[JackAus]

STG: More V8s. Consistent sub 75kg.
MTG: V9.
LTG: V11. Fear Factory List. 7/10 done.

M: Rest.
T: St Leonards. New stuff. Again all bar 3. Lever and light fingerboard after.
W: Rest.
T: St Leonards. Made own problems. Some hard stuff. Lots of lever stuff, campus and fingerboard after.
F: Rest
S: Jannali, Bonnet Bay and 9 Degrees.
Jannali, back here to try the original Wish You Were Here V8. First decent conditions day of the year! Low 20s with a nice breeze, was kinda cold in the shade! Warmed up on a V1 and classic V5 (new Wish You Were Here. Somehow over the years the name moved problems.) then jumped on to the 8 version. Cool toe hooking moves along the lip but crux for me was getting to the lip, could not reach off the back wall so had to undercut under the roof and dyno backwards to lip and compress. Actually worked out pretty well and went pretty quickly! Very pleased.  Had a look at the 10 version and decided that I can't crimp hard enough to try it yet (looking back at it a day later, I reckon I could skip the micro crimp.......). Had a play on an unnamed V8 dyno as well. Got pretty fucking close but managed to tear palm open on the swing (sideways dyno to a vertical pinch). Will go.
Bonnet Bay, just a quick dabble as the sun was setting. Worked the crux move of Cling Thing V9/10, need much bigger biceps for that undercut. And had a play on Pop The Bonnet V8, which I could just not work out a sequence on.
9 Degrees, boulder gym had a comp so stopped in as it finished to see some mates. Had a climb after the awards etc, flashed most things in it. Oh well. Wasn't going to miss good conditions for plastic!
S: Raaaaaaaaaiiiiiinnnn......   So went to St Leonards for a short but intense session. Lever, light campus and one armer stuff after.

[csl]

STG - the next month
Regularly climb problems on the Green circuit at the Arch
Stick to training plan each week
1 day out on rock

MTG - june
Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb privilege.

LTG - end of year
8a

Monday
Last day in Siurana - woke to pouring rain. After a rousing pep talk from Sam we walked in to a very wet Espera Primavera, I pulled on to a shite looking route and decided that being cold and tired was a prime way to re-injure my finger so we sacked it off and went to the beach.

Tue-Thu - Nothing

Friday - Hard Boulders
Building One before work
Bouldering including a few of the V5-7 Circuit

Saturday - Bouldering
Unstructured and sociable session climbed lots of problems from the V4-6/5-7 and one from the V6-9 Circuits.

Aim for the next month is to get down to training for Ceuse. Focus on Capacity (AnCap/AeroCap) + strength for now, then bringing in Power Endurance stuff 6 weeks before the trip. This weeks aims:

2 x Hard Bouldering
1 x Fingerboard
1 x AnCap
2 x AeroCap
.5 x AeroPow

[shark]

Thanks Jack

11.2-3

M. Eve. Foundry Wave. Nick C had postponed Malham till weds so felt I should do something. Too warm for Blind Date. Lacking inspiration turned up at Foundry. Lots of new problems. Had a good time bouldering with Paul (back) from Patagonia, Steve (back from South Africa) Stef and Seb. Not too shoddy. Did green and black spots on right side of steep section in 2 halves.
T.
W. AM eatswood. Decided not to go to Malham based on previous day's forecast which showed a high probability of condensation. Changed plans with Nick to go local then by late evening the forecast had changed but to late to reverse plan. Headed to eatswood to meet Nick and Toby D tagged along. Misty but cleared. Straight away felt not 100% recovered from Sunday and Monday. Had a few redpoint attempts on Reverse but down on Sunday's preformance which was disappointing. Left Nick and Toby to it and went for an exploratory and checked out Turningstone Edge. Came back and had a couple more slightly more successful attempts.
T.
F. Malham with Mina. Third visit this year and first time Oak dry. Also nice and cloudy. Primo in fact. Only Dave S and Jenny W there and they left after a short while so had crag to ourselves. CA x 1 then x 2. Coaxed Mina to try out Rainshadow. Had 5 tie-ins on the Oak. Went well with lots of decent links. Best links were ground to established on undercut by third bolt and from there to mid way across top traverse. Didnt fail on the throw any time I tried it. Wish conditions were always like this. Eve Craft beer tasting event
S.
S.

