[r2d2]

When I do the Reverse Im only going to start working on heading back again with a view to working this mythical aeropower

Much better training, in my opinion, would be to go to somewhere like Rubicon or Anston, smash out a couple of hours of powerful and fingery limestone bouldering, then go inside and do some aero pow training on the way home. I don't think that trying eatswood there and back is a particularly good way to train aeropow. Or anything other than traversing at eatswood for a man who's already been there quite a bit. Just my opinion.

Wise words 

[shark]

When I do the Reverse Im only going to start working on heading back again with a view to working this mythical aeropower

Much better training, in my opinion, would be to go to somewhere like Rubicon or Anston, smash out a couple of hours of powerful and fingery limestone bouldering, then go inside and do some aero pow training on the way home. I don't think that trying eatswood there and back is a particularly good way to train aeropow. Or anything other than traversing at eatswood for a man who's already been there quite a bit. Just my opinion.

Yes you are right. Once I've ticked the Reverse I'll head East. Promise

[36chambers]

STG: ?
MTG: Yorkshire Classics
LTG: 8B

M: Almscliff, third day on. Met a local wad who showed me their beta for Exorcist (long) 8A. Saving me two hand moves and a heel bump. Dropped the last move on the link.
T:
W: Poor An Cap session indoors. Too busy, couldn't find good problems to use. Still tired from the 3 day stint.
T:
F:
S: Caley. Poor summery conditions. Now done all the moves on Zoo York 8A (sans top, need more pads) and made some minor links. Toe hooks feel easy when they work, but I'm very inconsistent. Flapper stopped play. 
S: Woodhouse Scar. First time visiting. Lots of good 6's. Dropped the last move of Angel Face Eliminate 7B+ and fell off on the arete on the flash attempt of Ian's Roof 7C. Vowed to return to both at the end of the day, but didn't. Managed The Sheriff and The Deputy, which were both surprisingly good. 

Nice to meet you too TTT  . The Artist Formally Known As Nathanie1 (1 = "L" btw ) was too long so I naturally settled for 36chambers

[fried]

Nice one Muenchener.

Folks arrived last week, so just managed an OK session on Tuesday. Walked a lot all week and had a lovely tour around Cuvier which I used as a sneaky recon mission for a look at the la reconnaisance sector. Looks nice and quiet, hopefully the weather'll stay perfect and I can get a decent session in at the weekend. This looks good https://bleau.info/reconnaissance/15734.html

[nai]

Weight 56.9 this morning having been lower mid week, seems to follow a pattern hitting a low Tue-Thu then it starts creeping back up. Not really snacking, I suspect traditional carb-protein family meals are the culprit.

M - AM - Garage bouldering, attempts at 3 new problems to warm up, then to Curbar to try De-extended Reverse Gorilla Doors, this is a long problem I've tried twice before a few years back as a test of endurance after a training block. I thought I was close previously but I managed it today and found there's a world of difference between getting close to the finish and actually doing it, so maybe that's an improvement.

PM - HI AeroCap
Core evening

T - AeroPow foot on campussing - great first set, new PB. Faded quickly set 2.

w rest

Th  - AM Boresome Walls -  AeroPow. Eve core

F - board bouldering - managed the three new problems I've been working for a few weeks within 15 minutes of one another then went to the Works for 3x10 mins LI AeroCap with core in rest periods and still left without buying flapjack.

S rest

S fingerboard & weighted pullups. Managed a 10s BW hang unassisted but not staying front-on and +1kg using added weight and a pulley. PB.

And just for completion:

M - Rubicon - good start doing Miller's Tail first go and three times in a row. Then tried Kudos, Press and Bigger Tail, felt reasonably strong but a couple taped tips weren't helping contact (and the sun was out). Decided skin preservation was the order of the day and left after an hour.

PM - AeroPow foot on campusing, Better second set today, PB again

Eve - core

So that's this week's program completed already, nothing in schedule now until WC 28/03. Had a few successes recently and recorded some PBs so hopeful that will translate to routes.

Time.

To.

Climb.

[Mike Tyson]

Can I join in? I did try and get I to power club a few years back, but failed, as I was a failure. I'm a lot more motivated these days!

STG- 7A in Font
MTG- lose weight and remain injured, 7B outside.
LTG- 7C outside.

