[shark]

Thanks Tom

[nai]

Not sure I'd want to do the same set of moves twice a week so I'd make two circuits if I was you (ground to horn & gastons traverse?)
Also 12 moves in 30s sounds a bit fast, reckon that'd take me 40-45 seconds unless it was very basic, bearing in mind what Tommy and Alex say about contraction times.
Agree keep it higher intensity with longer (3-4x) rest times. Make it more difficult when the time comes rather than reducing the rest.

[Nibile]

Happy New Year to all!

Mon - snatch grip trap pulls 5x10; dumbbell complex x10 + dumbbell thrusters x5 all x5, brutal.
Tue - BM new 3fingers session, plus a few 2fingers hangs, brilliant, felt progress! 30"/30" x5 overhead walk 41 kg; 30"/30" x5 shoulder walk 46 kg, very hard. Neck bridges, Mike Tyson here I come!
Wed - weights; boxing bag.
Thu - rest.
Fri - muscle snatch; dead stop clean; some board climbing. Still fucking forearms DOMS.
Sat - dumbbell complex x3; boxing bag. Brilliant last session of the year.
Sun - hill sprints x6; boxing bag. Brilliant first session of the year.

I've been a bit slack on the board front, but the last project had drained me, both physically and mentally. The BM session and the quick board session have been great though.

[abarro81]

What TB said.
Other thoughts
- I always presumed that that Binney session was a misprint!
- If you've been doing exactly the same thing for so long that you can't even remember then you need to mix it up anyway!

[Luke Owens]

Happy New Year guys!

After 2 days of eccentrics for my golfers, the pain in my elbow actually appears to have almost completely disappeared. On the flip side my forearm extensor muscles have a massive amount of  DOMS and feel like they've been savaged. Is this normal or have I pushed it too far? Cheers

M: Rest

T: Rest

W: Lunch - Few press ups, pull-ups and IYT's.

Deadhangs testing A2 injuries:

4 Finger "Open Hand, Open Crimp, Chisel, Natural" grip, 2 mins between hangs:

Large 2nd joint edge - 10 secs
LH large edge RH pad and half edge - 10 secs
RH large edge LH pad and a half edge - 10 secs
LH large edge RH pad and half edge - 10 secs

Stopped there as A2's felt "worked" but not painful, zero pain after session.

Finished with 3 x 8 secs max hangs, 3 finger open hand on a 20mm slightly incut edge, causes zero irritation to my A2's.

Finished with 2 one arm pull-ups on each arm with low waist height bar as assistance.

Eve: Boardroom - 4 x 5min on 5min off LI-Aerocap on the autobelay.

Beastmaker:
Big pockets - 3 x 10 secs (3 finger open)
35' slopers - 3 x 10 secs
Lattice test edge (20mm?) - 3 x 5 secs (3 finger open)

Attempted to campus on the big sloping grippy campus rungs, managed 1-2-2-... a few times. That thing is like my complete anti-style, campusing AND slopers...!

Campused up the system board on massive jugs, roughly referenced to campus board spacing:

1-3-5-5-8 - Leading LH
1-3-5-5-8 - Leading RH
The above x 3

Then the same as above but going again with the same hand on the first 2 moves x 2

2 x 2.5mins on (~30 moves) 5 mins rest on the Piscobloc. Aeropow territory, would be good to do a full Aeropow workout on this next week.

30 mins continuous LI-Aerocap on the autobelay

T: Lunch - 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
8 Leg raises to bar
50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Plas Power - 6 x 5 min on 5 min off LI-Aerocap

2 x (5 x 1min on 1min off HI-Aerocap) 5 min rest between sets

15 min LI-Aerocap warm-down

F: Rest - Forearms tight, elbows sore (Probably from campusing and down climbing on autobelay)

S: Rest - Forearms tight, elbows sore. Read some of Macleods "Make or Break".

