[tomtom]

Happy new year!

M: Norfolk

Tu: Drive back from Norfolk. TT Jnr managed to only scream for 40% of the 5 hour journey

We: Grit day Off to Curbar - full of hope, low temps, overcast.. but, Trackside boulder felt a bit spoogy - and though psyche was high, I didnt really get very far on Sidetrack. No end of brushing/thwacking etc.. seemed to improve conditions. Gave up... Wandered up to bad landing to continue working La Muse. Did the throw at the end of the traverse first time! And again - then started to run out of skin (that arete hold has some shark crystals..). Still, progress...

Th: Drive up to Kendal to see the folks and show off grandson etc.. Got a 5:10 knee pad as an xmas present. Result!

Fr: Burbage afternoon -got to remergence about 2:30 - pleasant in the sun, but really surprisingly grippy (enough of a wind). Plan was to warm up and wait for temps/sun to drop then NAIL Blind Date. Ended up trying it before temps dropped, but it felt EASY (well starting on the sloper and crimp and heading up etc..). Sadly, the first move is still a bit of a lottery for me getting the dimple in the sloper (lh) just right seemed to cause me problems. Still, conditions were good enough that one go I had it all wrong but pushed through and my LF spooned off when I had both slots (grr). Then ran out of skin/beans. It a funny one - I was SURE I was going to get it, but getting my left foot on seemed to stop working - which I can only assume is a core thing... Anyway, carried on working away on Blind Ali - there may be a beta request on that soon...

Sa: Rest. Steak for dinner, friends popped around on their way out to some 'celebrity' dinner or other, and some neighbours came over about 9:30 and we drank/ate/saw in the new year/slagged off Jools Holland etc...

Su: Managed to avoid a minging hangover (just). Pub lunch. May do some deadhangs if I feel like it later...

Anyone out tomorrow AM?

[fried]

Happy new year all!

M- Rest
Tu - Slept terribly previous two nights due to sick missus, but met up with Kelvin and his very tall friend at Sabots, very strange conditions, almost couldn't hold anything, not sure what that was about, nice to have a natter anyway. Climbed a yellow and an orange. Did some guiding work. Absolutely beautiful in the forest.

W - Indoors 2h
Th - rest
Fr - Indoors 2h working new steep stuff
Sa - Eat and drank too much
Su - Failed Sharkathon on the first day by refusing to get out of bed. Starts the 2nd, non?

[shark]

Still time for a 30min jog

[fried]

jog on

[shark]

Happy New Year 

11.4-6

M. AM Quick dash out to Stanage. Cold and windy. Soloed Via Media VS with numb fingers and then Hargeaves Original VS - always a privelege. Backed off Queersville HVS.

T.  PM  Went down Foundry with a view to doing a bit of bouldering before going on systems board but ended up spending 4 hours bouldering mainly with Keith.  No progress on white and black spots. Did the gastons problem on the woodie. Worked a couple of the moves on the pink and black spotty on steep bit.

W. AM Coaxed out by 8bMark. Arranged to meet at Frogatt layby at 10,30. Drove out of S10 in blue skies and then into horrid clag by the time I reached Ringinglow. Persuaded Mark to try Rivelin. Drove back to S10 and sunshine and out again to Rivelin. No other climbers. Unlocked a tricky 6B+ wall (Where Bulldykes Darent) eventually and I repeated it just to show Mark how it was done  Then on the excellent Acid Reign where it was Marks turn to find the right sequence and I got it next go. Wandered across to Purple Haze 7A+. Burly. I couldnt get the high crimp though overshot it once but looking at vids later I was going with the wrong hand anyway. Mark made several big but unsuccessful efforts to link it. We then drove back to my place for a cuppa (5minutes drive away!). I think Mark was fairly appalled that I lived so close and had never bouldered there. I think I had avoided it because I thought the bouldering was all obscure, green and with bad landings which definitely wasn't the case on the stuff we saw and tried, Definitely going back - especially when weather worse in Peak

T. Beautiful day. Shame not to go out Systems board. New PB on throws. Feeling good on Gastons too. Eve Systems board. AnCap session. Poor scores.

