliant first session of the year.

I've been a bit slack on the board front, but the last project had drained me, both physically and mentally. The BM session and the quick board session have been great though.

[abarro81]

What TB said.
Other thoughts
- I always presumed that that Binney session was a misprint!
- If you've been doing exactly the same thing for so long that you can't even remember then you need to mix it up anyway!

[Luke Owens]

Happy New Year guys!

After 2 days of eccentrics for my golfers, the pain in my elbow actually appears to have almost completely disappeared. On the flip side my forearm extensor muscles have a massive amount of  DOMS and feel like they've been savaged. Is this normal or have I pushed it too far? Cheers

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Lunch - Few press ups, pull-ups and IYT's.

Deadhangs testing A2 injuries:

4 Finger "Open Hand, Open Crimp, Chisel, Natural" grip, 2 mins between hangs:

Large 2nd joint edge - 10 secs
LH large edge RH pad and half edge - 10 secs
RH large edge LH pad and a half edge - 10 secs
LH large edge RH pad and half edge - 10 secs

Stopped there as A2's felt "worked" but not painful, zero pain after session.

Finished with 3 x 8 secs max hangs, 3 finger open hand on a 20mm slightly incut edge, causes zero irritation to my A2's.

Finished with 2 one arm pull-ups on each arm with low waist height bar as assistance.

Eve: Boardroom - 4 x 5min on 5min off LI-Aerocap on the autobelay.

Beastmaker:
Big pockets - 3 x 10 secs (3 finger open)
35' slopers - 3 x 10 secs
Lattice test edge (20mm?) - 3 x 5 secs (3 finger open)

Attempted to campus on the big sloping grippy campus rungs, managed 1-2-2-... a few times. That thing is like my complete anti-style, campusing AND slopers...!

Campused up the system board on massive jugs, roughly referenced to campus board spacing:

1-3-5-5-8 - Leading LH
1-3-5-5-8 - Leading RH
The above x 3

Then the same as above but going again with the same hand on the first 2 moves x 2

2 x 2.5mins on (~30 moves) 5 mins rest on the Piscobloc. Aeropow territory, would be good to do a full Aeropow workout on this next week.

30 mins continuous LI-Aerocap on the autobelay

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Plas Power - 6 x 5 min on 5 min off LI-Aerocap

2 x (5 x 1min on 1min off HI-Aerocap) 5 min rest between sets

15 min LI-Aerocap warm-down

F: Rest - Forearms tight, elbows sore (Probably from campusing and down climbing on autobelay)

S: Rest - Forearms tight, elbows sore. Read some of Macleods "Make or Break".

S: Eccentrics (both arms):
Palms-up curls - 6 x 15 (8kg)
Pronator Teres (straight arm) - 6 x 15 (2kg)
Palms-down curls - 6 x 15 (3kg)

[36chambers]

S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? 
S:

Yes, I do. It feels like a slightly different pump to actual climbing though. I suppose I probably do more 7 on 3 off than 5/5, I cannot remember which feels pumpier at the moment, as i haven't done any in anger for ages.

I opted for 5 on 5 off because I always get too pumped doing 7 on 3 off. But they may be equally as pumpy for me.

On the 5 on 5 off I felt like my forearms had doubled in size and were close to bursting. A sensation I haven't had since I stopped sport climbing a few years back. It's interesting as I don't get this kind of intense pump even when doing 1 min on 1 min off foot-on campusing till failure.

Will probably stick to one arm max hangs, as I'm only really after pure strength.

[Palomides]

Lighter week, as expected

M - 6.8km run. Despite what the Andersons say about heavy legs, I intend to keep running at least once per week, and maybe think about a trail race or half-marathon in the spring
T - DIY Pilates session following videos. Enjoyed this and can see how it's a good mix of core/flexibility, but am very wary of continuing with videos. Some of the exercises feel like they need to be done with very good form, and it's not pratical to do a regular class. Will probably stick to DIY Yoga.
W - Lunchtime wall bouldering. Good session, made a bit of progress on a couple of problems, still limited by dodgy knee.
T - walk with kids. 11km up to the top of Mt St Baudille. nice day, good fun.
F - Easy short run. Knees surprisingly OK after walking the day before. God I sound fragile.
S - No training, unless dancing like a middle-aged fool counts.
S - Extra sleep, easy walk in the sun. No hangover, so will insist on nothing but Champagne for all social events from now on.

A good start to the year. Considering buying a fingerboard to fill in the gaps and try to bump finger strength up a level.