(Sunday- managed a 5km run with my lady)

M- Hour and half at the gym doing a mixture of cardio and machine work. Feeling good about going to the gym after always being somewhat disheartened.
T- 2 hours at Durham wall, spent a good bit of time on the woody, making progress on projects.
W- Back at the gym for another mixed session. Again, feeling good.
T- Durham wall session, again on the woody buy also did a few other up type problems which I had failed on previously.
F- nowt, drove back to Lakes to see kids and family.
S- spent day pottering about with kids doing family stuff..
S- Few hours at Eden Rock, felt strong and in reasonable shape.

All in all a good week.

[csl]

STG
Be able to climb in Siurana - Done. Top weekend, finger didnt cause any issues.

MTG - june
Go to Ceuse fit and strong, climb privilege.

LTG - end of year
8a

Mon

Building One - hard boulders inc one of the V6-8 circuit.

Thursday - Monday

Siurana with various other forum members. Great weekend! Finger caused no issues and i managed some nice routes up to 7a. Reasonably happy with fitness levels and now time to up the volume of training. 11 weeks to Ceuse.

[Footwork]

Good work Conor 

I really can't remember much of what I did this week, apart from:

Mon: Bunked off and went to the Lakes winter climbing. Gorgeous day and did some great routes! I think thats the end of my winter season as exam season looms again (plus everything is melting fast) so will do a write up soon.

Did a fair amount of stretching this week and therabanding.

Sweets bought: zero. Think I've got over the short haribo addiction now.

[Luke Owens]

As I'm getting a lot closer on Left Wall I'm going to stay rested this coming week and watch what I eat...

M: Lunch - Max Hangs
Progressive Set:
10sec (0kg), 10sec (2.5kg), 10sec (5kg)
Main Set (all 10kg added):
8sec, 10sec, 10sec

T: Lunch: 50 Crunches
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
5 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
3 x 10 Dorsal Raises
5 x 5sec L-Hangs
5 Leg raises (Feet to bar)
10 Knee tucks
30 Side Crunches (15 each side)

Eve: Plas Power - 20min ARC trav warm-up

20' Board - Repeated 7A and 2 x 7A+. Messed about with a replica of the 7c I want to do at Dinbren. Managed a few good links on it.

45' Board - Repeated 7A first go, felt really strong on it. Came up with and tried a new project, really tensiony on screw-on's. Few good links on the top moves.

W: Lunch - Lots of stretching

T: Cave - Trying Left Wall again, got to a new high point 3 times in a row. Falling on the cross through move off the sloper, managed to hold the cross through on my 3rd best go but couldn't un-wind.

This is 9 moves in, previous session I was getting 7 moves in. 3 more mores to the rest!

F: Rest

S: Rest

S: Dinbren - First day out on a rope in about 5 months. Warmed up on 6b, then did a sandbag 6c in about 5 goes...! Struggled to get a belay at the crag after mate left, ended up waiting up to an hour between goes.

Put clips in on "Flowers are for the Dead" (7c). 11th time on this in 2 years, moves felt a lot easier than they used to in isolation apart from the first big move off an undercut which I replicated completely wrong at the wall.

Rushed go from the deck fell off undercut move at the start. Then the same again and ran out of time. Didn't even get chance to do any links or anything...forgot how much faff is involved in sport climbing, bouldering lately has felt far more enjoyable and easier. Felt like I'd barely done anything despite being at the crag for 6 hours, feeling put off by it but I didn't even get chance to get going really...

[Wood FT]

mon - works, worked around through yellow 7b circuit a few times in halfs and drop-off/step back ons. Did a dozen or so new fluro yellow problems after.
tue - foundry, 6 level 2s on the minute, as I was wondering what all the fuss was about, then routes. Tweaked my knee on 3rd route so stopped early. GF did a 6b, chuffed.
wed - awesome walls, 8 routes, 6b - 6c+, pumped!
thu -
fri -bought some blue trousers, well good.
sat -
sun -

  Siurana on saturday, not climbed on rock since 13/02/2016 so I'm really excited to just climb let alone tick anything, with the addition of blue trousers I feel unstoppable.

[cheque]

with the addition of blue trousers I feel unstoppable.

  When I was in the states my mate won a pair of electric blue La Sportiva "Euro pants"  as a comp prize. They immediately became a kind of polycotton lucky charm.