Back to Malham with Tommy, Mina and Ste tomorrow. Looks nice and cloudy again. 

[fried]

M - Long walk with folks
T - Indoors Arkose, lots of easy stuff as I hadn't been there since last year.
W - Rest
Th - Indoor, a new set, ticked off the easy stuff, started on the more difficult.
Fr - Rest
Sa - All day in urgences with the missus and her tooth abscess, I'll never complain about any of my aches and pains again.

Su - Start at Cuvier reconnaissance, quite a few people, so got on Coriolis https://bleau.info/reconnaissance/15734.html without a warm-up, got shut down,went to try an easier problem https://bleau.info/reconnaissance/2347.html got shut down. Got frustrated. Then did the arete of Versa https://bleau.info/reconnaissance/15737.html second go. Very soft.

Went back to Cuvier and had a last try at  la Poigne https://bleau.info/cuvier/4112.html. I've been trying this for years and with a mixture of good connies, spit and chalk I managed to top out.

Two 6As in one day, a record for me, one piss the other a bit more special.

Nice to see I'm ahead of where I was last year after the winter break, didn't feel like it early on.

[Muenchener]

STG (Easter):  Kochel 6C trav project.
STG (Easter April) under 80kg. This week's average 82.5, down fractionally maybe.
MTG (2016): Redpoint 7b
LTG (<= 5 years): Redpoint 8a before I hit 60.

In which I performing well on boulders the weekend before does not automatically lead to performing well on routes - or boulders - the weekend after.

M: Bike one hour.
T:
W: Wall, Thalkirchen. Half a dozen routes/attempts up to 7a. I really don't like doing routes on plastic, but need to get the hang of the whole ropes malarkey again.
T: Bike one hour, 3x40 stories stair climbing
F:
S: Kochel bouldering. Disappointing session: had forgotten the sequence on my proj, and after reconstructing it wasn't able to to the crux - a share on a horrible slopy pinch - which I have done a couple of times on previous occasions.
S: Konstein. Decent progress on a short-but-desperate "6c+" (?) project, but no tick. Nice to be out in the woods in the sun.

[Hugh]

STG: 7B. More grit sessions. Done quite well this year, but getting a bit warm for me now.
MTG: Don't get broken. Get strong for Santa Gadea in June.

Two weeks in one:

7th - 13th March:

Mon: 4x4s and wooden 7a+ circuit at TCA.
Tue: Max hangs, 10s +13kg 16mm edge.
Wed: Woody at TCA, short power problems.
Thu: Nowt.
Fri: TCA (mothership problems?).
Sat: 5km run. Went to friends place, guzzled chocolate and cake.
Sun: Max hangs, 10s +15kg 16mm edge.

14th - 20th March:

Mon: Rest.
Tue: Max hangs.
Wed: Peak, Stanage Plantation. Lovely sunny day out (felt like it was August!). Spent an hour tickling the top of Deliverance again. Did Glass Hour at the end of the day - satisfying as had struggled to get the toe hook to work on previous brief attempts.
Thu: Nowt. Getting a cold.
Fri: Feeling pretty rubbish but went over to Neath Abbey. Frustratingly failed to do Tectonics (indeed, bar my first attempt was going backwards), although did do Al's Arete earlier so day wasn't entirely a write off.
Sat: Nowt.
Sun: Nowt.