[duncan]

STG: Rehab. shoulder, loose 1.5kg by end of January.
MTG: RP 7b.
LTG: 7b+. E5. Tempi Moderni August 2017 + one other long, hard and free

M - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Step-ups x 20 mins. Hip and trunk exercises.
T -
W - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Step-ups x 20 mins. Hip and trunk exercises.
T - Portland with bridbeast, Mike Highbury and the retired super-alpinist. Puntering to ~6b, lovely to be out, shoulder not great. 
F -
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises. Built DIY rock rings for isolated finger training. Lifted 30kg.
S - 
M - 
T -  Finger board lifting. Half crimp and drags (30kg), pinch training.
M - 
T - 
F - Finger board lifting. Half crimp and drags (32.5kg), pinch training. Shoulder rehab. exercises.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
S - Finger board lifting. Half crimp and drags (32.5kg), pinch training. Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.


Shoulder less sore through rest. My DIY rock rings seem to be doing something and the shoulder is tolerating this so far. Poorly over Christmas, even less active than usual, blew out a first date (sorry Ed. if you read here), but I lost a little weight! 

Plan: work on the finger strength in isolation, easy rehab. climbing  / aerocap, hammer the shoulder rehab.

[T_B]

M - 6.8km run. Despite what the Andersons say about heavy legs, I intend to keep running at least once per week, and maybe think about a trail race or half-marathon in the spring

Go for it. My average weight for 2016 was approx a kilo heavier than in 2014 and 2015 having run 900Km in 2016 compared to not running at all really in the preceding two years. I am a big build, so have undoubtedly put muscle on my legs. I'll take the 1.1% increase. Compared to previous years I have not dieted all year. On reflection, I think I've been eating more than I have had to to fuel the activity (paranoia over 'bonking' on runs and general ethos from nutritionist, Rebecca Dent, who reckons climbers don't eat enough). The bigger 'issue' might be trying to balance training for running and training for climbing. I'm finding competing ambitions quite difficult.

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: Shoulder complaining quietly, bit annoyed as thought 3 day week and 2 long weekends might have been improved.
Sleep: Plenty this week, unsuprisingly. Still woken about 4 and struggled to drop off again a couple of times though.

M: nowt, drive back from Cornwall.(7.5~hrs)
T: TCA aft, finished the last black from the December comp, and went back on last white (roof) for first time in a couple of weeks - felt fine from standing and ok from sitting to crux (10th move) but not very close to holding that tbh. Felt much better than first time I tried it though, so positive. (~6.5hrs)
W: TCA eve, just stripping to give the boys a head start with the reset next day. Did 147 on the way out first go though. (~7.5hrs)
T: TCA eve, Play on new greens (6's) and more efforts on the white in the roof, still getting to crux fine, but feeling further from holding it. (~6.5hrs)
F: TCA eve, decent session on greens and as close as possible to the white roof - dropped after matching finish, but not quite in control. (~7.5hrs)
S: nowt, out on tiles in eve (~few hrs)
S: sleep, doze in bed, eat massive roast, doze in front of telly (~many hrs)

70kg.

[shark]

S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? 
S:

Yes, I do. It feels like a slightly different pump to actual climbing though. I suppose I probably do more 7 on 3 off than 5/5, I cannot remember which feels pumpier at the moment, as i haven't done any in anger for ages.

I opted for 5 on 5 off because I always get too pumped doing 7 on 3 off. But they may be equally as pumpy for me.

On the 5 on 5 off I felt like my forearms had doubled in size and were close to bursting. A sensation I haven't had since I stopped sport climbing a few years back. It's interesting as I don't get this kind of intense pump even when doing 1 min on 1 min off foot-on campusing till failure.

Will probably stick to one arm max hangs, as I'm only really after pure strength.

So this is the Crusher 5 sets of 5 secs on 5secs off with 5 mins off between sets? If so, no I dont get drastically pumped - I certainly don't fail due to being pumped - my fingers just tend to collapse if doing a half crimp session or slide off if doing a drag/chisel session. If we are doing the same thing I don't know what this says about me or you.

Currently I am doing doing the sets pyramid style and am currently up to doing Set 1 on 14mm edge Set 2 on 13mm edge Set 3 on 12mm edge Set 4 on 13mm edge Set 5 on 14mm edge. With the half crimps this is bodyweight only and with drags it is with +7.5kgs.     