F. More leaf shifting in garden then 5 mile walk round White Edge and Curbar/Froggatt with family. Late PM Forced myself to do a FB sess. Despite low expectations and weighing heavy added 2.5kgs and managed the 5x5 repeater set on drags/chisels. Finished with fingerrolls and 3 succesive deadlifts at 110kg

S. Noon. Popped into office to fix a toilet cistern with my bro. Snuck in an AnCap session - usual 2 sets attempting 200moves overall. Scores better than thurs but still off PB of two weeks ago though I am 2/3 lbs heavier

S. PM. Went to Foundry. Shut. Drove to office. Systems board AeroCap 20/10's - 3 sets =360moves

Lattice report confirmed that I should keep focusing on fingerboard and AnCap

[Muenchener]

STG: Get to the top of a moonboard by any means whatsoever: postponed. Focus on ancap training now for the spring sport season / arrange early spring Spain trip
MTG (Spring 2017): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

Between The Years

M: An hour on the bike to & from Boulderwelt in order to use their gym for:
   An hour general strength training centered around this kettlebell shoulder routine, plus offset pullups and trx planks. Particularly liked the armbars and windmills from the kb routine, stabilising the kettlebell overhead in chest-opening positions seemed like a good idea.
T:   Wall, Thalkirchen, eleven routes. Felt dreadful on the first few, but it seems I was just warming up slowly because I then proceeded to onsight a 6b+ and two 6b's. This would be a decent indoor routes sesh for me at any time, let alone when I've scarcely done any endurance work for three months. Encouraging.
W:
T: Boulderwelt with M jnr & friend. Feeble attempts to boulder - not recovered from routes on Tuesday? The actually valuable part of the evening was probably after Frau M took the boys home and I did a dozen aerocap circuit intervals (boring, painful) and half an hour kettlebell shoulder routine & trx planks.
   Two hours bike home -> work -> boulderwelt -> home
F:
S: Wall, Thalkirchen 2 x 20 ARC. Quick pre-party training session to round the year off.
S: Wall, Thalkirchen. An hour fingery-bouldering-with-a-hangover for strength maintenance, preceded & followed by 20 minutes ARC warm up & warm down

[nai]

AnCap session - usual 2 sets attempting 200moves overall.

Lattice report confirmed that I should keep focusing on fingerboard and AnCap

What are you doing for your AnCap workouts? 200 moves sounds like too many moves/too low intensity?

[36chambers]

M: Earl Crag. Parked up and the car almost blew away. Somehow made it to the crag but there wasn't a chance in hell my pads would stay put once I started climbing. No climbing was done.
T: Earl Crag. No wind, slightly muggy. Found 5 different ways to fall on the same move on Lager Lager Lager 7C. I'm not sure I'll ever figure out this problem
W:
T: Caley. Quick, subpar, session on Zoo York. Had 3 goes on Crystal Method 7B+ and got to a new highpoint. One day I'll catch it with its guard down. 
F: Almscliff. Repeated Dreamland, Stu's Left and the usual circuit. Nice to climb in the sun.
S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? 
S:

[nai]

Happy New Year y'all

goal - fix neck, resume full training

Mon - Another day trapped in the rellies house by the filthy Scottish weather. Becoming totally stir crazy

Tue - drive home. Back fucked but neck feels ok

Wed - perfect grit connies, so a family walk over Baslow & Curbar featuring 2 reluctant kids and a reluctant dad, got to watch folk climbing and discussing epic connies.
 
Hour on the board late afternoon, bit rushed, very hard to get going after six days off, might have pushed too hard too soon.
Shoulder Weights/rehab
30 minutes yoga in the evening.

Thu - walked Mam Tor ridge with family.  Epic sunset scenes.
2x10 mins LI AeroCap on campus board. Couldn't be arsed with a 3rd set
Noticed soreness at base of LH middle finger - A0? See Tuesday

Neck no longer ok...

Fri - nowt/sulking

S - HI AeroCap - usually manage 1 set of 10x1min. Was blowing out of my arse by rep 5, failed rep 7, just managed 8 but too pumped to pull on to start 9.
Shoulder weights/rehab

S - nowt

[T_B]

M - Boxing Day run. Got paced round what I thought would be a flat 10k but it wasn't quite 10k. Interesting running on the flat.
T - Works pm. Late, short sess after drive back from Norfolk. Heavy but not totally rubbish on the Motherboard.
W - building Sheffield's steepest board in garage. 3m 'high/long' at around 65 degrees.
T - as above
F - Foundry pm. Good wave session then some pull ups.
S - snuck in a repeaters sess. Felt good on 2 x 6 x 7 front and back 3 with 2mins30secs rest, then 1 x 6 x 7 half crimp.
S -

Phase 1 of the board is complete (minus holds). Phase 1 is her board. Everyone who looked at it on NYE were thinking wtf, but what can I say,  she likes roofs. Phase 2 will be a 20 degree circuits board, so not that steep but probably more like the angle you climb on 'in real life' as my 3 year old might say.

