[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Again all bar 3. Lever and light fingerboard after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Made own problems. Some hard stuff. Lots of lever stuff, campus and fingerboard after.
F: Rest
S: Jannali, Bonnet Bay and 9 Degrees.
Jannali, back here to try the original Wish You Were Here V8. First decent conditions day of the year! Low 20s with a nice breeze, was kinda cold in the shade! Warmed up on a V1 and classic V5 (new Wish You Were Here. Somehow over the years the name moved problems.) then jumped on to the 8 version. Cool toe hooking moves along the lip but crux for me was getting to the lip, could not reach off the back wall so had to undercut under the roof and dyno backwards to lip and compress. Actually worked out pretty well and went pretty quickly! Very pleased.  Had a look at the 10 version and decided that I can't crimp hard enough to try it yet (looking back at it a day later, I reckon I could skip the micro crimp.......). Had a play on an unnamed V8 dyno as well. Got pretty fucking close but managed to tear palm open on the swing (sideways dyno to a vertical pinch). Will go.
Bonnet Bay, just a quick dabble as the sun was setting. Worked the crux move of Cling Thing V9/10, need much bigger biceps for that undercut. And had a play on Pop The Bonnet V8, which I could just not work out a sequence on.
9 Degrees, boulder gym had a comp so stopped in as it finished to see some mates. Had a climb after the awards etc, flashed most things in it. Oh well. Wasn't going to miss good conditions for plastic!
S: Raaaaaaaaaiiiiiinnnn......   So went to St Leonards for a short but intense session. Lever, light campus and one armer stuff after.

[csl]

STG - the next month
Regularly climb problems on the Green circuit at the Arch
Stick to training plan each week
1 day out on rock

MTG - june
Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb privilege.

LTG - end of year
8a

Monday
Last day in Siurana - woke to pouring rain. After a rousing pep talk from Sam we walked in to a very wet Espera Primavera, I pulled on to a shite looking route and decided that being cold and tired was a prime way to re-injure my finger so we sacked it off and went to the beach.

Tue-Thu - Nothing

Friday - Hard Boulders
Building One before work
Bouldering including a few of the V5-7 Circuit

Saturday - Bouldering
Unstructured and sociable session climbed lots of problems from the V4-6/5-7 and one from the V6-9 Circuits.

Aim for the next month is to get down to training for Ceuse. Focus on Capacity (AnCap/AeroCap) + strength for now, then bringing in Power Endurance stuff 6 weeks before the trip. This weeks aims:

2 x Hard Bouldering
1 x Fingerboard
1 x AnCap
2 x AeroCap
.5 x AeroPow

[shark]

Thanks Jack

11.2-3

M. Eve. Foundry Wave. Nick C had postponed Malham till weds so felt I should do something. Too warm for Blind Date. Lacking inspiration turned up at Foundry. Lots of new problems. Had a good time bouldering with Paul (back) from Patagonia, Steve (back from South Africa) Stef and Seb. Not too shoddy. Did green and black spots on right side of steep section in 2 halves.
T.
W. AM eatswood. Decided not to go to Malham based on previous day's forecast which showed a high probability of condensation. Changed plans with Nick to go local then by late evening the forecast had changed but to late to reverse plan. Headed to eatswood to meet Nick and Toby D tagged along. Misty but cleared. Straight away felt not 100% recovered from Sunday and Monday. Had a few redpoint attempts on Reverse but down on Sunday's preformance which was disappointing. Left Nick and Toby to it and went for an exploratory and checked out Turningstone Edge. Came back and had a couple more slightly more successful attempts.
T.
F. Malham with Mina. Third visit this year and first time Oak dry. Also nice and cloudy. Primo in fact. Only Dave S and Jenny W there and they left after a short while so had crag to ourselves. CA x 1 then x 2. Coaxed Mina to try out Rainshadow. Had 5 tie-ins on the Oak. Went well with lots of decent links. Best links were ground to established on undercut by third bolt and from there to mid way across top traverse. Didnt fail on the throw any time I tried it. Wish conditions were always like this. Eve Craft beer tasting event
S.
S.

Back to Malham with Tommy, Mina and Ste tomorrow. Looks nice and cloudy again. 

[fried]

M - Long walk with folks
T - Indoors Arkose, lots of easy stuff as I hadn't been there since last year.
W - Rest
Th - Indoor, a new set, ticked off the easy stuff, started on the more difficult.
Fr - Rest
Sa - All day in urgences with the missus and her tooth abscess, I'll never complain about any of my aches and pains again.

