AnCap session - usual 2 sets attempting 200moves overall. Lattice report confirmed that I should keep focusing on fingerboard and AnCap
Quote from: shark on January 01, 2017, 06:52:58 pmAnCap session - usual 2 sets attempting 200moves overall. Lattice report confirmed that I should keep focusing on fingerboard and AnCapWhat are you doing for your AnCap workouts? 200 moves sounds like too many moves/too low intensity?
Classic AnCap structure.
3m 'high/long' at around 65 degrees.
25 x 4 moves up and down the systems board with 2 mins rest between intervals. Then 10 minutes rest with a second set. 25 moves takes 55-60 secs. Classic AnCap structure.
S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? S:
Thoughts on the ancap/ not ancap front:1. 25 moves in 55sec is very fast, even for a circuit you know well. Having a longer contraction might be useful whether that's from more foot moves, harder moves or whatever. Especially given that you're nowhere near that speed on your project.2. Ancap is a spectrum. This is the upper end of the time frame and the lower end of the work:rest ratio IMO, I.e. we're operating at the pumpy end of ancap. If it were me I'd advise doing some more stuff on shorter problems with proportionally longer rests as the strength crossover is likely to be higher and you need to get stronger. Harder moves will likely also force your moves per minute lower as talked about above. In any case, make sure you're powered out rather than pumped.
nai / barrows / tomThank you. Not for the first time it seems I have fucked up. I have been doing this routine for so long I'm unsure how I got the wrong end of the stick in the first place but I have checked Binney's guidelines and I should be doing what you all suggest.
Right. I've found what I based it on which was in Dave Binney's presentation here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/principlestraining.pdfOn page 8 it says:Level 3 Anaerobic Capacity• Following a warm up, you need to start off with a climb at regular on-sight grade, followed immediately by 2 x (4 x 25M) Rest 60s intervals, 15 min setsHowever, that doesn't entirely square with his guidance on the table on page 10