[the_dom]

Mon: Trail run
Tues: AM Deadlifts, PM Bouldering and hangboard
Wed: Rest day
Thurs: AM Deadlifts, PM Bouldering and hangboard
Fri: Light deadlifts, kettlebell swings and Turkish Getups
Sat: Bouldering and hangboard
Sun: Rest day

Good week. Slowly getting there.

[Mike Tyson]

Feast or famine for me recently regards training.

STG Climb 7A in Font next month
MTG climb a 7B outside in the UK
LTG sail across the 7C's

M- Nothing,  very taxing day at work.
T- Durham wall session. Felt reasonable.
W-
T-
F-
S-
S- 5k run with Mrs, gentle walk up to Goldsborough Carr to check it out. Looks brilliant, and climbed two easy problems in my trainers.

Hoping for  a better week this week, but I'm all ready knackered after work and it's only Tuesday!

[shurt]

Stg: get out climbing while still fit
Mtg: get better stamina

Monday: last day in Siurana. It rained. There were dry routes apparently and I had to give it the whole  'your country needs you' routine to get others  interested. It wasn't too bad but after me and Conor got a rope and harnesses out the rain  got heavier.  A tapas lunch with beers by the beach saved the day.

Rest of the week: sweet FA.  Tired,  ill and an unsleeping child. Moan Moan.

[Muenchener]

There's a beach at Siurana? That certainly influences my planning for the autumn.

[Luke Owens]

Getting close on Left Wall now...

Did active rest as to not tax my arms and be rested for the cave last week. Also weighed 11.9 st the week previous, almost a stone heavier than I was a year ago, trying to lose a bit of weight.

M: Weight - 11.7 st

Lunch - 2mile run in 20mins

T: Weight - 11.6 st

Lunch - Stretching and Antags

10 minute cycle, 4km

Eve: Plas Power - Light session

10 min ARC trav warm-up
8 routes up to about 6b+

W: Lunch - Light 20 minute Cycle - 5.2km

T: Weight: 11.4 st

Cave - Left Wall - Got my high point from last session about 5 times and got past it once (to move 12) and fell off one move from the flake/rest!

F: Rest

S: Cave - Left Wall - Felt really good warming up but then struggled to stay warm for the whole session fingers numbing out. Had less "good" redpoints in me than usual.

Got to the new high point (12moves in) twice and powered out completely.

Figured out some better beta for that move then failed to get back there from the start...

S: Rest - Weight: 11.2st

[shurt]

There's a beach at Siurana? That certainly influences my planning for the autumn.

There's one on  the way back to the airport if you take the scenic route! It wasn't raining on the coast either which buoyed spirits further...

[webbo]

Mon. Turbo 5 mins 39 X 25 3 X 5 mins 39 X 21 1 mins easy between each set 5 mins 39 X 25 to finish.
Tue. Weights, then deadhanging 7 different grips 8 secs hangs with 16 lbs added. 5 sets of repeaters 5 secs on 5 secs x5 2 mins between each set 5 sets with 17 lbs added.
Physio assessment on Achilles healing well.
Wed. Same as Monday.
Thu. Same as Tuesday plus physio exercises.
Fri. Same as Monday.
Sat. Physio exs
Sun. Same as Tuesday.

[shark]

Also weighed 11.9 st the week previous, almost a stone heavier than I was a year ago, trying to lose a bit

Everyone is different but losing 5lbs in a week sounds quite aggressive

[Luke Owens]

Also weighed 11.9 st the week previous, almost a stone heavier than I was a year ago, trying to lose a bit

Everyone is different but losing 5lbs in a week sounds quite aggressive

I guess it is, I've switched to just eating healthy food little and often for the last 2 weeks and the weight just fell off, last night I was 11.1st

I don't feel ill, weak or anything so I'm not too worried.

My "normal" weight was around 10.9st for years prior.

[Falling Down]

2 weeks from me.

Previous week.

W - Bouldering the Westway with GME.  Feeling some snap come back.  Did a bunch of Blacks and one White. Good progress.