Su - Start at Cuvier reconnaissance, quite a few people, so got on Coriolis https://bleau.info/reconnaissance/15734.html without a warm-up, got shut down,went to try an easier problem https://bleau.info/reconnaissance/2347.html got shut down. Got frustrated. Then did the arete of Versa https://bleau.info/reconnaissance/15737.html second go. Very soft.

Went back to Cuvier and had a last try at  la Poigne https://bleau.info/cuvier/4112.html. I've been trying this for years and with a mixture of good connies, spit and chalk I managed to top out.

Two 6As in one day, a record for me, one piss the other a bit more special.

Nice to see I'm ahead of where I was last year after the winter break, didn't feel like it early on.

[Muenchener]

STG (Easter):  Kochel 6C trav project.
STG (Easter April) under 80kg. This week's average 82.5, down fractionally maybe.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

In which I performing well on boulders the weekend before does not automatically lead to performing well on routes - or boulders - the weekend after.

M: Bike one hour.
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Half a dozen routes/attempts up to 7a. I really don't like doing routes on plastic, but need to get the hang of the whole ropes malarkey again.
T: Bike one hour, 3x40 stories stair climbing
F:
S: Kochel bouldering. Disappointing session: had forgotten the sequence on my proj, and after reconstructing it wasn't able to to the crux - a share on a horrible slopy pinch - which I have done a couple of times on previous occasions.
S: Konstein. Decent progress on a short-but-desperate "6c+" (?) project, but no tick. Nice to be out in the woods in the sun.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions. Done quite well this year, but getting a bit warm for me now.
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.

Two weeks in one:

7th - 13th March:

Mon: 4x4s and wooden 7a+ circuit at TCA.
Tue: Max hangs, 10s +13kg 16mm edge.
Wed: Woody at TCA, short power problems.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: TCA (mothership problems?).
Sat: 5km run. Went to friends place, guzzled chocolate and cake.
Sun: Max hangs, 10s +15kg 16mm edge.

14th - 20th March:

Mon: Rest.
Tue: Max hangs.
Wed: Peak, Stanage Plantation. Lovely sunny day out (felt like it was August!). Spent an hour tickling the top of Deliverance again. Did Glass Hour at the end of the day - satisfying as had struggled to get the toe hook to work on previous brief attempts.
Thu: Nowt. Getting a cold.
Fri: Feeling pretty rubbish but went over to Neath Abbey. Frustratingly failed to do Tectonics (indeed, bar my first attempt was going backwards), although did do Al's Arete earlier so day wasn't entirely a write off.
Sat: Nowt.
Sun: Nowt.

Nice to get out twice in the week and get some decent probs ticked. Feeling pretty disappointed about not doing Tectonics though - expected this to go (or at least make progress) after cruising up to the crux on my flash attempt a few weeks ago. Despite having a rest week not long ago, I suspect that I've burned out and reached the end of a peak; more rest probably required before building up again.

[Dolly]

M Foundry lunchtime. I was still tired from the weekend so just traversed which was hard enough
T Nothing. Drank champers in the evening
W Foundry lunchtime. Did 1 level 3 and nearly did another
[/size]T Shed. Brilliant as ever
[/size]F HIT
[/size]S Kettlebells. Party at Seb's. Despite my best efforts to drink moderately (I only took beer not wine) I ended up getting wankered on gin -  again. Stumbled home via chips with salad in a tray.
[/size]S Somewhat hungover. Went to Milllstone late on to try the keyhole traverse for some reason. Its fucking sharp and its not piss. Didnt do it

[tomtom]

Chips and SALAD?

[Coops_13]

STG: Punter my way through Slovenia, trying not to worsen injury
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

Fingers relatively buggered, wrist flared up again  Rested in the week then went on a pre-planned trip to Portland

M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Started sport climbing, onsighted 6a/6b and got on a dusty 7a+, way too cold. Went bouldering and ticked 3 7As and a 6C+ in the Cuttings Boulderfield 
S: Bouldering in the boulderfield again, heavy gravity day it seemed... Got a classic 6B+ then went to Lulworth to check out some boulders there, got a sick 7A  Fingers no worse, but wrist aching. Slovenia on Friday...