Nice to get out twice in the week and get some decent probs ticked. Feeling pretty disappointed about not doing Tectonics though - expected this to go (or at least make progress) after cruising up to the crux on my flash attempt a few weeks ago. Despite having a rest week not long ago, I suspect that I've burned out and reached the end of a peak; more rest probably required before building up again.

[Dolly]

M Foundry lunchtime. I was still tired from the weekend so just traversed which was hard enough
T Nothing. Drank champers in the evening
W Foundry lunchtime. Did 1 level 3 and nearly did another
[/size]T Shed. Brilliant as ever
[/size]F HIT
[/size]S Kettlebells. Party at Seb's. Despite my best efforts to drink moderately (I only took beer not wine) I ended up getting wankered on gin -  again. Stumbled home via chips with salad in a tray.
[/size]S Somewhat hungover. Went to Milllstone late on to try the keyhole traverse for some reason. Its fucking sharp and its not piss. Didnt do it

[tomtom]

Chips and SALAD?

[Coops_13]

STG: Punter my way through Slovenia, trying not to worsen injury
MTG: Get solid on 7B/+ boulder and 7b/+ sport
LTG: 8A & 8a

Fingers relatively buggered, wrist flared up again  Rested in the week then went on a pre-planned trip to Portland

M:
T:
W:
T:
F:
S: Started sport climbing, onsighted 6a/6b and got on a dusty 7a+, way too cold. Went bouldering and ticked 3 7As and a 6C+ in the Cuttings Boulderfield 
S: Bouldering in the boulderfield again, heavy gravity day it seemed... Got a classic 6B+ then went to Lulworth to check out some boulders there, got a sick 7A  Fingers no worse, but wrist aching. Slovenia on Friday...

[ashtond6]

Stg onsight 7a
Mtg 7b+
Ltg 8a

All of which are subject to shoulder, which is pretty fucked up again

This week has been light bouldering to keep the blood flowing before Spain on Tuesday

M rest
T physio
W the works, did an easy circuit, then physio
T quick hour at broomgrove, lapping the easiest sections
F rest
S rest, little physio
S 1hr at broomgrove, more lapping of easiest sections

Fingers crossed for some luck

[T_B]

84.9Kg

M - Foundry lunch. Some bouldering on Bleaustone, then pulled lower back.
T - Back in spasm - off work.
W - P.M. F/board repeaters 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, back 3 and 15mm edge.
T - Run. Cutthroat Bridge - Back Tor and return. 12.2Km / 244M. Headtorch fail, so really slow descent.
F - School lunch. Mainly 50 deg. Did Total Recoil 7B+ for the first time since Nov/Dec. Still couldn't undercut with right hand and left index finger didn't like sidepulls.
S - P.M. F/board repeaters 2 x 6 x 7 front 3, back 3 and 15mm edge.
S - Wolf's Pit. My first fell race. 9.2Km / 444M. Wanted to get close to 1hr and managed 1hr1min. Not seen the results yet but I didn't come last and felt like I gave it everything. Got passed on the flats, passed people on the hills. Brutal but a brilliant experience

Injury update: Had my 4 monthly back pull. My 'weird' index finger injury is like a sprain and still hurts if you press it, but there's no strength loss when doing basic pulling. Still a bit swollen though. Wrist is slowly improving I think, certainly no worse this week but frustrating not to be able to undercut. Ankle holding up.

Off to Font on Friday en famille, I'll be taking running shoes in case it's damp.

[nai]

56.3kg this morning, just above fighting weight.

M - hour bouldering at Rubicon and AeroPow to finish plan.
T rest - planned
W rest due to nipper being off school ill
Th - Embankment, did Beef It 2nd go fairly easily, felt great on it, quickest 7b yet but it is sooo bouldery
F  - wanted to go out but decided resting skin ahead of next week was probably wise
S - rest
S - Malham - straight on Raindogs so not the mileage I've said this week would be all about. First couple of goes up pretty poor, 3rd go starting to remember and improve the sequqnce. 4th go a bit rubbish. Bit disappointed not to feel fitter on it, only managed the same link as last year but I'll see when I've got the moves a bit more hard-wired.
 