[abarro81]

I've heard that Rebecca Dent advice before. Let's just say I'm hugely sceptical unless she means people should be cycling their weight up and down more than she thinks most climbers do.

[measles23]

71kg

M- Rest
T- Big Rock at Milton Keynes: Hopped up a few routes up to F6c with Alison and the boy; played on their cool looking 45 board for half an hour or so.. Bizarrely while we were there someone else suffered an identical open tib/fib fracture to mine; Alison's now doing a literature search to see if pattern of injury has changed as matting has got thicker (in the 90s the vast majority were ankle fractures)..
W- Rest
T- Rest
F- Rest
S- BM2k max hangs small rungs: 11sets up to +55kg x 4s both open crimp and full crimp
S- North West Face at Warrington (only wall open in a 50 mile radius): hopped up a few routes and handful of probs up to V4.
Sharkathon 30 min on exercise bike..

[36chambers]

S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? 
S:

Yes, I do. It feels like a slightly different pump to actual climbing though. I suppose I probably do more 7 on 3 off than 5/5, I cannot remember which feels pumpier at the moment, as i haven't done any in anger for ages.

I opted for 5 on 5 off because I always get too pumped doing 7 on 3 off. But they may be equally as pumpy for me.

On the 5 on 5 off I felt like my forearms had doubled in size and were close to bursting. A sensation I haven't had since I stopped sport climbing a few years back. It's interesting as I don't get this kind of intense pump even when doing 1 min on 1 min off foot-on campusing till failure.

Will probably stick to one arm max hangs, as I'm only really after pure strength.

So this is the Crusher 5 sets of 5 secs on 5secs off with 5 mins off between sets? If so, no I dont get drastically pumped - I certainly don't fail due to being pumped - my fingers just tend to collapse if doing a half crimp session or slide off if doing a drag/chisel session. If we are doing the same thing I don't know what this says about me or you.

I wasn't following any protocol, but I was using 2:30 rests, which felt okay at the time but may have been the problem. Will try again with a longer rest and see if it helps. 

[Sasquatch]

M-Rest
T-Routes in PM
W-Boulder  - Easy Session
T-Moonboard - Hard session
F-Touring Ski - 4 hours
S-Skate Ski 15K -1 hr
S-Moonboard - hard session

Good week - felt pretty good on routes, but no real stamina for a long session.  Felt good on the moonboard as well. 

[petejh]

STG: Secret winter goal - first need a winter. Send exisitng projs at Crag X, G.Orme, Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Develop routes at Mega Crag X. Send proj on L.Orme.
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Two-week catch-up.

M. MA. Core/mobe sesh.
T. Fingerboard sesh: reduced size of the BM2K large slots by placing AAA batteries in slots to make them approx size of the bottom middle rung but not incut. 5 x 10secs with 8kg.
W. MA. Core/mobe sesh.
T. Moonboard sesh. Attempting some 7Bs.
F. Drytool power-endurance sesh on 'HomeTrainer^TM': 5 x 3mins on axes through rope loops in attic opening. One hand/one foot allowed. 6 lockoffs and 3 pull-ups per min, while stood one-footed in big boots on wobbly upturned large pepsi cup.
S.MA. Kettlebell sesh.
S. 

M. MA. Ferry to Dublin with extra new-routing gear in van.
T. New-routing at Mega Crag X.
W. New-routing at Mega Crag X. Fingerboard in pm: 5 x 10secs with 10kg on BM2k large slots with AAA batteries placed in slots.
T. New-routing at Mega Crag X.
F. Ferry back to Holyhead. Boardroom in evening for Moonboard sesh. Tired plodding on ''6s''.
S. Drytooling sesh at Penmon.
S.

Fucking psyched.

[petejh]

Shark the blatantly foreseeable outcome is that you're going to end up sending the Oak this year by training exactly what many on here - Dave, me and others, said to do years ago - get stronger on lime crimps, and do some basic short PE/AnCap work. Which you skirted around for years. Ain't rocket surgery.