[ashtond6]

Stg onsight 7a
Mtg 7b+
Ltg 8a

All of which are subject to shoulder, which is pretty fucked up again

This week has been light bouldering to keep the blood flowing before Spain on Tuesday

M rest
T physio
W the works, did an easy circuit, then physio
T quick hour at broomgrove, lapping the easiest sections
F rest
S rest, little physio
S 1hr at broomgrove, more lapping of easiest sections

Fingers crossed for some luck

[T_B]

84.9Kg

M - Foundry lunch. Some bouldering on Bleaustone, then pulled lower back.
T - Back in spasm - off work.
W - P.M. F/board repeaters 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, back 3 and 15mm edge.
T - Run. Cutthroat Bridge - Back Tor and return. 12.2Km / 244M. Headtorch fail, so really slow descent.
F - School lunch. Mainly 50 deg. Did Total Recoil 7B+ for the first time since Nov/Dec. Still couldn't undercut with right hand and left index finger didn't like sidepulls.
S - P.M. F/board repeaters 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, back 3 and 15mm edge.
S - Wolf's Pit. My first fell race. 9.2Km / 444M. Wanted to get close to 1hr and managed 1hr1min. Not seen the results yet but I didn't come last and felt like I gave it everything. Got passed on the flats, passed people on the hills. Brutal but a brilliant experience

Injury update: Had my 4 monthly back pull. My 'weird' index finger injury is like a sprain and still hurts if you press it, but there's no strength loss when doing basic pulling. Still a bit swollen though. Wrist is slowly improving I think, certainly no worse this week but frustrating not to be able to undercut. Ankle holding up.

Off to Font on Friday en famille, I'll be taking running shoes in case it's damp.

[nai]

56.3kg this morning, just above fighting weight.

M - hour bouldering at Rubicon and AeroPow to finish plan.
T rest - planned
W rest due to nipper being off school ill
Th - Embankment, did Beef It 2nd go fairly easily, felt great on it, quickest 7b yet but it is sooo bouldery
F  - wanted to go out but decided resting skin ahead of next week was probably wise
S - rest
S - Malham - straight on Raindogs so not the mileage I've said this week would be all about. First couple of goes up pretty poor, 3rd go starting to remember and improve the sequqnce. 4th go a bit rubbish. Bit disappointed not to feel fitter on it, only managed the same link as last year but I'll see when I've got the moves a bit more hard-wired.
 

[Dolly]

Chips and SALAD?

I know - terrible behaviour.
All my post seems to have disappeared for some reason

[cheque]

STG- Move house
MTG- Make film without getting shit.
LTG- Climb hard one day.

Another week of moving and nothing else. Only three days to go now though.

[SA Chris]

M - swimming lessons cancelled, so legged it to local coastal crag to get on link up project. Quick warm up confirmed right choice of venue as conditions were great. Crux of traverse felt easy based on last attempt, could do it with a flagged foot rather than the awkward knee scum i was relying on last year. Got to the start of the up problem feeling strong, but a bit of crumble (winter freeze / thaw? ) of a handhold spat me off. Worked the moves to reacquaint myself with the top moves again, and had one good attempt, then rushed a last one before it got dark. No joy, but feel it will go next time.
T - a bit of core
W - Wall session. felt OK, but never seem to perform as well on comp probs after the comp than I do during the comp.
T - Nothing
F- walk to work and back (2 x had dentist) Nothing at home, head not in it due below.
S - Mad dash down to London to see an ill relative, but 24 hours too late. RIP.
S - Partner did half marathon while I entertained kids in the park.

[TobyD]

M - Board session at the Foundry, mostly shorter hard problems up to 10 moves; pretty good form considering out both days at the weekend, and finally feeling reasonable after endless flu-ey illness
T - 30 minute road run
W- eatswood with Simon and Nick, first session on the trav, managed all but 2 of the moves and some links around those moves.
T- Felt surprisingly battered after grit day, 5x 35 move 7b circuit at the foundry, 10-15 minutes rings and core
F - 30 minute road run
S - Malham, overnight - linked top section after boulder to the top with clips; practised all but 2 of the moves on the boulder, precluded by skin; deadhangs on crux holds where avoiding the moves
S - back on overnight, more links on the top section and refined a couple of moves, felt productive trying some links tired to be able to adjust efficiency of a few moves.