[shark]

AnCap session - usual 2 sets attempting 200moves overall.

Lattice report confirmed that I should keep focusing on fingerboard and AnCap

What are you doing for your AnCap workouts? 200 moves sounds like too many moves/too low intensity?

25 x 4 moves up and down the systems board with 2 mins rest between intervals. Then 10 minutes rest with a second set. 25 moves takes 55-60 secs. Classic AnCap structure.

[nai]

Classic AnCap structure.

You sure?

I'd say doing sets of 4 reps of a 12 move/45s circuit on a 40+ board with nominal difficulty of 4-5 grades below your max was Classic AnCap structure and that what you're doing is a bit makeshift.

[dave]

3m 'high/long' at around 65 degrees.

That's too much, even if you're measuring that in Fahrenheit.

[T_B]

25 x 4 moves up and down the systems board with 2 mins rest between intervals. Then 10 minutes rest with a second set. 25 moves takes 55-60 secs. Classic AnCap structure.

I'm not qualified to say that's not AnCap, but that doesn't sound like AnCap!

I thought AnCap was 12 to 14 frickin nails moves. Which is why you get strong at bearing down through crux sequences even when pumped. 25 moves is plodding (AKA AeroPow).

[webbo]

Mon. Board did a project from last week, couldn't do its mirror though.
Tue. Bike 63.64 miles 3hrs 43 mins.
Wed. Nothing.
Thu. Nothing
Fri. Board tried project from Monday a few times a bit closer. Repeated some problems from this time last year, flashed them. Turbo 40 mins 1 min on 1 off x 10 plus warm up and down
Sat. Board did a project I was trying in September and October 2nd go. Still not getting other project, flashed 4 problems from last January.
Sun. Bike 37.78 miles 2 hr 28 mins hilly and very windy got rained on, hailed and sleeted on.

[abarro81]

Thoughts on the ancap/ not ancap front:
1. 25 moves in 55sec is very fast, even for a circuit you know well. Having a longer contraction might be useful whether that's from more foot moves, harder moves or whatever. Especially given that you're nowhere near that speed on your project.
2. Ancap is a spectrum. This is the upper end of the time frame and the lower end of the work:rest ratio IMO, I.e. we're operating at the pumpy end of ancap. If it were me I'd advise doing some more stuff on shorter problems with proportionally longer rests as the strength crossover is likely to be higher and you need to get stronger. Harder moves will likely also force your moves per minute lower as talked about above. In any case, make sure you're powered out rather than pumped.

[shark]

nai / barrows / tom

Thank you. Not for the first time it seems I have fucked up. I have been doing this routine for so long I'm unsure how I got the wrong end of the stick in the first place but I have checked Binney's guidelines and I should be doing what you all suggest.

 

[TobyD]

S: Fingerboard. 5 sets of 6 x (5 on, 5 off) on the BM2K smallest edges. Boxed out of my mind. Doe anyone else get ridiculously pumped doing repeaters? 
S:

Yes, I do. It feels like a slightly different pump to actual climbing though. I suppose I probably do more 7 on 3 off than 5/5, I cannot remember which feels pumpier at the moment, as i haven't done any in anger for ages.

[Tommy]

Thoughts on the ancap/ not ancap front:
1. 25 moves in 55sec is very fast, even for a circuit you know well. Having a longer contraction might be useful whether that's from more foot moves, harder moves or whatever. Especially given that you're nowhere near that speed on your project.
2. Ancap is a spectrum. This is the upper end of the time frame and the lower end of the work:rest ratio IMO, I.e. we're operating at the pumpy end of ancap. If it were me I'd advise doing some more stuff on shorter problems with proportionally longer rests as the strength crossover is likely to be higher and you need to get stronger. Harder moves will likely also force your moves per minute lower as talked about above. In any case, make sure you're powered out rather than pumped.