The campus board is ace and very simple to use for that Ancap workout Tommy/Barrows talks about. That sort of fitness responds so quickly when trained (YMMV). Strength doesn't. It's pretty much what I did just at the start of my redpoint sessions on Oak. 5 PE sessions, to give me the beans to complete the traverse without powering out.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7 by end of 2016


M: not much apart from a walk round the park in the cold with mates / kids
T: walk round village to get some fresh air
W: 2hrs swimming with Una - ended up in the big pool which actually involved doing a fair bit of actual swimming myself
T: Solo trip out to Shipley. Got there just in time as things were thawing / drying out. Warmed up at YMC Wall area and then headed down to Red Baron area where a couple were trying Phil's, which I haven't done. Had a few goes but felt tough, and I think I was just greasing it up so sacked it off. Went to try Parker but couldn't even pull on due to no hip flex. Got sucked into trying to repeat Vim, which I failed at.
F: Nowt. Trip to John Lewis with Una in tow where I got stuck in their car park for 45 mins trying to leave...
S: Trip to Climbing Lab with Una, where she actually climbed - at last. Went from pulling onto first hold and not wanting to do anything more to romping up to the top of the wall. Very proud Dad moment. No excitement for NYE, just a few beers on my own with music in headphones and a book.
S: Nowt. Big family meal and a load of wine and beers.


Not so fussed about not ticking on my day out, but I really, really need to stop trying to repeat stuff I've done before. It's soul-destroying.


My pre-baby arrival booze embargo is now on though, so will hopefully be full of energy, revitalised and psyched to do lots of exercise...just in time for it to all grind to a halt!

[shark]

Shark the blatantly foreseeable outcome is that you're going to end up sending the Oak this year by training exactly what many on here - Dave, me and others, said to do years ago - get stronger on lime crimps, and do some basic short PE/AnCap work. Which you skirted around for years. Ain't rocket surgery.

The campus board is ace and very simple to use for that Ancap workout Tommy/Barrows talks about. That sort of fitness responds so quickly when trained (YMMV). Strength doesn't. It's pretty much what I did just at the start of my redpoint sessions on Oak. 5 PE sessions, to give me the beans to complete the traverse without powering out.

Are you taking the credit already 

The change to a repeater fingerboard workout seems to be working well for my finger strength at the moment (except I still cant entirely shake off the swollen joints Ive had for the past few months) and I have concocted a 13move sequence on my board. Starts up my old benchmark crimp 4 move problem on the minging crusher crimps (that I used not to be able to do) then comes down the board in a couple of burly moves on large pinches and undercuts then back up on a replica of the Oak throw move. Managed it once and thereafter falling off the throw move (sounds familiar!) Plenty of scope to make it harder. Also could do the same start but finish up a gaston sequence I have been working on. Protocol: 4 attempts with 2 mins rest between attempts on each set. 3 sets with 15mins+ between each set. Gotta be more specific and fun than foot-on campusing.

The crux will be keeping this all going and doing a new job. 

[petejh]

  Sounds bang on.

Maybe do one sesh of that and one of basic foot-on to reduce repetitive move injury risk.

[Dolly]

New year and back to power club. Obvs ate and drank too much.....


M. Weights. No fucking about with core shit just pulling and lifting big bits of metal
T. Short bike ride over some of the Yorkshire wolds way which was deserted and beautiful
W.
T.
F. Roaches with Joe P. It was so long since either of us had been there we had to look in the guide to remember the way(blush). A lovely day to be out and warm enough to climb in a T shirt in the sun. Highlight of the day was Too Drunk which I loved after working out that you didnt need to mess about with a right heel, just needed to do a big pull/throw
[/size]S.
[/size]S. Gym for some gentle kettlebelling and core, I was too hungover to do anything harder [/size][size=78%] [/size]

[Murph]

Just realized I forgot to update. Don't worry though folks the psyche train is still firing on all four.

Goals
Do-able - Grit 7As
Far-fetched - Lime 8A

M-inlaws. Kettlebell swings, scapula press ups and shrugs from a tree
T-inlaws. Kettlebell, scapula, shrugs
W-driving all day with kids
T-physical assessment by monkey boy. Good news bad news.
Bad news: I am nowhere near as strong as I was/thought I was.
Good news: I've lots of weaknesses to work on.
F-shoulder prehab. Yoga. Foam rolling. Elastic bands. Christ I am the inflexiblest one. No one is as inflexible as me.
S-NYE climb at the works. Taking a hiding on murples rather than flattering the ego on easier ones. Ticked a couple. Shoulders.
S-NYD loungeathon. Kids. Shoulders. Foam rolling. Elastic bands. Going to sort those hamstrings out one way or another.

January. The best month of the year for sorting out blubber and reversing flagging mojos. I love January.

[Dolly]

Sorry dont know what happened with the rest of my post.
Went to The Roaches last Thursday where the highlight was Too Drunk.
F
S
S Gym for easy core and kettlebells -  too hungover to do much else