[Plattsy]

S - Wolf's Pit. My first fell race. 9.2Km / 444M. Wanted to get close to 1hr and managed 1hr1min. Not seen the results yet but I didn't come last and felt like I gave it everything. Got passed on the flats, passed people on the hills. Brutal but a brilliant experience

Off to Font on Friday en famille, I'll be taking running shoes in case it's damp.

Sounds like you had a good first fell race Tom. Watch out for a growing obsession. :-)

I like the blue walking route around l'Elephant, Dame Jouanne and Manoury for a run. It's the only one I've tried in the forest but has a bit of everything (short stiff climbs, fast sweeping downhill, good views over the forest) and is about 10km if I remember correctly.

[tommytwotone]

STG: half decent Font performance 8th April
LTG: Font 7 something


M: Nowt - battered from instense outdoor session previous day
T: Depot eve - good session on Uni comp prob circuit, made light work of stuff in < V5 territory, shoulder / core to finish
W: Gym on lunch, shoulder complexes 30s on, 30 sec rest - military press, upright row (both 20kg), side raise, front raise (both 5kg), 4 rounds. Core to finish.
T: Nowt. Out on last after work for team member's leaving do.
F: Nowt. Hungover. Sausage & hash brown sarnie for breakfast, Burger King meal for lunch and hair of dog in evening.
S: Nowt. Full day childcare as other half was wiped out ill.
S: More childcare, but managed a few rounds of 30s on / 30s rest planks and side raises in the living room.

[Nibile]

Power Club
STG - board projects ----------> one project on rock. Temps rising quickly I fear the board season is over.

Mon  - rest. Stiff neck, hard night. Dammit. Wanted to do a Litvinov.
Tue - rest. Neck getting better.
Wed - BM/system, crimp session. Strongstrongstrong. Very happy. Front lever pulls 6x3. Nice to be back into it after two days of compulsory rest.
Thu - climbing class. Some laddering up and down on the shittiest campusboard ever built. Tired.
Fri - board climbing. Power was on. Short recruitment, then matched PB on circuit despite not training PE for ages. Good going. Then Protocol4 x2 with snatch pulls, broad jumps, front lever pulls, mirror boxing. Phew.
Sat - no training but very physically demandind day, I helped in cooking a dinner for 350 people... Ended with lower back completely seized and horribly aching.
Sun - kettlebell swings, trap shrugs, clean and jerk. Brilliant.

Very strange week. Managed to pull it together despite everything. Very very happy about the system crimp. Big big gains. Also happy about power endurance, good goes on project circuit. Must work aerocap more often.

[filz]

STG: Train for peak at the end of april. Train slopers. Loose a couple of kg recently taken.
MTG: Consolidate 7a
LTG: 7c

Mon - Tried some fb, but stopped quickly. Too tired from the weekend.
Tue - Board climbing. Hard problems. Good session
Wed - fb max hangs in the morning.
Thu - ring dips, weights
Fri - I was in Rome for a conference. Nothing
Sat and Sun - bouldering. Saturday was too hot, but I had 2 good days. Skin on the second day did not hurt that much, so I hope it's getting back to good conditions for climbing.

[Nibile]

STG: Train for The Peak at the end of april.

FTFY.

[filz]

STG: Train for The Peak at the end of april.

FTFY.

I knew you wouldn't have liked the last part 

[fried]

S - Wolf's Pit. My first fell race. 9.2Km / 444M. Wanted to get close to 1hr and managed 1hr1min. Not seen the results yet but I didn't come last and felt like I gave it everything. Got passed on the flats, passed people on the hills. Brutal but a brilliant experience

Off to Font on Friday en famille, I'll be taking running shoes in case it's damp.

Sounds like you had a good first fell race Tom. Watch out for a growing obsession. :-)

I like the blue walking route around l'Elephant, Dame Jouanne and Manoury for a run. It's the only one I've tried in the forest but has a bit of everything (short stiff climbs, fast sweeping downhill, good views over the forest) and is about 10km if I remember correctly.

This is a good one too, I've never done it as a run, only as a walk (although plenty do). Classic tour of the 3 pignons climbing every hill in it, mostly on broken trails with some flatter sections between. You can always cut it shorter. 800m of climbing in 16km.

http://www.circuitdes25bosses.fr/carte_interactive.html

[T_B]

S - Wolf's Pit. My first fell race. 9.2Km / 444M. Wanted to get close to 1hr and managed 1hr1min. Not seen the results yet but I didn't come last and felt like I gave it everything. Got passed on the flats, passed people on the hills. Brutal but a brilliant experience

Off to Font on Friday en famille, I'll be taking running shoes in case it's damp.