[Dolly]

Chips and SALAD?

I know - terrible behaviour.
All my post seems to have disappeared for some reason

[cheque]

STG- Move house
MTG- Make film without getting shit.
LTG- Climb hard one day.

Another week of moving and nothing else. Only three days to go now though.

[SA Chris]

M - swimming lessons cancelled, so legged it to local coastal crag to get on link up project. Quick warm up confirmed right choice of venue as conditions were great. Crux of traverse felt easy based on last attempt, could do it with a flagged foot rather than the awkward knee scum i was relying on last year. Got to the start of the up problem feeling strong, but a bit of crumble (winter freeze / thaw? ) of a handhold spat me off. Worked the moves to reacquaint myself with the top moves again, and had one good attempt, then rushed a last one before it got dark. No joy, but feel it will go next time.
T - a bit of core
W - Wall session. felt OK, but never seem to perform as well on comp probs after the comp than I do during the comp.
T - Nothing
F- walk to work and back (2 x had dentist) Nothing at home, head not in it due below.
S - Mad dash down to London to see an ill relative, but 24 hours too late. RIP.
S - Partner did half marathon while I entertained kids in the park.

[TobyD]

M - Board session at the Foundry, mostly shorter hard problems up to 10 moves; pretty good form considering out both days at the weekend, and finally feeling reasonable after endless flu-ey illness
T - 30 minute road run
W- eatswood with Simon and Nick, first session on the trav, managed all but 2 of the moves and some links around those moves.
T- Felt surprisingly battered after grit day, 5x 35 move 7b circuit at the foundry, 10-15 minutes rings and core
F - 30 minute road run
S - Malham, overnight - linked top section after boulder to the top with clips; practised all but 2 of the moves on the boulder, precluded by skin; deadhangs on crux holds where avoiding the moves
S - back on overnight, more links on the top section and refined a couple of moves, felt productive trying some links tired to be able to adjust efficiency of a few moves.

[Plattsy]

S - Wolf's Pit. My first fell race. 9.2Km / 444M. Wanted to get close to 1hr and managed 1hr1min. Not seen the results yet but I didn't come last and felt like I gave it everything. Got passed on the flats, passed people on the hills. Brutal but a brilliant experience

Off to Font on Friday en famille, I'll be taking running shoes in case it's damp.

Sounds like you had a good first fell race Tom. Watch out for a growing obsession. :-)

I like the blue walking route around l'Elephant, Dame Jouanne and Manoury for a run. It's the only one I've tried in the forest but has a bit of everything (short stiff climbs, fast sweeping downhill, good views over the forest) and is about 10km if I remember correctly.

[tommytwotone]

STG: half decent Font performance 8th April
LTG: Font 7 something


M: Nowt - battered from instense outdoor session previous day
T: Depot eve - good session on Uni comp prob circuit, made light work of stuff in < V5 territory, shoulder / core to finish
W: Gym on lunch, shoulder complexes 30s on, 30 sec rest - military press, upright row (both 20kg), side raise, front raise (both 5kg), 4 rounds. Core to finish.
T: Nowt. Out on last after work for team member's leaving do.
F: Nowt. Hungover. Sausage & hash brown sarnie for breakfast, Burger King meal for lunch and hair of dog in evening.
S: Nowt. Full day childcare as other half was wiped out ill.
S: More childcare, but managed a few rounds of 30s on / 30s rest planks and side raises in the living room.

[Nibile]

Power Club
STG - board projects ----------> one project on rock. Temps rising quickly I fear the board season is over.