S: Eccentrics (both arms):
Palms-up curls - 6 x 15 (8kg)
Pronator Teres (straight arm) - 6 x 15 (2kg)
Palms-down curls - 6 x 15 (3kg)

[36chambers]

S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? 
S:

Yes, I do. It feels like a slightly different pump to actual climbing though. I suppose I probably do more 7 on 3 off than 5/5, I cannot remember which feels pumpier at the moment, as i haven't done any in anger for ages.

I opted for 5 on 5 off because I always get too pumped doing 7 on 3 off. But they may be equally as pumpy for me.

On the 5 on 5 off I felt like my forearms had doubled in size and were close to bursting. A sensation I haven't had since I stopped sport climbing a few years back. It's interesting as I don't get this kind of intense pump even when doing 1 min on 1 min off foot-on campusing till failure.

Will probably stick to one arm max hangs, as I'm only really after pure strength.

[Palomides]

Lighter week, as expected

M - 6.8km run. Despite what the Andersons say about heavy legs, I intend to keep running at least once per week, and maybe think about a trail race or half-marathon in the spring
T - DIY Pilates session following videos. Enjoyed this and can see how it's a good mix of core/flexibility, but am very wary of continuing with videos. Some of the exercises feel like they need to be done with very good form, and it's not pratical to do a regular class. Will probably stick to DIY Yoga.
W - Lunchtime wall bouldering. Good session, made a bit of progress on a couple of problems, still limited by dodgy knee.
T - walk with kids. 11km up to the top of Mt St Baudille. nice day, good fun.
F - Easy short run. Knees surprisingly OK after walking the day before. God I sound fragile.
S - No training, unless dancing like a middle-aged fool counts.
S - Extra sleep, easy walk in the sun. No hangover, so will insist on nothing but Champagne for all social events from now on.

A good start to the year. Considering buying a fingerboard to fill in the gaps and try to bump finger strength up a level.

[duncan]

STG: Rehab. shoulder, loose 1.5kg by end of January.
MTG: RP 7b.
LTG: 7b+. E5. Tempi Moderni August 2017 + one other long, hard and free

M - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Step-ups x 20 mins. Hip and trunk exercises.
T -
W - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Step-ups x 20 mins. Hip and trunk exercises.
T - Portland with bridbeast, Mike Highbury and the retired super-alpinist. Puntering to ~6b, lovely to be out, shoulder not great. 
F -
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises. Built DIY rock rings for isolated finger training. Lifted 30kg.
S - 
M - 
T -  Finger board lifting. Half crimp and drags (30kg), pinch training.
M - 
T - 
F - Finger board lifting. Half crimp and drags (32.5kg), pinch training. Shoulder rehab. exercises.
S - Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.
S - Finger board lifting. Half crimp and drags (32.5kg), pinch training. Shoulder rehab. exercises. Hip and trunk exercises.


Shoulder less sore through rest. My DIY rock rings seem to be doing something and the shoulder is tolerating this so far. Poorly over Christmas, even less active than usual, blew out a first date (sorry Ed. if you read here), but I lost a little weight! 

Plan: work on the finger strength in isolation, easy rehab. climbing  / aerocap, hammer the shoulder rehab.

[T_B]

M - 6.8km run. Despite what the Andersons say about heavy legs, I intend to keep running at least once per week, and maybe think about a trail race or half-marathon in the spring

Go for it. My average weight for 2016 was approx a kilo heavier than in 2014 and 2015 having run 900Km in 2016 compared to not running at all really in the preceding two years. I am a big build, so have undoubtedly put muscle on my legs. I'll take the 1.1% increase. Compared to previous years I have not dieted all year. On reflection, I think I've been eating more than I have had to to fuel the activity (paranoia over 'bonking' on runs and general ethos from nutritionist, Rebecca Dent, who reckons climbers don't eat enough). The bigger 'issue' might be trying to balance training for running and training for climbing. I'm finding competing ambitions quite difficult.