Sounds like you had a good first fell race Tom. Watch out for a growing obsession. :-)

I like the blue walking route around l'Elephant, Dame Jouanne and Manoury for a run. It's the only one I've tried in the forest but has a bit of everything (short stiff climbs, fast sweeping downhill, good views over the forest) and is about 10km if I remember correctly.

This is a good one too, I've never done it as a run, only as a walk (although plenty do). Classic tour of the 3 pignons climbing every hill in it, mostly on broken trails with some flatter sections between. You can always cut it shorter. 800m of climbing in 16km.

http://www.circuitdes25bosses.fr/carte_interactive.html

Brilliant - thanks chaps.

[Sasquatch]

M-
T-Str Testing
W-
Th-Moonboard - fun session, and managed a sneak peak at the beta version of the app.  looks good, easy to use, and super fun hold setup
F- Backcountry Ski
S-
S-Aero testing

on the non-exercise/training/climbing note, one of my business partners (there are three of us) announced on Monday that she wanted out of the Business.  Now we have to figure out how to transition.  It's gonna be a shit show for the next few months...

[the_dom]

Mon: Trail run
Tues: AM Deadlifts, PM Bouldering and hangboard
Wed: Rest day
Thurs: AM Deadlifts, PM Bouldering and hangboard
Fri: Light deadlifts, kettlebell swings and Turkish Getups
Sat: Bouldering and hangboard
Sun: Rest day

Good week. Slowly getting there.

[Mike Tyson]

Feast or famine for me recently regards training.

STG Climb 7A in Font next month
MTG climb a 7B outside in the UK
LTG sail across the 7C's

M- Nothing,  very taxing day at work.
T- Durham wall session. Felt reasonable.
W-
T-
F-
S-
S- 5k run with Mrs, gentle walk up to Goldsborough Carr to check it out. Looks brilliant, and climbed two easy problems in my trainers.

Hoping for  a better week this week, but I'm all ready knackered after work and it's only Tuesday!

[shurt]

Stg: get out climbing while still fit
Mtg: get better stamina

Monday: last day in Siurana. It rained. There were dry routes apparently and I had to give it the whole  'your country needs you' routine to get others  interested. It wasn't too bad but after me and Conor got a rope and harnesses out the rain  got heavier.  A tapas lunch with beers by the beach saved the day.

Rest of the week: sweet FA.  Tired,  ill and an unsleeping child. Moan Moan.

[Muenchener]

There's a beach at Siurana? That certainly influences my planning for the autumn.

[Luke Owens]

Getting close on Left Wall now...

Did active rest as to not tax my arms and be rested for the cave last week. Also weighed 11.9 st the week previous, almost a stone heavier than I was a year ago, trying to lose a bit of weight.

M: Weight - 11.7 st

Lunch - 2mile run in 20mins

T: Weight - 11.6 st

Lunch - Stretching and Antags

10 minute cycle, 4km

Eve: Plas Power - Light session

10 min ARC trav warm-up
8 routes up to about 6b+

W: Lunch - Light 20 minute Cycle - 5.2km

T: Weight: 11.4 st

Cave - Left Wall - Got my high point from last session about 5 times and got past it once (to move 12) and fell off one move from the flake/rest!

F: Rest

S: Cave - Left Wall - Felt really good warming up but then struggled to stay warm for the whole session fingers numbing out. Had less "good" redpoints in me than usual.

Got to the new high point (12moves in) twice and powered out completely.

Figured out some better beta for that move then failed to get back there from the start...

S: Rest - Weight: 11.2st

[shurt]

There's a beach at Siurana? That certainly influences my planning for the autumn.

There's one on  the way back to the airport if you take the scenic route! It wasn't raining on the coast either which buoyed spirits further...

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 5 mins 39 X 25 3 X 5 mins 39 X 21 1 mins easy between each set 5 mins 39 X 25 to finish.
Tue. Weights, then deadhanging 7 different grips 8 secs hangs with 16 lbs added. 5 sets of repeaters 5 secs on 5 secs x5 2 mins between each set 5 sets with 17 lbs added.
Physio assessment on Achilles healing well.
Wed. Same as Monday.
Thu. Same as Tuesday plus physio exercises.
Fri. Same as Monday.
Sat. Physio exs
Sun. Same as Tuesday.