Mon  - rest. Stiff neck, hard night. Dammit. Wanted to do a Litvinov.
Tue - rest. Neck getting better.
Wed - BM/system, crimp session. Strongstrongstrong. Very happy. Front lever pulls 6x3. Nice to be back into it after two days of compulsory rest.
Thu - climbing class. Some laddering up and down on the shittiest campusboard ever built. Tired.
Fri - board climbing. Power was on. Short recruitment, then matched PB on circuit despite not training PE for ages. Good going. Then Protocol4 x2 with snatch pulls, broad jumps, front lever pulls, mirror boxing. Phew.
Sat - no training but very physically demandind day, I helped in cooking a dinner for 350 people... Ended with lower back completely seized and horribly aching.
Sun - kettlebell swings, trap shrugs, clean and jerk. Brilliant.

Very strange week. Managed to pull it together despite everything. Very very happy about the system crimp. Big big gains. Also happy about power endurance, good goes on project circuit. Must work aerocap more often.

[filz]

STG: Train for peak at the end of april. Train slopers. Loose a couple of kg recently taken.
MTG: Consolidate 7a
LTG: 7c

Mon - Tried some fb, but stopped quickly. Too tired from the weekend.
Tue - Board climbing. Hard problems. Good session
Wed - fb max hangs in the morning.
Thu - ring dips, weights
Fri - I was in Rome for a conference. Nothing
Sat and Sun - bouldering. Saturday was too hot, but I had 2 good days. Skin on the second day did not hurt that much, so I hope it's getting back to good conditions for climbing.

[Nibile]

STG: Train for The Peak at the end of april.

FTFY.

[filz]

STG: Train for The Peak at the end of april.

FTFY.

I knew you wouldn't have liked the last part 

[fried]

S - Wolf's Pit. My first fell race. 9.2Km / 444M. Wanted to get close to 1hr and managed 1hr1min. Not seen the results yet but I didn't come last and felt like I gave it everything. Got passed on the flats, passed people on the hills. Brutal but a brilliant experience

Off to Font on Friday en famille, I'll be taking running shoes in case it's damp.

Sounds like you had a good first fell race Tom. Watch out for a growing obsession. :-)

I like the blue walking route around l'Elephant, Dame Jouanne and Manoury for a run. It's the only one I've tried in the forest but has a bit of everything (short stiff climbs, fast sweeping downhill, good views over the forest) and is about 10km if I remember correctly.

This is a good one too, I've never done it as a run, only as a walk (although plenty do). Classic tour of the 3 pignons climbing every hill in it, mostly on broken trails with some flatter sections between. You can always cut it shorter. 800m of climbing in 16km.

http://www.circuitdes25bosses.fr/carte_interactive.html

[T_B]

S - Wolf's Pit. My first fell race. 9.2Km / 444M. Wanted to get close to 1hr and managed 1hr1min. Not seen the results yet but I didn't come last and felt like I gave it everything. Got passed on the flats, passed people on the hills. Brutal but a brilliant experience

Off to Font on Friday en famille, I'll be taking running shoes in case it's damp.

Sounds like you had a good first fell race Tom. Watch out for a growing obsession. :-)

I like the blue walking route around l'Elephant, Dame Jouanne and Manoury for a run. It's the only one I've tried in the forest but has a bit of everything (short stiff climbs, fast sweeping downhill, good views over the forest) and is about 10km if I remember correctly.

This is a good one too, I've never done it as a run, only as a walk (although plenty do). Classic tour of the 3 pignons climbing every hill in it, mostly on broken trails with some flatter sections between. You can always cut it shorter. 800m of climbing in 16km.

http://www.circuitdes25bosses.fr/carte_interactive.html

Brilliant - thanks chaps.

[Sasquatch]

M-
T-Str Testing
W-
Th-Moonboard - fun session, and managed a sneak peak at the beta version of the app.  looks good, easy to use, and super fun hold setup
F- Backcountry Ski
S-
S-Aero testing

on the non-exercise/training/climbing note, one of my business partners (there are three of us) announced on Monday that she wanted out of the Business.  Now we have to figure out how to transition.  It's gonna be a shit show for the next few months...