[Duma]

Goals:
Good winter bouldering season,
8A (Hunters Roof? Full Power?)and 8b by next June
In shape for SA next summer.

Body Audit: Shoulder complaining quietly, bit annoyed as thought 3 day week and 2 long weekends might have been improved.
Sleep: Plenty this week, unsuprisingly. Still woken about 4 and struggled to drop off again a couple of times though.

M: nowt, drive back from Cornwall.(7.5~hrs)
T: TCA aft, finished the last black from the December comp, and went back on last white (roof) for first time in a couple of weeks - felt fine from standing and ok from sitting to crux (10th move) but not very close to holding that tbh. Felt much better than first time I tried it though, so positive. (~6.5hrs)
W: TCA eve, just stripping to give the boys a head start with the reset next day. Did 147 on the way out first go though. (~7.5hrs)
T: TCA eve, Play on new greens (6's) and more efforts on the white in the roof, still getting to crux fine, but feeling further from holding it. (~6.5hrs)
F: TCA eve, decent session on greens and as close as possible to the white roof - dropped after matching finish, but not quite in control. (~7.5hrs)
S: nowt, out on tiles in eve (~few hrs)
S: sleep, doze in bed, eat massive roast, doze in front of telly (~many hrs)

70kg.

[shark]

S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? 
S:

Yes, I do. It feels like a slightly different pump to actual climbing though. I suppose I probably do more 7 on 3 off than 5/5, I cannot remember which feels pumpier at the moment, as i haven't done any in anger for ages.

I opted for 5 on 5 off because I always get too pumped doing 7 on 3 off. But they may be equally as pumpy for me.

On the 5 on 5 off I felt like my forearms had doubled in size and were close to bursting. A sensation I haven't had since I stopped sport climbing a few years back. It's interesting as I don't get this kind of intense pump even when doing 1 min on 1 min off foot-on campusing till failure.

Will probably stick to one arm max hangs, as I'm only really after pure strength.

So this is the Crusher 5 sets of 5 secs on 5secs off with 5 mins off between sets? If so, no I dont get drastically pumped - I certainly don't fail due to being pumped - my fingers just tend to collapse if doing a half crimp session or slide off if doing a drag/chisel session. If we are doing the same thing I don't know what this says about me or you.

Currently I am doing doing the sets pyramid style and am currently up to doing Set 1 on 14mm edge Set 2 on 13mm edge Set 3 on 12mm edge Set 4 on 13mm edge Set 5 on 14mm edge. With the half crimps this is bodyweight only and with drags it is with +7.5kgs.     

[abarro81]

I've heard that Rebecca Dent advice before. Let's just say I'm hugely sceptical unless she means people should be cycling their weight up and down more than she thinks most climbers do.

[measles23]

71kg

M- Rest
T- Big Rock at Milton Keynes: Hopped up a few routes up to F6c with Alison and the boy; played on their cool looking 45 board for half an hour or so.. Bizarrely while we were there someone else suffered an identical open tib/fib fracture to mine; Alison's now doing a literature search to see if pattern of injury has changed as matting has got thicker (in the 90s the vast majority were ankle fractures)..
W- Rest
T- Rest
F- Rest
S- BM2k max hangs small rungs: 11sets up to +55kg x 4s both open crimp and full crimp
S- North West Face at Warrington (only wall open in a 50 mile radius): hopped up a few routes and handful of probs up to V4.
Sharkathon 30 min on exercise bike..

[36chambers]

S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? 
S:

Yes, I do. It feels like a slightly different pump to actual climbing though. I suppose I probably do more 7 on 3 off than 5/5, I cannot remember which feels pumpier at the moment, as i haven't done any in anger for ages.

I opted for 5 on 5 off because I always get too pumped doing 7 on 3 off. But they may be equally as pumpy for me.