[shark]

Also weighed 11.9 st the week previous, almost a stone heavier than I was a year ago, trying to lose a bit

Everyone is different but losing 5lbs in a week sounds quite aggressive

[Luke Owens]

Also weighed 11.9 st the week previous, almost a stone heavier than I was a year ago, trying to lose a bit

Everyone is different but losing 5lbs in a week sounds quite aggressive

I guess it is, I've switched to just eating healthy food little and often for the last 2 weeks and the weight just fell off, last night I was 11.1st

I don't feel ill, weak or anything so I'm not too worried.

My "normal" weight was around 10.9st for years prior.

[Falling Down]

2 weeks from me.

Previous week.

W - Bouldering the Westway with GME.  Feeling some snap come back.  Did a bunch of Blacks and one White. Good progress.

F - S - Great trip to Siurana with several UKB team members.  Climbed way better than El Chorro though 6b seems to be my limit at the moment so much still to do with my head and endurance - get pumped as soon as the footholds run out or it gets steep.  Felt like a climber again though and had a great time with the team.

Last week - Nowt.  Tired. Had a cold and busy getting my business off the ground.

Need to think about new goals.

[rodma]

Mon: wallington bear
Tue: stretchington bear
Wed: as monday
Thurs: as Tues
Fri: Rest
Sat: Bowden with mrs Rodma and the wee guy. bit epic. mrs rodma had to do a lot to keep him occupied.
Sun: rest

tough week, with both mrs rodma and the wee guy ill, so not a lot of sleep had. it was the wee guy's first time out bouldering with us in 6 or so months and it wasn't a complete write-off, but I've got a lot to learn i think.

[moose]

Also weighed 11.9 st the week previous, almost a stone heavier than I was a year ago, trying to lose a bit

Everyone is different but losing 5lbs in a week sounds quite aggressive

I guess it is, I've switched to just eating healthy food little and often for the last 2 weeks and the weight just fell off, last night I was 11.1st

I don't feel ill, weak or anything so I'm not too worried.

My "normal" weight was around 10.9st for years prior.

Doesn't sound too worrying (either that, or I should be very worried) - my weight frequently varies by 1.5 to 2kg day-to-day and weekly-average to weekly-average with no apparent rhyme or reason.

[csl]

Need to think about new goals.

Get out and redpoint something this spring/summer?

[SA Chris]

Bowden with mrs Rodma and the wee guy

How old now? I mean the wee guy, not ms Rodma.

[rodma]

17 months

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[SA Chris]

Tricky age for getting out with - mobile enough to be dangerous, but not yet stable enough on feet to be safe. Plus not quite up to speed on iPads yet

[Luke Owens]

It's amazing how much longer you can hold on for when your little one runs underneath you mid-crux armed with a big stick...!

[SA Chris]

Why would you be mid-crux armed with a stick?

[Coops_13]

Why would you be mid-crux armed with a stick?

midges?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[tomtom]

Big week - mainly thanks to 4 days of amazing weather in the Lakes \o/

M: Drive to Lakes with MrsTT. Managed to persuade her to go for a little walk up Kentmere and I set to work on a couple of problems in Little Font whilst she read a book in the Sun.. Quick repeat of Negative Reality Inversion and a couple of other easy ones - then got stuck into Middle Earth. I've had quite a tussle with this in the past (its a 7A+ ish - its debatable - OK, if you really want to know more look here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=24770.0 ) - and it still felt wrong the way I was trying to do it.. Sharp low crimp for LH, choice of two blunt flat sidepull pod things for RH - move up and once you get one of the higher crimps (shoulder height) then its all over... Anyway, much swearing and grunting to MrsTT's amusement and I stopped as I was about to split a tip on my LH

Tu: Morning pottering about - quick walk, visit an old house blah blah... MrsTT felt the need for an afternoon nap - so I scooted off to Kentmere again... Back to Middle Earth... felt more 'in tune' with the rock than on the previous day - and after much buggering about found that despite being tall the nearer sidepull/pod worked for me, and I could get knees and things tucked in behind my arm and reach up in balance for the next crimp. Nice foot step through for the next move and did it - superb - and in a good style too (well for me anyway).. Then went and celebrated by thrashing around unsucessfully on the sitter to NRI (its just a bit nasty I've decided) then went and worked on the 7A to the right of Tourniquet.. (Tourniquet looks great - and has large looking holds for an 8A... hmm...).

