[petejh]

I'm struggling to understand what you are trying to convey.

It doesn't matter Siri.

Sarcastic mainly, with a small dash of truth.

[tomtom]

On topic please, or I'll start posting about Brexit [emoji22]

[slackline]

Here was my thinking it was cynicism.   

[dave]

Just climb faster.

[tomtom]

Or train on an overhanging board.

[DAVETHOMAS90]

Sorry, I don't like the way people throw the word "ego" around.

Ondra has plenty of ego, just mostly more secure and functional than insecure and dysfunctional.

[kelvin]

So what's he up to tonight? Beers in Camp 4 or feeding his ego?

[fried]

Making love with his eagle

[user deactivated]

The ego has landed?

[tomtom]

Making love with his eagle

That seems to bring up thoughts of Harry Potter.

Hmm... [emoji22]

[duncan]

So what's he up to tonight? Beers in Camp 4 or feeding his ego?

On pitch 15:
https://instagram.com/p/BL0HLnjBTdH/

Rock and Ice summarises his progress.

[jfdm]

Sorry, I don't like the way people throw the word "ego" around.

Ondra has plenty of ego, just mostly more secure and functional than insecure and dysfunctional.

Dave, Dawn wall should be renamed "Where Egos Dare."

[kelvin]

So what's he up to tonight? Beers in Camp 4 or feeding his ego?

On pitch 15:
https://instagram.com/p/BL0HLnjBTdH/

Rock and Ice summarises his progress.

Cheers Duncan - I'll have beer for him.

[lagerstarfish]

I dare say that petejh was being sarcastic.

bloody Euros, coming over here and stealing our understanding of the English language

 

[jfdm]

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item/70760/early_days_on_the_dawn_wall_for_ondra
In his own words describing what he is doing.

[ferret]

Taken from the BD facebook:

Update: Ondra To Rest Up for the Nose
“Yesterday was another day on the Dawn Wall. We had our fixed-lines on the top of pitch 10 and we wanted to move as high as possible. But we would face some of the crux pitches of the whole climb. Fortunately, the pitches were better protected and it was not such a big problem to climb through the next five pitches, including the crux traverses. I would like to emphasize that I am not free climbing everything yet. The goal right now is only to go ground-up to the top, free-climbing and using a little bit of aid climbing, to fix the whole line with ropes and start working on the pitches properly to have them ready for the final free push later. So if the crux is around the protection, I just touch the holds to see how the sequence would be and continue. The first crux-pitch looked definitely super hard to free climb. Almost impossible. I will have to take a look at all these razorblades more closely.
“Finally, already in the dark, I was pushing through pitch 16 (Dyno Pitch), but I was stopped by the final bold section of the route, where I felt I needed the light for climbing this tiny layback high above bad protection. So we just called it a day and went down back to Camp 4. Now it’s two days of rest to heal my skin and I will try the Nose.”
–BD Ambassador Adam Ondra, Oct. 21, 2016.
www.facebook.com/blackdiamondequipment/?fref=ts

[duncan]

There are now ropes to near the end of pitch 16 and reports suggest he's intending to fix more of it. Sounds like he forgot to bring a portaledge! Teams attempting Mescalito might not be so impressed with in-situ lines up half their route.

It's rainy this week and yesterday's ascent of The Nose sounds like it was hard work, slower than expected, and didn't go entirely free. "Adam finished the route around midnight and actually had to bivouac on his way down - it was too dangerous to walk down in the rain and dark."

Over on the west side, Jorg Verhoeven is trying the unrepeated Dihedral Wall (8b+) and Robbie Phillips is making good progress on the PreMuir (8b), both would be highly newsworthy in any other Yosemite season.

[duncan]

From BD fB page: "Yesterday was probably the longest climbing day of my life. We went with my dad up on The Nose, wanting to free it in a day. We started at first light and up to the Great Roof it was going well, onsighting all of the pitches in a few hours. But the Great Roof shut me down. I had a pretty good flash go, got the beta, lowered and gave it a second shot thinking I would fire it off easily, but I had not realized how important the feet are on this climb. After climbing so many pitches and taking no rest after my flash, they went super shaky and weak. I fell, gave it even a third go and fell in the end of the traverse. There was no point in giving it more tries and we just wanted to top out. Time to switch to night climbing and onsighting all of the pitches except for Changing Corner, topping out at midnight in the starting rain. Full alpine experience, as we did not find the descent route in the pissing rain, and had a wet and cold bivy in the little cave, before we finally got to the car at 9 a.m. The Nose is one of the most famous climbs in the world and I am super glad to have climbed it with my dad, even though not free. A big day out.”

So all pitches bar two onsighted, in a day, after a week in the Valley. The ridiculous thing is, by his standards, this will be classed as a failure. I bet his dad is made up too.

[petejh]

Incredible 

[galpinos]

So all pitches bar two onsighted, in a day, after a week in the Valley. The ridiculous thing is, by his standards, this will be classed as a failure. I bet his dad is made up too.

Holy f**k! I am loving the general big wall punter vibe he seems to have, jumaring with a grigri, no portaledge etc. whilst still doing the nose, nearly totally fee, mostly onsight, in a day.

(Did he manage to free the changing corners pitch? I couldn't work it out)

[ghisino]

east ledges "onsight" at night in the rain doesn't sound cool...

[SA Chris]

Making love with his eagle

http://www.amiright.com/misheard/song/ziggystardust.shtml

Like a leopard messiah?

[SA Chris]

Did he manage to free the changing corners pitch? I couldn't work it out

Sounds like he had a crack at onsighting it, failed and then just got up and off?

[Nails]

In terms of Ondra's super impressive list of achievements I think this is largely noteworthy and laudable based on his "just go and give it a go" approach. Reports of him nearly onsighting the Nose are ridiculous. The only really hard pitches on the Nose are the Great Roof and Changing Corners (neither of which he came close to onsighting). To put it in perspective, assuming he did the Jardine Traverse then he actually onsighted 3 pitches of 5.12 and about 5 pitches of 5.11. The rest is 5.10 and easier. Not knocking him, but it's not even remotely close to an onsight of the Nose.

[duncan]

Back up on Dawn Wall:

“Another day in the office. We hauled up and set up the portaledge on the Dawn Wall yesterday. I got to the top of pitch 16, and worked the moves of pitches 14, 15 and 16 ‘til late night. These are three of the hardest pitches on the whole climb, and on every pitch I missed one little piece of the puzzle. But with better skin and colder conditions (which are on the way), I will hopefully have these pitches super wired soon.

“Pitch 14 [5.14d] has this really mysterious last boulder problem—seemingly blank—but offers a few razorblade crimps that are just horrible. The previous boulder problems on this pitch felt very good. Pitch 15 [5.14d] has this really small razorblade that I did not want to pull, since in the warm conditions I would cut my skin open. The rest of the pitch felt good. Pitch 16 [5.14c] has this crazy dyno that definitely felt hard. I did not do the single move, but there is always an option to make the loop variation. The rest of the pitch is tricky and insecure but I found my way.

“For the next few days I think I will work on these three pitches if the weather allows.”

(From Sponsors FB page)

https://instagram.com/p/BMDJ2WVhqgK/