F - S - Great trip to Siurana with several UKB team members.  Climbed way better than El Chorro though 6b seems to be my limit at the moment so much still to do with my head and endurance - get pumped as soon as the footholds run out or it gets steep.  Felt like a climber again though and had a great time with the team.

Last week - Nowt.  Tired. Had a cold and busy getting my business off the ground.

Need to think about new goals.

[rodma]

Mon: wallington bear
Tue: stretchington bear
Wed: as monday
Thurs: as Tues
Fri: Rest
Sat: Bowden with mrs Rodma and the wee guy. bit epic. mrs rodma had to do a lot to keep him occupied.
Sun: rest

tough week, with both mrs rodma and the wee guy ill, so not a lot of sleep had. it was the wee guy's first time out bouldering with us in 6 or so months and it wasn't a complete write-off, but I've got a lot to learn i think.

[moose]

Also weighed 11.9 st the week previous, almost a stone heavier than I was a year ago, trying to lose a bit

Everyone is different but losing 5lbs in a week sounds quite aggressive

I guess it is, I've switched to just eating healthy food little and often for the last 2 weeks and the weight just fell off, last night I was 11.1st

I don't feel ill, weak or anything so I'm not too worried.

My "normal" weight was around 10.9st for years prior.

Doesn't sound too worrying (either that, or I should be very worried) - my weight frequently varies by 1.5 to 2kg day-to-day and weekly-average to weekly-average with no apparent rhyme or reason.

[csl]

Need to think about new goals.

Get out and redpoint something this spring/summer?

[SA Chris]

Bowden with mrs Rodma and the wee guy

How old now? I mean the wee guy, not ms Rodma.

[rodma]

17 months

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[SA Chris]

Tricky age for getting out with - mobile enough to be dangerous, but not yet stable enough on feet to be safe. Plus not quite up to speed on iPads yet

[Luke Owens]

It's amazing how much longer you can hold on for when your little one runs underneath you mid-crux armed with a big stick...!

[SA Chris]

Why would you be mid-crux armed with a stick?

[Coops_13]

Why would you be mid-crux armed with a stick?

midges?


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[tomtom]

Big week - mainly thanks to 4 days of amazing weather in the Lakes \o/

M: Drive to Lakes with MrsTT. Managed to persuade her to go for a little walk up Kentmere and I set to work on a couple of problems in Little Font whilst she read a book in the Sun.. Quick repeat of Negative Reality Inversion and a couple of other easy ones - then got stuck into Middle Earth. I've had quite a tussle with this in the past (its a 7A+ ish - its debatable - OK, if you really want to know more look here: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php?topic=24770.0 ) - and it still felt wrong the way I was trying to do it.. Sharp low crimp for LH, choice of two blunt flat sidepull pod things for RH - move up and once you get one of the higher crimps (shoulder height) then its all over... Anyway, much swearing and grunting to MrsTT's amusement and I stopped as I was about to split a tip on my LH

Tu: Morning pottering about - quick walk, visit an old house blah blah... MrsTT felt the need for an afternoon nap - so I scooted off to Kentmere again... Back to Middle Earth... felt more 'in tune' with the rock than on the previous day - and after much buggering about found that despite being tall the nearer sidepull/pod worked for me, and I could get knees and things tucked in behind my arm and reach up in balance for the next crimp. Nice foot step through for the next move and did it - superb - and in a good style too (well for me anyway).. Then went and celebrated by thrashing around unsucessfully on the sitter to NRI (its just a bit nasty I've decided) then went and worked on the 7A to the right of Tourniquet.. (Tourniquet looks great - and has large looking holds for an 8A... hmm...).