[Wood FT]

with the inclusion of an orange harness I'm hoping to be knocking out an 8a, with a power scream maybe add a +, only time will tell

[Coops_13]

New bright trousers definitely add a + grade at least, from personal experience


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Nibile]

STG - board projects, NEW PROJECT ON ROCK

This is what you're going to read about for quite a while in the future... The original plan didn't involve the higher RH slopey edge, I wanted to stick to the low holds only. Blimey! 

[shark]

NEW PROJECT ON ROCK

This is what you're going to read about for quite a while in the future...
[/quote]

Looks ace

[Nibile]

It is indeed. It's always been there, hidden amongst the brambles.
Ages ago a couple of friends (lanky bastards) tried to come straight out of the roof, from an undercling at its bottom to some edges. It needed the vision of my friends to spot some of them holds!
Now I am facing the usual dilemma: to use the higher hold, or not to use it?
With it it's hard. Without it's mental.

[filz]

This week I had to take care of some shoulder and wrists pain so I did a lot of stretching and theraband

Mon: theraband exercises for shoulders and wrist stretching
Tue: board climbing power endurance
Wed: nothing
Thu: theraband and stretching in the morning, fb repeaters in the evening
Fri: more stretching
Sat: rope climbing on easy routes up to 6a
Sun: bouldering with nibs and other friends. Cold nice day.

Lore do both lines... L'infinito potenziale etc... 

[Nibile]

1%. Maybe less.

[rodma]

m: campussy wallage: reasonably ok
t: rest with stretching
w: campussy wallage: actually managed to hit the 8th rung (medium rungs) on 1-4-7, which is a first for me
t: rest with stretching
f: rest
s: went to kyloe, but was wet. walked out with a view to driving home,but mates were about to check out bowden which was surprisingly dry. warmed up a bit, went back to working class and worked it with the others. young William's recent success on it by throwing has inspired me to go back to this method. hit the hold reasonably well a few times, but am not good/fast/strong (delete where applicable) enough



I love failing on that problem, which is lucky.
s: rest

a good week, with a nice day on rock. shoulder improving all the time. I'm not going to weigh myself until i look leaner. it's pointless otherwise.


Re: Nibs: a short (5ft) Olly bar weighs 10kg and is rated to about 260kg (that's what i have at home). those york spinlock bars weigh 6kg and are only rated to 120ishkg.

[petejh]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Bouldering phase.

M. ?
T. Tremerchion. Did Iron Flag, first sesh on 36 Chambers. Decent.. getting to sloper.
W. Core & mobility sesh
T. Flew to Belfast. Watched Liverpool crush. Bit of a cold.
F. Manflu
S. SuperManflu
S. Mournes, easy routes at Pigeon Rock then playing around on the slabby playground of Hen Mountain. Ace

[Sasquatch]

1%. Maybe less.

So you're telling me there's a chance...

[Sasquatch]

M - Climbed outside for the first day of the season. Did a v4 established last year as a bit of warmup, then 2 new FA's.  Left 2 more FA's out there, one of which will be HARD and good. 

The lip of the first FA.  The second one starts on the right side of the image. 
T - rest
W - Backcountry Ski - Long day
T - Backcountry Ski - Shorter day, and a 45 min recon hike/run
F - Backcountry ski - worthless and legs were jelly, then boulder in evening.  Poor session as I was worked, but felt good to do a bunch of stuff. 
S - Nothing/work/date night
S - Nothing/work

Tough week for climbing, and need to get a better handle on motivation/diet/schedule/stress. 

I think my mind/body are telling me I just need to have fun climbing for a while and not "train" per se.  I'm strong, but my performance climbing is all over the place. I need to climb more to get back into better movement patterns. 

[Doylo]

STG: first 8b+ (Mecca), by mid June
MTG: undecided
LTG: 8c, by June 2018

Bouldering phase.

M. ?
T. Tremerchion. Did Iron Flag, first sesh on 36 Chambers. Decent.. getting to sloper.
W. Core & mobility sesh
T. Flew to Belfast. Watched Liverpool crush. Bit of a cold.
F. Manflu
S. SuperManflu
S. Mournes, easy routes at Pigeon Rock then playing around on the slabby playground of Hen Mountain. Ace

You should be on 8c+ in 2018. Or you gonna start doing more than one of each grade 

[a dense loner]

Has Pete not checked out jens grade pyramid?

[petejh]

Pyramids are for losers. Or the young