We: Off from Bowness to Eskdale... drive over Hardknott etc.. Nice quiet guesthouse - and I managed a quick hour or so at Eskdale Fishground. Two problems on the hitlist - Robs Wall (7C from sit, 7A+ from stand) and Strong Arete (7A+). They both felt hard. Really hard. So decided to play on the 7A on the RH corner of the Robs Wall block and got frustrated on that... Sun dipped and the rock cooled off - and thanks to having some mobile reception got some video Beta on Robs Wall. From the stand, the first move is just awkward, an off balance step on, then the left foot (on a good spike thing) keeps you just in balance with a lunge up to a crimpy edge (in coarse granite lumpy crimpy edge way..). This move took a long time to get right - quite percentagey for me, and I'm not used to doing dynamic latch - suck in body type moves. As the light fell, I had a couple of decent attempts and one final good rest. Pulled on, latched the crimp, managed to get my RH up, walked feet up to the right, snatched the higher hold, levered up and had a desperate throw for the final large jug (which I held)... fantastic, a superb problem and a real last gasp, nothing left, only just, as the sun was setting send... Beer and Steak and Ale pie down the road for dinner

Th: Great day walking in Wasdale - superb weather... such a lucky week.. Managed to factor in a 2 hour Fishground session late afternoon. This time I wanted Strong Arete.. Confident after the day before success, I found it bloody hard! The stand (V3) went fairly quickly (though its quite knacky) but the first two moves were just too much for me. Burly and I had no burl left.. I could see all the numbers - the sequence made sense, I just needed (to be able) to pull harder. Returned last thing to the 7A arete right of Robs Wall that I was trying and having figured out the first move came desparately close before having to give up...

Fr: Potter and travel home

Sa: Blackstone edge with Andy Popp. Knackered and thin skin - so coarse moorland grit is the answer!! Andy was carrying an injury, that he unfortunately aggravated early on, so it was a fairly quick session - ticked some nice 6B-6C's on the far RH end - and got Swingers 7A dispatched at the end...

Su: Manc Depot in the evening for a 60-90 min session... wasnt climbing very well (too used to rock not plastic!) - though felt knackered afterwards.. managed a couple of reds, and managed not to injure myself this time

[rodma]

Tricky age for getting out with - mobile enough to be dangerous, but not yet stable enough on feet to be safe. Plus not quite up to speed on iPads yet

Quite :D

He was in a down suit, so was really toasty, but wouldn't let go of my fingers so he could walk around. Made my hands like ice.

Sent from my E5823 using Tapatalk

[SA Chris]

Climbing with a child hanging off your fingers can be a bit tricky.

[Muenchener]

Potentially a useful bit of climbing kit later though. Mine is twelve and I've started training him up as a belay bunny / rope gun.

[petejh]

A quite mental week so late post.

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Bouldering phase.

M. Quick tired hour at Tremerchion on way home from work/airport. Getting the sloper on 36 Chambers.
T. Beacon. Decent, lots of purples - '6C-7B'.. quite the grade range.
W. Core & mobility sesh
T.
F.
S. Cave. 2nd sesh on Rockatrocity, geting to last moves just need to practice them (!). Ground up on anything in the cave?, bellend..
S. TRX sesh.

[Sasquatch]

M-
T-Str Testing
W-
Th-Moonboard - fun session, and managed a sneak peak at the beta version of the app.  looks good, easy to use, and super fun hold setup
F- Backcountry Ski
S-
S-Aero testing

on the non-exercise/training/climbing note, one of my business partners (there are three of us) announced on Monday that she wanted out of the Business.  Now we have to figure out how to transition.  It's gonna be a shit show for the next few months...

I did my Randall test last week and just got my report back.  I averaged 95% on my strength test(the one discussed here:Powerclub discussion of finger strength testing), which is about apparently 8% less than the average for my actual grade    I am officially a weakling   I scored "weak" on virtually every single metric he scores except for "finger strength for a route climber at my grade.  In the red, or on the red/yellow cusp for every single thing, plus I have "weak" pull strength, core endurance and poor shoulder flexibility. 

Made me crack up laughing.  I think the tests were all correct.  Just proving something I've known for a long time that no one has agreed with me about.  I'm "weak" for my performance level, and mostly that I'm total crap without feet of some sort.  Well, back around to the training...