On the 5 on 5 off I felt like my forearms had doubled in size and were close to bursting. A sensation I haven't had since I stopped sport climbing a few years back. It's interesting as I don't get this kind of intense pump even when doing 1 min on 1 min off foot-on campusing till failure.

Will probably stick to one arm max hangs, as I'm only really after pure strength.

So this is the Crusher 5 sets of 5 secs on 5secs off with 5 mins off between sets? If so, no I dont get drastically pumped - I certainly don't fail due to being pumped - my fingers just tend to collapse if doing a half crimp session or slide off if doing a drag/chisel session. If we are doing the same thing I don't know what this says about me or you.

I wasn't following any protocol, but I was using 2:30 rests, which felt okay at the time but may have been the problem. Will try again with a longer rest and see if it helps. 

[Sasquatch]

M-Rest
T-Routes in PM
W-Boulder  - Easy Session
T-Moonboard - Hard session
F-Touring Ski - 4 hours
S-Skate Ski 15K -1 hr
S-Moonboard - hard session

Good week - felt pretty good on routes, but no real stamina for a long session.  Felt good on the moonboard as well. 

[petejh]

STG: Secret winter goal - first need a winter. Send exisitng projs at Crag X, G.Orme, Gideon.
MTG: first 8b+ (Mecca), spring. Develop routes at Mega Crag X. Send proj on L.Orme.
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Two-week catch-up.

M. MA. Core/mobe sesh.
T. Fingerboard sesh: reduced size of the BM2K large slots by placing AAA batteries in slots to make them approx size of the bottom middle rung but not incut. 5 x 10secs with 8kg.
W. MA. Core/mobe sesh.
T. Moonboard sesh. Attempting some 7Bs.
F. Drytool power-endurance sesh on 'HomeTrainer^TM': 5 x 3mins on axes through rope loops in attic opening. One hand/one foot allowed. 6 lockoffs and 3 pull-ups per min, while stood one-footed in big boots on wobbly upturned large pepsi cup.
S.MA. Kettlebell sesh.
S. 

M. MA. Ferry to Dublin with extra new-routing gear in van.
T. New-routing at Mega Crag X.
W. New-routing at Mega Crag X. Fingerboard in pm: 5 x 10secs with 10kg on BM2k large slots with AAA batteries placed in slots.
T. New-routing at Mega Crag X.
F. Ferry back to Holyhead. Boardroom in evening for Moonboard sesh. Tired plodding on ''6s''.
S. Drytooling sesh at Penmon.
S.

Fucking psyched.

[petejh]

Shark the blatantly foreseeable outcome is that you're going to end up sending the Oak this year by training exactly what many on here - Dave, me and others, said to do years ago - get stronger on lime crimps, and do some basic short PE/AnCap work. Which you skirted around for years. Ain't rocket surgery.

The campus board is ace and very simple to use for that Ancap workout Tommy/Barrows talks about. That sort of fitness responds so quickly when trained (YMMV). Strength doesn't. It's pretty much what I did just at the start of my redpoint sessions on Oak. 5 PE sessions, to give me the beans to complete the traverse without powering out.

[tommytwotone]

Goal: Font 7 by end of 2016


M: not much apart from a walk round the park in the cold with mates / kids
T: walk round village to get some fresh air
W: 2hrs swimming with Una - ended up in the big pool which actually involved doing a fair bit of actual swimming myself
T: Solo trip out to Shipley. Got there just in time as things were thawing / drying out. Warmed up at YMC Wall area and then headed down to Red Baron area where a couple were trying Phil's, which I haven't done. Had a few goes but felt tough, and I think I was just greasing it up so sacked it off. Went to try Parker but couldn't even pull on due to no hip flex. Got sucked into trying to repeat Vim, which I failed at.
F: Nowt. Trip to John Lewis with Una in tow where I got stuck in their car park for 45 mins trying to leave...
S: Trip to Climbing Lab with Una, where she actually climbed - at last. Went from pulling onto first hold and not wanting to do anything more to romping up to the top of the wall. Very proud Dad moment. No excitement for NYE, just a few beers on my own with music in headphones and a book.
S: Nowt. Big family meal and a load of wine and beers.