We: Off from Bowness to Eskdale... drive over Hardknott etc.. Nice quiet guesthouse - and I managed a quick hour or so at Eskdale Fishground. Two problems on the hitlist - Robs Wall (7C from sit, 7A+ from stand) and Strong Arete (7A+). They both felt hard. Really hard. So decided to play on the 7A on the RH corner of the Robs Wall block and got frustrated on that... Sun dipped and the rock cooled off - and thanks to having some mobile reception got some video Beta on Robs Wall. From the stand, the first move is just awkward, an off balance step on, then the left foot (on a good spike thing) keeps you just in balance with a lunge up to a crimpy edge (in coarse granite lumpy crimpy edge way..). This move took a long time to get right - quite percentagey for me, and I'm not used to doing dynamic latch - suck in body type moves. As the light fell, I had a couple of decent attempts and one final good rest. Pulled on, latched the crimp, managed to get my RH up, walked feet up to the right, snatched the higher hold, levered up and had a desperate throw for the final large jug (which I held)... fantastic, a superb problem and a real last gasp, nothing left, only just, as the sun was setting send... Beer and Steak and Ale pie down the road for dinner

Th: Great day walking in Wasdale - superb weather... such a lucky week.. Managed to factor in a 2 hour Fishground session late afternoon. This time I wanted Strong Arete.. Confident after the day before success, I found it bloody hard! The stand (V3) went fairly quickly (though its quite knacky) but the first two moves were just too much for me. Burly and I had no burl left.. I could see all the numbers - the sequence made sense, I just needed (to be able) to pull harder. Returned last thing to the 7A arete right of Robs Wall that I was trying and having figured out the first move came desparately close before having to give up...

Fr: Potter and travel home

Sa: Blackstone edge with Andy Popp. Knackered and thin skin - so coarse moorland grit is the answer!! Andy was carrying an injury, that he unfortunately aggravated early on, so it was a fairly quick session - ticked some nice 6B-6C's on the far RH end - and got Swingers 7A dispatched at the end...

Su: Manc Depot in the evening for a 60-90 min session... wasnt climbing very well (too used to rock not plastic!) - though felt knackered afterwards.. managed a couple of reds, and managed not to injure myself this time

[rodma]

Tricky age for getting out with - mobile enough to be dangerous, but not yet stable enough on feet to be safe. Plus not quite up to speed on iPads yet

Quite :D

He was in a down suit, so was really toasty, but wouldn't let go of my fingers so he could walk around. Made my hands like ice.

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[SA Chris]

Climbing with a child hanging off your fingers can be a bit tricky.

[Muenchener]

Potentially a useful bit of climbing kit later though. Mine is twelve and I've started training him up as a belay bunny / rope gun.

[petejh]

A quite mental week so late post.

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Bouldering phase.

M. Quick tired hour at Tremerchion on way home from work/airport. Getting the sloper on 36 Chambers.
T. Beacon. Decent, lots of purples - '6C-7B'.. quite the grade range.
W. Core & mobility sesh
T.
F.
S. Cave. 2nd sesh on Rockatrocity, geting to last moves just need to practice them (!). Ground up on anything in the cave?, bellend..
S. TRX sesh.

[Sasquatch]

M-
T-Str Testing
W-
Th-Moonboard - fun session, and managed a sneak peak at the beta version of the app.  looks good, easy to use, and super fun hold setup
F- Backcountry Ski
S-
S-Aero testing

on the non-exercise/training/climbing note, one of my business partners (there are three of us) announced on Monday that she wanted out of the Business.  Now we have to figure out how to transition.  It's gonna be a shit show for the next few months...

I did my Randall test last week and just got my report back.  I averaged 95% on my strength test(the one discussed here:Powerclub discussion of finger strength testing), which is about apparently 8% less than the average for my actual grade    I am officially a weakling   I scored "weak" on virtually every single metric he scores except for "finger strength for a route climber at my grade.  In the red, or on the red/yellow cusp for every single thing, plus I have "weak" pull strength, core endurance and poor shoulder flexibility. 

Made me crack up laughing.  I think the tests were all correct.  Just proving something I've known for a long time that no one has agreed with me about.  I'm "weak" for my performance level, and mostly that I'm total crap without feet of some sort.  Well, back around to the training...