1. Totally agree. The contraction ratio is actually quite important. The longer and more intensely you contract the muscle the greater the stress to the anaerobic pathway = ultimately you want lactate production rate to go up. (If that goes up = more ATP from the pyruvate<-->lactate redox if you want to be geeky).

2. Deffo aim for power out not pumped.

Simon, if you want basic style AnCap in a system style then a campus board is a pretty easy way to do it and I suspect much closer to the intensity that you want.... but I could be totally missing that you're doing it all on undercuts or something in case case, carry on as you are! :-)

[TobyD]

Mon 20 minutes turbo early morning, 33 mile ride in beautiful sunshine
Tue 30 minutes turbo early morning; 20 minutes turbo
Wed 20 minutes turbo early morning; gym; 20 mile ride
Thu 30 minutes turbo early morning; gym
Fri 20 minute turbo early morning, gym.
Sat 30 minute turbo early morning; 20 minute turbo; few pull ups and bit of core.
Sun 30 minute turbo early morning; got a train to Sheffield.

Pretty psyched to manage a few pull ups |(sets of all of 3...), having not been able to engage shoulders to start one pull up a couple of  months ago. Feeling fit (for me!) on a bike too. Going to be challenging trying to get any training in at the moment, as being not allowed to drive, and working in Bakewell is going to be a tricky commute. Likely to end up walking a lot I guess.

[shark]

nai / barrows / tom

Thank you. Not for the first time it seems I have fucked up. I have been doing this routine for so long I'm unsure how I got the wrong end of the stick in the first place but I have checked Binney's guidelines and I should be doing what you all suggest.

 

Right. I've found what I based it on which was in Dave Binney's presentation here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/principlestraining.pdf

On page 8 it says:

Level 3 Anaerobic Capacity
• Following a warm up, you need to start off with a climb at regular on-sight grade, followed immediately by 2 x (4 x 25M) Rest 60s intervals, 15 min sets

However, that doesn't entirely square with his guidance on the table on page 10

[moose]

Perhaps I am an overly simple man, dining at a table too rich for my tastes, but it seems Shark that you might be best reducing this to basics.  If you are too weak, get strong: hard bouldering that makes you move fast: training boards with shit footholds (personally I am loving the Depot 30 degree) and sessions of limestone bouldering. 

Take the traditional approach: get strong over winter, build fitness over Spring.  Maybe do a few quality easier routes, classic 7c+ to 8a/+s, to build psyche and strength before settling in for grinding the Oak, rather than just getting straight into the Oak with no memory of what it feels like to clip a belay.  Get ready to crush in Autumn or late Spring / Summer evenings.   (Mis)interpreting energy systems and trying to "science it" just seems like unnecessary overcomplication.

[Tommy]

Right. I've found what I based it on which was in Dave Binney's presentation here: http://ukbouldering.com/media/pdf/principlestraining.pdf

On page 8 it says:

Level 3 Anaerobic Capacity
• Following a warm up, you need to start off with a climb at regular on-sight grade, followed immediately by 2 x (4 x 25M) Rest 60s intervals, 15 min sets

However, that doesn't entirely square with his guidance on the table on page 10

Yup you're quite right.... I nearly wrote what I'm about to write in the comment above but then decided against it (as I wasn't sure if I was second guessing you) Fundamentally I disagree with this session guidance and I've raised it with Dave - he's pointed out that he took it from a text book and was trying to best interpret some tables but hadn't tried it out himself. This is one of the good things about coaches getting to meet up and discuss as that they know the context of how and why a session was put together. Previously I would have blindly followed it, but I'd not realised until I chatted to Dave about it, that it was a theoretical session and not yet tried out. It's good we have the forums as a second measure, although I do wish more coaches would contribute to this stuff as I find it really interesting.

[shark]

Feeling annoyed about this,  but ultimately my fault for not digging further.

Probably explains why my AnCap is shit but AeroCap is ok.

I'll sort out alternative routines this week probably with Oak moves incorporated.

What rest interval between attempts and time per move should I be working around?

[T_B]

Alex describes it as 12-15 moves (30-50 seconds climbing time). Rest 2-4 times climbing time.

I would have thought you should be focussing on the lower end of moves / max rest time I.e. 12 really intense moves taking approx 30 secs where you need 2 mins to recover.