Not so fussed about not ticking on my day out, but I really, really need to stop trying to repeat stuff I've done before. It's soul-destroying.


My pre-baby arrival booze embargo is now on though, so will hopefully be full of energy, revitalised and psyched to do lots of exercise...just in time for it to all grind to a halt!

[shark]

Shark the blatantly foreseeable outcome is that you're going to end up sending the Oak this year by training exactly what many on here - Dave, me and others, said to do years ago - get stronger on lime crimps, and do some basic short PE/AnCap work. Which you skirted around for years. Ain't rocket surgery.

The campus board is ace and very simple to use for that Ancap workout Tommy/Barrows talks about. That sort of fitness responds so quickly when trained (YMMV). Strength doesn't. It's pretty much what I did just at the start of my redpoint sessions on Oak. 5 PE sessions, to give me the beans to complete the traverse without powering out.

Are you taking the credit already 

The change to a repeater fingerboard workout seems to be working well for my finger strength at the moment (except I still cant entirely shake off the swollen joints Ive had for the past few months) and I have concocted a 13move sequence on my board. Starts up my old benchmark crimp 4 move problem on the minging crusher crimps (that I used not to be able to do) then comes down the board in a couple of burly moves on large pinches and undercuts then back up on a replica of the Oak throw move. Managed it once and thereafter falling off the throw move (sounds familiar!) Plenty of scope to make it harder. Also could do the same start but finish up a gaston sequence I have been working on. Protocol: 4 attempts with 2 mins rest between attempts on each set. 3 sets with 15mins+ between each set. Gotta be more specific and fun than foot-on campusing.

The crux will be keeping this all going and doing a new job. 

[petejh]

  Sounds bang on.

Maybe do one sesh of that and one of basic foot-on to reduce repetitive move injury risk.

[Dolly]

New year and back to power club. Obvs ate and drank too much.....


M. Weights. No fucking about with core shit just pulling and lifting big bits of metal
T. Short bike ride over some of the Yorkshire wolds way which was deserted and beautiful
W.
T.
F. Roaches with Joe P. It was so long since either of us had been there we had to look in the guide to remember the way(blush). A lovely day to be out and warm enough to climb in a T shirt in the sun. Highlight of the day was Too Drunk which I loved after working out that you didnt need to mess about with a right heel, just needed to do a big pull/throw
[/size]S.
[/size]S. Gym for some gentle kettlebelling and core, I was too hungover to do anything harder [/size][size=78%] [/size]

[Murph]

Just realized I forgot to update. Don't worry though folks the psyche train is still firing on all four.

Goals
Do-able - Grit 7As
Far-fetched - Lime 8A

M-inlaws. Kettlebell swings, scapula press ups and shrugs from a tree
T-inlaws. Kettlebell, scapula, shrugs
W-driving all day with kids
T-physical assessment by monkey boy. Good news bad news.
Bad news: I am nowhere near as strong as I was/thought I was.
Good news: I've lots of weaknesses to work on.
F-shoulder prehab. Yoga. Foam rolling. Elastic bands. Christ I am the inflexiblest one. No one is as inflexible as me.
S-NYE climb at the works. Taking a hiding on murples rather than flattering the ego on easier ones. Ticked a couple. Shoulders.
S-NYD loungeathon. Kids. Shoulders. Foam rolling. Elastic bands. Going to sort those hamstrings out one way or another.

January. The best month of the year for sorting out blubber and reversing flagging mojos. I love January.

[Dolly]

Sorry dont know what happened with the rest of my post.
Went to The Roaches last Thursday where the highlight was Too Drunk.
F
S
S Gym for easy core and kettlebells -  too hungover to do much else