Can't believe that some of the tossers on uKc were giving him stick for his Yosemite efforts. Did people really expect him to onsight The Nose and just piss up Dawn Wall? DW took the best granite climber in the world 7 years, The Nose has got two horrendous pitches that would be a miracle to do first go even for the best climber in the world. Throw in to the mix big wall logistical puntery. He's thrown himself at them all head first and just gone for it all out with a great attitude. Respect to the man.
I can sympathise as I don't particularly like the idea of him waltzing up what others have put their life's work into
In terms of Ondra's super impressive list of achievements I think this is largely noteworthy and laudable based on his "just go and give it a go" approach. Reports of him nearly onsighting the Nose are ridiculous. The only really hard pitches on the Nose are the Great Roof and Changing Corners (neither of which he came close to onsighting). To put it in perspective, assuming he did the Jardine Traverse then he actually onsighted 3 pitches of 5.12 and about 5 pitches of 5.11. The rest is 5.10 and easier. Not knocking him, but it's not even remotely close to an onsight of the Nose.
Its been flashed by Pete Whittaker and Cedric Lachat, although Cedric had a 10 day rest after climbing the first 10 pitches.
Going on very tight ethics its still to play for but I'd give it to P-whiddy?
After 4 days of work on this 8b+ pitch, I can barely do the 7 hard meters with one hang in the middle, and only a few moves when it's too hot.
this thread drives home two points to me: (1) Ondra a proper enthusiast as well as supremely talented. I find his ad hoc approach really endearing. ... He is one of the few elite achievers in any discipline I can readily picture puntering along in his old age just for the sheer love of it (maybe with far more screaming than most though).
Yuji
Some people are so engulfed by the cult of mediocrity and laziness, that to see someone constantly operating at the maximum level, constantly seeking personal improvement, is a true pain. That's why they are so happy and quick to point out what they think are failures or underachievements.
engulfed by the cult of mediocrity and laziness
I don't think he freed the CC.